mel jacobson on wed 28 jun 00
nice firing.
from start to finish 5 hours and 15 minutes.
we started the gas at about 1700 or so.
had a cone 10 in the auto shut off and she popped
just perfect.
left it open for about 10 minutes to clear.
we will start it up about 8 tonight to make sure we get
red.
nice even reduction.
about and inch out of each spy port.
mel
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
written from the farm in wisconsin
mel jacobson on thu 29 jun 00
thanks to nils lou and his early research.
he throws me projects that we can do at
hay creek. we like things that we can do
with a good gang of potters around....sorta
keep things from going B.S. you know,`barbara striesand`
but, we think we have a keep here...but, time will tell...
just like the breakdown on the gas/salt kiln after 62 firings.
gotta look at the long term.
mel
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
written from the farm in wisconsin
Liz Gowen on mon 3 jul 00
>
>gas/electric kiln.
>as taught to me by nils lou.
Mel and all, have Nils book on order. I am also interested in this
kiln but have a question regarding the gas tank. My kiln is in a
heated studio with good ventilation ( whole house fan for the studio
alone). I assume it would be ok in the warmer weather to bring a
tank of propane in but in winter, I've been told, the cold outside
to warm inside, can cause the tank to explode. From your
description it sounds like the clamp will hold the gas pressure so
the tank could be left outside and the hose fed through a hole in
the wall or should it be (copper) pipe to prevent leaks from the
hose? then the hose attached to it. ( I am not really comfortable
with gas since the 1st gas kiln I tried to light blew up), but have
used a gas grill without incident. The kiln had a gas pocket
apparently. I am trying to find a place to learn to fire gas kilns
and get a bit more comfortable with it. I am hoping Nils book will
be of help as well. Suggestions appreciated.
Liz Gowen
mel jacobson on mon 3 jul 00
i have had some questions and thought i should
go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
gas/electric kiln.
as taught to me by nils lou.
take one electric kiln.
take it all apart...clean it very well.
brush out all the debris, and wash it.
yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
hard.
drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
lid of the kiln.
order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
hang them to dry.
wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
let it dry.
install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
make them shine.
spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
it is all covered....well.
dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
out the coils into the electrical.
buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
we installed a regulator.
load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
we fired to cone 10.
about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
turn off gas.
button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
reds in the kiln.
open kiln.
nice red, shino, good body color.
typical stoneware reduction firing.
and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
maybe two hours second day.
mel
perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
will not work. buy new.
i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
soft brick surface to coat with itc.
we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
rim of the kiln...want that tight.
we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
the main electric cable of the kiln.
FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
David Woodin on tue 4 jul 00
The kiln discribed sounds like a great kiln. My question is what is the
advantage of the use of electricity up to 1780F? Can't complete reliance on
gas do the same thing? Is it because you consider it easier to control an
electric kiln?
David
Nils Lou on tue 4 jul 00
Mel, you have described this very well. I am relieved that your mind is
sharp as ever in spite of your advanced age. My only suggestion is that
with my firing I start the flame and reduction a little
earlier--1650F.rather than 1750F. To my mind this insures the reds. Nils
On Mon, 3 Jul 2000, mel jacobson wrote:
> i have had some questions and thought i should
> go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
>
> gas/electric kiln.
> as taught to me by nils lou.
> take one electric kiln.
> take it all apart...clean it very well.
>
> brush out all the debris, and wash it.
> yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
> hard.
> drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
> lid of the kiln.
>
> order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
>
> clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
>
> coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
> follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
>
> hang them to dry.
>
> wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
> spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
> the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
>
> let it dry.
>
> install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
> re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
>
> make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
> make them shine.
>
> spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
> it is all covered....well.
>
> dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
>
> i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
> let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
> coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
> out the coils into the electrical.
>
> buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
> connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
> connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
> we installed a regulator.
>
> load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
>
> fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
>
> turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
> kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
>
> place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
> you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
> the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
>
> we fired to cone 10.
