Chris Clarke on thu 21 sep 00
Hey Ingeborg,
I saw your post, I've got a technique for you. Make slip that is the =
same color, or just use the same body, as your clay. Make it thick so =
when you trail it, it stands up. I make dots. Then, when it becomes =
firm, paddle the tops flat. It makes great places for glaze to break. =
My printmaking teacher taught me this method and I've used it much.
chris clarke
Temecula, CA
chris@ccpots.com
www.ccpots.com
look again
Gayle Bair on fri 22 sep 00
I made a pitcher with "Dots"
using slip in a plastic syringe.
Chris is right paddle or sponge the
points so they are at least slightly flattened.
I will not sell the pitcher... it is dangerous
as it draws blood! It's my "angry woman" pitcher!
I also made a teapot with this method and put some mason
stains in the slip which gave the dots contrast.
Gayle Bair
Snip>
I saw your post, I've got a technique for you. Make slip that is the same
color, or just use the same body, as your clay. Make it thick so when you
trail it, it stands up. I make dots. Then, when it becomes firm, paddle
the tops flat. It makes great places for glaze to break. My printmaking
teacher taught me this method and I've used it much.
chris clarke
Cindy Strnad on sat 23 sep 00
Regarding ware with pointy dots.
Another method of removing the spurs is by gently sponging with a medium
damp, fine-grained sponge. Or sanding with fine steel wool--but do this
outside with a mask as it's very dusty.
Along the lines of 3-D slip trailing . . . I haven't done this in a while,
but another application method that works with the thicker slips is to use a
pastry bag (you know, the tool made for applying frosting pansies to frilly
wedding cakes or filling cream puffs). There are an amazing array of points
available. Just don't get too cute, or folks will think you've gone into
cake decorating. I only ever used the round points--doesn't mean the others
wouldn't work.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
Gwyn Ace on sat 16 feb 02
Somewhere I came across a hint for testing trailed slip for 'fit'...and =
shrinkage. It was to make tests of the clays in U shape and trail a =
test over the top of the shape and on the inside of the shape with the =
clay at the required dryness. This will test the 'fit'
I have always found that an addition of a good bentonite will often =
help..when the shrinkage is too low...and... As already suggested..the =
use of some calcined Kaolin will help reduce the shrinkage for a slip =
for a dryer clay... and a slip for dry clay or biscuit should have a =
formula like a dry glaze with little or no plastic content.
The use of a 'background' slip over the area to be trailed which is then =
left to firm a bit.. can make life a lot easier.
good potting GWYN in N.Z.
Susan on wed 20 feb 02
If you can afford this, check out:
http://www.brackers.com/TheAirPen.html
I use the Air Pen to do very fine slip trailing
> From: "Judith I. Marvin"
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 23:18:33 -0500
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: slip trailing
>
> Was looking for a way to do finer line slip trailing. The bulb syringe that
> I had wasn't cutting the mustart. Read over Vince's super handout that was
> posted yesterday and was a woman on a mission. Hit Wallmart, Radio Shack,
> med supply place, etc., etc. looking for very narrow flexible tubing. No
> luck. Finally stumbled into a hobby shop in the mall and voila! The sell
> small packages of very fine flexible rubber tubing used for fuel lines on
> model airplanes. Working great connected via a basketball needle to a bulb
> syringe. Who'd a thunk it. Judith
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Judith I. Marvin on wed 20 feb 02
Was looking for a way to do finer line slip trailing. The bulb syringe that
I had wasn't cutting the mustart. Read over Vince's super handout that was
posted yesterday and was a woman on a mission. Hit Wallmart, Radio Shack,
med supply place, etc., etc. looking for very narrow flexible tubing. No
luck. Finally stumbled into a hobby shop in the mall and voila! The sell
small packages of very fine flexible rubber tubing used for fuel lines on
model airplanes. Working great connected via a basketball needle to a bulb
syringe. Who'd a thunk it. Judith
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
Jim Bozeman on thu 21 feb 02
Judith, You can also use hair dye bottles. They have an extremely fine nozzle that works great. I screen my slip mix through 80 mesh. You can get these bottles and nozzle at practically any Salon. (Fancy hair-cut stores)
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
Des & Jan Howard on fri 22 feb 02
Jim
I use these hair dye bottles you refer to.
The bottle tip fits a standard metal syringe needle,
19 gauge works for me. Any other gauge would also fit.
