AK on thu 1 jun 00
This subject intrigues me and I have been following the tread and after
working hard to scan an Elmo image to print on a transfer for a t-shirt
(don't ask) I Just had a thought. How are decals made? I am thinking if you
can get a decal material to be receptive to a printer and scan your
photographic image onto a computer and print it on a decal sheet that could
be cool. I only used decals in school so I don't know a whole lot about
them (you know how that goes) who knows if the properties of it would allow
for this or if the material would be receptive to this process. Just an out
of the blue thought. Anybody know a lot about decals? This may be a total
impossible off the wall kind of thing.
Millie Carpenter on fri 2 jun 00
Hi
My father was a graphic artist and back in the late '50 early 60', I would help
him silk screen decals. there was a water based paper commerically available that
we used, the kind that you would soak in a pan of water than put it on glass and
slide the paper away, there was also an adhesive based backed paper that you
screened onto and then just peeled the backing away. the only thing to remember
is that for the water based adhesive, the design goes on backwards, mirror immages
here are two site, they have suplies and once you get your immage, you just print
it on the paper, a lot less messy than silk screening
http://www.ceramic-decal.com/model.cfm
http://www.papilio.com/
have Fun, you can even make your own bumper sticker.
Millie in Md, the weather was Seattle last week, now it is tropical rain forest.
AK wrote:
> This subject intrigues me and I have been following the tread and after
> working hard to scan an Elmo image to print on a transfer for a t-shirt
> (don't ask) I Just had a thought. How are decals made? I am thinking if you
> can get a decal material to be receptive to a printer and scan your
> photographic image onto a computer and print it on a decal sheet that could
> be cool. I only used decals in school so I don't know a whole lot about
> them (you know how that goes) who knows if the properties of it would allow
> for this or if the material would be receptive to this process. Just an out
> of the blue thought. Anybody know a lot about decals? This may be a total
> impossible off the wall kind of thing.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
BobWicks@AOL.COM on mon 5 jun 00
Silk screened decals have been used for years in the ceramic industry. It
merely means that you have to have some expertise in silk screen production.
I would say this, that for the most part you will be limited to the surface
characteristics such as cylinders or flat surfaces. Decals are difficult to
apply to other surfaces.
Bob Wicks
CreatvSpce@AOL.COM on wed 7 jun 00
I ask again, has anyone used "Liquid Light" photographic emulsion on their
pots? This is easy to do on curved surfaces, unlike decals it seems. All
you have to do is paint it on and develop the image on whatever pot shape you
wish. It works great on tiles too!
Anyone?
Helvi :)
Kelley Webb Randel on wed 7 jun 00
Hey Helvi,
where would you get this liquid light? i'm interested.
thanks in advance.
kelley
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:54 AM
Subject: Re: Photographic images on clay
> I ask again, has anyone used "Liquid Light" photographic emulsion on their
> pots? This is easy to do on curved surfaces, unlike decals it seems.
All
> you have to do is paint it on and develop the image on whatever pot shape
you
> wish. It works great on tiles too!
>
> Anyone?
>
> Helvi :)
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
CreatvSpce@AOL.COM on thu 8 jun 00
Hey Kelley,
I ordered it from the Porter's catalog (photographic supplies)....I can't
find the address right now but I will post it when I do. Many camera stores
can get it too.
~Helvi
In a message dated 6/8/00 8:33:00 PM, rakugddss@WORLDNET.ATT.NET writes:
<< Hey Helvi,
where would you get this liquid light? i'm interested.
thanks in advance.
kelley >>
Saic1984@AOL.COM on thu 8 jun 00
Hello all!
Ive tried the Liquid Light process on my ceramic work, and I'm not that=20
pleased with the results...the image, when placed on a curved surface is out=
=20
of focus in places due to the limited D-O-F (enlargers are meant to focus on=
=20
a flat sheet of paper). Also, the surface itself just doen't seem as=20
perminant as images fired on (decals).=20
Decal images are limited to half-tone images, and can be printed using=20
idividual colors or in combinations of colors, which works for my imagry, bu=
t=20
might not for everyone's...Where Liquid Light has its advantage....it will=20
produce a continuous tone (albeit black & white) image.=20
Andr=E9
Chicago
Bruce Girrell on thu 8 jun 00
Helvi asked:
>I ask again, has anyone used "Liquid Light" photographic emulsion on their
>pots? This is easy to do on curved surfaces, unlike decals it seems. All
>you have to do is paint it on and develop the image on whatever pot shape
you
>wish.
