Dr.Tom Roess on fri 31 mar 00
------------------
Hi everyone.
I was one of the lucky ones to get a copy of Jack Troy's hand-out on making
your own deer tail brushes at the Tool Doctor seminar at NCECA. Since there
were many disappointed people, I thought I would post it for those who =
missed
out. I hope Jack doesn't mind.
Regards, Lou in Snowmass
DEER TAIL BRUSHES by Jack Troy
Ceramics Monthly January 1973
Styles of brushes available to potters are very limited, so five =
years
ago I began experimenting with different types of hairs and handles using
available materials. The objective was to make a brush which would hold and
dispense a large amount of slip or other underglaze medium. The first brush=
I
made is still in use today and the simple technique for making these brushes
is one that other potters may find useful.
The hair of a deer tail turned out to be the best material. Strong,
resilient, and long, the hair is hollow, and brushes made from it are
expressive and useful. Deer hunters are a good source for these tails, =
though
they can be purchased at sporting goods stores that sell fly-tying =
materials.
Other items needed are a razor blade, nylon monofilament spinning line, =
strong
cord, and epoxy glue. For a handle, a section of bamboo works well or an
empty shotgun shell, although interesting ones could be made from glazed and
fired clay.
Slit the white under-side of the tail lengthwise with a razor blade
and remove the bone. Though one might simply grasp a tuft of hair and cut =
it
off close to the skin, the process is easier if the skin can be laid out =
flat
(these skins will keep indefinitely if well salted). Holding the outer ends =
of
the hair, wind the monofilament line tightly around the opposite end so that
the hairs become stiffened and flare out in a tuft. Continue winding until
about one and one half inches of the hair have been covered.
Epoxy glue (mixed from two separate tubes) is applied to the =
=22butt=22
end of the brush-head, taking care to thoroughly saturate the butt while
keeping the flexible end clean and moisture free. At this point the
brush-head can be hung up by a clothespin to dry. The drying process can be
accelerated by holding the brush-head under a heat lamp or placing it in a
warm kiln. The glue has dried when it cannot be dented with the thumbnail,
and then is ready to install as a plug in the handle . A plastic shotgun
shell is an ideal, indestructible object to use, and a variety of sizes is
available. Furniture stores will sometimes give you bamboo poles which they
have left over from carpet rolls. If bamboo is used, the partition at one =
end
of a four- to six-inch length should be drilled or cut away=3B the other
partition is retained to keep the interior dry and clean.
Select a handle which snugly fits the glued end of the brush-head,
wind the heavy cord around it, and coat it with glue to assure a tight fit.
Apply epoxy to the interior of the handle and to the butt of the brush-head,
and allow them to become tacky. Work the brush-head into the handle, let =
dry
thoroughly , and the brush is completed and ready for use.
The finished brushes are flexible, durable, and easily cleaned. =
When
loaded with slip they fall naturally to a point and are ideal for uniformly
coating a piece while it turns on the wheel, or for painting and splashing
textured patterns on wet, green or bisqued ware. Called dame-fude by the
Japanese, these brushes are effective and practical.
For the expenditure of only a few cents and a little time, a
serviceable and valuable brush can be made. Such a simple addition to one's
tools often provides an opportunity to discover new decorating =
possibilities.
Badlands Pottery on sat 1 apr 00
Another source of various skins or furs is a taxidermist. They often have
scraps that they are willing to give away. I recently made a brush out of
black bear fur, but used dental floss istead of nonfilament line. If you
leave the floss or line long enough on one end, you can feed it through the
bamboo or cane handle and use it to pull the brush head into position. I
know somebody that has even made a brush using some of the fur from their
German Shepherd---he says it's the best brush he's ever used. Lori
>From: "Dr.Tom Roess"
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Jack Troy's Brush demo
>Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:23:16 EST
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>Hi everyone.
> I was one of the lucky ones to get a copy of Jack Troy's hand-out on
>making
>your own deer tail brushes at the Tool Doctor seminar at NCECA. Since
>there
>were many disappointed people, I thought I would post it for those who
>missed
>out. I hope Jack doesn't mind.
