Acssfox@AOL.COM on wed 17 may 00
Dear Clayart Friends,
I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to a
previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not have
an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach these
angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this joint
and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go! It
is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
Cheers.
Carole,
in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG pots
to trim!
Carole Fox
67 S. Edgewood Ln.
Elkton, MD 21921
Acssfox@aol.com
Cindy Strnad on wed 17 may 00
Carole,
To make large pots, I throw my base and give it a spearhead-shaped rim.
(Like this: ^.) Then I take the original pot off the wheel and throw a thick
ring. The top of the ring will be the same diameter as the thrown and
removed base, and have a V shape cut into it. I cut the ring almost but not
quite completely from the bat and remove it from the wheel. I replace the
original pot, whose walls have been allowed to stiffen somewhat. I carefully
invert the bat on which I've thrown the thick ring over the base pot and fit
the V over the "male" rim of the base pot, then compress and work the joint.
I don't score and slip or use paper clay, and this hasn't been a problem for
me, with the clay I'm using. I then proceed to raise the walls until they're
thin enough and I need to add another ring, or until the pot is finished. As
always, dry gently.
You could do this with your coils, too. Instead of a simple mitered joint,
you could make the "tongue and groove" type of joint I've been using. I
think it may hold up better to the pressures of subsequent throwing. Have
fun.
Cindy Strnad
earthenv@gwtc.net
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
Rod, Marian, and Holly Morris on wed 17 may 00
I have played around with doing this on a smaller scale. One thought is that
adding the slip weakens the clay at the joint. How would it work to just
"thumb" the coil on to the edge, drawing clay from the coil down on both
sides of the pot, and then proceed with the throwing? I've done that on my
smaller pots with no problems.
what I like about this method is you can let the pot firm up a bit as you go
and get a taller pot.
Carole wrote:
> Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to
a
> previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not
have
> an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
> diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
> p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach
these
> angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this
joint
> and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go!
It
> is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
> learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
> taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG
pots
> to trim!
>
> Carole Fox
> 67 S. Edgewood Ln.
> Elkton, MD 21921
> Acssfox@aol.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Mike Gordon on wed 17 may 00
Hi,
Have you tried throwing the bottom piece, trimming it ,then recentering
it on the wheel, and adding another thrown piece on top of it?A lot
quicker than coil building. When I do coil building, I usually just
pinch large coils on and smooth with a metal rib, wet sponge and rib,
repeat till smooth. Mike Gordon
Stephen Grimmer on wed 17 may 00
Carole,
You might try using just water at the joints; the paperclay slurry may
be softening the clay in that area too much.
Another technique for throwing large is to add on thick, thrown rings
instead of coils. Measure with calipers to get the right size, and throw a
bowl-shaped slug with no bottom. Lift it up with the bat, flip, attach to
the base, and cut the bat off.
Advantages: clay is centered and there is no vertical seam. Disadvantage:
you gotta measure well.
Like so: (needs monospaced font, like courier)
Bat ___
Added section / Base of pot | |
|_|
Steve Grimmer
----------
>From: Acssfox@AOL.COM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: coil throwing
>Date: Wed, May 17, 2000, 8:16 AM
>
>Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to a
>previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not have
>an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
>diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
>p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach these
>angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this joint
>and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go! It
>is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
>learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
>taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG pots
>to trim!
>
>Carole Fox
>67 S. Edgewood Ln.
>Elkton, MD 21921
>Acssfox@aol.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
DONALD G. GOLDSOBEL on wed 17 may 00
Try making the coil longer than the length needed, overlap the two ends and
cut diagonally through the overlap. The two ends will math up exactly.
discard the extra length. Don't do much to join the ends. The throwing
process will take care of the joinder.
Donald G. At 09:16 AM 05/17/2000 EDT, you wrote:
>Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to a
>previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not have
>an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
>diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
>p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach these
>angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this joint
>and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go! It
>is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
>learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
>taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG pots
>to trim!
>
>Carole Fox
>67 S. Edgewood Ln.
>Elkton, MD 21921
>Acssfox@aol.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Heidrun Schmid on thu 18 may 00
Carole,
in a video from Robin Hopper he shows this method, but he is not making hand roled
coils but rols flat long bands of clay and then adds them together in an angle.
