Jeff Lawrence on sun 4 jun 00
Hello,
My recent factory visit bore more fruit than another debate on clayart -- a
very cool tool, for drilling neat holes in clay, regardless of how wet the
clay is.
Take a thin-wall tube (available from better hardware stores in diameters up
to about 1/2 inch) and make it into a very coarse hole saw.
Without bending the tube, cut six regularly spaced v-shaped notches in the
end, angled enough so that the notches be twice as deep as the clay
thickness you'll be drilling. Sand off any burrs and go to town. When you
drill the hole, the clay disk you drilled out stays caught between the
"teeth" but can be grabbed and removed by the edges accessible through the
notches.
Jeff Lawrence ph. 505-753-5913
Sun Dagger Design fx. 505-753-8074
18496 US HWY 285/84 jml@sundagger.com
Espanola, NM 87532 www.sundagger.com
Paul Lewing on tue 6 jun 00
Jeff,
Here's an even easier hole punch tool. Get some spent rifle cartridges,
the kind that are wider at the back and necked down for the front 1/2"
or so. Cut the back off with a hacksaw and grind off the burrs. Put
one finger inside where you want to punch the hole, and twist the
cartridge through till it touches your finger. You can punch holes all
day and the clay just falls out the back. It's really easy to find .300
caliber or .270, but they come as small as .220 or as large as .450.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Donald Burroughs on wed 7 jun 00
Jeff and Paul
Here is an even easier hole punch tool. Purchase some copper pipe (used
for plumbing) which comes in various diameters. Cut with a pipe cutter
about 10.00C$ for decent one. This eliminates the burrs Paul spoke of.
Works just the same as Jeff's idea with the clay being caught in the bore of
the pipe. In addition one could add a simple plunger to one end of the pipe
to extact the wet clay or simply let it dry and shrink then shake out the
plunged material.
Donald Burroughs donaldo@autobahn.mb.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Paul Lewing
Sent: June 6, 2000 11:27 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Cool tool
Jeff,
Here's an even easier hole punch tool. Get some spent rifle cartridges,
the kind that are wider at the back and necked down for the front 1/2"
or so. Cut the back off with a hacksaw and grind off the burrs. Put
one finger inside where you want to punch the hole, and twist the
cartridge through till it touches your finger. You can punch holes all
day and the clay just falls out the back. It's really easy to find .300
caliber or .270, but they come as small as .220 or as large as .450.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
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Tommy Humphries on sat 10 jun 00
The cheapest and best hole tool that I have found (and they come in asst.
sizes too) are soda straws. The thin walls cut cleanly through even freshly
thrown pots (with a little water as lube) and some are strong enough to
punch through almost leather hard clay. To remove the clay plug, just
squeeze the straw and force the plug out, then straighten the end and punch
another. If the end gets buggered up then just cut it off with some
scissors! ;^)
Tommy Humphries
"`You know, it's at times like this, that I really wish I'd listened to what
my mother told me when I was young.'
`Why, what did she tell you?'
`I don't know, I didn't listen.'"
(Douglas Adams
Don Hunt on wed 20 dec 00
When I glaze a mug using a different glaze inside than outside, I always
disliked having the glaze line around the outside uneven where the two
glazes meet. While watching an instructor glazing at the UCSD craft
center (thanks Dan) I noticed he
was using a small round level. I think they call them bullseye levels.
Judging by the picture on the package I think they mostly use them for
leveling pool tables.
Morris, Marlene F. on thu 21 dec 00
Did he put the level on the bottom of the cup when he did the outside dip?
Marlene
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hunt [mailto:dj-hunt@HOME.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:34 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: cool tool
When I glaze a mug using a different glaze inside than outside, I always
disliked having the glaze line around the outside uneven where the two
glazes meet. While watching an instructor glazing at the UCSD craft
center (thanks Dan) I noticed he
was using a small round level. I think they call them bullseye levels.
Judging by the picture on the package I think they mostly use them for
leveling pool tables.
____________________________________________________________________________
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Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Don Hunt on thu 21 dec 00
Yes, to get a clean line when dipping lip first.
"Morris, Marlene F." wrote:
> Did he put the level on the bottom of the cup when he did the outside dip?
>
> Marlene
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Hunt [mailto:dj-hunt@HOME.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:34 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: cool tool
>
> When I glaze a mug using a different glaze inside than outside, I always
> disliked having the glaze line around the outside uneven where the two
> glazes meet. While watching an instructor glazing at the UCSD craft
> center (thanks Dan) I noticed he
> was using a small round level. I think they call them bullseye levels.
> Judging by the picture on the package I think they mostly use them for
> leveling pool tables.
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Martin Howard on thu 21 dec 00
These bulls eyes levels are a must IMHO for every pottery.
I use them for assisting levelling ware on a chuck on the wheel;
For checking that the pot is sits level after turning;
For dipping ware in slip and glaze so that the line is always level;
No doubt there are many other uses, but the above are important in most
studios and most important, they are important to our purchasers.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
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