Veena Raghavan on wed 5 apr 00
I just wanted to put in my two cents worth about wedging surfaces. I agree
with Ivor Lewis and Richard Gilbert about a wood as opposed to a plaster
surface. I work out of a group studio, where we use plaster wedging tables.
There is a constant problem with chips of plaster getting into the clay.
Everyone is not careful about how they use the surface, and it is difficult
to control in a teaching studio. I hope to have my own studio in the near
future, and plan to have either a wood wedging table, because I feel it is
easier to clean and maintain.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Gayle Bair on thu 6 apr 00
Ever the recycler...
I use canvas (from oil painting days) on
covered drawing boards (from college days)
that I have clamped to an old printer stand
(old printer days). I put one foot on the stand
and wedge away! It's light weight and easy to clean.
It works great for me and very portable!
I also nail strips of wood to the board when
making tiles. then I can pound or roll the clay to
the size I need. When done I pry off the strips.
My two sense!
Gayle Bair
gaylebair@earthlink.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Veena Raghavan
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 12:44 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Re: wood as opposed to plaster for wedging table
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I just wanted to put in my two cents worth about wedging surfaces. I agree
with Ivor Lewis and Richard Gilbert about a wood as opposed to a plaster
surface. I work out of a group studio, where we use plaster wedging tables.
There is a constant problem with chips of plaster getting into the clay.
Everyone is not careful about how they use the surface, and it is difficult
to control in a teaching studio. I hope to have my own studio in the near
future, and plan to have either a wood wedging table, because I feel it is
easier to clean and maintain.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Don & Isao Morrill on thu 6 apr 00
At 15:44 4/5/00 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I just wanted to put in my two cents worth about wedging surfaces. I agree
>with Ivor Lewis and Richard Gilbert about a wood as opposed to a plaster
>surface. I work out of a group studio, where we use plaster wedging tables.
>There is a constant problem with chips of plaster getting into the clay.
>Everyone is not careful about how they use the surface, and it is difficult
>to control in a teaching studio. I hope to have my own studio in the near
>future, and plan to have either a wood wedging table, because I feel it is
>easier to clean and maintain.
>
>Veena
>
>
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520@compuserve.com
>
Veena, We have used canvas covered plywood for over 35 yrs. and
found it most satisfactory. A suggestion: A large 'end'grain' wood slab
works beautifully. Butchers Bocks are constructed of many short pieces of
end-grain maple....especially because the end-grain is highly absorbent and
does not splinter. Nearly any wood should do the trick and certainly worth
a try.
Don & Isao
Don & Isao Sanami Morrill
e-Mail:
vince pitelka on thu 6 apr 00
I don't know if this has been mentioned, because I have been unable to
follow this thread completely, but my very favorite wedging surface is wood
covered tightly with heavy canvas duck. Get at least 12-oz. canvas, and
staple it tightly behind the board. The clay releases beautifully from the
canvas, and the canvas provides just the right amount of friction for
effective wedging.
For those who prefer wedging on plaster (which I have NEVER understood), you
can also cover a plaster wedging surface with canvas, stapling it to the
wooden frame. The plaster will still absorb moisture, but you will never
have any problems with plaster chips getting in the clay.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Anji Henderson on thu 6 apr 00
I second the wood... I was going to write something
before but I was too tired.. Hahahahaha not to say I
am not on the verge or well beyond it now.. You never
know any more...
Well, as for two cents go.. When I started setting up
my studio, I had to have a table to work on.. Well,
not knowing much, and having a strange post with holes
in the top in my basement I put a big piece of wood
across and sunk the screws.. Tada table.. So I had a
small block of plaster for drying then wedged on the
wood..
It has been three years now, and the wood (did I say
an old board from the barn, probably older then I will
ever live) well, the wood is in the same condition,
just a lot darker.. The only real set back I have
encountered is those set in screws and rolling out
slabs, but tada, I have an unpainted cement floor.. :)
Now YES it is much easier to clean.... I go from dark
dark clay to porcelain, and my porcelain is still
soooo white it has a blue tinge...
I also see no need now to acquire a plaster wedging
table, BUT if any one has a slab roller.. :)
Anji
--- Veena Raghavan <75124.2520@compuserve.com> wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> I just wanted to put in my two cents worth about
> wedging surfaces. I agree
> with Ivor Lewis and Richard Gilbert about a wood as
> opposed to a plaster
> surface. I work out of a group studio, where we use
> plaster wedging tables.
> There is a constant problem with chips of plaster
> getting into the clay.
> Everyone is not careful about how they use the
> surface, and it is difficult
> to control in a teaching studio. I hope to have my
> own studio in the near
> future, and plan to have either a wood wedging
> table, because I feel it is
> easier to clean and maintain.