>Regards, Lou in Snowmass
>
>DEER TAIL BRUSHES by Jack Troy
>Ceramics Monthly January 1973
>
> Styles of brushes available to potters are very limited, so five
>years
>ago I began experimenting with different types of hairs and handles using
>available materials. The objective was to make a brush which would hold
>and
>dispense a large amount of slip or other underglaze medium. The first
>brush I
>made is still in use today and the simple technique for making these
>brushes
>is one that other potters may find useful.
> The hair of a deer tail turned out to be the best material.
>Strong,
>resilient, and long, the hair is hollow, and brushes made from it are
>expressive and useful. Deer hunters are a good source for these tails,
>though
>they can be purchased at sporting goods stores that sell fly-tying
>materials.
>Other items needed are a razor blade, nylon monofilament spinning line,
>strong
>cord, and epoxy glue. For a handle, a section of bamboo works well or an
>empty shotgun shell, although interesting ones could be made from glazed
>and
>fired clay.
> Slit the white under-side of the tail lengthwise with a razor
>blade
>and remove the bone. Though one might simply grasp a tuft of hair and cut
>it
>off close to the skin, the process is easier if the skin can be laid out
>flat
>(these skins will keep indefinitely if well salted). Holding the outer ends
>of
>the hair, wind the monofilament line tightly around the opposite end so
>that
>the hairs become stiffened and flare out in a tuft. Continue winding until
>about one and one half inches of the hair have been covered.
> Epoxy glue (mixed from two separate tubes) is applied to the
>"butt"
>end of the brush-head, taking care to thoroughly saturate the butt while
>keeping the flexible end clean and moisture free. At this point the
>brush-head can be hung up by a clothespin to dry. The drying process can
>be
>accelerated by holding the brush-head under a heat lamp or placing it in a
>warm kiln. The glue has dried when it cannot be dented with the thumbnail,
>and then is ready to install as a plug in the handle . A plastic shotgun
>shell is an ideal, indestructible object to use, and a variety of sizes is
>available. Furniture stores will sometimes give you bamboo poles which
>they
>have left over from carpet rolls. If bamboo is used, the partition at one
>end
>of a four- to six-inch length should be drilled or cut away; the other
>partition is retained to keep the interior dry and clean.
> Select a handle which snugly fits the glued end of the brush-head,
>wind the heavy cord around it, and coat it with glue to assure a tight fit.
>Apply epoxy to the interior of the handle and to the butt of the
>brush-head,
>and allow them to become tacky. Work the brush-head into the handle, let
>dry
>thoroughly , and the brush is completed and ready for use.
> The finished brushes are flexible, durable, and easily cleaned.
>When
>loaded with slip they fall naturally to a point and are ideal for uniformly
>coating a piece while it turns on the wheel, or for painting and splashing
>textured patterns on wet, green or bisqued ware. Called dame-fude by the
>Japanese, these brushes are effective and practical.
> For the expenditure of only a few cents and a little time, a
>serviceable and valuable brush can be made. Such a simple addition to
>one's
>tools often provides an opportunity to discover new decorating
>possibilities.
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Veronica Honthaas on sat 1 apr 00
Thanks for the brush making info.
Trying to make my own brushes will certainly be on my list of fun projects
I want to try. My rusty brain keeps thinking that somewhere in the last
five years was an article about making brushes and using the underbelly
(rather than tail) hair for some reason. Can anyone out there recall that
article.
Also: My neighbors save their deer and elk hides for me for my drum
making. So I might be able to get some tails for some of you city folks.
Keep my number and contact me in the fall.
Cindy Strnad on sun 2 apr 00
Veronica,
Tail hair is coarser than underbelly hair, so I suppose it would depend upon
the kind of brushes one wants to make.
