Beth Christensen on tue 9 may 00
This is a real beginners question so thanks in advance for your patience. I
live in a very rural area where there is little opportunity for classes and
some things just aren't clear in books and catalogs!
For cone 6 stoneware, can I use stains to paint designs on my pottery? Does
this mean the Mason Stains I see advertised in catalogs? Do I paint them
directly on greenware or bisque and then glaze over them with clear glaze?
Two firings or one? Or do I mix them with the clear glaze first? Or white
glaze? Can I use stains to make colored slips out of the clay body I am
using?
Thanks!
Cindy Strnad on wed 10 may 00
Beth,
Yes. You can use the Mason or other stains in all the ways you mentioned.
For coloring glazes, you might add anything from less than one percent up to
ten percent. That doesn't mean the stains won't leach out of the glaze. That
depends upon the stain and the glaze.
For painting on pottery or glaze surfaces, it helps to mix the stains with
frit (I use Ferro 3134) or the ever more elusive gerstly borate, using
glycerin to wet the powders in place of water for ease of application.
Whether you're painting under or over a glaze, you'll want a glaze that
stays put, especially if you're decorating a vertical surface. Otherwise,
your brushwork will run down the pot with the glaze flow. Semi-matte or
matte glazes work best, usually.
Cindy Strnad
earthenv@gwtc.net
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
Wade Blocker on wed 10 may 00
----------
> From: Beth Christensen
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Stains
> Date: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 12:09 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> This is a real beginners question so thanks in advance for your patience.
I
> live in a very rural area where there is little opportunity for classes
and
> some things just aren't clear in books and catalogs!
> For cone 6 stoneware, can I use stains to paint designs on my pottery?
Does
> this mean the Mason Stains I see advertised in catalogs? Do I paint them
> directly on greenware or bisque and then glaze over them with clear
glaze?
> Two firings or one? Or do I mix them with the clear glaze first? Or
> glaze? Can I use stains to make colored slips out of the clay body I am
> using?
> Thanks!
Beth,
On greenware I would use an engobe or slip colored with Mason stains to
paint a design on your pot, then bisque it and glaze it with a clear
glaze..
On bisqued ware you can use a stain to color your pot before glazing it
with a clear glaze, or use a colored slip with a formulation that fits your
clay body.
The stains can be used to color your glaze before you apply it to the
bisqued ware.
I would suggest that you read Ceramic Design by John B. Kenny. He has
answers for all your questions. I hope this helps. Mia in sunny and warm
ABQ
Mayssan Shora Farra on wed 10 may 00
I have used mason stains effectively on bisqued ware under clear glaze. But
also over white glaze for a whiter background. both methods require just a
second firing since the ware is already bisqued. One problem though is that
some stains tend to run under the clear but not over the white. there are ads
for majolica base to mix the stains in, but I never tried it. working with
the stains which come in powder form and you mix with extender, suspender and
water is like working with water colors on top of chalk so it takes getting
used to. also I sometimes add touches of glaze to give the painting a better
depth.
Mason stains also work really well when mixed with white clay body slip,
slurry, but I do that of course in just thrown or leather hard pots and these
I bisque then glaze with clear or for color variations other transparent
glazes.
Have fun with it as much as I do and enjoy the good surprises and the bad.
and if you find other ways please let me know I am still learning too
Mayssan
www.clayvillepottery.com
Nina Jones on wed 10 may 00
------------------
Actually, Liza, you can do all of these things with the stains. You are
restrained only by what you plan on doing with the ware (functional or
non-functional), your imagination and the availability of your materials. =
The
Clayart archives are rich with information regarding the use of stains.
Some stains don't work well in or under certain glazes containing zinc, for
example, Mason's Blackberry Wine and Mulberry, while others, Saturn Orange =
and
Chocolate, need the zinc to get the best color. Be careful with commercial
glazes because very often you can't get the recipe, but experiment=21 For
coloring slips, I recommend that you use the stains formulated to be used as
body stains. Your supplier should have spec sheets for the Mason stains and=
it
will list most of the technical information you will need to use as a guide.
For decoration on greenware, you can create an underglaze with the stain by
mixing it with the slip or a frit (I'm not sure which, anybody out there?) =
You
can also make simple stains with coloring oxides, copper oxide, red iron =
oxide,
etc.
There are so many possibilities, you have to experiment and test. One quote=
I
love on Clayart is =22your mileage may vary=22 (who says that?) because it =
is
absolutely true. And don't forget to search the archives, use search words
=22stains=22 =22underglaze=22 and =22slip.=22
Nina D. Jones
Southside Chicago
=40 njones=40winston.com
Paul Lewing on wed 10 may 00
Beth Christensen wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> For cone 6 stoneware, can I use stains to paint designs on my pottery?