Just a friendly reminder - The curved surface will bite you with Liquid
Light also - not because of any properties of the product, but because the
image will be distorted when it is projected onto the curved surface*. For
relatively gentle curves, this will not be much of a problem, but then
relatively gentle curves make life easy for decals and silk screens, also.
Bruce "my neighbors always said I'd grow up to be a troublemaker" Girrell
*If you want to get really fancy, you can create a reverse distortion in the
original image so that the final image is restored when projected onto the
curved surface.
Shelley Corwin on fri 9 jun 00
you can get it from photographic stores, or silk screen supplies, its liquid
photo emeulsion.
jim sullivan on fri 5 jul 02
Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on =
clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few =
years ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give =
referrals if possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
jim sullivan on sat 6 jul 02
I would be very interested in this. Please e-mail it if possible. I am not
a Subscriber to Ceramics: Technical. I have a little experience silk
screening on tiles, but was hoping to figure out how to print(in a darkroom)
onto tiles and fire the images on.) They must do it when they put photos on
a mug at the drug store. Are they using decals? thanks, sue Sullivan
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Vandermeulen"
To:
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
> Hello Jim,
> There was a detailed article on silkscreening onto tiles in Ceramics:
Technical some months back by Alexandra McCurdy. If you can not find it I
will e-mail it.
> JHV
>
> jim sullivan wrote:
>
> > Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on
clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few years
ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give referrals if
possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
islandplace on sat 6 jul 02
Get Paul Scott's book http://www.artcumbria.org/hot_off_the_press.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim sullivan"
To:
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 11:20 PM
Subject: Photographic Images on Clay
Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on
clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few years
ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give referrals if
possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Ceramic Design Group on sat 6 jul 02
on 7/5/02 9:20 PM, jim sullivan at sulivan1@VERIZON.NET wrote:
> Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on =
> clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few =
> years ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give =
> referrals if possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
In 1975 I authored a 2 part article for Ceramics Monthly entitled "Making
Ceramic Decals."I would be happy to send you a copy. Send me a SASE with
double the postage and I'll forward you a copy.
Also Gerry Williams authored a p iecefor an early issue of Studio Potter
(studiopotter.org) on using photosensitive emulsions.
Jonathan
--
Jonathan Kaplan
CERAMIC DESIGN GROUP
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs, CO 80577
(970) 879-9139
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
John Vandermeulen on sat 6 jul 02
Hello Jim,
There was a detailed article on silkscreening onto tiles in Ceramics: Technical some months back by Alexandra McCurdy. If you can not find it I will e-mail it.
JHV
jim sullivan wrote:
> Can anyone off er techinical information about printing photographs on clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few years ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give referrals if possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
george koller on sat 6 jul 02
> Can anyone offer techinical information about printing photographs on clay...glazed tiles, or ? I know I saw this in Ceramics Monthly a few years ago but cannot find any technical infor. Please help or give referrals if possible. Thanks, Sue Sullivan
sue,
in the process we are evolving a bitmap image is first
converted to a vector graphic format (eps). this stage
can range from simple or complex, but the artist has
control. if the image stands up to the necessary reduction
in colors and complexity (some will even get "stronger") it
is fed to another software package (which i wrote). this
program determines the machine motions necessary to
remove glaze (using a diamond burr) and/or add colorants
(metal sulfates).
at this time we have a machine in michigan, and a machine
at alfred, ny. the machines are not simple or cheap but we
have many ideas for reducing the cost. i am interested
in working directly with clay artists to further evolve this
process which seems to have some significant potential.
this process is all ceramic, and can be done on a wide
variety of clay and glazes from glossy to matte, and from
low fire to high. the process is particularly advantageous
doing one ups.
let me know if you are interested in learning more.
best,
george koller
Les Elford on sun 7 jul 02
Check this Idea out!
Last month I was working at Clay Arts Guild of Helena. I met a Lady there that was using a HP computer printer and ceramic decal paper for black ink productions at ^ 012 with her work fired to higher temps first. Awesome pictures looked like old time photographs. I have not tried the process but I have seen it done!
Happy Printing,
Les in the Big Sky Country
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
Saic1984@AOL.COM on sun 7 jul 02
Please reply off list, I have given workshops in this process.
Andr=E9
SAIC1984@aol.com
Snail Scott on sun 7 jul 02
At 07:01 PM 7/6/02 -0700, you wrote:
They must do it when they put photos on
>a mug at the drug store.
That 'drugstore' process is very non-archival;
it will wear away after repeated dishwashings,
and it will fade even if never washed.
-Snail
Paul Brinkmann on sun 7 jul 02
Sue: When I read your letter, I thought of the book, by Frank Giorgini,
"Handmade Tiles". In chapter 7, page 70 he describes screen printing on
tiles, a technique that makes it possible to both transfer exact images of
either a sketch or photograph.