Cindy Strnad
earthenv@gwtc.net
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
Pamala Browne on mon 3 apr 00
I have yet to get to the original post on this ,but Trout fishing
outfitters and magazines have various animal hair and filaments for tying
flies ( some could be great for brushes ,too ! ) for some people getting to
an outfitter might be more convenient than finding a taxidermist shop --
although maybe not less gross -- ever seen one of those flattened rabbit
heads for "hare's fur " ?? pamalab
----- Original Message -----
From: Badlands Pottery
To:
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: Jack Troy's Brush demo
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Another source of various skins or furs is a taxidermist. They often have
> scraps that they are willing to give away. I recently made a brush out of
> black bear fur, but used dental floss istead of nonfilament line. If you
> leave the floss or line long enough on one end, you can feed it through
the
> bamboo or cane handle and use it to pull the brush head into position. I
> know somebody that has even made a brush using some of the fur from their
> German Shepherd---he says it's the best brush he's ever used. Lori
>
> >From: "Dr.Tom Roess"
> >Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> >To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> >Subject: Jack Troy's Brush demo
> >Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:23:16 EST
> >
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >------------------
> >Hi everyone.
> > I was one of the lucky ones to get a copy of Jack Troy's hand-out on
> >making
> >your own deer tail brushes at the Tool Doctor seminar at NCECA. Since
> >there
> >were many disappointed people, I thought I would post it for those who
> >missed
> >out. I hope Jack doesn't mind.
> >Regards, Lou in Snowmass
> >
> >DEER TAIL BRUSHES by Jack Troy
> >Ceramics Monthly January 1973
> >
> > Styles of brushes available to potters are very limited, so five
> >years
> >ago I began experimenting with different types of hairs and handles using
> >available materials. The objective was to make a brush which would hold
> >and
> >dispense a large amount of slip or other underglaze medium. The first
> >brush I
> >made is still in use today and the simple technique for making these
> >brushes
> >is one that other potters may find useful.
> > The hair of a deer tail turned out to be the best material.
> >Strong,
> >resilient, and long, the hair is hollow, and brushes made from it are
> >expressive and useful. Deer hunters are a good source for these tails,
> >though
> >they can be purchased at sporting goods stores that sell fly-tying
> >materials.
> >Other items needed are a razor blade, nylon monofilament spinning line,
> >strong
> >cord, and epoxy glue. For a handle, a section of bamboo works well or an
> >empty shotgun shell, although interesting ones could be made from glazed
> >and
> >fired clay.
> > Slit the white under-side of the tail lengthwise with a razor
> >blade
> >and remove the bone. Though one might simply grasp a tuft of hair and
cut
> >it
> >off close to the skin, the process is easier if the skin can be laid out
> >flat
> >(these skins will keep indefinitely if well salted). Holding the outer
ends
> >of
> >the hair, wind the monofilament line tightly around the opposite end so
> >that
> >the hairs become stiffened and flare out in a tuft. Continue winding
until
> >about one and one half inches of the hair have been covered.
> > Epoxy glue (mixed from two separate tubes) is applied to the
> >"butt"
> >end of the brush-head, taking care to thoroughly saturate the butt while
> >keeping the flexible end clean and moisture free. At this point the
> >brush-head can be hung up by a clothespin to dry. The drying process can
> >be
> >accelerated by holding the brush-head under a heat lamp or placing it in
a
> >warm kiln. The glue has dried when it cannot be dented with the
thumbnail,
> >and then is ready to install as a plug in the handle . A plastic shotgun
> >shell is an ideal, indestructible object to use, and a variety of sizes
is
> >available. Furniture stores will sometimes give you bamboo poles which
> >they
> >have left over from carpet rolls. If bamboo is used, the partition at
one
> >end
> >of a four- to six-inch length should be drilled or cut away; the other
> >partition is retained to keep the interior dry and clean.
> > Select a handle which snugly fits the glued end of the
brush-head,
> >wind the heavy cord around it, and coat it with glue to assure a tight
fit.
> >Apply epoxy to the interior of the handle and to the butt of the
> >brush-head,
> >and allow them to become tacky. Work the brush-head into the handle, let
> >dry
> >thoroughly , and the brush is completed and ready for use.
> > The finished brushes are flexible, durable, and easily cleaned.
> >When
> >loaded with slip they fall naturally to a point and are ideal for
uniformly
> >coating a piece while it turns on the wheel, or for painting and
splashing
> >textured patterns on wet, green or bisqued ware. Called dame-fude by the
> >Japanese, these brushes are effective and practical.
> > For the expenditure of only a few cents and a little time, a
> >serviceable and valuable brush can be made. Such a simple addition to
> >one's
> >tools often provides an opportunity to discover new decorating
> >possibilities.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
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