Michelle Lowe on mon 18 dec 00
Hey friends,
I have a new student coming to my studio to learn to make raku beads. She
is a clay novice, so is relying on me for knowledge and guidance and I'm
afraid I am not succeeding very well yet. She has some raku beads she
bought that she would like to emulate (from a show, they're from somewhere
out of state she thinks). They are copper matte glazed, and appear to have
glaze applied all the way around the bead, except for inside the wire hole,
which are as small as 1/16" or so. The glaze is perfect on them, no mars
or nicks. I am curious as to how these were raku fired, with glaze on all
the surfaces, we have tried thin nichrome wire stretched between bricks or
slung in a loop from one brick with limited success, the beads slide
together and stick somewhere in the process... What other methods are
people out there using to raku beads or any small hung objects?
Thanks!
Mishy
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
mishy@desertdragonpottery.com /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com ____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
Marcia Selsor on mon 18 dec 00
We fired a bunch of raku beads on a piece of kiln shelf, enabling them
to be lifted together, and then dumped them into a small combustion
chamber without the shelf.. We did have some markings though. Good luck.
Marcia
Michelle Lowe wrote:
>
> Hey friends,
> I have a new student coming to my studio to learn to make raku beads. She
> is a clay novice, so is relying on me for knowledge and guidance and I'm
> afraid I am not succeeding very well yet. She has some raku beads she
> bought that she would like to emulate (from a show, they're from somewhere
> out of state she thinks). They are copper matte glazed, and appear to have
> glaze applied all the way around the bead, except for inside the wire hole,
> which are as small as 1/16" or so. The glaze is perfect on them, no mars
> or nicks. I am curious as to how these were raku fired, with glaze on all
> the surfaces, we have tried thin nichrome wire stretched between bricks or
> slung in a loop from one brick with limited success, the beads slide
> together and stick somewhere in the process... What other methods are
> people out there using to raku beads or any small hung objects?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mishy
>
> Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
> mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
> mishy@desertdragonpottery.com /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
> http://www.desertdragonpottery.com ____ |
> http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
Lori Leary on mon 18 dec 00
Hi Mishy,
Last year, we decorated a Christmas tree to be auctioned to benefit our
local Hospice. Every ornament was handmade and rakued. To help things
go faster, I took softbrick, cut them lengthwise, stuck brads (nails)
in the sides to accomodate beads (for the garland) and ornaments, We
also used a small fiber kiln I made using a 5 gallon metal bucket (mel's
design). We had hundreds of ornaments/beads fired within a few hours.
Hope this helps...
By the way, this year we used ^10 porcelain to make the ornaments, but
fired them to ^04 with a clear glaze. All of the resulting ornaments
were crazed, of course. But there was a method to our madness... we
brushed on colored inks and washed them off.....very cool...red, blue,
green, yellow, purple, black, brown and orange crackle with a white
background....
Happy Holidays,
Lori in Pawleys Island, SC
Lorraine Pierce on tue 19 dec 00
Hi Mike...thought I'd tell you, while I'm waiting for the last batch of
Christmas panettone to rise, that you can find heavy nichrome rods to fire
beads on in most any good ceramic catalogue. If you do not wish to buy a
'bead tree' you can inbed the rods in the upper section of a soft brick
standing on end. ( Much easier to remove from a raku kiln than a bead tree.)
Oops, there goes my timer in the kitchen. M-m-m smells good. Lori in New
Port Richey, Fl.
Richard Jeffery on tue 19 dec 00
if it's copper matt glaze, there are usually so little glass forming
elements that pieces don't stick to anything anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Michelle Lowe
Sent: 18 December 2000 19:00
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: need help rakuing beads
Hey friends,
I have a new student coming to my studio to learn to make raku beads. She
is a clay novice, so is relying on me for knowledge and guidance and I'm
afraid I am not succeeding very well yet. She has some raku beads she
bought that she would like to emulate (from a show, they're from somewhere
out of state she thinks). They are copper matte glazed, and appear to have
glaze applied all the way around the bead, except for inside the wire hole,
which are as small as 1/16" or so. The glaze is perfect on them, no mars
or nicks. I am curious as to how these were raku fired, with glaze on all
the surfaces, we have tried thin nichrome wire stretched between bricks or
slung in a loop from one brick with limited success, the beads slide
together and stick somewhere in the process... What other methods are
people out there using to raku beads or any small hung objects?
Thanks!
Mishy
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
mishy@desertdragonpottery.com /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com ____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Michelle Lowe on tue 19 dec 00
At 07:40 AM 12/19/2000 -0000, you wrote:
>if it's copper matt glaze, there are usually so little glass forming
>elements that pieces don't stick to anything anyway.
Yeah? You think just toss them in a bowl together? This seems possible to
me too....
Hmmmm
Thanks everyone!
Mishy
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
mishy@desertdragonpottery.com /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.desertdragonpottery.com ____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
Lorraine Pierce on tue 19 dec 00
Michey, I haven't done beads for years and years, but I remember that it was
finicky work, meticulously cleaning any glaze from the bead hole and around
it...and that you had to know your glaze well...no running etc. I finally
ended up doing smoked beads with commercial accent beads of color. I
know you will find your answer here somewhere...goodluck. Lori in New Port
Richey, Fl.
Dannon Rhudy on tue 19 dec 00
A
>I have a new student ... clay novice, ..copper matte glazed, and appear to
have
>glaze applied all the way around
Mishy, copper matt glazes can usually be fired with the whole
surface glazed - they don't really flux, generally. We have
a copper matt that is often used for beads for that very reason.