Des
Jim Bozeman wrote:
> Judith, You can also use hair dye bottles. They have an extremely fine nozzle
> that works great. I screen my slip mix through 80 mesh. You can get these
> bottles and nozzle at practically any Salon. (Fancy hair-cut stores)--
>
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
Judith I. Marvin on fri 22 feb 02
Hey Jim - for sure will give it a try. Havn't been in a fancy hair place
for years! Wonder what else good they have there. Regards. Judith
>From: Jim Bozeman
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: slip trailing
>Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:16:11 -0500
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Marianne Lombardo on fri 22 feb 02
But where do you get the syringe needle? I don't believe we can get them,
at least not in Canada, without a prescription. Our local hospital donated
some plastic syringes to me, but refused to give me the needle.
Marianne
> Jim
> I use these hair dye bottles you refer to.
> The bottle tip fits a standard metal syringe needle,
> 19 gauge works for me. Any other gauge would also fit.
> Des
>
>
>
Ron Roy on sun 24 feb 02
I used to use syringes for trailing but found squeeze bottles are easier to
control.
Tuckers sells the kind from Kemper - you can cut the nozzle to get a thick
or thin stream.
They are a little small but if you could find a bigger one that would fit
the nozzle it would be better.
The best thing about them is - when you stop squeezing the slip stops - not
so with a syringe.
RR
>But where do you get the syringe needle? I don't believe we can get them,
>at least not in Canada, without a prescription. Our local hospital donated
>some plastic syringes to me, but refused to give me the needle.
>
>Marianne
>
>> Jim
>> I use these hair dye bottles you refer to.
>> The bottle tip fits a standard metal syringe needle,
>> 19 gauge works for me. Any other gauge would also fit.
>> Des
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
O'Brien Tyrrell on sun 24 feb 02
I have used a variety of slip trailing techniques but always fall back =
on the bulb. I use the blue ones from a discount store and cut off the =
end and insert a basketball pump fitting from the sporting goods =
department. Make sure when trimming off the end of the bulb that the =
hole is not too large or it will leak. The thin end of the pump fitting =
must be ground off so the slip comes straight out the end. I have also =
used needles from a vet inserted the same manner also ground off so as =
not to be too dangerous. =20
O'Brien Tyrrell
Llewellyn Kouba on sun 24 feb 02
For slip trailing or on glaze squirts I have found the plastic bottles that
beauticians use for perm solutions etc. to be very useful. They are not
real large and my friend gave me some of her new ones which had not
previously been cut off so you can get quite a small thin stream. You could
get your hair done at the same time (if you have any that is:) *next to bald
Llewellyn *:)
At 01:20 AM 2/24/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>I used to use syringes for trailing but found squeeze bottles are easier to
>control.
>
>Tuckers sells the kind from Kemper - you can cut the nozzle to get a thick
>or thin stream.
>
>They are a little small but if you could find a bigger one that would fit
>the nozzle it would be better.
>
>The best thing about them is - when you stop squeezing the slip stops - not
>so with a syringe.
>
>RR
>
> >But where do you get the syringe needle? I don't believe we can get them,
> >at least not in Canada, without a prescription. Our local hospital donated
> >some plastic syringes to me, but refused to give me the needle.
> >
> >Marianne
> >
> >> Jim
> >> I use these hair dye bottles you refer to.
> >> The bottle tip fits a standard metal syringe needle,
> >> 19 gauge works for me. Any other gauge would also fit.
> >> Des
>
>Ron Roy
>RR# 4
>15084 Little Lake Rd..
>Brighton,
>Ontario, Canada
>KOK 1H0
>Residence 613-475-9544
>Studio 613-475-3715
>Fax 613-475-3513
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Andi Fasimpaur on sun 24 feb 02
At 01:20 AM 2/24/02 -0400, you wrote:
>I used to use syringes for trailing but found squeeze bottles are easier to
>control.
>
>Tuckers sells the kind from Kemper - you can cut the nozzle to get a thick
>or thin stream.
>
>They are a little small but if you could find a bigger one that would fit
>the nozzle it would be better.
>
>The best thing about them is - when you stop squeezing the slip stops - not
>so with a syringe.
