Puddy & Co. on fri 17 nov 00
Leava,
I just met a woman who does very nice pieces - high fired slip-cast
porcelain with both, luster and mother of pearl decoration. She
glost-fires first and then does subsequent firings with luster and
mother of pearl at low temperatures, probably those recommended by the
manufacturer of the applied chemicals (what is it - stains?). The work
is absolutely charming. I have never done anything like this, but I
suspect that the secret is to make sure that your glaze (did you say
cone 6?) will not be touched by the subsequent low temperature
re-firing. I do not know how it will work with c6 glazes, her glost
firing was really high. I am sure there is a lot of experimentation
invoved.
Have fun!
Hanna Lewandowski
Southern Ontario
Canada
Snail Scott on sat 18 nov 00
It really doesn't matter what the original glaze temperature was
when applying metallic lusters and overglazes - ^10, ^6, ^06, whatever.
Any glassy surface will do. The luster will take on the surface of the
glaze under it, (glossy, satin, matt, whatever) but the original firing
temperature is irrelevant. I apply the stuff to glazes fired at ^6, ^1,
^06, and others, sometimes all on the same piece! I've even applied it
to chunks of glass slag from the dump, and to old bottles. The glass
actually starts to melt and distort at the ^018 of the lusters, but the
lusters look just fine. It even looks fine on many commercial glazes that
say "not overglaze compatible". (Note: if the glaze crazes, the crazing
will show through the overglaze.)
Knock yourself out! the stuff is fun. -Snail
At 11:14 PM 11/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Leava,
>I just met a woman who does very nice pieces - high fired slip-cast
>porcelain with both, luster and mother of pearl decoration. She
>glost-fires first and then does subsequent firings with luster and
>mother of pearl at low temperatures, probably those recommended by the
>manufacturer of the applied chemicals (what is it - stains?). The work
>is absolutely charming. I have never done anything like this, but I
>suspect that the secret is to make sure that your glaze (did you say
>cone 6?) will not be touched by the subsequent low temperature
>re-firing. I do not know how it will work with c6 glazes, her glost
>firing was really high. I am sure there is a lot of experimentation
>invoved.
>Have fun!
>
>
>Hanna Lewandowski
>Southern Ontario
>Canada
>
Jim V Brooks on sun 19 nov 00
There seems to be a belief that any glaze surface is OK for lusters.. That is
NOT true...!!!!!!! Some glazes will not take lusters.. and all you get is a
terrrible dull black ( for both lusters and gold). So you must have a
compatable glaze for the luster to work.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not sure what makes the difference. I have read that glazes with a lot
of copper will not work.. and i have read that high lead or high nickel will
not work..as well as chrome. However, i have used some green, greys, etc
that t did work. Perhaps some of the online experts.. can tell us what makes
the difference.
If you are using commercial glazes.. especially low fire. the containers
will tell you if it is gold/luster compatable. BUT ALL GLAZES DO NOT WORK !
---- including some high fire glazes that i have tried. Jim in Denton.
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