` Hope this info well be of some help. PG Brinkmann, "all flooded out
in Sunny San Antonio, Texas."
Janice Alexander on mon 8 jul 02
Fading must be due to a particular vendor. Mine is now almost eight years
old and still looks beautiful, not faded at all. It is a process called dye
sublimation. Don't know what that is, though.
Do know that the piece is coated with some material at the factory. Then
when the image is applied, it is done with heat and pressure.
Janice in NC
BobWicks@AOL.COM on tue 9 jul 02
Hi Janice:
Dye sublimation is a fugitive coloring agent and will not stand the limits of
time. You could test your experiment by taping a coin on the image area with
scotch tape and place it in the bright sun for a week or two. Then remove
the coin and note if you see any fading. This will give you a good idea of
how permanent this process is.
Bob
Frank8945 on wed 7 jul 04
I have been using a laser printer to make photographic images on clay.
The process is a bit of a pain; I don't let the paper go through the heater
part of the printer. Here is a link too some test work.
http://home.kooee.com.au/goodmar/goodmar/
Fredrick Paget on fri 18 feb 05
At the recent Macworld computer conference I was able to get test
prints from 2 black and white laser printers. I fired these images
onto glazed clay tiles from Home Depot (building supply company).
Test Results:
Hewlett Packard Laser Jet 1012--The toner produced an iron pigment image.
Brother 51700N laser printer -- No image. The toner burned off.
Apparently an organic or carbon pigment.
In addition the Xerox booth had personnel who knew toners and one
told me that the Xerox Phaser 4500 had iron in the toner.
There are about three ways that the toner is spread on the sensitive
surface of the print roller. One employs a magnet in the form or a
rod inside an aluminum tube to attract the bulk toner to the aluminum
tube surface where it is electrostaticly attracted to the laser image.
One of the other ways toner is spread uses a fluffy brush roller and
there is one using a doctor blade. The non magnetic methods are used
in the color printers and in some of the black and whites too, so be
sure to test before buying if you want to make laser decals.
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Lorene McIntosh on fri 18 feb 05
I fired these images
> onto glazed clay tiles from Home Depot (building supply company).
>
Hmmmm How did you get the images from the photocopies to the clay?!
Lorene
in the beautiful Minnesota northwoods
Diane Winters on sat 19 feb 05
Hi Fred,
You wrote:
> At the recent Macworld computer conference I was able to get test
> prints from 2 black and white laser printers. I fired these images
> onto glazed clay tiles from Home Depot (building supply company).
>
> Test Results:
>
> Hewlett Packard Laser Jet 1012--The toner produced an iron pigment image.
>
> Brother 51700N laser printer -- No image. The toner burned off.
> Apparently an organic or carbon pigment.
Were these images that you managed to retrieve from the printers before the
paper passed through the fuser (if so, how do you physically remove the
paper from the printer at that stage?) or were these regular laser prints
that exited the printer normally? Or were they printed on something other
that paper? And how did you fire them - just lay the prints toner-side down
on the glazed tiles? Cone 04 or such? I've got a Samsung laser printer
that's still running on its factory supplied toner, so I could do a little
test of it.
Diane in Oakland/Berkeley
Fredrick Paget on sat 19 feb 05
>Hi Fred,
>You wrote:
>
>Were these images that you managed to retrieve from the printers before the
>paper passed through the fuser (if so, how do you physically remove the
>paper from the printer at that stage?) or were these regular laser prints
>that exited the printer normally? Or were they printed on something other
>that paper? And how did you fire them - just lay the prints toner-side down
>on the glazed tiles? Cone 04 or such? I've got a Samsung laser printer
>that's still running on its factory supplied toner, so I could do a little
>test of it.
>
>Diane in Oakland/Berkeley
Hi Diane,
Most of your questions were answered in my post yesterday which you
should have by now. Regarding the Samsung printer - if you send me
your snail mail address I will send you a piece of release paper
which you can run in the printer with any kind of image and send back
to me and I will run the test and report.
I would like to do this with any other black and white laser printers
that I have not tested yet so any body else can get in on the testing
to. Just send me your address and I will mail the release paper. So
far I have tested HP and Brother brands.
Fred
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Diane Winters on sun 20 feb 05
Hi Fred,
Here's my home address, which is where I keep the printer:
Diane Winters
2179 E. 27th St.
Oakland, CA 94606
I didn't see any other post from you on this topic except the one I quoted
from (which only described your test results and several printers' internal
print mechanisms, but not the things I asked about) Are you sure it got
actually posted on clayart?
