Lesley Alexander on fri 31 mar 00
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your comments on the Shino break-out session. Maybe there are
1001 ways to fire Shinos or I put it down wrong, but I got some slightly
different impressions on firingfrom Malcolm Davis' pre-NCECA workshop at
Laguna. In light of that (no pun intended) I'm about to try a predominantly
shino glaze-firing, and plan to start reduction at ^012 to ^010, reduce
smokily for about an hour, letting the kiln stall if need be, closing down
the primary air intake and going on the secondary. (I have an updraft kiln
so the kiln shelf vent cover will be slid close in too) After that hour,
continue a heat rise of about 150 an hour in mild reduction until ^9-10,
not more. At that point I'll let it go into oxidation and crash cool it to
^04, when I'll close up tight and wait 'patiently' until it's
hand-unloadable.
Will it work? I'll post in in a couple of weeks! Of course if it doesn't,
that may not mean the PLAN was off.... Just got an oxyprobe so maybe that
will help me keep track.
Incidentally, I'm remembering Hank Murrow's advice that refiring a
reluctant shino to cone 5 or so in oxidation may pick it up. I refired some
with a bisque firing (^-08-07) and did get some color deepening, so that
sounds promising.
Thanks for the rest of your account, it included some items new to me...
Best wishes, Lesley
Dave Finkelnburg on sat 1 apr 00
Lesley,
I'm absolutely no Shino expert. I just reported what I heard said.
Wish I had been able to go to the workshop you attended. The brief
breakout was not nearly enough. Good luck with your firing!
Dave Finkelnburg
-----Original Message-----
From: Lesley Alexander
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 3:39 PM
Subject: Shino Session notes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your comments on the Shino break-out session.
Maybe there are
1001 ways to fire Shinos or I put it down wrong, but I got some slightly
different impressions on firingfrom Malcolm Davis' pre-NCECA workshop at
Laguna. In light of that (no pun intended) I'm about to try a predominantly
shino glaze-firing, and plan to start reduction at ^012 to ^010, reduce
smokily for about an hour, letting the kiln stall if need be, closing down
the primary air intake and going on the secondary. (I have an updraft kiln
so the kiln shelf vent cover will be slid close in too) After that hour,
continue a heat rise of about 150 an hour in mild reduction until ^9-10,
not more. At that point I'll let it go into oxidation and crash cool it to
^04, when I'll close up tight and wait 'patiently' until it's
hand-unloadable.
Will it work? I'll post in in a couple of weeks! Of course if it
doesn't,
that may not mean the PLAN was off.... Just got an oxyprobe so maybe that
will help me keep track.
Incidentally, I'm remembering Hank Murrow's advice that refiring a
reluctant shino to cone 5 or so in oxidation may pick it up. I refired some
with a bisque firing (^-08-07) and did get some color deepening, so that
sounds promising.
Thanks for the rest of your account, it included some items new to
me...
Best wishes, Lesley
Susan Kosko on sat 1 apr 00
Hi all -
It was very interesting to read both Lesley's and Dave's notes on shino. I atte
Malcolm's workshop in Florida a couple of weeks before NCECA, and I have the sam
information as Lesley. We actually did a firing, and that was the way we fired.
good firing there, and I learned techniques I'm going to put into practice at ho
One other thing in Dave's notes (which were great ) that differed from something
said. Dave said, "There was a comment that high iron clay bodies yield more shi
results." Malcolm doesn't like shino on stoneware, although he did say that dif
recipes might be better on stoneware than his favorite. My limited experience w
Oestreich recipe I got from Clayart is that there's not as much apparent carbon
stoneware - I like that recipe better on porcelain. And at the firing in Florid
stoneware pieces I brought were ugly - dry, almost brick red, no carbon trapping
I can't wait to experiment!
Susan Kosko
New Durham, NH
Lesley Alexander wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Dave,
> Thanks for your comments on the Shino break-out session. Maybe
> 1001 ways to fire Shinos or I put it down wrong, but I got some slightly
> different impressions on firingfrom Malcolm Davis' pre-NCECA workshop at
> Laguna. In light of that (no pun intended) I'm about to try a predominantly
> shino glaze-firing, and plan to start reduction at ^012 to ^010, reduce
> smokily for about an hour, letting the kiln stall if need be, closing down
> the primary air intake and going on the secondary. (I have an updraft kiln
> so the kiln shelf vent cover will be slid close in too) After that hour,
> continue a heat rise of about 150 an hour in mild reduction until ^9-10,
> not more. At that point I'll let it go into oxidation and crash cool it to
> ^04, when I'll close up tight and wait 'patiently' until it's
> hand-unloadable.
