Claire Hasselbeck on mon 5 jun 00
What wax works best (without peeling) to use over a glazed, bisqued pot
in order to block out a design and then apply a second glaze over the
top? We've been having trouble with this process.
Anji Henderson on tue 6 jun 00
If i understand what you are saying
<> second glaze over the
> top? >>
Try Latex resist instead of wax.. Then you can remove
the latex cleanly..
Anji
--- Claire Hasselbeck wrote:
> What wax works best (without peeling) to use over a
> glazed, bisqued pot
> in order to block out a design and then apply a
> second glaze over the
> top? We've been having trouble with this process.
>
>
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JIMV062@AOL.COM on tue 6 jun 00
Claire, what happens if the latex resist is left on for firing.. Won't it
juut burn off.. I hae always removed it.. because the instructions tell us to
remove it... but -- what if we didnt?? Does anyone know what happens?
Larry Phillips on tue 6 jun 00
Cindy Strnad wrote:
>
> I haven't tried it, but I understand people use liquid latex for this.
Wonderful stuff. At our community center studio, we don't have provision
for dipping bottoms, so it's all painted on, and the liquid latex peels
off easily, leaving a pristine surface.
> I've never heard of anyone leaving the latex on during firing, though,
> and I would expect it, during removal, to disrupt any underlying glaze
> it was applied over.
I always lift it off, but I know people who have left it on, with good
results. Lifting it off a dry glaze is surprisingly successful. I have
lifted it off glaze that's been drying for about 30 minutes, without
lifting even a little of the underlying glaze. Of course, all glazes are
different, and it's worth experimenting on a piece of lesser quality
(you may have to borrow one from me).
The other caveat is that it's a lot like using masking tape on a paint
job. If you lift it off after the top glaze is fully dry, you might
'chip' the glaze edges. If it's too wet, you could smear the edges or
cause splatters.
My advice would be to pick up a bottle and play with it. I like it a LOT
better than wax.
--
Hukt on fonix werkt fer me!
http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
KLeSueur@AOL.COM on tue 6 jun 00
In a message dated 6/6/00 1:03:26 PM, clairemac@EROLS.COM writes:
<< What wax works best (without peeling) to use over a glazed, bisqued pot
in order to block out a design and then apply a second glaze over the
top? We've been having trouble with this process.
>>
Normally I use hot wax for this procedure. but I've also had good luck with
green liquid wax from Minnesota Clay. It's best to put it on let it dry for a
few minutes and immediately put on the second glaze.
Kathi LeSueur
Ann Arbor, MI
LFOXPASS@AOL.COM on tue 6 jun 00
Claire,
We've had very good results with Axner's liquid water-based wax for resisting
one glaze over another. The second glaze won't sheet off the wax very well if
the glaze is too thick. We also add food color to the wax to help us see it a
little better.
For many applications hot parrafin wax also works fine. Glazes with dusty
surfaces may cause hot wax to peel and curl. That is a glaze problem to be
solved with a binder. But for detail work the liquid wax is better. Allow 30
minutes or so drying time before applying the second glaze.
Good Luck!
Jim Larkin
Fox Pass Pottery
Hot Springs, Arkansas
761901
lfoxpass@aol.com
Cindy Strnad on tue 6 jun 00
Claire,
I haven't tried it, but I understand people use liquid latex for this. I've
never heard of anyone leaving the latex on during firing, though, and I
would expect it, during removal, to disrupt any underlying glaze it was
applied over.
H. L. Rogers on wed 7 jun 00
The liquid latex works well if you are careful when you remove it.
It's usually very easy to peel off - just get one corner started and
it comes off in one piece. If the glaze underneath is fairly hard,
you shouldn't have any trouble.
Joyce R.
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