Diane
p.s. I did successfully divide my Bifrenaria harrisoniae and both parts
have happlily been churning out more bulbs and leaves, but neither has
graced me with any flowers, despite attempts to meet its conditions. I've
had it now for at least 6 years, so maybe I'll never see flowers. Oh, well,
I stiil like it anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
To:
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: Photographic Images on Clay
> >Hi Fred,
> >You wrote:
> >
> >Were these images that you managed to retrieve from the printers before
the
> >paper passed through the fuser (if so, how do you physically remove the
> >paper from the printer at that stage?) or were these regular laser prints
> >that exited the printer normally? Or were they printed on something
other
> >that paper? And how did you fire them - just lay the prints toner-side
down
> >on the glazed tiles? Cone 04 or such? I've got a Samsung laser printer
> >that's still running on its factory supplied toner, so I could do a
little
> >test of it.
> >
> >Diane in Oakland/Berkeley
> Hi Diane,
> Most of your questions were answered in my post yesterday which you
> should have by now. Regarding the Samsung printer - if you send me
> your snail mail address I will send you a piece of release paper
> which you can run in the printer with any kind of image and send back
> to me and I will run the test and report.
> I would like to do this with any other black and white laser printers
> that I have not tested yet so any body else can get in on the testing
> to. Just send me your address and I will mail the release paper. So
> far I have tested HP and Brother brands.
> Fred
> --
> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
> fredrick@well.com
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Fredrick Paget on sun 20 feb 05
>Hi Fred,
>
>Here's my home address, which is where I keep the printer:
>
>Diane Winters
>2179 E. 27th St.
>Oakland, CA 94606
>
>I didn't see any other post from you on this topic except the one I quoted
>from (which only described your test results and several printers' internal
>print mechanisms, but not the things I asked about) Are you sure it got
>actually posted on clayart?
>
>Diane
>p.s. I did successfully divide my Bifrenaria harrisoniae and both parts
>have happlily been churning out more bulbs and leaves, but neither has
>graced me with any flowers, despite attempts to meet its conditions. I've
>had it now for at least 6 years, so maybe I'll never see flowers. Oh, well,
>I stiil like it anyway.
Hi,
I will mail the paper Tuesday.
I found that the post I thought went to Clayart that is missing never
was sent there. It went direct to the questioner instead. Copy
enclosed with paper.
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Fredrick Paget on thu 25 aug 05
>Hi Fred,
>
>Are you still working on the digital ceramic image transfer? we developed
>many different ceramic toners for use in desktop colour or B/W laser
>printers, you can use them at 550oC , 800oC and some even for 1200oC, the
>decal printing work is just like your normal office printing, ceramists in
>more than ten countries are using this system now, we can send you samples
>if you still interested.
>
>Best Regards,
>
Cao Guihong
Hi Cao,
Yes, I am busy as ever and I have been getting some fine results
with the sticky ink process using a Canon ink jet printer to make
decals. I will bring some samples to the tile conference in Southern
California.
It prints only one color at a time but you can use any ceramic
stain to give that color so it works at any temperature you chose.
You just have to chose a stain for the firing temperature you want.
This opens up high temperature decals. You can make them for
stoneware glaze temperatures. I have developed my own ink that does
not plug up the ink jet's print head.
All this is very nice but the sticky ink process is time consuming
and there is a health hazard from loose stain powder in the
workplace. I think the color laser printers are the way to go but
they have been awfully expensive using the Zimmer toners and system.
Last price I heard was 31000 Euros for a Zimmer system.
Have you gotten a good gamut from your stains for CMYK?
A good magenta is hard to get. I think they use a gold oxide
colorant . The M is 5 times the price of the C and Y because of the
gold content. Some blacks use Ruthenium which is a platinum metal in
the periodic table, so they can be expensive too.
I have been looking at low cost desktop color laser printers. Some
are less than $800 (Printer plus needed supplies). If it is possible
to reload empty cartridges with ceramic toner I am interested in
getting one.
Right now I have an HP black and white laser printer that uses the
magnetic ink distribution method. Can it run your color toner?
I think it might not since the color inks are not magnetic. A
Brother or Samsung printer that use dye base inks would probably run
a single color.
I would like to get a sample preferably of the blue to try in a
single color printer.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Cao Guihong on thu 25 aug 05
Hi Fred,
Are you still working on the digital ceramic image transfer? we developed
many different ceramic toners for use in desktop colour or B/W laser
printers, you can use them at 550oC , 800oC and some even for 1200oC, the
decal printing work is just like your normal office printing, ceramists in
more than ten countries are using this system now, we can send you samples
if you still interested.