>
>RR
I found the most wonderful bottle at a cooking supply store... it has a large
gauge "hypodermic" type tip, there's a little cap that fits on the end of it,
and the top with the hypo tip can be replaced with a regular cap... it was
designed for use in kitchens where the presentation of food on "trailed"
sauces has become so popular, the cap can be used to prevent short
term contamination/drying out, the lid can be replaced for storage and
so that the hypo tip can be cleaned... I use the bottles all the time for
glazing the insides of my pendant bottles... they work great... Some of
my necks are really narrow, and I wouldn't be able to glaze them any
other way.
Andi.
http://www.mysticspiral.com
Ian Macmillan on sun 24 feb 02
The best thing I have found for this is a "perm" application bottle.
Get them from the beauty supply store for real cheap.
Ian
>I used to use syringes for trailing but found squeeze bottles are easier to
>control.
>
>Tuckers sells the kind from Kemper - you can cut the nozzle to get a thick
>or thin stream.
>
Marianne Lombardo on sun 24 feb 02
Andi;
I went to your website and saw your tiny pendant bottles. They are very
nice. Do they have stoppers to put oil or perfume in them?
Marianne
> glazing the insides of my pendant bottles... they work great... Some of
> my necks are really narrow, and I wouldn't be able to glaze them any
> other way.
Bonnie Staffel on sun 24 feb 02
Hi Clayarters,
For those looking for syringe needles, sometimes you can get them from your
local veterinarian. They seem more suitable for trailing than the human
types.
Regards, Bonnie Staffel of Charlevoix MI.
James Bowen on mon 25 feb 02
Miss Clairol Tint 'n Toner bottles or the generic equivalent
are available from beauty shops or their suppliers for $1-2
each and work great. Very fine line. Trimable for a larger
opening if need be.
I can see the need for both. Those that act using gravity
instead of pressure should be more controllable. I think if
we cut a hole in the side of a bottle near the bottom you
could use a finger or thumb to allow air in and a bottle
could be a gravity type trailer. Might need to make a cradle
for it though .
Stay Centered
James Bowen
Boyero CO
jbowen43@yahoo.com
jbowen43@plains.net
Steve Mills on mon 25 feb 02
2 possibilities:
make contact with someone who refills their own ink jet printer
cartridges; they use a needle (blunt ended) with a large capacity
syringe.
Or
Superglue a short length of fine plastic electronic cable sleeve into
the plastic nozzle of a rubber bulb Rectal Enema (yes I'm serious they
make very good slip trailers).
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Marianne Lombardo writes
>But where do you get the syringe needle? I don't believe we can get them=
>,
>at least not in Canada, without a prescription. Our local hospital donat=
>ed
>some plastic syringes to me, but refused to give me the needle.
>
>Marianne
>
>> Jim
>> I use these hair dye bottles you refer to.
>> The bottle tip fits a standard metal syringe needle,
>> 19 gauge works for me. Any other gauge would also fit.
>> Des
>>
>>
>>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Nanci Bishof on mon 25 feb 02
See if there is a "container" distributor in your area. If so, the bottles +
tips are less than a dollar each. They are distributors to manufacturers for
bottles, cartons, etc. and are much less expensive than stores. They often
sell by the individual piece rather than by the case.
nanci
Ben Friesen on tue 21 dec 04
Hello...
I've been getting into slip trailing designs into my pots... So far I've =
just been using my Laguna B-mix by itself for just some raised texture. =
I was wondering if anyone had any recipes for coloring the slip...... I =
have tried some Blythe stains but the colors are always so muted and =
boring. Maybe it's my clear glaze although I doubt it (or maybe just =
need to add more stain... I thought I had lots at 12%). Any ideas for =
some colored slips for ^6 oxidation with Laguna B-mix 5? A clear glaze =
to go with it?? Thanks for any suggestions...
Ben Friesen
Stonepath Pottery
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Dorie Mickelson on wed 22 dec 04
Ben, I have used the following slip recipes on both light stoneware and
porcelain clay bodies fired to cone 6 oxidation with good results (under
clear glossy glaze, clear matte glaze, satin white glaze, etc.):
White base slip recipe:
EPK 40
OM #4 Ball 30
Flint 15
Custer 15
Add the following colorants to the above base for the following three
different colors of slip:
Black Slip: 12% mason stain #6600
Blue Slip: 5% cobalt carb
Turquoise Slip: 8% mason stain #6266 (peacock)
I apply these slips (trailed, brushed, marbled, etc.) at the leather
hard stage, usually just after trimming. If brushing on, two or three
coats are usually best. You will, of course, want to test these on your
own clay body for proper fit...
