Hank Murrow on wed 29 nov 00
Earl Brunner wrote;
>OK, months ago (shortly after the article about David Shaner came out in
>Studio Potter) I queried the list about Shaner's Orange, something
>others that I have known have achieved but had eluded me. I finally got
>around to testing some of the variations that were given to me. I got
>some fairly promising tests out of the firing and so mixed up a large batch.
>
>This firing everything came out green and boring. So I'm wondering what
>I'm missing or have forgotten about getting reds and oranges out of this
>glaze.
>
>For example I know that part of the problem is thickness, but the boring
>brown on the thin areas isn't.
>
>I hit cone 11 in parts of the kiln this time, nice even 10's in the test
>firing. ????
>
>Reduction? I'm getting copper turning red throughout the kiln (even
>where I don't want it to)
>
>Iron in clay? Mine is pretty white stoneware, but so was the test??
>
>Anyone have any Ideas I would appreciate it. Firing again tomorrow.
Dear Earl;
This is one of those glazes like shino which needs a period of oxidation
after the reduction. You can do this from C/5 to C/10, and cool slowly; or
you can hold the kiln in oxidation around C/2 in a soaking fire for two to
four hours. I bet they turn out red.
Hank in Eugene.
Linfield College on wed 29 nov 00
on 11/29/00 3:00 PM, Earl Brunner at bruec@ANV.NET wrote:
> OK, months ago (shortly after the article about David Shaner came out in
> Studio Potter) I queried the list about Shaner's Orange,
> ......This firing everything came out green and boring. So I'm wondering what
> I'm missing or have forgotten about getting reds and oranges....
>..... Anyone have any Ideas I would appreciate it. Firing again tomorrow.
>
How much iron and/or rutile is in the glaze, Earl? It may be that the
cooling is not slow enough for the iron to re-crystalize on the surface.
With lots of iron in the glaze, this makes for boring browns and/or
greens, often.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Earl Brunner on wed 29 nov 00
OK, months ago (shortly after the article about David Shaner came out in
Studio Potter) I queried the list about Shaner's Orange, something
others that I have known have achieved but had eluded me. I finally got
around to testing some of the variations that were given to me. I got
some fairly promising tests out of the firing and so mixed up a large batch.
This firing everything came out green and boring. So I'm wondering what
I'm missing or have forgotten about getting reds and oranges out of this
glaze.
For example I know that part of the problem is thickness, but the boring
brown on the thin areas isn't.
I hit cone 11 in parts of the kiln this time, nice even 10's in the test
firing. ????
Reduction? I'm getting copper turning red throughout the kiln (even
where I don't want it to)
Iron in clay? Mine is pretty white stoneware, but so was the test??
Anyone have any Ideas I would appreciate it. Firing again tomorrow.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Stephani Stephenson on thu 30 nov 00
Earl and all,
It has been quite awhile since I have fired the Shaner's red's, but if
my memory serves me the reds in this glaze are best brought out in
oxidation as they are iron reds. A slow cooling is essential as well for
bringing out the complexity and richness of color. And specific gravity
or slurry thickness is key. too thick and greens will dominate.
sincerely
Stephani Stephenson
LEucadia CA
Earl Brunner on thu 30 nov 00
4.1% iron in the red version
about 3.8 red iron and 4.1 rutile in the orange version
I could fire down some, but not sure about reduction on the firing down,
do I need it?
I'm pretty sure its in the firing, but how and what to do?
> How much iron and/or rutile is in the glaze, Earl? It may be that the
> cooling is not slow enough for the iron to re-crystalize on the surface.
> With lots of iron in the glaze, this makes for boring browns and/or
> greens, often.
>
> regards
>
> Dannon Rhudy
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Dave Murphy on thu 30 nov 00
hi Earl:
My experience with Shaners red/orange was that if I used a heavy iron
bearing clay then with moderate to heavy reduction produced "pea soup" green
with streaks. Thickness was not a variable in that situation. However,
with a clay body of moderate iron the result was much nicer. The red was
more pronounced. If you want orange I have a nice recipe for you to try.
It follows:
G-200 60
Dolomite 74
Whiting 10
EPK 77
Flint 16
Superpax 3%
Red Iron .5%
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Brunner"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 6:00 PM
Subject: Shaner's Red/Orange
> OK, months ago (shortly after the article about David Shaner came out in
> Studio Potter) I queried the list about Shaner's Orange, something
> others that I have known have achieved but had eluded me. I finally got
> around to testing some of the variations that were given to me. I got
> some fairly promising tests out of the firing and so mixed up a large
batch.
>
> This firing everything came out green and boring. So I'm wondering what
> I'm missing or have forgotten about getting reds and oranges out of this
> glaze.
>
> For example I know that part of the problem is thickness, but the boring
> brown on the thin areas isn't.
>
> I hit cone 11 in parts of the kiln this time, nice even 10's in the test
> firing. ????
>
> Reduction? I'm getting copper turning red throughout the kiln (even
> where I don't want it to)
>
> Iron in clay? Mine is pretty white stoneware, but so was the test??
>
> Anyone have any Ideas I would appreciate it. Firing again tomorrow.
>
>
> --
> Earl Brunner
> http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
> mailto:bruec@anv.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Linfield College on thu 30 nov 00
on 11/30/00 11:44 AM, Earl Brunner at bruec@ANV.NET wrote:
> 4.1% iron in the red version
> about 3.8 red iron and 4.1 rutile in the orange version
> I could fire down some, but not sure about reduction on the firing down,
> do I need it?
> I'm pretty sure its in the firing, but how and what to do?
>
>
I believe Hank Murrow already spoke to this, but you need not reduce-
shouldn't, in fact - while firing down. Two to three hours should be
sufficient, holding it around 1900F or so.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Paul Lewing on thu 30 nov 00
I haven't fired this stuff for many years, but I do recall its being
very tricky to get to turn red. In fact, Rudy Autio, my teacher, always
used to refer to it as "Shaner's-Red-Turns-Green". But I do recall Dave
saying that you had to use the right clay body (a stoneware with some
iron in it) apply it just the right thickness, fire it just right (and I
forget what constituted "just right"), and the right kind of iron. I
know from all my tests of oxidation iron reds that the kind of iron
oxide you use makes a huge difference, so it's not surprising. Dave
always said you needed Spanish Red iron oxide to get it to be really
red.
Hapy testing,
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Doug Gray on thu 30 nov 00
Earl,
I have had similar problems with the Shaner Red's and Oranges. So I'm
just as interested in the answers as you are. I can say this, though.
I put several of my dull brownish pots through the next bisque firing,
cone 04, and they came out much more pumpkin orange. You might try this
with some of your less thrilling results.
This color change in a electric kiln would suggest to me that those
glazes don't like too much reduction. While you are getting plenty of
reduction for the reds it may be over kill for the Shaner glazes.
Another thought is that I've been starting the body reduction earlier
than in the past., cone 010 tipping. This helped my reds considerably,
but may be playing havoc with the Shaner glazes.
I know this doesn't help much, but it may add a few more pieces to the
puzzle.
Doug
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