>
> Veena
>
>
> Veena Raghavan
> 75124.2520@compuserve.com
>
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Don Jones on fri 7 apr 00
Hi Vince,
Maybe I can help you understand. Canvas on wedging tables drives me
absolutely crazy. Sometimes the clay is wet....too wet for canvas. Often,
it comes out of the bag with a slick coating . Canvas gets dusty and smooth
and too damp too soon for a lot of throwing work. It gets wet and stays wet
for a lot longer time than bare plaster. It tears, things get underneath
it. Cleaning it can be a real chore. The one thing that really drove me up
the wall in art school were people who dumped their latest wheel failure on
the canvas wedging table and left a gooey mess. Nobody can work on it.
Later someone has to scrape up the dried slip with something edgy and not
good for the canvas.
I work on bare plaster and have not had any problems with plaster chips
after
it was broken in. I think the problems some people are experiencing come
from improperly prepared plaster on the table and other folks using sharp
tools to release clay from it.
Don Jones
http://www.highfiber.com/~claysky
>For those who prefer wedging on plaster (which I have NEVER understood), you
>can also cover a plaster wedging surface with canvas, stapling it to the
>wooden frame. The plaster will still absorb moisture, but you will never
>have any problems with plaster chips getting in the clay.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
>
>Vince Pitelka
Katie Cordrey on sat 8 apr 00
I have two work tables built with old wooden doors as tops. They're great for we
Anji Henderson wrote:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I second the wood... I was going to write something
before but I was too tired.. Hahahahaha not to say I
am not on the verge or well beyond it now.. You never
know any more...
Well, as for two cents go.. When I started setting up
my studio, I had to have a table to work on.. Well,
not knowing much, and having a strange post with holes
in the top in my basement I put a big piece of wood
across and sunk the screws.. Tada table.. So I had a
small block of plaster for drying then wedged on the
wood..
It has been three years now, and the wood (did I say
an old board from the barn, probably older then I will
ever live) well, the wood is in the same condition,
just a lot darker.. The only real set back I have
encountered is those set in screws and rolling out
slabs, but tada, I have an unpainted cement floor.. :)
Now YES it is much easier to clean.... I go from dark
dark clay to porcelain, and my porcelain is still
soooo white it has a blue tinge...
I also see no need now to acquire a plaster wedging
table, BUT if any one has a slab roller.. :)
Anji
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
Virginia Piazza on sat 8 apr 00
Veena,
The wedging tables at the Crafts Students League are made from wooden boards
covered by heavy artist's canvas. They are set into heavily constructed
tables.
They are pretty trouble free-the canvas wears out, and they are
"re-upholstered"
perioducally. I have had one built in a smaller size, and of course lower
height, as I am pretty short.
I don't miss any of the problems associated with plaster.
Virginia
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on sat 8 apr 00
----- Original Message -----
From: vince pitelka
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: wood as opposed to plaster for wedging table
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I don't know if this has been mentioned, because I have been unable to
> follow this thread completely, but my very favorite wedging surface is
wood
> covered tightly with heavy canvas duck. Get at least 12-oz. canvas, and
> staple it tightly behind the board. The clay releases beautifully from
the
> canvas, and the canvas provides just the right amount of friction for
> effective wedging.
>
> For those who prefer wedging on plaster (which I have NEVER understood),
you
> can also cover a plaster wedging surface with canvas, stapling it to the
> wooden frame. The plaster will still absorb moisture, but you will never
> have any problems with plaster chips getting in the clay.
> Best wishes -
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
> 615/597-5376
> Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
> 615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
I mentioned wedging on wood a few days ago. It seems there is a discepancy
or misunderstanding with the terminology "wedging" and "kneading".
Wedging is a method where you cut the clay in half (with the clay wedgeing
up off the surface at about 30 - 45 degree angle this is easy) and bring the
cut half down on top of the part on the wedging (table) surface, and repeat.
I use the Stoke-on Trent method.
Kneading (which everybody seems to be talking about and calling it wedging)
is a process of moving the clay in a rythmical motion and folding it back on
itself, viz: bulls horns (or nose) method or spiral kneading. I use both, as
I interchange if I am getting a bit of RSI using the spiral method, and vice
versa.
Happy potting Marek http://www.moley.uk.com
vince pitelka on sat 8 apr 00
Don -
I have been wedging on canvas for almost thirty years. I use HEAVY canvas,
stapled tightly over a board, anchored down to a heavy frame fastened to the
wall. I have never had it tear, have never had anything get under it. It
is easy to clean with a very wet sponge. If the clay is too wet, I let it
stiffen up a bit first. It works great, with noneof the problems of a
plaster surface. And regarding the people in art school who dump their
rejects on the wedging table, that is a problem whether the surface is
canvas or plaster.
Best wishes -
- Vince
> it comes out of the bag with a slick coating . Canvas gets dusty and
smooth
> and too damp too soon for a lot of throwing work. It gets wet and stays
wet for a lot longer time than bare plaster. It tears, things get
underneath
> it. Cleaning it can be a real chore. The one thing that really drove me
up
> the wall in art school were people who dumped their latest wheel failure
on the canvas wedging table and left a gooey mess. Nobody can work on it.
Later someone has to scrape up the dried slip with something edgy and not
good for the canvas.
> I work on bare plaster and have not had any problems with plaster chips
after it was broken in. I think the problems some people are experiencing
come
> from improperly prepared plaster on the table and other folks using sharp
tools to release clay from it.
