Jeanne Stolberg on wed 30 aug 00
First of all, thank you all for your responses for shipping supplies. There
is a large company in L.A. that looks like it has everything in that dept.
Here's another question: I airbrush mason stains mixed with water onto
leatherhard pots, then sgraffitto designs on them (large platters). The
problem is that I cannot touch the places that have the stain on them, as it
smudges terribly. (No resting of the hand on the pot while I use a tool to
make the designs--ergo, shouldn't drink alot of coffee that day!) Does
anyone have a hint for fixing the stain so that it is more durable? I've
tried spraying aritist's fixative, and hairspray over the top and neither
one worked. There is probably something real simple that I just don't know
about.
Thanks for your help,
Jeanne
Morris, Marlene F. on wed 30 aug 00
I'd like to know the answer to this, too.
As far as needing to rest your hand on the piece while you're working, try
using a prop. Painters will sometimes use a paintbrush or ruler held in the
other hand and at an angle for the working hand to rest on. In a book on
decorating pieces, the author had built an upside-down U, or bracket, to
rest his hand on while decorating platters. He'd just slide the bracket
over the platter while working. I've gotta try that one. It takes a lot to
keep me from my coffee.
Marlene
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeanne Stolberg [mailto:j.stolberg@ATT.NET]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:23 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Non-smudging stains
>
>
> First of all, thank you all for your responses for shipping
> supplies. There
> is a large company in L.A. that looks like it has everything
> in that dept.
>
> Here's another question: I airbrush mason stains mixed with water onto
> leatherhard pots, then sgraffitto designs on them (large
> platters). The
> problem is that I cannot touch the places that have the stain
> on them, as it
> smudges terribly. (No resting of the hand on the pot while I
> use a tool to
> make the designs--ergo, shouldn't drink alot of coffee that day!) Does
> anyone have a hint for fixing the stain so that it is more
> durable? I've
> tried spraying aritist's fixative, and hairspray over the top
> and neither
> one worked. There is probably something real simple that I
> just don't know
> about.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Jeanne
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Paul Brinkmann on wed 30 aug 00
Jeanne, i have been working in majolica for some time, and unless you put
some kind of a binder in the base glaze, or spray a binder or fixative on,
its extremely difficult to paint any kind of design on the vessel. learned
at a workshop at Texas A&M Univesity at Corpus Christi, Texas that you can
desolve CMC to a sprayable solution, and spray it on with a spray (spritzer)
bottle. it fixes the base glaze and it is no longer powdery. I dont know
why this process wouldnt work for you .
Rod, Marian, and Holly Morris on wed 30 aug 00
I struggled with this, too, with my majolica work. Mason stains by
themselves, or even with the recommended gerstly borate are quite chalky
when dry. I switched to using commercial underglazes, which as you know, are
loaded with fillers and gums. This suggests the possibility that you could
add CMC or even laundry starch to your mason stains before spraying. I could
have done that, but with the price of mason stains, I found that the
commercial underglaze route worked out fine for me. (The Duncan line of
"Concepts" works fabulously well over my base glaze, while some of the
velvets and other true underglazes are refractory and need some flux added.)
Marian in Michigan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeanne Stolberg"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:23 AM
Subject: Non-smudging stains
> First of all, thank you all for your responses for shipping supplies.
There
> is a large company in L.A. that looks like it has everything in that dept.
>
> Here's another question: I airbrush mason stains mixed with water onto
> leatherhard pots, then sgraffitto designs on them (large platters). The
> problem is that I cannot touch the places that have the stain on them, as
it
> smudges terribly. (No resting of the hand on the pot while I use a tool to
> make the designs--ergo, shouldn't drink alot of coffee that day!) Does
> anyone have a hint for fixing the stain so that it is more durable? I've
> tried spraying aritist's fixative, and hairspray over the top and neither
> one worked. There is probably something real simple that I just don't
know
> about.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Jeanne
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jeanne Stolberg on thu 31 aug 00
John,
hmmm....I never woulda guessed mopnglo. I'm going to give it a try next
time. Thanks for the tip!
--Jeanne
john mertens on thu 31 aug 00
Jeanne-I found this info "on the net" somewhere some time ago
spray/brush mopnglo (floorwax) over your airbrushed work before you start
sgraffito work-the stuff is easy to dilute and burns off in the bisque
firing-does not smell too bad either-Allows you to cut nice sharp lines and
no smudges.Cheap and less of a mess than all the hotwax.Brush the fired item
with a soft brush after it comes out of your kiln and vacuum kiln and
shelves before you do a glaze firing----- John in Colgan OntarioOriginal
Message -----
From: "Jeanne Stolberg"
To:
Sent: August 30, 2000 9:23 AM
Subject: Non-smudging stains
> First of all, thank you all for your responses for shipping supplies.
There
> is a large company in L.A. that looks like it has everything in that dept.
>
> Here's another question: I airbrush mason stains mixed with water onto
> leatherhard pots, then sgraffitto designs on them (large platters). The
> problem is that I cannot touch the places that have the stain on them, as
it
> smudges terribly. (No resting of the hand on the pot while I use a tool to
> make the designs--ergo, shouldn't drink alot of coffee that day!) Does
> anyone have a hint for fixing the stain so that it is more durable? I've
> tried spraying aritist's fixative, and hairspray over the top and neither
> one worked. There is probably something real simple that I just don't
know
> about.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Jeanne
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Rhonda Oldland on thu 31 aug 00
I don't know if this will help you and maybe there is a simplier fix,but I
mix my stains with the claybody I am using at the time by putting them in
the kitchen blender with enough water to make them as thick or thin as I
need for the project. I either paint or dip them depending on what I am
doing . Then after firing them I just add a matt or glossy clear coat and
final fire. Rhonda Surfside Beach , s.c.
At 06:23 8/30/00 -0700, you wrote:
>First of all, thank you all for your responses for shipping supplies. There
>is a large company in L.A. that looks like it has everything in that dept.
>
>Here's another question: I airbrush mason stains mixed with water onto
>leatherhard pots, then sgraffitto designs on them (large platters). The
>problem is that I cannot touch the places that have the stain on them, as it
>smudges terribly. (No resting of the hand on the pot while I use a tool to
>make the designs--ergo, shouldn't drink alot of coffee that day!) Does
>anyone have a hint for fixing the stain so that it is more durable? I've
>tried spraying aritist's fixative, and hairspray over the top and neither
>one worked. There is probably something real simple that I just don't know
>about.
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Jeanne
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
tgschs10 on fri 1 sep 00
Jeanne,
I have been experimenting with terra sig and various stains. I have been
using goldart clay and make the terra sig using a ball mill; If you fire at
high temps, however, some of the stains burn out.
Tom Sawyer
tgschs10@msn.com
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