> Will it work? I'll post in in a couple of weeks! Of course if it doesn
> that may not mean the PLAN was off.... Just got an oxyprobe so maybe that
> will help me keep track.
> Incidentally, I'm remembering Hank Murrow's advice that refiring a
> reluctant shino to cone 5 or so in oxidation may pick it up. I refired some
> with a bisque firing (^-08-07) and did get some color deepening, so that
> sounds promising.
> Thanks for the rest of your account, it included some items new to me.
> Best wishes, Lesley
Hank Murrow on sun 2 apr 00
> Hi Dave,
> SNIP____
> Incidentally, I'm remembering Hank Murrow's advice that refiring a
>reluctant shino to cone 5 or so in oxidation may pick it up. I refired some
>with a bisque firing (^-08-07) and did get some color deepening, so that
>sounds promising.
>
>Best wishes, Lesley
Dear Lesley; Actually, Hank was suggesting that one cool normally to C/1+
and then fire the kiln about 1/3 power (steady holding fire) in OXidation
for 2-6 hours, then cooling normally again. This is more effective in
deepening the color than refiring; but refiring sometimes works if the
reduction was there to begin with. Remember that the Shino potters of four
hundred years ago were firing for 10 days and cooling for the same time.
takes time for the hematite to form on the surface. That's why we use
Lithium and soda to 'speed' things up. Shinos are white under the
firecolor, right down to the clay interface. BTW, the firecolor on typical
Shinos is VERY thin, perhaps 20-50 Microns in thickness, or one fiftieth of
the glaze thickness. Restaurant use will wear off the firecolor as the
plates slide across one another as they're stacked and restacked. Hope this
is useful, Hank Murrow
Dave Finkelnburg on sun 2 apr 00
Susan,
I don't know why this happens, but sometimes the right hand end of most
lines in a post is cut off, at least in the version which I received. That
happened with your post below.
Would you be kind enough to repost the message? I feel like I've been
missed something. Thanks!
Dave Finkelnburg
-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Kosko
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Shino Session notes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi all -
>
>It was very interesting to read both Lesley's and Dave's notes on shino. I
atte
>Malcolm's workshop in Florida a couple of weeks before NCECA, and I have
the sam
>information as Lesley. We actually did a firing, and that was the way we
fired.
>good firing there, and I learned techniques I'm going to put into practice
at ho
>
>One other thing in Dave's notes (which were great ) that differed from
something
>said. Dave said, "There was a comment that high iron clay bodies yield
more shi
>results." Malcolm doesn't like shino on stoneware, although he did say
that dif
>recipes might be better on stoneware than his favorite. My limited
experience w
>Oestreich recipe I got from Clayart is that there's not as much apparent
carbon
>stoneware - I like that recipe better on porcelain. And at the firing in
Florid
>stoneware pieces I brought were ugly - dry, almost brick red, no carbon
trapping
>
>I can't wait to experiment!
>
>Susan Kosko
>New Durham, NH
>
>Lesley Alexander wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Hi Dave,
>> Thanks for your comments on the Shino break-out session.
Maybe
>> 1001 ways to fire Shinos or I put it down wrong, but I got some slightly
>> different impressions on firingfrom Malcolm Davis' pre-NCECA workshop at
>> Laguna. In light of that (no pun intended) I'm about to try a
predominantly
>> shino glaze-firing, and plan to start reduction at ^012 to ^010, reduce
>> smokily for about an hour, letting the kiln stall if need be, closing
down
>> the primary air intake and going on the secondary. (I have an updraft
kiln
>> so the kiln shelf vent cover will be slid close in too) After that hour,
>> continue a heat rise of about 150 an hour in mild reduction until ^9-10,
>> not more. At that point I'll let it go into oxidation and crash cool it
to
>> ^04, when I'll close up tight and wait 'patiently' until it's
>> hand-unloadable.
>> Will it work? I'll post in in a couple of weeks! Of course if it
doesn
>> that may not mean the PLAN was off.... Just got an oxyprobe so maybe
that
>> will help me keep track.
>> Incidentally, I'm remembering Hank Murrow's advice that refiring
a
>> reluctant shino to cone 5 or so in oxidation may pick it up. I refired
some
>> with a bisque firing (^-08-07) and did get some color deepening, so that
>> sounds promising.
>> Thanks for the rest of your account, it included some items new
to me.
>> Best wishes, Lesley
>
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