When the temp gets high enough, the beads are just lifted out
and placed on the paper, and covered with a trash can for
smoking/reducing.
Students fire their beads in a little flat bisque "dish"
with shallow rim, so that the whole thing can be removed
with tongs at once.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Daniel Foscarini on tue 19 dec 00
They are made on a rack for making beads, really good ceramic supplies have
them.
The one I've used ( borrowed from college ) has two pillars with successive
notches climbing up on side on each pillar.
The beads are placed on rods which can be fired to cone 10 ( i think, i used
^6 ) The rods slip into the notches. The only thing to remember about firing
beads is shrinkage, as you need enough space around the rod for the clay to
shrink and exspand or they crack and fall apart.
Dan
>From: Michelle Lowe
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: need help rakuing beads
>Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 12:00:01 -0700
>
>Hey friends,
>I have a new student coming to my studio to learn to make raku beads. She
>is a clay novice, so is relying on me for knowledge and guidance and I'm
>afraid I am not succeeding very well yet. She has some raku beads she
>bought that she would like to emulate (from a show, they're from somewhere
>out of state she thinks). They are copper matte glazed, and appear to have
>glaze applied all the way around the bead, except for inside the wire hole,
>which are as small as 1/16" or so. The glaze is perfect on them, no mars
>or nicks. I am curious as to how these were raku fired, with glaze on all
>the surfaces, we have tried thin nichrome wire stretched between bricks or
>slung in a loop from one brick with limited success, the beads slide
>together and stick somewhere in the process... What other methods are
>people out there using to raku beads or any small hung objects?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mishy
>
>
>Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
>mishlowe@amug.org -O- | |
>mishy@desertdragonpottery.com /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
> http://www.desertdragonpottery.com ____ |
> http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
BobWicks@AOL.COM on tue 19 dec 00
In a message dated 12/18/00 5:30:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mishlowe@AMUG.ORG writes:
> Hi Mishy:
I read your plea for help with Raku beads. The problem that you describe
might be solved by placing your supports for the nichrome wire closer
together. The weight of the beads on the wire which is already in a nearly
fluid state will tend to sag. Limit the number of beads on the wire and keep
the distance short so the wire does not bend very much when the kiln reaches
temperature. I am confident this will solve your problem.
Bob Wicks, Prof. Emeritus HACC
MaryBeth Bishop on wed 20 dec 00
Mishy
I think something like a tree or a clay form that allows a number of wires to
be inserted works well. I never put more than one bead on a wire when I did
these. I was frustrated by the "waste" of space but it just didn't work. Of
course the matt glazes tend to stick to eachother less than the shiny ones.
If you can make something that looks like a tree or a pair of fence posts
with wires inserted you can move the whole thing into a bucket for reduction.
I think I saw some things like this in a catalogue...maybe it was Campbells.
I made my own design. It was a tall cylinder with cut outs for
reduction/smoking and holes for the wires. I just loaded it from the bottom
to the top and then fired and reduced it as a unit. At the time I thought it
could use some improvement but on reflection it was probably a pretty good
solution. Sometimes I think it's these little challenges that keep us all
going, don't you?
I spent three hours today shovelling snow. We are having holidays in
Pennsylvania. Tomorrow I am going to see how much a snow blower costs. I
prefer more creative challenges, but the clear fresh air was good.
Undoubtedly I will get a good deal more of that. I can't see myself
spending money on a snow blower when there are so many studio toys I would
rather have.
Happy beading.
Mary Beth
Roger Korn on wed 20 dec 00
Hi Lorraine,
I have a pile of expired electric kiln elements, from kilns I've
rewired. Using a propane torch, heat these red-hot as you pull them
straight again. Cut 'em up for bead rods, setter points, whatever. They
still have life in them.
Best of the Season to all,
Roger Korn
McKay Creek Ceramics
PS: send pannetone to 31330 NW Pacific Ave., North Plains, OR 97133,
where it's cold and dark and I miss the Italian town (Occidental, CA.)
where I grew up! (Just kidding, but I think I'll make a couple loaves if
I remember how!)
Lorraine wrote:
Hi Mike...thought I'd tell you, while I'm waiting for the
last batch of
Christmas panettone to rise, that you can find heavy nichrome
rods to fire
beads on in most any good ceramic catalogue. If you do not
wish to buy a
'bead tree' you can inbed the rods in the upper section of a
soft brick
standing on end. ( Much easier to remove from a raku kiln than
a bead tree.)
Oops, there goes my timer in the kitchen. M-m-m smells good.
Lori in New
Port Richey, Fl.
Ken Kang on thu 21 dec 00
Mishy,
Make a bead rack out of welded wire fabric, fencing material. I use 1 inc=
h
by 1 inch 12 gauge wire fabric. Cut a length and roll it into a cylinder,=
overlap by one inch and fasten by bending the loose ends. It can be made
into any diameter or height you wish. It will last 25+ firings. For a
couple of dollars you can make at least a dozen 6 in. x 6 in. cylinders.
It's another beautiful day in Hawaii.
Aloha, Ken =
Jeremy McLeod on fri 22 dec 00
> Make a bead rack out of welded wire fabric, fencing material.
It's early in the morning and my visual imagination hasn't awakened yet.
I get the idea of using the welded wire fence fabric to make a cone or
cylindar. Then the beads are attached where? Simply using the holes
in the fabric as places to support nicad bead wires? or is there
something more involved here...
ZZZzzzzzz z z ???
Jeremy McLeod
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