vince pitelka on mon 18 sep 00
I have never found a commercially-produced pottery stool or chair which I
thought was satisfactory. Over the years I have come to feel that the most
comfortable, and healthiest seat for pottery is a well-padded bench, tilted
slightly forwards, located at the level of the wheelhead, with both the
wheel and bench raised enough so that your thighs slope slightly downwards
while you are throwing. I can throw all day in this position without any
leg or back problems. Obviously this only works with a wheel with moveable,
detached pedal, so that you can raise the wheel and keep the pedal and your
feet at ground level.
As we know, it is healthy and comfortable to throw standing up, and many
studio potters have chosen this alternative. But far too few people know
that there is a very satisfactory solution which lies between the crunched
bent seating position that most stock wheels require, and a full standing up
position. The above position is very healthy, because it maintains good
circulation to your legs.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Veena Raghavan on tue 19 sep 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
.. Over the years I have come to feel that the most
comfortable, and healthiest seat for pottery is a well-padded bench, tilted
slightly forwards, located at the level of the wheelhead, with both the
wheel and bench raised enough so that your thighs slope slightly downwards
while you are throwing. I can throw all day in this position without any
leg or back problems. Obviously this only works with a wheel with
moveable,
detached pedal, so that you can raise the wheel and keep the pedal and your
feet at ground level.
- Vince
<
Hi Vince,
Thanks for the timely advice. I am still without a stool, having
decided to wait and see if I could pick up something at a reasonable price.
In the meantime, I am using an old kitchen stool, a bit too high for
comfort, but it will do until I find something. I was the one, who first
started this thread, so I thank you for your input.
All the best.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
NLudd@AOL.COM on tue 19 sep 00
Hello Veena
I agree with Vince. I've used this method for years. It has been completely=20
effective against back strain while throwing/centering. If you must sit at a=
=20
wheel, sit like this.=20
All points bulletin to throwers - Avoid a low squat like the plague!!=20
best,
Ned
Vince wrote
>. Over the years I have come to feel that the most
>comfortable, and healthiest seat for pottery is a well-padded bench, tilted
>slightly forwards, located at the level of the wheelhead, with both the
>wheel and bench raised enough so that your thighs slope slightly downwards
>while you are throwing. I can throw all day in this position without any
>leg or back problems. Obviously this only works with a wheel with
>moveable,
>detached pedal, so that you can raise the wheel and keep the pedal and
>your
>feet at ground level.
>- Vince
><
=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=
=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97=97
Veena (75124.2520@COMPUSERVE.COM) wrote
>Hi Vince,
> Thanks for the timely advice. I am still without a stool, having
>decided to wait and see if I could pick up something at a reasonable price.
>In the meantime, I am using an old kitchen stool, a bit too high for
>comfort, but it will do until I find something. I was the one, who first
>started this thread, so I thank you for your input.
> All the best.
>Veena
>
>
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520@compuserve.com
Veena Raghavan on wed 20 sep 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>I agree with Vince. I've used this method for years. It has been
completely
effective against back strain while throwing/centering. If you must sit at
a
wheel, sit like this. <
Ned,
Thanks for your post. I must now find a way to raise up my wheel.
Not being a do-it-yourselfer (nor is my significant other), I will try to
find something readymade, so I can follow Vince's instructions.
All the best.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
amy parker on wed 20 sep 00
Hey Veena - cut the legs down on that stool! You can use a pipe cutter on
them if they are round metal legs instead of wooden!
I am all too aware of the problem of not having my feet touch the ground
unless I'm standing up!
Amy
>Hi Vince,
> Thanks for the timely advice. I am still without a stool, having
>decided to wait and see if I could pick up something at a reasonable price.
>In the meantime, I am using an old kitchen stool, a bit too high for
>comfort, but it will do until I find something. I was the one, who first
>started this thread, so I thank you for your input.
> All the best.
>Veena
Amy Parker
Lithonia, GA
Marvpots@AOL.COM on wed 20 sep 00
For Veena Raghaven:
A simple stand can be made from 4x4 pressure treated (or plain) stock with a
one inch thick top of plywood. The size (i.e., dimensions of the top) will
be determined by the position of the feet of the wheel so that the wheel can
be lifted easily (by a couple of strong arms!) onto the stand, which you can
make to whatever height you like. I found 14 inches high to be ideal for me.
A suitable stool to enable you to sit and work at that height completes the
picture.
I find that even if you have a wheel with a fixed foot pedal, making it
almost impossible to use with your foot after you have raised the wheel, you
do not have to stop and start the whell motion as often as one does with an
accessible foot pedal since you will, in practice, be running the wheel at
only a few different speeds, and the adjustments to the arm control (I'm
thinking of Shimpo wheels where the foot pedal and an arm control are one
fixed piece) can be made with the nudge of an elbow, or, a sticky hand.