Dorie Mickelson in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where it is oh sooooooo cold!
www.FreeSpiritCreations.com
-------------------
From: Ben Friesen
Subject: Re: slip trailing
I was wondering if anyone had any recipes for coloring the
slip......Any ideas for some colored slips for ^6 oxidation with Laguna
B-mix 5?
Snail Scott on wed 22 dec 04
At 06:39 PM 12/21/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>...recipes for coloring the slip...... I have tried some Blythe stains but
the colors are always so muted and boring. >...maybe just need to add more
stain... I thought I had lots at 12%). Any ideas for some colored slips for
^6 oxidation...
B-mix is good for adding color, since it's fairly
white.I don't know the Blythe stains, but for 'body
stain' in general (adding color to clay itself,
including slips) 12% isn't much for bright colors -
20% might be a better starting point, and some colors
may never be really bright without using more.
An engobe with a bit more clarity might give better
color response, too - B-mix isn't the whitest stuff
there is. Try a recipe from scratch, with just a
little flux.
Your glaze may be a factor as well - some glaze
materials react badly with some stain materials, and
'wash out' the color. Try a few test batches of other
clear glazes, and read the literature on the stains
you are using. (Contact the company if you have none.)
There should be some notation about which stains won't
work with which glaze materials.
Oxides will go further with less, though your color
palette will be more limited. 2% cobalt will give a
vivid blue, and 8% chrome a solid green. Iron and
manganese will give browns, and add a bit of chrome
and 1% of cobalt to make them a true black.
-Snail
claybair on tue 13 jun 06
Michelle,
I would suspect your problem is that your greenware is too dry a
surface. Try it on leatherhard or perhaps spraying the greenware
with water before applying the slip.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Michele D'Amico
I wanted to slip trail a design on a piece of greenware. I mixed up a slip
of the same clay as the pot with some water and sodium silicate. As soon
as the slip dried, it popped right off the pot. Can I get some ideas on
how to get the slip to stick to the pot? Thanks, Michele
damicom@cruzio.com
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.4/363 - Release Date: 6/13/2006
Michele D'Amico on tue 13 jun 06
I wanted to slip trail a design on a piece of greenware. I mixed up a slip
of the same clay as the pot with some water and sodium silicate. As soon
as the slip dried, it popped right off the pot. Can I get some ideas on
how to get the slip to stick to the pot? Thanks, Michele
damicom@cruzio.com
Snail Scott on wed 14 jun 06
At 02:55 PM 6/13/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>I wanted to slip trail a design on a piece of greenware. I mixed up a slip
>of the same clay as the pot with some water and sodium silicate. As soon
>as the slip dried, it popped right off the pot. Can I get some ideas on
>how to get the slip to stick to the pot?
An unmodified slip will naturally have a much
higher shrinkage than the same clay already
bone-dry, and will generally accomodate such
usage only when applied very thinly.
This sounds like a job for...
Engobes!
'Engobe' is a rather broad term, but for your
purposes, think of it as a slip with useful
additives. In this case, you need to reduce
the wet-to-dry shrinkage for sure. It also
might not hurt to add a little flux, to stick
it on really well in the final firing. So:
Try adding maybe 30% calcined kaolin to your
slip, relative to the DRY weight of the material.
If you add 15% to the wet weight, you'll be in
the ballpark, too. Exact percentages are not
critical. You might also add 10% of a frit.
Test these, and if they don't do what you want,
try a little more or less of one or the other,
or both.
-Snail
Lee Love on wed 14 jun 06
On 6/14/06, Michele D'Amico wrote:
> I wanted to slip trail a design on a piece of greenware. I mixed up a slip
> of the same clay as the pot with some water and sodium silicate. As soon
> as the slip dried, it popped right off the pot. Can I get some ideas on
> how to get the slip to stick to the pot?
Yes: Slip trail during leather hard and not in the green state.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://mashiko.org
My google Notebooks:
http://tinyurl.com/e5p3n
"The accessibility of the handmade object in today's world seems vital
and radical, and hopefully tempers our hunger for 'progress' and
rationality" - , Michael Kline
Darnie Sizemore on wed 14 jun 06
Michele,
I have had the same problem. One solution was to
scratch the area first before applying the slip.