> about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
> turn off gas.
> button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
> we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
> reds in the kiln.
>
> open kiln.
> nice red, shino, good body color.
>
> typical stoneware reduction firing.
> and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
> maybe two hours second day.
> mel
> perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
>
> for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
> will not work. buy new.
>
> i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
> used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
> soft brick surface to coat with itc.
>
> we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
> rim of the kiln...want that tight.
>
> we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
> you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
> but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
> you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
>
> we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
> just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
> the main electric cable of the kiln.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
>
Hank Murrow on tue 4 jul 00
>Mel and all, have Nils book on order. I am also interested in this
>kiln but have a question regarding the gas tank. My kiln is in a
>heated studio with good ventilation ( whole house fan for the studio
>alone). I assume it would be ok in the warmer weather to bring a
>tank of propane in but in winter, I've been told, the cold outside
>to warm inside, can cause the tank to explode. From your
>description it sounds like the clamp will hold the gas pressure so
>the tank could be left outside and the hose fed through a hole in
>the wall or should it be (copper) pipe to prevent leaks from the
>hose? then the hose attached to it. ( I am not really comfortable
>with gas since the 1st gas kiln I tried to light blew up), but have
>used a gas grill without incident. The kiln had a gas pocket
>apparently. I am trying to find a place to learn to fire gas kilns
>and get a bit more comfortable with it. I am hoping Nils book will
>be of help as well. Suggestions appreciated.
> Liz Gowen
>
Dear Liz; That first gas kiln would not have 'popped' if the air shutter
had been closed before you lit the burner, as gas alone will not 'explode'.
It's the roughly seven to one mix (stoichiometric) of air to gas which is
explosive. So just close your air shutter before you turn on the gas, and
all will be well. Users of propane should know that propane is heavier than
air (unlike natural gas); so there should never be any enclosed low spots
where fuel could build up to dangerous levels. I remember that the glass
studio at Penland had a trough running down the length of the building and
out to the exterior to provide 'drainage'. Please feel free to e-mail
questions, as a safe operation does wonders for your confidence. Thanks for
the query, Hank in Eugene
tgschs10 on thu 6 jul 00
David,
I do the electric firing overnight and hold the kiln at 1650 until I turn on
the gas in the morning. I am comfortable going to bed with the electric
firing but wouldn't be with gas.
Tom Sawyer
tgschs10@msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Woodin"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 5:56 AM
Subject: Gas/electric
> The kiln discribed sounds like a great kiln. My question is what is the
> advantage of the use of electricity up to 1780F? Can't complete reliance
on
> gas do the same thing? Is it because you consider it easier to control an
> electric kiln?
> David
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
mel jacobson on thu 2 nov 00
just got a note from roger bourland.
he did not get reduction in his gas/electric.
he has used a full sized kiln...and his
burner, i believe is too small.
for those of you that are doing this...get the
biggest bunsen you can find.
i use the frey high temp burner 96585201
page673 in the catalog.
in fact to make a small pipe burner with stuff from the hardware
store would be just fine.
that is what we used at vince's Tennessee studio for the small
gas electric.
you have to get enough gas in the kiln to get back pressure.
mel
i will put a plan for a simple burner on my webpage.
clayart space.
FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
Pam Duncan on fri 3 nov 00
Mel,
I was wondering what the inside dimensions of the kiln you converted to dual
fuel are? I purchased a small used Paragon electric last summer and have
set it aside to convert to dual fuel as my next project. I have not fired a
gas reduction kiln before, but thought that this route(dual fuel) might be
the best option for use in suburbia. I understand the area around the kiln
being "hotter" than just an electric firing, but how much hotter should we
expect things to get? I plan on setting this up in the garage, would that
work? Approximately how much propane did a firing use, and about the
"fire-down" at 1700 degrees...would you go into a little more detail? This
is very encouraging, but this project will be on the planning table until
spring....can't wait.
Pam in Cincinnati
>
>
>just got a note from roger bourland.
>he did not get reduction in his gas/electric.