Otherwise just let the wheel run, rather than stopping it, until you're ready
to work at the wheel again. Not complicated, requires very little
paraphenalia and works.
Let me know how you make out.
All the best.
Marvin Flowerman (marvpots@aol.com)
Gail Dapogny on wed 20 sep 00
Veena,
At our guild, we use short (18 inches or so) lengths of railroad ties for
this purpose. They are easier to move (for cleaning) than concrete blocks.
---Gail
>
>Ned,
> Thanks for your post. I must now find a way to raise up my wheel.
>Not being a do-it-yourselfer (nor is my significant other), I will try to
>find something readymade, so I can follow Vince's instructions.
> All the best.
>Veena
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
www.silverhawk.com/ex99/dapogny
Marni Turkel on wed 20 sep 00
To add to thread on seating at a potter's wheel:
My all-time favorite chair for working at the wheel is a good office chair
or computer chair, one where the seat tilts forward or back and the seat
height can be raised or lowered. You can get the same forward slope that
Vince mentions for good circulation in your legs. I am tall, so I work with
the wheel up on 6" cement blocks and use the chair with its seat as high as
I can put it for throwing. For trimming I use the chair seat as low as it
will go so my hands are up almost chest high. It felt a little silly
trimming in this position at first, but I came to really like it. I found
that the different heights took a lot of the stress off of my back and by
varying my working posture I was much more comfortable at the end of the
day.
Marni
Marni Turkel
Stony Point Ceramic Design
2080 Llano Rd 1B
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
Pottery: 707-579-5567
Office: 707-579-9511
Fax: 707-579-1116
Earl Brunner on thu 21 sep 00
OK, what about creosote on the railroad ties. It oozes out
of the ones around here. Maybe it's the temperature?
Veena Raghavan wrote:
>
> Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> >
> Veena,
> At our guild, we use short (18 inches or so) lengths of railroad ties for
> this purpose. They are easier to move (for cleaning) than concrete blocks.
> <
>
> Gail,
> Thanks so much for the tip. Now, where do I get railroad ties? I
> had no idea you get get these.
> Thanks again and, once again, in advance.
> All the best.
>
> Veena
>
> Veena Raghavan
> 75124.2520@compuserve.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Veena Raghavan on thu 21 sep 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
Veena,
At our guild, we use short (18 inches or so) lengths of railroad ties for
this purpose. They are easier to move (for cleaning) than concrete blocks.
<
Gail,
Thanks so much for the tip. Now, where do I get railroad ties? I
had no idea you get get these.
Thanks again and, once again, in advance.
All the best.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Susan Fox Hirschmann on thu 21 sep 00
Veena,
YOu can get rr ties, right near where you live, at Merrifield Garden Center.,
Lee hwy and Gallows rd. (hate the name of that road, a horrible civil war
relic from living here in VA.
Tis me, susan, your )almost ) neighbor.
You ARE getting it together. I know it!
take care
susan
vince pitelka on fri 22 sep 00
> I am concerned about railroad ties.
> They are pressure treated with...
> I have no idea what.. perhaps creosote.
> However I feel it is not a good idea to
> have them in an enclosed area.
The concern about creosote is well founded. You do not want to be breathing
the fumes. But I don't get it. Why not just concrete blocks? You can
purchasethem in 6" or 8" thicknesses, plus you can purchase cap blocks in 2"
or 3" thicknesses, so you can get just about any thickness you want for
raising your wheel.
Ultimately, I think it pays to build a wood platform with a low ridge around
the edge to hold the wheel in place. Better yet, hire a welder to make leg
extensions. If you have one of those big plastic Creative Industries
wheels, then you are on your own, but otherwise it is no problem to weld
steel extensions on the legs of most power wheels. It'll be a cheap
permanent fix.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Gayle Bair on fri 22 sep 00
Veena,
I am concerned about railroad ties.
They are pressure treated with...
I have no idea what.. perhaps creosote.
However I feel it is not a good idea to
have them in an enclosed area.
There must be some other wood that is not
a potential danger to you that you could use.
I may just be overly concerned but indulge
me and check into it.
Gayle Bair
Snip>
Veena,
YOu can get rr ties, right near where you live, at Merrifield Garden
Center.,
Snip>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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Gail Dapogny on sat 23 sep 00
You may be right. However, there are lots of fake railroad ties around
(same shape and size, but don't seem treated) and that's what we have. A
lot of nurseries have them.
Good observation, though.
----Gail
>Veena,
>I am concerned about railroad ties.
>They are pressure treated with...
