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thin stainless ribs

updated fri 11 aug 00

 

Earl Brunner on tue 8 aug 00


I too like my metal ribs, and they needn't be dangerous if
used carefully, I've seen more accidents from cut off wires
and needle tools than anything.
I suspect that a "nice" gash with a metal rib could be
serious as Mel suggests. I have begun to use the Sherril
ribs lately and find them a nice compromise. Color coded for
degree of stiffness, they don't "burr" on the work face,
nice.

Ray Aldridge wrote:
>
> At 12:17 PM 7/16/00 -0500, you wrote:
> >The statement about the thin stainless ribs has to be the most true
> >statement around. I only use these to smooth after trimming, never on the
> >wheel. If you need that shape rib for wheel use use the rubber ones!
> >
>
> I have to disagree with mel on these, though I'm sure that if I'd spent
> many years teaching kids I'd feel the same way, because they can cut you.
> Still, I'd be lost without my steel ribs. I'm a surface decorator (I
> stopped finding throwing ridges fascinating 30 years ago) and these ribs
> give me the best compromise between precision, smooth surface and lively
> form. Rigid ribs just don't do it for me, and the rubber ones don't leave
> a clean-enough surface, especially after they've been used for a while.
>
> Ray
>
> Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
> http://www.goodpots.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net

Ray Aldridge on tue 8 aug 00


At 12:17 PM 7/16/00 -0500, you wrote:
>The statement about the thin stainless ribs has to be the most true
>statement around. I only use these to smooth after trimming, never on the
>wheel. If you need that shape rib for wheel use use the rubber ones!
>

I have to disagree with mel on these, though I'm sure that if I'd spent
many years teaching kids I'd feel the same way, because they can cut you.
Still, I'd be lost without my steel ribs. I'm a surface decorator (I
stopped finding throwing ridges fascinating 30 years ago) and these ribs
give me the best compromise between precision, smooth surface and lively
form. Rigid ribs just don't do it for me, and the rubber ones don't leave
a clean-enough surface, especially after they've been used for a while.

Ray


Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
http://www.goodpots.com

brooks ratledge on tue 8 aug 00


try the new ribs carried by Highwater Clay - they're great and the edges stay
smooth - pat

Ray Aldridge wrote:

> At 12:17 PM 7/16/00 -0500, you wrote:
> >The statement about the thin stainless ribs has to be the most true
> >statement around. I only use these to smooth after trimming, never on the
> >wheel. If you need that shape rib for wheel use use the rubber ones!
> >
>
> I have to disagree with mel on these, though I'm sure that if I'd spent
> many years teaching kids I'd feel the same way, because they can cut you.
> Still, I'd be lost without my steel ribs. I'm a surface decorator (I
> stopped finding throwing ridges fascinating 30 years ago) and these ribs
> give me the best compromise between precision, smooth surface and lively
> form. Rigid ribs just don't do it for me, and the rubber ones don't leave
> a clean-enough surface, especially after they've been used for a while.
>
> Ray
>
> Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
> http://www.goodpots.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Paul Taylor on thu 10 aug 00


Dear Ray

I agree with you because I also make porcelain.

Where do you buy them ? I have one but If had another I would be more
relaxed when I misplace it.

Have you any throwing tricks for avoiding the rings that turn up as memory
in the fired piece.

-- Regards Paul Taylor.

Westport Pottery, Liscarney, County Mayo. Ireland.

http://www.anu.ie/westportpottery/

Ps to all. Please paragraph your posts and put a blank line in between the
paragraphs. I have great difficulty reading large blocks of type from a
screen.



> From: Ray Aldridge
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 15:15:33 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: thin stainless ribs
>
> At 12:17 PM 7/16/00 -0500, you wrote:
>> The statement about the thin stainless ribs has to be the most true
>> statement around. I only use these to smooth after trimming, never on the
>> wheel. If you need that shape rib for wheel use use the rubber ones!
>>
>
> I have to disagree with mel on these, though I'm sure that if I'd spent
> many years teaching kids I'd feel the same way, because they can cut you.
> Still, I'd be lost without my steel ribs. I'm a surface decorator (I
> stopped finding throwing ridges fascinating 30 years ago) and these ribs
> give me the best compromise between precision, smooth surface and lively
> form. Rigid ribs just don't do it for me, and the rubber ones don't leave
> a clean-enough surface, especially after they've been used for a while.
>
> Ray
>
>
> Aldridge Porcelain and Stoneware
> http://www.goodpots.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.

rickmahaffey on thu 10 aug 00


Paul,

In China I saw porcelain pots that were thrown thick (1/2") and trimmed to be thin
( 3/16"). I was told that this was so that the piece would have uniform thickness
and translucency when fired.

Rick Mahaffey
Tacoma Washington, USA

Paul Taylor wrote:

>
> Have you any throwing tricks for avoiding the rings that turn up as memory
> in the fired piece.