Best Regards,
Cao Guihong
Cao Guihong on fri 26 aug 05
Hi Fred,
1. Congraduation on your canon ink jet no clog ink, I gave up this method
research because of the printer head nozzle clog problem, the time costing
and stain layer too thin and some other problems.
The nozzle clog problem is the main problem which most people who using
this process having.
2. Yes, not too many people can afford the 31000 Euros, our system is at
less than one tenth of that (exclude kiln and computer), and we also
single colour toner cartridge.
3. We have several different sets colour toners, can be used at 550oC,
800oC and 1200oC, we also have the gold magenta, but gold colour can not
be used at high fired. We also have food safe toners. Some colour maybe
lighter because of the desktop colour laser printer using less toner to
print.
4. Some Minolta (QMS) ,Epson, Samsung latest desktop colour laser printers
are selling at about US$ 300. You can still switch back to your normal
office printing when you don't need digital ceramic printing just by
replace the toner cartridges.
5. Our black toners can be used in HP B/W laser printer, colour toners can
be used in colour laser printers.
Best Reagrds,
Cao Guihong
Fredrick Paget on fri 21 oct 05
At the Tile conference in Pomona CA, I passed out a write up on how
to do the Sticky Image method of making ceramic decals.
If there are many others who want a copy I will post it on the
internet or if it is just a few I will send it as an attachment on
request, Drop me a line.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Fredrick Paget on sat 22 oct 05
>At the Tile conference in Pomona CA, I passed out a write up on how
>to do the Sticky Image method of making ceramic decals.
>
>I
Because the file got so big I decided to put it up on the web, Go to
http://homepage.mac.com/fredrick/FileSharing1.html
--
From Fred &Nan Paget,
No Tengo Rancho,
Marin County,
California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Tzadi Turrou on sat 22 oct 05
I would appreciate receiving a copy--"Sticky Image" method? Not sure of
what this could be, but I've wanted to put some photographic images on
clay--I make tiles. Thanks! Tzadi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:20 PM
Subject: Photographic images on clay
> At the Tile conference in Pomona CA, I passed out a write up on how
> to do the Sticky Image method of making ceramic decals.
>
> If there are many others who want a copy I will post it on the
> internet or if it is just a few I will send it as an attachment on
> request, Drop me a line.
> --
> From Fred Paget,
> Marin County, CA, USA
> fredrick@well.com
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
VERA ROMODA on sun 23 oct 05
I would appreciate receiving a copy--"Sticky Image" method?
too
Thanks Vera
Tzadi Turrou wrote:
I would appreciate receiving a copy--"Sticky Image" method? Not sure of
what this could be, but I've wanted to put some photographic images on
clay--I make tiles. Thanks! Tzadi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:20 PM
Subject: Photographic images on clay
> At the Tile conference in Pomona CA, I passed out a write up on how
> to do the Sticky Image method of making ceramic decals.
>
> If there are many others who want a copy I will post it on the
> internet or if it is just a few I will send it as an attachment on
> request, Drop me a line.
> --
> From Fred Paget,
> Marin County, CA, USA
> fredrick@well.com
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Fredrick Paget on thu 2 mar 06
I have been doing further experiments with the "sticky ink" inkjet
method of making decals and I have found that the regular ink in the
ink jet printer works about as well as the special ink I have been
making for this process.
I will put the details on my homepage.
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
http://homepage.mac.com/fredrick/FileSharing1.html
Charter Member Potters Council
judypicard on thu 11 may 06
I did not see any mention of this on your home page. Did I miss it?
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Fredrick Paget wrote:
>
> I have been doing further experiments with the "sticky ink" inkjet
> method of making decals and I have found that the regular ink in the
> ink jet printer works about as well as the special ink I have been
> making for this process.
> I will put the details on my homepage.
>
> --
Fredrick Paget on thu 11 may 06
>I did not see any mention of this on your home page. Did I miss it?
>
>--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Fredrick Paget wrote:
>>
>> I have been doing further experiments with the "sticky ink" inkjet
>> method of making decals and I have found that the regular ink in the
>> ink jet printer works about as well as the special ink I have been
>> making for this process.
>> I will put the details on my homepage.
>>
> > --
I posted a revision last Tuesday. Indeed I did a little work using a
bottle of yellow regular dye ink to refill the cartridge but decided
I like my special ink better.Regular ink worked after a fashion but
drys too fast. Maybe you could brew something up once you understand
the principle such as adding humecticants to the regular ink?
--
From Fred Paget,
Marin County, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
| |
|
