Dannon Rhudy on thu 25 may 00
....he mentions a soda ash wash technique on raw clay that he learned from
Dannon and Mel. Would it be possible to hear from you how this is done.
Is it possible with an electric kiln.......
To make the wash of soda ash, make a saturated solution in
very hot water. A little goes a long way, try mixing
about a half-cup at a time. Then, just brush it on the
unglazed bisqueware. If you let it sit for a while, you
will note little crystals, like fine salt, on the surface
of the ware. Experiment a bit, because thickness definitely
affects appearance. Too thin, not much happens. Too thick,
it will turn greenish/glassy, or clear glassy. Not great.
On light clays or porcelains, a toasty warm orange. On
clays with a lot of iron, a much darker tone. Slight gloss,
the clay shows through. I believe there are some people on
the list who are using it in electric kilns - perhaps they'll
volunteer their experience. It affects glazes, too, in various
ways, but you'd have to test.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Alisa and Claus Clausen on thu 25 may 00
Recently on a URL of Chris, posted on the list, he mentions a soda ash =
wash technique on raw clay that he learned from Dannon and Mel. Would =
it be possible to hear from you how this is done. Is it possible with =
an electric kiln. I liked the surface very much and have bags and bags =
of the stuff around. =20
Much appreciated,
Best regards,
Alisa in Denmark
Cheryl L Litman on thu 25 may 00
I mixed as much soda ash as would dissolve in very hot water and brushed
it onto bisqued cone 6 clay. Really liked what happened. Every time I
go back to use the soda ash solution I reheat it in a double boiler to
dissolve the crystals again. I've used it over glazes as well and had
some interesting flashing. Over a green copper glaze I ended up with
turquoise highlights.
I'm wondering if I'd eventually damage my shelves if I used it on the
bottom of pieces (from the fuming) - pieces with feet but I would love
the soda on the bottom of a tray.
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
***Experience is what allows you to recognize a mistake......when you
make it again.***
On Thu, 25 May 2000 20:14:29 +0200 Alisa and Claus Clausen
writes:
> Recently on a URL of Chris, posted on the list, he mentions a soda
> ash =
> wash technique on raw clay that he learned from Dannon and Mel.
> Would =
> it be possible to hear from you how this is done. Is it possible
> with =
> an electric kiln. I liked the surface very much and have bags and
> bags =
> of the stuff around. =20
>
> Much appreciated,
> Best regards,
> Alisa in Denmark
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
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> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
***Experience is what allows you to recognize a mistake......when you
make it again.***
Cheryl L Litman on fri 26 may 00
Dannon,
Now that you post this it explains something I did and didn't realize.
One of my first test pieces with the wash I had a supersaturated solution
with boiling water and I dunked the test tile in and held it for a few
seconds. Came out with a greenish glossy 'glaze' on it. The next time I
used it on a piece I didn't have the water as hot and brushed it on and
instead of the greenish gloss I was expecting, I got orange matt
flashing. This is what I've gotten every time since when on bare clay.
I assumed I had mislabeled that first piece since I was doing so many
tests at once. Now I see that it's because I put so much more soda on
it. Thanks.
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
***Experience is what allows you to recognize a mistake......when you
make it again.***
On Thu, 25 May 2000 20:32:50 -0500 Dannon Rhudy
writes:
> ....he mentions a soda ash wash technique on raw clay that he learned
> from
> Dannon and Mel. Would it be possible to hear from you how this is
> done.
> Is it possible with an electric kiln.......
>
> To make the wash of soda ash, make a saturated solution in
> very hot water. A little goes a long way, try mixing
> about a half-cup at a time. Then, just brush it on the
> unglazed bisqueware. If you let it sit for a while, you
> will note little crystals, like fine salt, on the surface
> of the ware. Experiment a bit, because thickness definitely
> affects appearance. Too thin, not much happens. Too thick,
> it will turn greenish/glassy, or clear glassy. Not great.
> On light clays or porcelains, a toasty warm orange. On
> clays with a lot of iron, a much darker tone. Slight gloss,
> the clay shows through. I believe there are some people on
> the list who are using it in electric kilns - perhaps they'll
> volunteer their experience. It affects glazes, too, in various
> ways, but you'd have to test.
>
> regards
>
> Dannon Rhudy
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Cheryl Litman ---------- Somerset, NJ --------- email:
cheryllitman@juno.com
***Experience is what allows you to recognize a mistake......when you
make it again.***
Lynspots@AOL.COM on fri 26 may 00
<>
Dear Dannon and all,
I have used this soda ash solution in cone 6 oxidation firings (electric)
since learning of the process from Dannon, was it only last year? I have
mostly used it on textured, flat surfaces. I first either fill the textured
areas with glaze and then wipe off the excess, then apply the wash or use a
red iron oxide wash and do the same. The soda ash does not seem to make any
changes in the glazes, so I must be applying it lightly enough to get a mild
shiny surface w/o affecting the glazes, which are all dark ones.
In the workshop I took at Michael McDowell's farm with Dannon, I used slabs
that I had covered with a black slip first, textured, sprinkled with EPK, let
set up some and made a very nice lidded jar in Dannon's "pot-inside-a-pot"
technique (I've forgotten the real name for the process). The contrast of the
slipped strips and the buff clay we used, plus the powdery areas of EPK were
great. Most of the piece was covered with the soda ash solution and the
slipped areas kept their color nicely.
Not sure of the food safeness of this solution, Dannon, so I only use it on
decorative pieces and never on the inside of a pot. Usually just use a liner
glaze on the inside.
Lynne Antone
Beaver Creek Arts
Olympia WA USA
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