They are a bit thicker than the walls of the pot so there is enough clay to even
out the difference between added coil and pot. I hope this helps you a bit. I might
try this now myself!
Heidrun in bangkok
Acssfox@AOL.COM wrote:
> Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to a
> previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not have
> an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
> diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
> p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach these
> angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this joint
> and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go! It
> is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
> learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
> taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG pots
> to trim!
>
> Carole Fox
> 67 S. Edgewood Ln.
> Elkton, MD 21921
> Acssfox@aol.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Anji Henderson on thu 18 may 00
<learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces
taller than your kiln!>>
You made my day!!!! I still have my "hard way" sitting
on my porch, luckilly buisqued.. : ) To be glazed
.......... One day............
I found that if you coil taking the counter clock-ways
piece on the inside of the piece and the clock-wise on
the outside .. then cut at a diagional on the 4
O'Clock like this More of an angel though.. (oooh this is assuming that
you have a counter clockwise wheel)Then join them
together well it helps.. But, eventually you will get
tired of making the coils, as I did and start pushing
your self to throw higher, to reduce the amount of
coils you make.. : ) I am to the point where I just
coil the shoulder and neck.. There is that point where
you have done it a couple times and you realise that
YES you can do it and that feeling is the best..
Hope this helps..
Anji
Http://WWW.Angelfire.com/md/Anji
--- Acssfox@AOL.COM wrote:
> Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large
> pots by adding coils to a
> previously thrown base and then throwing them onto
> the piece. I do not have
> an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to
> about a two inch
> diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base
> scored and slipped with
> p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a
> fettling knife. I attach these
> angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with
> my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it
> seems to pull on this joint
> and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone
> have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this
> technique- give it a go! It
> is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here
> is some advice that I
> learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces
> taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and
> honeysuckle vines are
> taking over and I really should be gardening but I
> have some really BIG pots
> to trim!
>
> Carole Fox
> 67 S. Edgewood Ln.
> Elkton, MD 21921
> Acssfox@aol.com
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
__________________________________________________
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Liz Gowen on fri 19 may 00
I have used this method to throw some large floor type planters
( 18x24) I found the key is to use a fairly soft coil, flatten it a bit with
a roller before putting it on the pot you wish to make taller. I angle cut
where the 2 coils meet. Don't really use slip to attach it at all. Be sure
the pot you attach it to is stiff but not leather hard. Get the wheel going
and kind of center it, get it even and let it mesh with the pot before
trying to use the clay to make it taller. It softens the other rim as you do
this so tends to show less of a joint . Let this stiffen or hasten it's
stiffening with a heat gun before repeating it if you still want it
bigger.Hope this makes sense I seem to be at a loss for the words to
describe it better. Play with it a bit, it works well and decreases the
huge amount of clay I would have to center otherwise.
Liz Gowen elgowen@jersey.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Acssfox@AOL.COM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: coil throwing
>Dear Clayart Friends,
> I have been having lots of fun throwing large pots by adding coils to a
>previously thrown base and then throwing them onto the piece. I do not have
>an extruder (bummer) and my coils are hand-rolled to about a two inch
>diameter. I place the coil on the rim of the base scored and slipped with
>p-clay and cut the over lap at an angle with a fettling knife. I attach
these
>angled joints with p-clay and smoothe the join with my finger.
> My problem is that when I throw the coil it seems to pull on this joint
>and I get an indentation in that area. Does anyone have any tips for me?
> And anyone out there who hasn't tried this technique- give it a go! It
>is SO much fun and you won't know when to stop! Here is some advice that I
>learned the hard way, though - Don't make pieces taller than your kiln!
> Cheers.
> Carole,
> in Elkton, Maryland where the wild roses and honeysuckle vines are
>taking over and I really should be gardening but I have some really BIG
pots
>to trim!
>
>Carole Fox
>67 S. Edgewood Ln.
>Elkton, MD 21921
>Acssfox@aol.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Bonnie Staffel on sat 20 may 00
Dear Carole,
I throw with coils all the time. I found that if I join the ends
(angled) without slip, really press together and wipe all sides of the
coil to blend, it holds up beautifully. I cut my angles with a string,
not a knife, so there is no distortion of the coil. The clay should be
on the soft side. I feel that the slip is "slipping" for you and
creating the problem you are having.
Hope this helps.
Bonnie Staffel of Charlevoix, MI, where spring is just emerging.
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