Marion Lyon on thu 20 jul 00
Here's a question. Recently a friend gave me a basketful of little =
vials of powdered colors. Besides the statement above, the label says: =
FRY'S New York. I checked with Rhodes' book on clay and glazes but he =
is very brief and I don't know if these are the types of colors he was =
considering. Does anyone know about these? I 'd like to know how to mix =
them and use them. Rhodes mentions linseed oil as a medium. Would I =
have to make a mixture of the powders with some fluxing agents, as I do =
now with the oxides I use for on-glaze paintings? I'd appreciate some =
input from those of you who have done china painting or who might know =
more about them. I know I will have to test for the right temperature.
JIMV062@AOL.COM on sun 23 jul 00
John do you know how old the vials of "powder" are..? They sound like china
paints. They older ones need to be mixed with oil.( oil of cloves, oil of
lavender etc.) before they can be painted on the glazed pots. They newer
ones can be mixed with water... Jim in Dallas.
John Baymore on sun 23 jul 00
Recently a friend gave me a basketful of little vials of powdered colors.=
=
Besides the statement above, the label says:
FRY'S New York. .................... Does anyone know about these? I 'd=
like to know how to mix them and use them. .................... Would I =
have to make a mixture of the powders with some fluxing agents, as I do n=
ow
with the oxides I use for on-glaze paintings?
Marion,
Hi.
These are also called "overgalze enamels". I use overglaze enamels on wo=
od
fired stoneware sometimes, so know just enough to be dangerous. Couple o=
f
thoughts.....
Most of these "china paints" out in the market are lead flux based and so=
are not appropriate for food contact surfaces and also pose a hazard to t=
he
potter in handling. Some colors, like those using Naples Yellow, are VER=
Y
toxic to handle. Many blood reds will contain cadmium....another real
nasty. Be careful. Treat them with great respect. Clean up the work ar=
e
a well. Wash your hands with soap and water. Good hygiene and all that
. The gases from the kiln will carry some lead fume,and the oil based=
carriers can give off some pretty stinky stuff.. =
I don't know that particular brand, so I can't say that they ARE lead
based..... but I'd guess they are.
You typically do not need to add anything like a flux...... they are glaz=
es
all by themselves. Traditionally to "flux down" a particular color (adju=
st
it's character and look to other lower firing colors)...... one added
something like white lead. If you mix the china paint with linseed oil
you usually take some powder and a few drops of oil and mix with a pallat=
e
knife on a sheet of glass. Mix really well, and sort of grind the
overglaze on the glass surface. You can also try using some of the water=
based acrylic mediums for a carrier.
Firing range is very low, and is oxidation. Typically small Orton cone 0=
17
to 013...... but you'll have to test unless the vials say the
temperature/cone on them. Some particular colors are lower than others i=
n
the same manufacturer's line.
Some colors can be mixed very much like paint colors (blue and yellow giv=
es
green and so on).... others do not mix well at all. If you can't find th=
e
manufacturers information, you'll just have to test such things. Some ar=
e
somewhat translucent while others are completely opaque.
The surface you are painting onto has to be REALLY clean. No finger oils=
and such. The enamel coating when dry will smudge easily. Handle
carefully. It'll pick up studio dust too. =
They pretty much stay where they are put. Good brush technique is crucia=
l.
If you don't like a brush stroke........ you won't like it when it comes=
out of the kiln. Unlike high fire glazes........ or other more reactive
glazes......... you will get pretty much exactly what you see in the
unfired state. No "help" from the fire. They should generally be painte=
d
on pretty thin....but can be applied a little thickly for a three
dimensional relief surface.
Sometimes the colors are fired on in "layers" to build up colors, with th=
e
higher firing ones done first and then the lower firing ones are applied
and theye are re-fired. =
I use a leadless / cadmium-less version that is suspended in a water base=
d
carrier.
Hope this is of some help.
Best,
......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA
603-654-2752 (s)
800-900-1110 (s)
JBaymore@compuserve.com
John.Baymore@GSD-CO.com
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop August 18-27,
2000"
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