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Veena Raghavan on sat 8 apr 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Veena, We have used canvas covered plywood for over 35 yrs. and
found it most satisfactory. A suggestion: A large 'end'grain' wood slab
works beautifully. Butchers Bocks are constructed of many short pieces of
end-grain maple....especially because the end-grain is highly absorbent and
does not splinter. Nearly any wood should do the trick and certainly worth
a try.
Don & Isao
<
Don and Isao,
The same studio where we have plaster wedging tables also has
tables covered in canvas for handbuilding. Over the years, the canvas has
collected a lot of dried clay, which in turn turns to clay dust. Having had
both of these experiences, that is why I am settling for wood, when I have
my own studio. In my apartment, I use canvas, which is backed with some
kind of plastic. I can scrub these sheets with water and a brush and get
all the clay out right after I have used them. This used to be available
from Axner, but they have not had it for some years.
Thanks for your advice as to the type of wood for the wedging
table.
All the best.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Fredrick Paget on sun 9 apr 00
I have been using a piece of slate from a broken billiard table for a
weging table and it is covered with a piece of canvas. To hold the canvas I
am using a couple of pieces of aluminum extrusion designed to hold plastic
greenhouse covering. The canvas (or plastic) goes into a groove in the
lower part held there by the covering aluminum extrusion that snaps in
place. Easy to put on and remove. The table is a copy of
Stephen Jepsons table and has about a 20 degree reverse slope so you are
pushing the clay downhill. It is easy to remove the canvas and wash it.
Works fine too.
>From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
vince pitelka on sun 9 apr 00
> I mentioned wedging on wood a few days ago. It seems there is a discepancy
> or misunderstanding with the terminology "wedging" and "kneading".
> Wedging is a method where you cut the clay in half (with the clay wedgeing
> up off the surface at about 30 - 45 degree angle this is easy) and bring
the
> cut half down on top of the part on the wedging (table) surface, and
repeat.
Marek -
There is no misunderstanding at all. We do not use the term "kneading" at
all, and we refer to the working of the clay with the hands in a spiral
fashion as "wedging." As you have no doubt noticed, I am an advocate for
the correct use of terminology, and for the preservation of correct usage,
but this is a case where the original meaning is no longer in use at all, at
least on this side of the pond.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Veena Raghavan on sun 9 apr 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>The wedging tables at the Crafts Students League are made from wooden
boards
covered by heavy artist's canvas. They are set into heavily constructed
tables.
They are pretty trouble free-the canvas wears out, and they are
"re-upholstered"
perioducally. I have had one built in a smaller size, and of course lower
height, as I am pretty short.
I don't miss any of the problems associated with plaster.
<
Virginia,
I too am short and need a lower wedging table. Just waiting until I
have my own studio, so I can have one at the right height. I find wedging
at a table that is too high not only makes wedging more difficult, but is a
strain on my wrists. When I wedge at a lower level, I do not feel this
strain.
I wonder if anyone else has had this experience?
My later post, don't really know if it made it to Clayart pointed out that
canvas tends to collect dry clay in the weave, and this is impossible to
clean off, because the canvas is attached to the table (or the board set
into the table). Plain wood (or as others have mentioned stone or concrete)
can be cleaned off completely with no dry clay residue. Would this not be
healthier?
Either on Clayart, or in a book or magazine (can't keep track
anymore as to where I am collecting all this information!), there was
mention of a tilted wedging surface (tilting away from you) that causes
less strain. Has anyone on Clayart tried this. Would love to know if they
have and if they find it better.
Thank you Virginia, and thanks in advance to anyone else who has input.
All the best.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Pierre Brayford on mon 10 apr 00
OK so what do you call what in the UK is called wedging?
(putting it through the pugmill perhaps!!!)
Pierre
-----Original Message-----
From: vince pitelka
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: 10 April 2000 02:01
Subject: Re: wood as opposed to plaster for wedging table
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I mentioned wedging on wood a few days ago. It seems there is a
discepancy
>> or misunderstanding with the terminology "wedging" and "kneading".
>> Wedging is a method where you cut the clay in half (with the clay
wedgeing
>> up off the surface at about 30 - 45 degree angle this is easy) and bring
>the
>> cut half down on top of the part on the wedging (table) surface, and
>repeat.
>
>Marek -
>There is no misunderstanding at all. We do not use the term "kneading" at
>all, and we refer to the working of the clay with the hands in a spiral
>fashion as "wedging." As you have no doubt noticed, I am an advocate for
>the correct use of terminology, and for the preservation of correct usage,
>but this is a case where the original meaning is no longer in use at all,
at
>least on this side of the pond.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
>
>Vince Pitelka
>Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
>615/597-5376
>Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
>615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
>Appalachian Center for Crafts
>Tennessee Technological University
>1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
>http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Pancioli on mon 10 apr 00
Marek:
I have heard British potters call what Vince describes "SLAM wedging"
(as opposed to circular or snail wedging). That sounds like a good
descriptive term to me.
Diana
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