Snail Scott on mon 13 nov 00
Some dark colors 'bleed' and stain lighter ones. Try firing the
'stain/patina' layer to an even lower temp. If it's not functional
ware, how about 'room temperature glaze'? (also called 'paint'!)
-Snail
At 05:12 PM 11/13/00 CST, you wrote:
>hi,
>
>i'm trying out this new idea where i coat my pots, which are covered with
>layers of texture, with colored terra sig. i then fire to cone 04. then, i
>want to put a patina or wash of diff color than the terra sig over my pots.
>once the patina/wash is dried, i wipe off most of it leaving the patina in
>the crevices of the texture. the patina gives the pots an aged look and it
>brings out the textures. i'm then firing to cone 6 in my electric kiln.
>
>the problem i'm having is that i can't seem to get colors other than black
>and brown. i'm using mason stains to color my terra sig and i'm using mason
>and inclusion stains for the patina wash. problem is that if the background
>(terra sig) is dark, my lighter colors like greens and purples and yellows
>and greys are not showing up, especially green. on the green, i want them
>to look like the green patina on aged bronze.
>
>i'm a high fire cone 10 gal and to do this and at cone 6 and in an electric
>kiln is a huge leap. any help is greatly appreciated.
>
>grace
>
Cindy Strnad on mon 13 nov 00
Grace,
You're not going to get any kind of true colors by applying non-opacified
colors over your dark terra sig. I use a brown clay, and when I want colors,
I paint the bisqued clay with a thin slip made of EPK and water. It just
happens to fit my bisque-fired clay, so I'm lucky, I guess. I didn't think
it would, but I'm lazy enough to always try the easiest thing first.
Maybe you could apply a slip or engobe in the same way as you're doing with
the Mason Stains, and then apply the Mason stains over that. If the slip
doesn't stay on, you could repeat your bisque firing (or even do a much
lower temp firing just to harden the slip a bit) before applying the Mason
Stains.
One caveat, however: unaltered Mason Stains will not always sinter to your
pot at ^6. I mix mine with Frit 3134 (though I expect other frits will work)
at a ratio of about half and half. I still get a dull to somewhat metallic
look, depending on the thickness of application and the color of the stain.
If you apply them too thickly, they'll crack off the pot, so watch out for
that.
Another thing I'm thinking of trying is to add in some Zircopax or other
opacifier with the frit/stain mixture to see if this will allow the stains
to stand alone on a dark body without first coating the area with white
slip.
Of course, if you go adding scratchy things like Zircopax, you'll probably
want to sieve the mixture to make sure it won't mar your nice terra sig
coating too much.
I hope my musing is of some use to you,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Grace Sheese on mon 13 nov 00
hi,
i'm trying out this new idea where i coat my pots, which are covered with
layers of texture, with colored terra sig. i then fire to cone 04. then, i
want to put a patina or wash of diff color than the terra sig over my pots.
once the patina/wash is dried, i wipe off most of it leaving the patina in
the crevices of the texture. the patina gives the pots an aged look and it
brings out the textures. i'm then firing to cone 6 in my electric kiln.
the problem i'm having is that i can't seem to get colors other than black
and brown. i'm using mason stains to color my terra sig and i'm using mason
and inclusion stains for the patina wash. problem is that if the background
(terra sig) is dark, my lighter colors like greens and purples and yellows
and greys are not showing up, especially green. on the green, i want them
to look like the green patina on aged bronze.
i'm a high fire cone 10 gal and to do this and at cone 6 and in an electric
kiln is a huge leap. any help is greatly appreciated.
grace
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