michael wendt on fri 10 nov 00
Jackie,
I don't know about your application, but when I want to do multiple layer
effects with glazes that crawl when they are re-wet, I bisque fire the
pieces between coats and that sinters the glaze enough so that it doesn't
crawl. It might work for you too. Why not try a small tile using your target
method first and if it doesn't work, then try my suggestion and see if it
works.
Good Luck,
Michael Wendt
-----Original Message-----
From: Jackie Richards
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Saturday, November 11, 2000 6:44 PM
Subject: Maiolica application
>Can someone please advise if it is necessary to paint maiolica glazes on
your
>piece in one painting session, or can it be extended over a period of time.
>I have looked at many sources and no one seems to address that question.
But
>somewhere I thought I read that if you don't finish your painting in one
>session the glazes can pull away from each other. Since I plan to do some
>intricate designs, this can impact my timing. I plan to do a glaze of
black,
>wax resist over that in my partial design and then apply white maiolica
glaze
>and then my colors. But hopefully not in one day! Thanks for information.
>Jackie
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jackie Richards on sat 11 nov 00
Can someone please advise if it is necessary to paint maiolica glazes on your
piece in one painting session, or can it be extended over a period of time.
I have looked at many sources and no one seems to address that question. But
somewhere I thought I read that if you don't finish your painting in one
session the glazes can pull away from each other. Since I plan to do some
intricate designs, this can impact my timing. I plan to do a glaze of black,
wax resist over that in my partial design and then apply white maiolica glaze
and then my colors. But hopefully not in one day! Thanks for information.
Jackie
Ann Hunter on sun 12 nov 00
>Can someone please advise if it is necessary to paint maiolica glazes on your
>piece in one painting session, or can it be extended over a period of time.
>I have looked at many sources and no one seems to address that question. But
>somewhere I thought I read that if you don't finish your painting in one
>session the glazes can pull away from each other. Since I plan to do some
>intricate designs, this can impact my timing. I plan to do a glaze of black,
>wax resist over that in my partial design and then apply white maiolica glaze
>and then my colors. But hopefully not in one day! Thanks for information.
>Jackie
>
Jackie,
I am not quite sure about your application of a black then a white
glaze, but I will share my experience in regards to timing. I
generally try to wax feet and dip a kiln load of work in the white
maiolica base glaze. I clean off the feet with a sponge as soon as
they are dry enough to handle. Then I prefer to leave them
overnight (or several hours) before I start decorating. They are
just easier to handle if they have had plenty of time to dry. I
sometimes use wax resist to make lines and have found that I like to
use the wax decoration on a number of pieces before I go back to add
stain/frit painting. In any case, I have never had any problems with
delays between start and finish of a piece. Good luck.
-Ann
Wichita Falls, TX
Janet Kaiser on sun 12 nov 00
Dear Jackie
I am a bit hazy about your question regarding
maiolica glazes (plural). Do you mean the oxides
and stains applied to the ground glaze? Or the
glazes in the areas you are going to define
using the CUERDA SECA resist method?
After applying the ground glaze (usually white)
teachers will usually say stains/oxides have to
be applied whilst it is not wet, but still sort
of damp although not quite dry BUT Alan
Caiger-Smith apparently applies his pigments
(maiolica technique) onto a bone dry glaze, so
it is definitely possible. Whether you can mix
damp and dry applications? You would need to
test.
I presume it will depend on how powdery your
ground glaze becomes when dry. You may find
adding a binder would help. Gum Arabic was the
traditional one of course. Sugar or syrup is
another option, but that should not be added to
a whole batch of glaze! Just enough to work with
over a short time (unless you want glaze beer?).
Cuerda Seca has always been something of a
painstaking method and because the areas are
divided by the resist it does not matter (in my
experience) how or when they are applied with
glaze. I tried out the traditional Spanish
(Moorish) linseed oil and manganese mix at
college with a good deal of success, but that
was so long ago, I am afraid I cannot remember
the finer details. I do remember everyone else
used coloured/stained wax as the resist at the
time, so I had to raid the art studio for
linseed.
I have just gone back to read your post again...