>
>he has used a full sized kiln...and his
>burner, i believe is too small.
>you have to get enough gas in the kiln to get back pressure.
>mel
>
>i will put a plan for a simple burner on my webpage.
>clayart space.
>
>
>FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
>http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________
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mel jacobson on fri 3 nov 00
i am sure that any size electric kiln will work.
the one we have is a typical hex electric...sort of the size
of a skutt 181. the old model.
my warnings are based on the kiln going to cone 10...the outside
of the kiln gets a bit hotter.
as we are really working on a theory here, rather than a perfect
plan, each potter will have to be aware of things...heat, gas, safety.
the amount of gas used is minimal. a small burner i doubt will
be more than 10,000 btu's. and in a few hours not much gas is
burned. a 25 pound bbq burner tank will last many firings.
at the farm we just put a piece of metal on the wooden wall
behind the kiln...worked like a reflector. that was all that was
needed. we were being extra careful...also wrapped the 220
cord and the rubber hose. (just to be sure.)
there is no question in my mind that the gas input really kicks
these small kilns in the butt....they speed up a great deal with
the addition of gas. and slow cooling is important, as they
drop heat like crazy...
we need a great deal of new information. the more of you that
work on this project, the more info we will get back.
roger bourland is very excited about his kiln...and he has some
gas burner adjustment, but he will get it. this is critical research.
this kiln could change the lives of many potters.
i keep thinking of using the same kiln for bisque, cone 6 electric,
and cone 10 gas/reduction. i am still of the opion that if the
itc 213 is applied correctly to the elements, and the itc 100 is
sprayed over the entire inside...well, maybe 400 firings.
but, we have to see. predictions are like elections...mean nothing
at all, proof is what is needed.
safe and simple. but, man do we need some history and
opinions from clayarters.
we are going to build one of these kilns next saturday in columbus.
we are in hopes of doing a good video of the process and send
it back to itc and see if they can use it. any of you attending the
workshop, and have a video camera, well, bring it along.
mel
FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
Wesley C. Rolley on fri 3 nov 00
Lee, I am very interested in that approach. I have seen something like it
at a kama where they produced kutani-yaki style wares. I have just gotten
a verbal agreement from my town building department to go ahead with the
gas/electric setup, but this could be a cheaper solution. Since I have my
electric kiln in a 3-car garage with a 20+ ft. ceiling, ventilation should
not be a problem .
It must be fantastic to work where you do. I still cherish a plate of
Shimaoka-san's that I purchased in Mashiko in 1975.
Wes Rolley
Wes Rolley
"Happiness is to be fully engaged in the activity that you believe in and,
if you are very good at it, well that's a bonus." -- Henry Moore
http://www.refpub.com
Lee Love on sat 4 nov 00
Here in Japan, they use a charcol box underneath the electric kiln to induce
reduction. I've seen these kilns and the principle seems pretty straight
forward. I'll keep my eyes open and take notes.
Also, Mel mentioned a bigger burner creating more backpressure.
Could it also be possibe that the flue hole is a bit too large? Could it
be dampered to creat more back pressure? I mean, if you didn't have an
exhaust hole, wouldn't backpressure be easy to create with a very small
burner?
--
Lee Love
Mashiko JAPAN Ikiru@kami.com
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tgschs10 on sun 5 nov 00
Mel,
You wrote:
>he has used a full sized kiln...and his
>burner, i believe is too small.
>you have to get enough gas in the kiln to get back pressure.
>mel
I have a large gas/electric 36 cubic feet made by Ferris Delkic with burners
installed by Nils. In talking with several persons including these two, I
have been left with the idea that very small burners might be appropriate [I
have larger ones]. When you mention back pressure, couldn't this be achieved
by blocking down on the outlet rather than by increasing burner size? In
other words aren't there two options (1) larger burners (2) smaller outlet?
