Lizacat29@AOL.COM on tue 13 jun 00
I had read about using Mason stains like watercolor and painting designs
directly on bisque. I did this and then glazed over it with a clear glaze on
cone 6 stoneware bisque. It was a disaster...the glaze separated into
droplets and made lumpy blobs on my pots on the ones where nearly all the pot
was covered with the stain. On the ones where I had just a little stain, the
glaze just slid off the stain and the stain kind of puffed up and was blobby.
What did I do wrong?
Marcia Selsor on wed 14 jun 00
Dear Liza,
To use Mason Stains you need to put it into a carrier like a slip or a
frit. For example,
to use mason stains on majolica use a combination of one part stain to
three parts frit or gerstley borate. Stains are fritted (fired high and
pulverized) and do not flux on their own. They can create a barrier
between a glaze and a clay body -sort of like a dirty surface. If you
mix the stains with a flux you will be able to use a "wash".
Good luck,
Marcia Selsor in Montana
Lizacat29@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I had read about using Mason stains like watercolor and painting designs
> directly on bisque. I did this and then glazed over it with a clear glaze on
> cone 6 stoneware bisque. It was a disaster...the glaze separated into
> droplets and made lumpy blobs on my pots on the ones where nearly all the pot
> was covered with the stain. On the ones where I had just a little stain, the
> glaze just slid off the stain and the stain kind of puffed up and was blobby.
> What did I do wrong?
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
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Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/spain99.html
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/selsor/welcome.html
Wade Blocker on wed 14 jun 00
----------
> From: Lizacat29@AOL.COM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Beginner glaze question
> Date: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 6:17 PM
>
> I had read about using Mason stains like watercolor and painting designs
> directly on bisque. I did this and then glazed over it with a clear
glaze on
> cone 6 stoneware bisque. It was a disaster...the glaze separated into
> droplets and made lumpy blobs on my pots on the ones where nearly all the
pot
> was covered with the stain. On the ones where I had just a little stain,
the
> glaze just slid off the stain and the stain kind of puffed up and was
blobby.
> What did I do wrong?
>
>
Perhaps you are confusing underglaze colors with stains. Underglazes are
used for painting on bisque - then glazed - therefore the name under glaze.
Use Mason stains to color your glazes, or mix them with a frit to paint on
top of the glaze. Mia in hot ABQ
Coolpots@AOL.COM on wed 14 jun 00
In a message dated 6/13/2000 7:12:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Lizacat29@AOL.COM writes:
<< I had read about using Mason stains like watercolor and painting designs
directly on bisque. I did this and then glazed over it with a clear glaze on
cone 6 stoneware bisque. It was a disaster...the glaze separated into
droplets and made lumpy blobs on my pots on the ones where nearly all the pot
was covered with the stain. On the ones where I had just a little stain, the
glaze just slid off the stain and the stain kind of puffed up and was blobby.
What did I do wrong?
>>
You might have more success if you dip your bisque pots first in a white or
clear glaze. Then paint over the base glaze and fire. I got even better
results when I purchased the white dry mix from Laguna. The colors were much
better. When you paint the stain/water mixture on top of the base glaze, it
fuzes right into the base glaze. It took me a few tests before I could tell
how much stain to put with how much water but I have it down now after three
firings. It doesn't take much stain. Good luck!
Vicki from Cool, CALIF.
Coolpots@AOL.COM on wed 14 jun 00
I don't know what cone you are firing to but the Mason Stains shouldn't be
fired over cone 5. They can be fired lower also.
Vicki
Ray Aldridge on thu 15 jun 00
At 08:58 PM 6/14/00 EDT, you wrote:
>I don't know what cone you are firing to but the Mason Stains shouldn't be
>fired over cone 5.
I don't think this is true, at least for many stains. I've used some
stains in C10 salt firing with good results, and all my C8 oxidation slips
and glazes are colored with stains.
Ray
Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
http://www.goodpots.com
Paul Lewing on thu 15 jun 00
Coolpots@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I don't know what cone you are firing to but the Mason Stains shouldn't be
> fired over cone 5. They can be fired lower also.
Sorry, Vicki, but that's not true. There are a very few that will not
go to high temperature, but most will, if you fire in oxidation. Many
of them are destroyed by reduction, and the subtlety of color of a lot
of them is lost in reduction. For instance, most of the shades of blue
and green, the ones with cobalt or chrome, will just all come out the
same color of blue or green.
In response to the original question about the stains making the glaze
over them crawl off, the problem is the particle size of the stains
themselves. They tend to be ground much finer than the raw coloring
oxides. This clogs all the pores in the bisque, which means the glaze
cannot adhere properly over them. The solution to this and the problem
of some of them being too refractory is to mix the stain with the glaze
you're going to put over it, maybe half and half. You essentially make
a stain-saturated glaze and brush that on. Since you can apply that
much thicker than just the stain alone, you still get plenty of colorant
on there. And the glaze will adhere to itself quite nicely.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
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