Darnie
--- Michele D'Amico wrote:
> I wanted to slip trail a design on a piece of
> greenware. I mixed up a slip
> of the same clay as the pot with some water and
> sodium silicate. As soon
> as the slip dried, it popped right off the pot. Can
> I get some ideas on
> how to get the slip to stick to the pot? Thanks,
> Michele
> damicom@cruzio.com
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
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mudduck on wed 23 dec 09
I've begun trying my hand at some slip trailing, applying a dragonfly to =
=3D
flat trays. The slip that I mixed is not sticking very well. Some times =3D
sticking some times popping partly off as it is drying even before =3D
bisque. I have been applying the slip at the leather hard stage.
I'm making my slip out of porcelain and applying it to stoneware, so =3D
there will be color contrast when glazed. The mixture is just some =3D
porcelain blended into magic water (one gallon water a little soda ash =3D
and a little sodium silicate) the exact recipe is at the studio. Mixed =3D
rather thick so it will stay raised up when applied.=3D20
Does anyone have a better, sticks to anything recipe using porcelain for =
=3D
the slip recipe??
Thanks!!!
Gene
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
James Freeman on thu 24 dec 09
On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 9:11 PM, mudduck wrote=
:
Does anyone have a better, sticks to anything recipe using porcelain for th=
e
slip recipe??
Gene...
When I was using stoneware clay I was having the same problem; slip applied
thickly to leather hard ware would pop off after the bisque (but did not po=
p
off if it was applied to freshly thrown clay). A friend gave me his slip
recipe, and I never had the problem again. It is now used by a number of
people at the local college at all temperatures and on all types of clay,
and it has not popped off of anything. It takes stains and colorants well.
Here is the recipe:
Clay name: IB Remsen Trailing Slip
Cone: 10
Color: White
Testing: Tested
Usage: slip trailing
Firing: oxidation or reduction
Plasticity:
Recipe: Percent
Tile #6 Clay 50.00
OM-4 Ball Clay 10.00
Silica 20.00
Custer Feldspar 20.00
Totals: 100 %
Comments:
Mix 1000 grams clay to 1 quart water, then thin to suit.
For blue, add 2-4% CoCO3 or stains
Possible Health Hazards:
Silica: free silica-wear a NIOSH approved dust mask when handling dry
material
Estimated Thermal Expansion =3D x10-6 /deg. C
Unity Formula for Ingredients::
0.488 K2O 5.170 Al2O3 22.761 SiO2
0.224 Na2O 0.042 Fe2O3 0.216 TiO2
0.118 CaO 4.4:1 Si:Al Ratio
0.170 MgO
Percentage Analysis for Trailing Slip - IB Remsen:
68.65 % SiO2
26.47 % Al2O3
2.31 % K2O
0.70 % Na2O
0.33 % CaO
0.34 % MgO
0.34 % Fe2O3
0.87 % TiO2
Good luck!
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/clayart/
Dennis Gerasimov on thu 24 dec 09
Your problem is using porcelain on top of stoneware. Porcelain has very
high drying shrinkage rate, which causes it to pop off. Try a white
stoneware slip instead.
Dennis
On 12/23/2009 09:11 PM, mudduck wrote:
> I've begun trying my hand at some slip trailing, applying a dragonfly to =
flat trays. The slip that I mixed is not sticking very well. Some times sti=
cking some times popping partly off as it is drying even before bisque. I h=
ave been applying the slip at the leather hard stage.
>
> I'm making my slip out of porcelain and applying it to stoneware, so ther=
e will be color contrast when glazed. The mixture is just some porcelain bl=
ended into magic water (one gallon water a little soda ash and a little sod=
ium silicate) the exact recipe is at the studio. Mixed rather thick so it w=
ill stay raised up when applied.
>
> Does anyone have a better, sticks to anything recipe using porcelain for =
the slip recipe??
>
> Thanks!!!
> Gene
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
> www.mudduckpottery.net
>
Craig Martell on thu 24 dec 09
Gene was saying:
>The slip that I mixed is not sticking very well. Some times sticking some
>times popping partly off as it is drying even before bisque. I have been
>applying the slip at the leather hard stage.
>Does anyone have a better, sticks to anything recipe using porcelain for
>the slip recipe??
Hello Gene:
This sounds like the usual shrinkage differential problem. We can make
most slips work just fine with some adjustments.
