Charles on fri 27 oct 00
OK folks...here's a question and I hope someone has the answer..we want =
to measure twice and cut once...
We at the Creative Oasis were gifted with an old beat up electric kiln =
can fire to cone 6. We want to switch it from electric to gas so we can =
fire up some pretty cone 6 reduction pots. We have taken out all the old =
dead elements, removed the completely fried kiln sitter, now we are =
looking at it and saying..."OK where do we want to put the burner =
holes?" Is there anyone who has done this? any advice would be =
appreciated!
Thanks,
Charles Hughes
Visit my webpage...
http://www.thecreativeoasis.com/Hughes/hughes.html
ferenc jakab on sat 28 oct 00
We at the Creative Oasis were gifted with an old beat up electric kiln can
fire to cone 6. We want to switch it from electric to gas so we can fire up
some pretty cone 6 reduction pots. We have taken out all the old dead
elements, removed the completely fried kiln sitter, now we are looking at it
and saying..."OK where do we want to put the burner holes?" Is there anyone
who has done this? any advice would be appreciated!
Charles,
I have done just this recently. I inserted my burner ports from the bottom
diagonally opposed. Mine is a rectangular kiln with a vertical front door
(front loader). the ports are 3" in diameter and the burners are 1.5" with a
pilot and thermocouple operated automatic cut-out running on LPG. I replaced
the wall bricks with RI 26 insulating fire bricks and sheathed the kiln with
a layer of fibre before replacing the stainless steel exterior, as the
original bricks were damaged by melted terracotta. Finish with a kilnwash or
ITC.
Pay careful attention to the positioning of the flue and its size. Mine is
down draft with the flue grate opposite the door 9" square. When I first
calculated the flue size I made a mistake in my maths and built it half the
necessary size. Double check everything. Think also about venting the flue
and positioning before you have to cut the hole in the roof. I.e don't
position it under a beam. Check all your local safety regs and national
standards for gas appliances.
My kiln works very satisfactorily now and cost me about $500.oo as opposed
to $4-8000 for second hand or new front loading gas kilns. E-mail if you
want more info. I'm in Australia so I can't help with local regulations.
Good references are Rhodes, Kilns, design, construction and operation, and
Olsen, The Kiln Book. Ignore Rhodes' chimney height specifications but not
his flue opening and chimney width advice. Six to eight feet of chimney
venting into a canopy extending approximately another eight feet will be
sufficient. I'm assuming your kiln is approximately the same size as mine or
smaller. ( 23 cu')
Feri.
Steve Mills on sat 28 oct 00
In message , Charles writes
>OK folks...here's a question and I hope someone has the answer..we want =3D
>to measure twice and cut once...
>
>We at the Creative Oasis were gifted with an old beat up electric kiln =3D
>can fire to cone 6. We want to switch it from electric to gas so we can =3D
>fire up some pretty cone 6 reduction pots. We have taken out all the old =
>=3D
>dead elements, removed the completely fried kiln sitter, now we are =3D
>looking at it and saying..."OK where do we want to put the burner =3D
>holes?" Is there anyone who has done this? any advice would be =3D
>appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charles Hughes
>
Charles we have done this; we put a single Burner at the bottom of the
kiln coming in from the side so that the flame moved in a clockwise
spiral (northern hemisphere, Coliaris effect). In the Lid we cut a slot
with an area equal to 1 1/2 times the burner hole, this is better than
having a round hole in the lid; as a slot acts as a form of baffle
preventing the fire from exiting too quickly. two small pieces of brick
at either end of the slot act as dampers. The burner we used has a
diameter of 2 in. so the hole we cut for it was 3 in. in diameter.
Hope this helps.
Steve
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Timothy Wright on sat 28 oct 00
try this link to a company that sell conversion s fro kilns
http://swiftweb.com/summit/
>From: Charles
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Converting kiln
>Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 15:50:24 -0400
>
>OK folks...here's a question and I hope someone has the answer..we want to
>measure twice and cut once...
>
>We at the Creative Oasis were gifted with an old beat up electric kiln can
>fire to cone 6. We want to switch it from electric to gas so we can fire up
>some pretty cone 6 reduction pots. We have taken out all the old dead
>elements, removed the completely fried kiln sitter, now we are looking at
>it and saying..."OK where do we want to put the burner holes?" Is there
>anyone who has done this? any advice would be appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charles Hughes
>
>
>
>Visit my webpage...
>http://www.thecreativeoasis.com/Hughes/hughes.html
>
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Charles on sun 29 oct 00
Thanks for Steve Mills, Ferenc and Greg for their advice....
This is a roundish kiln...not a square, I think Steve Mills might have =
the right idea for us, but I am not sure, have to lay it all out and =
discuss it some more. Thanks again!
Charles
Visit my webpage...
http://www.thecreativeoasis.com/Hughes/hughes.html
Vivi Escolar on mon 30 oct 00
go to summit kilns. I bought a conversion from for my electric kiln and =
turned it to natural gas.It works fine and they give you the =
instructions as to the size of the flute in relation to burners. Peter =
Addessi is the man at summit. Hope this helps
Vivi
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