Tom Sawyer
tgschs10@msn.com
Hank Murrow on sun 5 nov 00
I have a large gas/electric 36 cubic feet made by Ferris Delkic with burners
>installed by Nils. In talking with several persons including these two, I
>have been left with the idea that very small burners might be appropriate [I
>have larger ones]. When you mention back pressure, couldn't this be achieved
>by blocking down on the outlet rather than by increasing burner size? In
>other words aren't there two options (1) larger burners (2) smaller outlet?
>Tom Sawyer
>tgschs10@msn.com
Very Nice Observation Tom,
Hank in Eugene
mel jacobson on tue 8 may 01
i have had several reports this week from folks working
with the new gas/electric kilns.
they are very happy people...saw downloads of pots...very
nice. rich reduction. typical reduction color and texture.
they are doing it.
this pleases me a great deal.
keep the reports coming in....your research is vital.
mel
=66rom the farm in wisconsin
http://www.pclink.com/melpots
mel jacobson on tue 15 jan 02
itc repeat.
i have had some questions and thought i should
go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
gas/electric kiln.
as taught to me by nils lou.
take one electric kiln.
take it all apart...clean it very well.
brush out all the debris, and wash it.
yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
hard.
drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
lid of the kiln.
order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
hang them to dry.
wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
let it dry.
install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
make them shine.
spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
it is all covered....well.
dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
out the coils into the electrical.
buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
we installed a regulator.
load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
we fired to cone 10.
about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
turn off gas.
button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
reds in the kiln.
open kiln.
nice red, shino, good body color.
typical stoneware reduction firing.
and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
maybe two hours second day.
mel
perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
will not work. buy new.
i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
soft brick surface to coat with itc.
we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
rim of the kiln...want that tight.
we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
the main electric cable of the kiln.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
ROGER CLARK on wed 16 jan 02
Hi,
Do you use the electric along with the gas after you reach 1750 degrees and
do you use the electric or gas again when the temp. goes back down to 1750
after you've reached cone 10? I'm new to this gas firing and am wanting a
gas kiln. I've had an electric kiln for sale, but it would be great to turn
it into a gas kiln!
Thanks,
Tammy Clark
----- Original Message -----
From: mel jacobson
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: gas/electric
> itc repeat.
>
> i have had some questions and thought i should
> go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
>
> gas/electric kiln.
> as taught to me by nils lou.
> take one electric kiln.
> take it all apart...clean it very well.
>
> brush out all the debris, and wash it.
> yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
> hard.
> drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
> lid of the kiln.
>
> order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
>
> clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
>
> coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
> follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and
narrow.
>
> hang them to dry.
>
> wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
> spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
> the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
>
> let it dry.
>
> install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
> re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
>
> make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
> make them shine.
>
> spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
> it is all covered....well.
>
> dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
>
> i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
> let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
> coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
> out the coils into the electrical.
>
> buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
> connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
> connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
> we installed a regulator.
>
> load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
>
> fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
>
> turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
> kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
>
> place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
> you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
> the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
>
> we fired to cone 10.
> about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
> turn off gas.
> button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
> we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
> reds in the kiln.
>
> open kiln.
> nice red, shino, good body color.
>
> typical stoneware reduction firing.
> and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
> maybe two hours second day.
> mel
> perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
>
> for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
> will not work. buy new.
>
> i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
> used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
> soft brick surface to coat with itc.
>
> we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
> rim of the kiln...want that tight.
>
> we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
> you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
> but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
> you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
>
> we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
> just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
> the main electric cable of the kiln.