>I have no idea what.. perhaps creosote.
>However I feel it is not a good idea to
>have them in an enclosed area.
>There must be some other wood that is not
>a potential danger to you that you could use.
>I may just be overly concerned but indulge
>me and check into it.
>Gayle Bair
>
>Snip>
>Veena,
>YOu can get rr ties, right near where you live, at Merrifield Garden
>Center.,
DYAN777@AOL.COM on sat 23 sep 00
I have one of the Creative Industries wheels.
After reading John Glick's article on back injuries (I was in an industrial
accident) I raised my wheel to waist height on stacked patio blocks (8x16x2).
The wide base on the wheel makes it very stable. I also use these blocks
under my electric kiln so that I have more clearance for the envirovent
mounted below it. Home depot sells these blocks for next to nothing, I may
have spent $12.
I also would like to use this forum for thanking John Glick and the people at
Giffin for publishing information on the concept of throwing in the standing
position. I cried when I realized that I might never throw clay on the wheel
again but found encouragement in John's articles.
At NCECA last spring I would have liked to tell John what an impact this
information had on my life and my physical rehabilitation but our paths never
crossed. (I am a shy, not in your face sort anyway.)
I would like to encourage anyone who has every thought about "throwing up" as
John refers to the method to give it a whirl and listen to your heart sing.
D Ayers
Robbinsdale MN
USA
Earl Brunner on sat 23 sep 00
The railroad ties in nurseries around here are not fake,
they are recycled.
Gail Dapogny wrote:
>
> You may be right. However, there are lots of fake railroad ties around
> (same shape and size, but don't seem treated) and that's what we have. A
> lot of nurseries have them.
> Good observation, though.
> ----Gail
>
> >Veena,
> >I am concerned about railroad ties.
> >They are pressure treated with...
> >I have no idea what.. perhaps creosote.
> >However I feel it is not a good idea to
> >have them in an enclosed area.
> >There must be some other wood that is not
> >a potential danger to you that you could use.
> >I may just be overly concerned but indulge
> >me and check into it.
> >Gayle Bair
> >
> >Snip>
> >Veena,
> >YOu can get rr ties, right near where you live, at Merrifield Garden
> >Center.,
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Cindy Strnad on sat 23 sep 00
Hi, D Ayers, et al.
I'm glad you found a way to continue throwing. I decided standing to throw
was the way for me when I discovered it was taking me longer and longer to
"un-curve" from my crouched position. It saves a lot of time, too, taking
completed pots to the shelf (for those of us who haven't figured out yet how
to configure our space more conveniently). Actually, I don't mind moving the
pots around. It makes me move (every two pots) and I think that's good for
me.
In case it's of help to anyone, here's how I set my wheel up.
My dad (who can do anything ) built me a low table to set my wheel on.
Unfortunately, I wasn't sure of the height I needed when he built it, and it
turned out to be quite a bit too low. So I've got 3 cement blocks on top of
the table, on which the (Brent) wheel sits. I pushed it up against the wall
(in front of a nice window), and that supplies the support needed to keep it
from sliding. If one wanted to place it otherwise, some sort of bracing
would be needed.
I mounted the foot control on the right side, at knee height, and control
the speed of the wheel with my leg. It works great for me, though it did
take a bit of getting used to.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
vince pitelka on sat 23 sep 00
> You may be right. However, there are lots of fake railroad ties around
> (same shape and size, but don't seem treated) and that's what we have. A
> lot of nurseries have them.
Gail -
I would be very wary of this. I have never heard of "fake" railroad ties.
A hunk of wood that size is very expensive, and no one could afford to buy
them as landscape timbers except when they are recycled from a railroad bed.
The railroad ties you buy at landscaping places are often salvaged when a
railroad line is abandoned. In salvaging even just a few miles of railroad
they get thousands of ties. The recycled ones generally do not have that
"soaked in creosote" look of new railroad ties, but there is still creosote
there, and it is bad stuff.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Home - vpitelka@dekalb.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Gail Dapogny on sun 24 sep 00
Thanks, Vince,
I had no idea. While I don't happen to use the wheels that are raised by
means of these ties, I will pass on the information and do my best to
persuade our guild to rethink their use. ----Gail
>Gail -
>I would be very wary of this. I have never heard of "fake" railroad ties.
>A hunk of wood that size is very expensive, and no one could afford to buy
>them as landscape timbers except when they are recycled from a railroad bed.
>The railroad ties you buy at landscaping places are often salvaged when a
>railroad line is abandoned. In salvaging even just a few miles of railroad
>they get thousands of ties. The recycled ones generally do not have that
>"soaked in creosote" look of new railroad ties, but there is still creosote
>there, and it is bad stuff.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
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