You can control the water/dry weight ratio first and see if this helps. I
mix slips with a 1ml water to 1 gram dry weight ratio and then add Darvan
until they are at the correct consistency. If you try the 1ml to 1 gram
ratio and the slips are too thin just cut the water and skip the
Darvan. The idea is: less water equals less raw shrinkage. Some Ball
Clay in the slip will help if your porcelain does not contain any Ball.
Another thing you can do is calcine some dry porcelain to about 1500 F. and
then make the trailing mix with 50% raw and 50% calcined slip. This really
cuts the raw shrinkage. I've used this mix with few problems. I've even
trailed it on bisque and it stays put.
You can also do shrinkage tests of your stoneware clay and different
porcelains and find one that's closer in shrinkage rate. Nice thing here
is you don't have to fire the tests because you are looking at raw
shrinkage so it's easy to get a lot done in just one day.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
Ron Roy on fri 25 dec 09
Hi Gene,
Best to deflocc the slip with Darvan - I use Darvan #7 - add a drop at
a time till the clip thins - stirring all the time. The reaction is a
little delayed so don't rush it. I would then add powdered clay (same
clay) till it thickened again (messy to do) add more Darvan till it
thins agin - add more dry - keep doing that till the Darvan will not
make it go thin anymore - it's then deflocced and will stay uncracked
while drying on leather hard.
The problem with magic water is it has both flocculaters and defloccers.
Let me know if you have any questions.
If you are decorating plates or platters do it before you trim.
RR
Quoting mudduck :
> I've begun trying my hand at some slip trailing, applying a
> dragonfly to flat trays. The slip that I mixed is not sticking very
> well. Some times sticking some times popping partly off as it is
> drying even before bisque. I have been applying the slip at the
> leather hard stage.
>
> I'm making my slip out of porcelain and applying it to stoneware, so
> there will be color contrast when glazed. The mixture is just some
> porcelain blended into magic water (one gallon water a little soda
> ash and a little sodium silicate) the exact recipe is at the studio.
> Mixed rather thick so it will stay raised up when applied.
>
> Does anyone have a better, sticks to anything recipe using porcelain
> for the slip recipe??
>
> Thanks!!!
> Gene
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
> www.mudduckpottery.net
>
Neon-Cat on sat 26 dec 09
Ron wrote: "The problem with magic water is it has both flocculaters
and defloccers."
Gene described Magic Water as he uses it as "one gallon water a little
soda ash and a little sodium silicate".
Can you elaborate on your statement, Ron?
Here is a nice article from Digitalfire Ceramics:
Deflocculants: A Detailed Overview
By Dr. Nilo Tozzi
http://digitalfire.us/4sight/education/deflocculants_a_detailed_overview_32=
4.html
Marian
www.neon-cat.com
Ron Roy on sun 27 dec 09
I seem to remember there were more than two ingredients and one being vineg=
ar.
Perhaps someone would care to post the original recipe again - I don't
have a copy.
If there are only sodium compounds then there are no flocculators.
RR
Quoting Neon-Cat :
> Ron wrote: "The problem with magic water is it has both flocculaters
> and defloccers."
> Gene described Magic Water as he uses it as "one gallon water a little
> soda ash and a little sodium silicate".
> Can you elaborate on your statement, Ron?
>
> Here is a nice article from Digitalfire Ceramics:
>
> Deflocculants: A Detailed Overview
> By Dr. Nilo Tozzi
> http://digitalfire.us/4sight/education/deflocculants_a_detailed_overview_=
324.html
>
> Marian
> www.neon-cat.com
>
Bill Merrill on thu 17 jun 10
For those of you that are just starting to do slip trailing her is a
good way to wet your slip.
=3D20
Weigh out a 1000 grams of you slip formula.
=3D20
Add just enough water to make it into a thick paste. Add a touch more
water, but it should remain a paste.
=3D20
Then add and drop of Darvan 7. Stir the mix ....add another drop or two
and stir again. The slip will liquefy as Darvan is added. Add drops of
Darvan until you get the desired results. If you use a vile of water
you can keep track of the amount of water you have added. Do the same
for the Darvan, keep track of how many drops you have added. This way
you can get the same results each time.
Be careful how much water you additionally add as the slip will become
too thin.
=3D20
When you get what you feel is a good consistency, cover it and let the
clay in the slip become wet (the water goes in between the platelets of
the particles. The more plastic slips will require more water.
That's what makes the slip trail nicely. I have heard of potters who
have used Karo syrup in their slip...never tried it though.
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