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> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
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> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
mel jacobson on thu 14 nov 02
lily, not a soul would argue with you.
and, your post was a delight.
intent is everything. what do you intend?
what is your pottery going to become?
fire and heat works. any fire any heat.
it melts the surface of the pot, makes
the pot permanent.
gas, oil, wood, cow chips, old newspapers, sawdust.
they are, and can be used for kiln fuel.
all are dirty. take work and time. knowledge
is critical. it takes a great deal of effort to fire
a fuel kiln.
electricity. it works, and works well.
once installed, a very clean, easy, static
way to fire. results can be copied or duplicated.
a minimum of venting is necessary.
new glazes are coming fast, great glazes are being
shared. clayart is leading that crusade in the world.
electric fuel is always available, and of course, the pollution is someplace
else. (and it is) just not in your yard for the world to see.
so, it depends. what is your intent.
what kind of work are you going to make.
be sure you know, have an idea of where you are
going with that work. then choose, and don't look
for greener grass in another place. make the kiln
you choose, work for you.
each aesthetic has it's own reward, detractors and glorifier.
it just depends.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
mel jacobson on sun 16 nov 03
it is very simple.
for those who cannot afford, or have space for, or
have an old electric kiln...this kiln
will give you a kiln that you can do:
slow bisque
low temp earthenware
cone six ox.
and cone 10 reduction.
one kiln for all seasons.
and, you don't need a smoke stack.
just a venting system that you already
need for an electric kiln.
no gas lines, inspections, permits.
and, the size is just perfect for a home potter.
alternatives, that what the world needs, alternatives.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
mel jacobson on sat 26 sep 09
old electric kilns still work fine in most cases.
a good cleaning, check switches, clean connections
and tighten up things...it should be fine.
no reason to throw it away.
both of my electric kilns are from the 60's. they work great.
my big one was a throw away. i snatched it off a friend's pick up
truck before she went to the dump. 1965 L@L
i took it all apart, cleaned it...in this case, i added new coils
as i had a set, itc'd the entire kiln and it fires like a dream.
simple/just high, medium and low. because of the itc i am
sure the coils will last for years to come. i only bisque in it
to cone 08.
in fact for just bisque, the non/computer sort of kiln is more
than fine. i control the ramp with an alarm clock.
cost. for me: hundred bucks. if you consider i had an old set of
coils, and itc was leftover...the cost: my time.
here is the original post to clayart for the gaselectric kiln:
or, check your old pmi magazines...it has pix..but this works too.
there are dozens of these kilns out in clayart land.
______________________________________________________
i have had some questions and thought i should
go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
gas/electric kiln.
as taught to me by nils lou.
take one electric kiln.
take it all apart...clean it very well.
brush out all the debris, and wash it.
yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
hard.
drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
lid of the kiln.
order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narr=
ow.
or, stick the coils in a plastic bag, add the itc and shake and bake.
(itc is best if you use a blender, and blend the pee out of it for 6 minute=
s.)
it takes about a half cup of 213 to coat a set of coils.
hang them to dry.
wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
the coils with an even thin coat of itc 100. thin coat is better than
a thick coat.
let it dry.
install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
make them shine.
spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a thin coat of itc100...make sure
it is all covered....well.
dry, then fire the kiln to cone 012 or so.
i then sprayed the entire kiln with a thin coat of itc296a top coat.
let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
out the coils into the electrical. you can stuff the hole with a
tiny bit of kaowool first, then spray.
buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
connection ), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
we installed a simple regulator.
load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
don't over pack, leave spaces...don't make dams for the flow
of heat.
fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom. we mounted
the burner on a broken kiln shelf...keep the flame about a half inch
from the hole in the kiln. don't stuff it in the hole. it takes great
engineering skill to figure out how to make the burner fit to the hole.
you know...broken kiln shelves stacked. (if you need it.)
place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
we fired to cone 10.
about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
turn off gas.
button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
we fired back up at about 1750 held it there...as we had a great many
reds in the kiln. (down fire techniques work great, as you don't want
this kiln to cool too fast...be smart.)
open kiln.
nice red, shino, good body color.
typical stoneware reduction firing.
and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
maybe two hours second day.
for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
will not work. buy new.
i would not do this with a totally beat out kiln....try and find a decent
used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
soft brick surface to coat with itc.
we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
rim of the kiln...want that tight.
we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
the main electric cable of the kiln.
we also surrounded the kiln with a piece of old metal roofing.
just for safety. the outside of that lkiln gets really hot at cone 10.
from: minnetonka, mn
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
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