Duh! Sorry! You want to apply black glaze +
resist + white glaze + colours. Well, Jackie
this is a lot of work, some of which is probably
unnecessary. Look up some of those sources you
mention again and read what they say about the
Cuerda Seca. The black of the resist will be
enough. So white glaze + resist (stained wax or
linseed mix) + colours in the spaces. It will
also stop possible leaching of the black glaze
through the other layers.
Good luck. I hope someone else can be more
helpful.
Janet Kaiser
The Chapel of Art . Capel Celfyddyd
HOME OF THE INTERNATIONAL POTTERS' PATH
Criccieth LL52 0EA, GB-Wales Tel: (01766) 523570
E-mail: postbox@the-coa.org.uk
WEBSITE: http://www.the-coa.org.uk
scott lykens on mon 13 nov 00
jackie, i do something sort of the opposite of one session but more like
bisgueing.
i usually decorate a lot of stuff at a time. i'll make work for a while then
bisque and finish up hte complicated peices. finally when i have no more
room to make wet work. i clean up my studio and paint for days and days. I
white a kiln load or two or three. (depends on the kiln)
then I call it a day. the next day I begin painting over the white. one
color at a time until everything is done, then two, three, four , five,
whatever it needs. then black outline. then final touches. then when
everything it real dry i start to load. usually ive glazed for a few weeks
at a time. I like the imersion in drawing and the dry time seems to be
somewhere between wet on wet and bisque in between. oh i also cover stuff
lightly with plastic ,after its dry enough not to hurt,
before i leave the studio for a long time, like bedtime or pop up business
trips.
i havent had much problem with crawling. when i have giving that long soak
in the beginning and end of the firing takes it up.
sct
>From: michael wendt
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Maiolica application
>Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 20:32:29 -0800
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [209.115.31.35] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBBD7EB7000ADD821979BD1731F2311141; Sun Nov 12 05:52:08 2000
>Received: from LSV (209.115.31.36) by mail.acers (Worldmail 1.3.167); 12
>Nov 2000 08:39:58 -0500
>Received: from LSV.CERAMICS.ORG by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (LISTSERV-TCP/IP
>release 1.8d) with spool id 58841 for CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG;
>Sun, 12 Nov 2000 08:43:33 -0500
>Received: from 207.141.26.9 by LSV.CERAMICS.ORG (SMTPL release 1.0d) with
>TCP; Sat, 11 Nov 2000 23:24:28 -0400
>Received: from computer (k246035.lew.dialup.fsr.net [204.52.246.35]) by
> whale.fsr.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with SMTP id UAA34230 for
>; Sat, 11 Nov 2000 20:32:36 -0800 (PST)
>(envelope-from wendtpot@lewiston.com)
>From owner-clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG Sun Nov 12 05:52:25 2000
>Approved-By: joycelee@IWVISP.COM
>X-Priority: 3
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
>Message-ID: <00f801c04b98$6876c420$25d8120c@computer>
>Sender: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>
>Jackie,
>I don't know about your application, but when I want to do multiple layer
>effects with glazes that crawl when they are re-wet, I bisque fire the
>pieces between coats and that sinters the glaze enough so that it doesn't
>crawl. It might work for you too. Why not try a small tile using your
>target
>method first and if it doesn't work, then try my suggestion and see if it
>works.
>Good Luck,
>Michael Wendt
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jackie Richards
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Date: Saturday, November 11, 2000 6:44 PM
>Subject: Maiolica application
>
>
> >Can someone please advise if it is necessary to paint maiolica glazes on
>your
> >piece in one painting session, or can it be extended over a period of
>time.
> >I have looked at many sources and no one seems to address that question.
>But
> >somewhere I thought I read that if you don't finish your painting in one
> >session the glazes can pull away from each other. Since I plan to do
>some
> >intricate designs, this can impact my timing. I plan to do a glaze of
>black,
> >wax resist over that in my partial design and then apply white maiolica
>glaze
> >and then my colors. But hopefully not in one day! Thanks for
>information.
> >Jackie
> >
> >___________________________________________________________________________
>___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
http://profiles.msn.com.
| |
|
