Nils Lou on thu 2 nov 00
I will respond with a small comment. Noting that Roger Bourland didn't get
reduction on his first try. I agree with Mel that he might need a bigger
burner, but maybe just more gas would do. Thing is, I don't use a damper
plate on the top hole; I give it enough gas so I get a flame out of that
1-1/2" hole from 1650 on. The burner really functions as a valving device
to get gas into the kiln where the kiln is a combustion chamber. Pretty
simple, actually. So, I gas it after reaching temp (C010) on
electric--make sure
there is a flame out the top hole--you will have reduction guaranteed.
All the prep advice boss said is right on. neat stuff. Nils
On Thu, 2 Nov 2000, mel jacobson wrote:
> several people are working on this project and i thought
> i should send through the instructions again.
>
> i have had some questions and thought i should
> go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
>
> gas/electric kiln.
> as taught to me by nils lou.
> take one electric kiln.
> take it all apart...clean it very well.
>
> brush out all the debris, and wash it.
> yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
> hard.
> drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
> lid of the kiln.
>
> order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
>
> clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
>
> coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
> follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
> (kurt has used an old blender with 213. add water and material half and half
> and blend the hell out of it. )
>
> hang them to dry.
>
> wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
> spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
> the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
>
> let it dry.
>
> install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
> re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
>
> make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
> make them shine.
>
> spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
> it is all covered....well.
>
> dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
>
> i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
> let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
> coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
> out the coils into the electrical.
>
> buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
> connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
> connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
> we installed a regulator.
>
> load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
>
> fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
>
> turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
> kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
>
> place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
> you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
> the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
>
> we fired to cone 10.
> about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
> turn off gas.
> button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
> we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
> reds in the kiln.
>
> open kiln.
> nice red, shino, good body color.
>
> typical stoneware reduction firing.
> and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
> maybe two hours second day.
> mel
> perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
>
> for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
> will not work. buy new.
>
> i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
> used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
> soft brick surface to coat with itc.
>
> we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
> rim of the kiln...want that tight.
>
> we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
> you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
> but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
> you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
>
> we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
> just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
> the main electric cable of the kiln.
>
> this entire project is in the experimental stages...please
> use caution, do not start the kiln with gas, and then go
> shopping. monitor the heat around the kiln and walls etc.
> make sure you are getting back pressure from the spy holes.
> you may have to alter the gas pressure...increase it if you
> are not getting back pressure...or, close of the top hole more.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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>
mel jacobson on thu 2 nov 00
several people are working on this project and i thought
i should send through the instructions again.
i have had some questions and thought i should
go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
gas/electric kiln.
as taught to me by nils lou.
take one electric kiln.
take it all apart...clean it very well.
brush out all the debris, and wash it.
yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
hard.
drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
lid of the kiln.
order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
(kurt has used an old blender with 213. add water and material half and half
and blend the hell out of it. )
hang them to dry.
wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
let it dry.
install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
make them shine.
spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
it is all covered....well.
dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
out the coils into the electrical.
buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
we installed a regulator.
load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
we fired to cone 10.
about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
turn off gas.
button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
reds in the kiln.
open kiln.
nice red, shino, good body color.
typical stoneware reduction firing.
and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
maybe two hours second day.
mel
perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
will not work. buy new.
i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
soft brick surface to coat with itc.
we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
rim of the kiln...want that tight.
we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
the main electric cable of the kiln.
this entire project is in the experimental stages...please
use caution, do not start the kiln with gas, and then go
shopping. monitor the heat around the kiln and walls etc.
make sure you are getting back pressure from the spy holes.
you may have to alter the gas pressure...increase it if you
are not getting back pressure...or, close of the top hole more.
FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
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