Yes
Does
> this mean the Mason Stains I see advertised in catalogs?
Yes, although there are other brands of ceramic stains than those made
by Mason. And you can also use the same coloring oxides that you use to
color glazes. They're what Mason stains are made from.
Do I paint them
> directly on greenware or bisque and then glaze over them with clear glaze?
Yes, you can paint them directly on either greenware or bisque and put a
clear glaze over them. No need for a separate firing to set the stains.
I always preferred to apply them on bisque because I found I was less
likely to smudge them while I was loading and unloading them in the
bisque. You can also apply them on top of a raw unfired glaze, either a
clear glaze (if you're working with white clay) or a white glaze. Or a
colored glaze, for that matter. A lot of strong colored glazes can look
good with a stain drawing or wash over them. Of course, you would not
apply them under a dark glaze; they'd be wasted.
> Two firings or one? Or do I mix them with the clear glaze first? Or white
> glaze?
Many people mix their stains with some clear glaze or with a flux such
as a frit or some Gerstley Borate. Some stains need this and some
don't. Most stains will need it more if they're aplied over a glaze
than if they're under. Try each stain alone first and see if you need a
flux. This will also depend on the thickness, clarity, and composition
of the glaze.
Can I use stains to make colored slips out of the clay body I am
> using?
Yes. For best and most consistent results, dry the clay first (trimming
scraps work best for this), crush it, strain it (80 mesh or so), and
weigh it, then add water to the consistency you like. That way you can
determine what percentage of stain you like best. It usually takes
about 6% stain to make a strong color in a glaze, and more to make a
strong colored clay. It will probably take 10% or so to get a
pronounced color in a slip.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Vicki Ferris on thu 11 may 00
Hi Beth,
Just recently I started painting some of my pots. I bought Mason stains and
mixed them with water. I glaze them first using a white base glaze and let
dry for a day. Then I paint the designs the next day. The first time I tried
it there were little colored specs in the background white, so I am now
mixing some CMC gum into each of the colors so they won't flake off when they
dry. It takes awhile to figure out how much colorant to add to the water. The
stains are very concentrated and it doesn't take much. I have sampled three
kiln loads so far, and I am still thinning out the colorants.
It takes time to figure it all out, but I am happy with the results so far.
Good luck!
Vicki in Cool, California
--------------------------Original message----------------------------
This is a real beginners question so thanks in advance for your patience. I
live in a very rural area where there is little opportunity for classes and
some things just aren't clear in books and catalogs!
For cone 6 stoneware, can I use stains to paint designs on my pottery? Does
this mean the Mason Stains I see advertised in catalogs? Do I paint them
directly on greenware or bisque and then glaze over them with clear glaze?
Two firings or one? Or do I mix them with the clear glaze first? Or white
glaze? Can I use stains to make colored slips out of the clay body I am
using?
Thanks!
will edwards on thu 19 oct 00
Would someone re-post the method for adding 3124 to Mason stains and the =
way
they thicken it. I suppose CMC was the addition but I missed the post.
I dug in the archives but couldn't find what I was looking for!
What I gathered was the stains were used like a paint apparently on a whi=
te
slip surface or tin based surface glaze? Some clarification on my part is=
needed for this method! It sounds like a good thing for the Kid's program=
since they like bright color and the ability to paint like they are using=
acrylics. All suggestions welcome!
TIA
WE
____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
1
george koller on wed 11 jun 03
Beth,
We did double firing as a matter of course in our two
layered process and there was no change of coloring.
We fired many colors to Cone 04.
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI - Door County
Northport, MI
Beth Ellen Nagle wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am exploring stains (Mason) for the first time. Can these stains go through multiple firings?
>
> Beth Ellen Nagle
>
> www.apostate.com/~bethellen
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Marcia Selsor on wed 11 jun 03
If you are referring to commercial stains like degussa or mason, yes.
They have been made by fritting and have been fired and pulverized in
their creation. Multiple firings are not a problem.
Marcia
Beth Ellen Nagle wrote:
> Hello all,
>
>
> I am exploring stains (Mason) for the first time. Can these stains go through multiple firings?
>
> Beth Ellen Nagle
>
> www.apostate.com/~bethellen
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Beth Ellen Nagle on wed 11 jun 03
Hello all,
I am exploring stains (Mason) for the first time. Can these stains go =
through multiple firings?=20
Beth Ellen Nagle
www.apostate.com/~bethellen
| |
|
