Don Prey on thu 13 jul 00
In a message dated 7/13/2000 3:00:58 PM, pwjl@HEMC.NET writes:
<< Hi- Little did I know I'd become one of the regulars. I will TRY to keep
my questions to subjects that aren't just run of the mill, though. I'm
working on how to highlight textures on the outside of VERY textured pots.
Something that looks great on greenware is Mason stains brushed on dry so
that they stay in the deeper crevasses. Does anyone know if this will work
when fired (Cone 6)? These pots are pretty thin so have little moisture. I
could get by with one firing if this works! I've thought of LIGHTLY misting
the pots after putting on the dry stuff, but naturally I'd rather not do an
unnecessary step... >>
Priscilla, Moisture is not what is needed. Mason stains by themselves will
not fuse (melt) at cone 6. Hence, they will come out dry and with little or
no adhesion to the clay. You will need to mix the stain with a bit of frit
or overspray with a clear glaze. This could be a "once firing"
proceedure....no requirement to bisque.
Don Prey in Oregon
PS. I will be off list next week attending Vince's workshop.
Cindy Strnad on thu 13 jul 00
Hello, Priscilla.
I've painted on Mason stains and fired to cone 6, and some of them will
still scrub off after firing. You can mix them with a frit, or gerstley
borate, and this will help to melt them. I'm not sure how it will work the
way you're doing it--that is, applying them dry--but reason seems to say it
should melt just the same.
What I now do is apply a thin layer of saturated soda ash solution (you'll
have to get the water hot to dissolve the soda ash sufficiently) over the
Mason Stain painted areas--just to make sure they aren't going to be rubbing
off. A thicker layer will be shiny, so be careful. And if you apply it to
the foot, you'll need to use wads or stilts--it will stick to the shelf.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
earthenv@gwtc.net
Priscilla Wilson and/or Janice Lymburner on thu 13 jul 00
Hi- Little did I know I'd become one of the regulars. I will TRY to keep =
my questions to subjects that aren't just run of the mill, though. I'm =
working on how to highlight textures on the outside of VERY textured =
pots. Something that looks great on greenware is Mason stains brushed on =
dry so that they stay in the deeper crevasses. Does anyone know if this =
will work when fired (Cone 6)? These pots are pretty thin so have little =
moisture. I could get by with one firing if this works! I've thought of =
LIGHTLY misting the pots after putting on the dry stuff, but naturally =
I'd rather not do an unnecessary step...
Thanks, Priscilla
Teresa Speakman on thu 13 jul 00
Priscilla, I have tried brushing on dry stains and blowing (dry stain on
paper, held up to selected places and the stain went on as nice lines) It
looked great on the greenware, but I was disappointed with the results, as
most brushed off after bisqing. Just my limited experience.
Teresa in Ohio
> From: Priscilla Wilson and/or Janice Lymburner
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:41:38 -0400
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Using Mason stains dry
>
> Hi- Little did I know I'd become one of the regulars. I will TRY to keep my
> questions to subjects that aren't just run of the mill, though. I'm working on
> how to highlight textures on the outside of VERY textured pots. Something that
> looks great on greenware is Mason stains brushed on dry so that they stay in
> the deeper crevasses. Does anyone know if this will work when fired (Cone 6)?
> These pots are pretty thin so have little moisture. I could get by with one
> firing if this works! I've thought of LIGHTLY misting the pots after putting
> on the dry stuff, but naturally I'd rather not do an unnecessary step...
>
> Thanks, Priscilla
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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>
GURUSHAKTI@AOL.COM on fri 14 jul 00
Priscilla,
Years ago a friend used one of the Mason stains (a pink one) and fired to
cone 10. It stayed on the pot, but personally I thought the color a bit
ghastly. It was bazooka bubble gum pink! If memory serves me, she used the
stain straight -- no fluxes. It was probably just mixed with a bit of water
and then sprayed.
Do a few tests -- one straight and one with a pinch of flux like Frit 3134.
Regards,
June
Deeclay@AOL.COM on fri 14 jul 00
When I use Mason stains, I usually mix with water and a little clear glaze.
That way they can melt right in. Just wipe excess off the high points.
Try mixing the colors, they can combine nicely. Even mix with colored
glaze. By adding the glaze you get a slight sheen on the high points. Nice.
Have fun.
Diane in Miami
Gayle Bair on fri 14 jul 00
I am concerned with "Brushing" and "blowing"
dry mason stains. I sure hope you wear
a mask when doing that!
Gayle Bair
>snip
Priscilla, I have tried brushing on dry stains and blowing (dry stain on
paper,
>snip
> looks great on greenware is Mason stains brushed on dry so that they stay
in
> the deeper crevasses. >
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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