Khaimraj Seepersad on mon 20 nov 00
Hello all,
I've been researching the concept of frost proofing and have found that it
is
more vague than I thought it might be. I understand that it will vary
depending on the precise structure of each individual clay formulation and
the firing methods; but what would be a good absorption level to remain
below
for claiming frost-proof (generally); my research indicates 5% or lower.
Also correct me if incorrect; any clay body that reaches maturity and
remains
under _% of absorption is frost-proof. It is not necessary that it be only
stoneware/porcelain fired at cone 10 or higher.
What do you experienced members of the list say about this? Where can I find
good information regarding this subject?
Thanks in advance,
Luis Fontanills (manFont@aol.com)
Architect (and sometimes mud player ;-)
John Hesselberth on mon 20 nov 00
Luis Fontanills wrote:
>I've been researching the concept of frost proofing and have found that it
>is
>more vague than I thought it might be. I understand that it will vary
>depending on the precise structure of each individual clay formulation and
>the firing methods; but what would be a good absorption level to remain
>below
>for claiming frost-proof (generally); my research indicates 5% or lower.
>
>Also correct me if incorrect; any clay body that reaches maturity and
>remains
>under _% of absorption is frost-proof. It is not necessary that it be only
>stoneware/porcelain fired at cone 10 or higher.
>
>What do you experienced members of the list say about this? Where can I find
>good information regarding this subject?
Hello Luis,
You will find the most thorough discussion of this on pages 17 and 18 of
Val Cushings's Handbook.
Regards, John
John Hesselberth
Frog Pond Pottery
P.O. Box 88
Pocopson, PA 19366 USA
EMail: john@frogpondpottery.com web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"It is, perhaps, still necessary to say that the very best glazes cannot
conceal badly shaped pots..." David Green, Pottery Glazes
Cobus Potgieter on tue 21 nov 00
Dear Kkaimraj,
Please go to http://digitalfire.com/education/clay/outdoor.htm
You can also add finely ground glass powder (200#) to your clay body. This
will help to flux the particles, and in so doing, reduce the absorption for
clays that mature at lower temperatures. A small addition of borax can also
help. You need to experiment.
Regards,
Cobus Potgieter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Khaimraj Seepersad"
To:
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 9:27 PM
Subject: Help Needed Clay Body Guru's - Frost Proofing and Other .
> Hello all,
>
> I've been researching the concept of frost proofing and have found that it
> is
> more vague than I thought it might be. I understand that it will vary
> depending on the precise structure of each individual clay formulation and
> the firing methods; but what would be a good absorption level to remain
> below
> for claiming frost-proof (generally); my research indicates 5% or lower.
>
> Also correct me if incorrect; any clay body that reaches maturity and
> remains
> under _% of absorption is frost-proof. It is not necessary that it be only
> stoneware/porcelain fired at cone 10 or higher.
>
> What do you experienced members of the list say about this? Where can I
find
> good information regarding this subject?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Luis Fontanills (manFont@aol.com)
> Architect (and sometimes mud player ;-)
>
>
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melpots@pclink.com.
>
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