Eydie DeVincenzi on wed 14 jun 00
Clayarters:
As some of you know I am a handbuilder and work with nerikome (colored
clay) -- pretty much exclusively. [Those of you who have never tried it,=
I
highly recommend Vince's class in colored clays - his herringbone pattern=
will either intrigue you or intimidate you].
I did a Raku firing on Friday and to my amazement, some of my colors came=
through very nicely (through a clear glaze that was concocted for me). =
Where there was no glaze of course, I got beautiful black from reduction.=
=
I am now hooked on the idea of combining these two processes. =
Has anyone else done this? Does anyone have a Raku translucent clear gla=
ze
they are willing to share? =
As soon as I can get these pieces photographed, I will get them up on the=
Web for people to see.
Eydie DeVincenzi
e_devincenzi@compuserve.com =
Anji Henderson on wed 14 jun 00
I would like to second this ....
The pieces did come out very nice... Maybe dear Eydie
would like to trade the little bottle for something..
: )
Her pieces are just a wonderment to see...
Ahhh and Eydie I sent you a very nice clear crackle..
and I think that Ramones glaze is actually clear...
Anji
--- Eydie DeVincenzi
wrote:
> Clayarters:
>
> As some of you know I am a handbuilder and work with
> nerikome (colored
> clay) -- pretty much exclusively. [Those of you who
> have never tried it, I
> highly recommend Vince's class in colored clays -
> his herringbone pattern
> will either intrigue you or intimidate you].
>
> I did a Raku firing on Friday and to my amazement,
> some of my colors came
> through very nicely (through a clear glaze that was
> concocted for me).
> Where there was no glaze of course, I got beautiful
> black from reduction.
> I am now hooked on the idea of combining these two
> processes.
>
> Has anyone else done this? Does anyone have a Raku
> translucent clear glaze
> they are willing to share?
>
> As soon as I can get these pieces photographed, I
> will get them up on the
> Web for people to see.
>
> Eydie DeVincenzi
> e_devincenzi@compuserve.com
>
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James Bledsoe on thu 20 jul 00
> >I am now ready to do a serious raku firing. I have a whole shelf full of
> >pieces ready to be glazed. Does anyone have a favorite CLEAR glaze for
> >raku that is very clear (and no crackle) when applied thinny?
No Crackle? the crackle is what they were after all those years ago
under the pepper tree moving hot pots from the kiln to the seal pond.
When a pot was dropped into the leaves, it started a fire and Paul Soldner
placed a bucket, that happened to be laying near by, over the pot to smother
the flames. That is how we have come to have this curious ritual Raku
The shock of removing a glowing red pot covered in wet runny glass from
that hot and sunny room and thrusting it into some cold dark and sooty . .
.well . . . we are all lucky that crackle is all that happens.
That the thing doesn't just fall to pieces and leave us with rubble is a
wonder that ranks with rainbows and how ants know how to be ants.
I have been pulling pot from the light and thrusting them into the dark
since the Seventies when i was in high school and don't recall ever see a
glaze that didn't fracture. But that does not mean that it can't happen.
One way to possible avoid the crackle might be to construct a kiln that
could be sealed and then do the reduction in the kiln. This would still
pull the deep reduction but would lessen the thermal shock that makes the
crackle.
Does any body recall a non crackled finish that has endured the riggers of
Raku?
Jim in Claremont
Eydie DeVincenzi on thu 20 jul 00
Clayarters:
As many of you know, I am a novice potter/sculpture/whatever, working
exclusively in handbuilding techniques and doing nerikome (aka neriage,
colored clay). I have been looking for a low fire alternative to cone 6=
(for me at this point in my life, there is too much "overhead" with high
fire -- the kiln, the loss of colors, the glazes, etc.). =
I have tripped over the idea of Raku and nerikome. I really love the loo=
k
and feel of the reduction black on cone 6 porcelein. So I ran some tests=
. =
I used a generic clear raku glaze over the portions of the pot where I
wanted my colored patterns to show through, leaving the rest of the pot
naked. Wow! Even with a cone 6 porcelin, no crackle happened -- this is=
good - and I was able to see my colored patterns.
I am now ready to do a serious raku firing. I have a whole shelf full of=
pieces ready to be glazed. Does anyone have a favorite CLEAR glaze for
raku that is very clear (and no crackle) when applied thinny? =
Second request: I am looking to build [my first] raku kiln and was told
that I should look for retired hi fire kilns that I can convert. Anyone=
have one of these in their storage shed? Especially interested in a uni=
t
that I could pick up on myself. So besides my howm of of Maryland, I can=
travel to DC, Virginia, Delaware, Philadelphia, North Carolina.
[By the way, if nerikome interests you, I can strongly recommend Vince's
class on colored clay. I was awed by the detail in his work and the
meticulousness of his process... and I learned so-o-o much from his
weeklong class]
Eydie DeVincenzi
Silver Spring, Maryland, USA
amy parker on thu 20 jul 00
>I am now ready to do a serious raku firing. I have a whole shelf full of
>pieces ready to be glazed. Does anyone have a favorite CLEAR glaze for
>raku that is very clear (and no crackle) when applied thinny?
Eydie - Have you thought about trying just a plain old low-fire commercial
clear cone 06-04 glaze? The colored ones work great in Raku with, say, white
crackle for contrast, so I would think clear would too. Mayco's are rated to
06 but go to cone 6, so they must be pretty flexible!
The fun of raku - buy a small jar & try it on just one piece - no need to
screw up a whole load like in a larger kiln!
Amy, pondering this "local" thing - had someone tell me that he's been in
Atlanta 10 years now so that makes him a local - I guess he has been here
longer than most of our population, but I'm a second generation Native
Atlantan, with 3rd gen. kids
amy parker Lithonia, GA
amyp@sd-software.com
Bruce Girrell on fri 21 jul 00
>Does any body recall a non crackled finish that has endured the rigors of
>Raku?
When I use Tom Buck's Red Lustre #8 glaze
(http://www.digitalfire.com/education/glaze/buckraku.htm) on Great Lakes
Clay fine raku body I get a very smooth, apparently uncrazed finish[1]. On
close examination you can see a fine crackle mesh[2], but the crackle is for
all practical purposes invisible. It is fine enough that it does not take up
carbon from the post-fire reduction.
I have found that I like the results better when I really melt this glaze.
Yes, it works at ^06 but I think it's better at ^04 or maybe even hotter. I
don't have any cones between ^04 and ^5, so I can't say just how high I do
take it. It will develop lots of tiny bubbles when you finally go too far.
Bruce Girrell in cool "keep your *^$!%# 61 degrees mel, it's _July_!"
northern Michigan
[1]Recently, I tried removing the colorants and using the base for other
colors and as a clear glaze. It works well that way, though when using Mason
stains as colorants, the finish goes from gloss to satin, depending on how
much stain is used.
[2]Another way to expose the crackle is to dunk the fired pot into a glaze
bucket again. The glaze will adhere more thickly near the cracks. As the
glaze coat dries you can see the crackle clearly with the unaided eye.
Inking would work too, but I think
James Bledsoe on mon 24 jul 00
Thanks Eydie
>
What I am loving about Raku is its flexibility, speed, and simplicity. I
can pull the pot when I want. I can get different effects by using
different reduction material. I can have crackle or no-crackle. And as if
that isn't enough, I can take my kiln anywhere that will have me!
>
No-Crackle? Looking deeper back into this thread the question was "how do
i get no-crackle"
Could you share a no-crackle glaze with us?
Jim in Claremont
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