Cindy Strnad on fri 6 oct 00
Hi, Everyone.
Well, I've done my first round of tests with spraying glazes using an =
airbrush. I decided on a Paasch, and am very happy with it. Dixie Art =
Supply was wonderful. I ordered it in the morning, they shipped it in =
the afternoon--same day.
What I've found out so far . . . it takes practice to use an airbrush =
properly (duh). For some reason, I thought I would just pick it up and =
be an automatic expert. Oh well. At any rate, it's not too =
difficult.=20
Most of my glazes need at least three good coats for optimum thickness, =
but I haven't quite got this one down yet. So, here's my question:
a.. What is the name of that tool I've heard about to measure the =
thickness of an applied glaze coat, and where could I find one? I'm sure =
I'll eventually learn by feel when I've got a good enough coat, but I =
don't like splotchy color and would just as soon help myself along in =
the learning process by using good tools.
I really like the airbrush. Having screened my glazes through a 200+ =
(can't remember for sure) mesh screen, I had no clogging the first day, =
and very little clogging several days later, though I didn't re-screen =
the glaze. I was using the finest tip--called, I believe, "01". Three =
tips (01, 03, & 05) came with the kit, but the 01 was installed, and it =
worked just fine. I wanted good definition at the edges, and with a =
little practice, the fine tip gave me a fair amount of that.
For larger areas of glaze, I used my larger Paasch sprayer, though I did =
get tired of switching sprayers, bottles, etc. Switching still saved a =
substantial amount of time.
This method is only appropriate for pieces one intends to mark fairly =
high, as it does take a great deal of time. The pieces I was working on =
were for my personal use, so I didn't mind the extra trouble.=20
Since you were all so helpful to me with spraying advice, I though you =
might be interested in how it was going.
Thanks again,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
jcullen on sat 7 oct 00
Cindy,
I spray all my glazes but I use the bigger spray guns, HVLP gravity fed,
Bailey EZ Sprayer, and a Touch-up spray gun. I mix my glazes thin so I need
10, 15, even 20 coats. I place my piece on a motorized banding wheel and
mark a starting point (I place a bolt on the wheel head) and actually count
the revolutions. I swear someday I will attached a hand counter to the wheel
head and let it do the counting.
This, at least gives me an idea of my coverage. I'm sure with more spraying
I will, at some point know the look and feel of the pot and it's glaze
thickness. But for now, as I'm still experimenting with glaze formulas this
method works for me.
I will say this, more often than not the glaze is applied too thin. With my
setup, I'm not sure if I could apply too much glaze.
Best of LUCK. Happy spraying.
KEEP CENTERED
Cullen
Naperville, Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cindy Strnad"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 7:17 PM
Subject: Spraying Glazes & ? on thickness
Hi, Everyone.
Well, I've done my first round of tests with spraying glazes using an
airbrush. I decided on a Paasch, and am very happy with it. Dixie Art Supply
was wonderful. I ordered it in the morning, they shipped it in the
afternoon--same day.
What I've found out so far . . . it takes practice to use an airbrush
properly (duh). For some reason, I thought I would just pick it up and be an
automatic expert. Oh well. At any rate, it's not too difficult.
Most of my glazes need at least three good coats for optimum thickness, but
I haven't quite got this one down yet. So, here's my question:
a.. What is the name of that tool I've heard about to measure the
thickness of an applied glaze coat, and where could I find one? I'm sure
I'll eventually learn by feel when I've got a good enough coat, but I don't
like splotchy color and would just as soon help myself along in the learning
process by using good tools.
I really like the airbrush. Having screened my glazes through a 200+ (can't
remember for sure) mesh screen, I had no clogging the first day, and very
little clogging several days later, though I didn't re-screen the glaze. I
was using the finest tip--called, I believe, "01". Three tips (01, 03, & 05)
came with the kit, but the 01 was installed, and it worked just fine. I
wanted good definition at the edges, and with a little practice, the fine
tip gave me a fair amount of that.
For larger areas of glaze, I used my larger Paasch sprayer, though I did get
tired of switching sprayers, bottles, etc. Switching still saved a
substantial amount of time.
This method is only appropriate for pieces one intends to mark fairly high,
as it does take a great deal of time. The pieces I was working on were for
my personal use, so I didn't mind the extra trouble.
Since you were all so helpful to me with spraying advice, I though you might
be interested in how it was going.
Thanks again,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
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Martin Howard on sun 8 oct 00
Cullen sprays in a similar way to me, but my glaze is probably a little
thicker.
Glazing on pots at leather hard, single firing, the less water in the glaze
the better, as the pot itself contains quite sufficient.
As the pot goes round on kickwheel or banding wheel, and receives layer
after layer, it steadily gets wetter. That can be controlled a little by
distance of sprayer from ware and jet opening size.
Just before the glaze on the pot starts to dribble down seems to be the time
to stop spraying. :-)
If you glaze at bone dry or on biscuit ware with double firing, then the
surface will be taking in more water and creating good adhesion in that way.
But again, just before the glaze starts to creep down the pot seems to be
the time to stop.
However, if you use a thin glaze of copper on red earthenware you can get
three colours. 1 the natural fired clay; 2 copper red; 3 the
intended turquoise from the copper glaze. So experiment within your own
conditions. Next one for me is with terra sigilata and mocha, single firing,
and firing in a real Roman type kiln.
I did read somewhere about instruments for testing the glaze thickness when
spraying, but cannot see how one would do that with my spraying set up,
without handling the ware more than feels necessary.
Martin Howard
Webb's Cottage Pottery
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE, Essex CM7 5DZ
England
martin@webbscottage.co.uk
Cindy Strnad on sun 8 oct 00
Thanks, Martin.
Your suggestion to spray until just before the glaze begins to
droop/drip/run is very helpful. So now, not to show my ignorance or
anything, but what is a Roman kiln, and why would you want to fire in one?
That sounds like an interesting subject.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
www.earthenvesselssd.com
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