Sabra Wood on thu 28 dec 00
if you'll be happy with plastic bats, why not make bats out of countertop?
i get sink cut outs for free... from contractors, hardware, fabricator. then i use a
saber / jig saw to cut out the circle in the diameter i want.
next... drill 2 holes.
done!
sabra
Isao & Don wrote:
> At 21:01 12/26/00 -0800, you wrote:
> >I have a little christmas money, and have struck out at ebay. Anybody get
> new bats, and want to sell your old ones? Hopefully cheaper than the
> catalogs? email me at primalmommy@ivillage.com. I'd be happy to barter if I
> have anything you need, my barter page is at http://www.primalpotter.com
> >
> >Thanks folks! Kelly in Ohio (where the grandparents have buried my
> children under piles of gifts, we start digging out tomorrow...)
> >
> >
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>
> Alleyways and construction sites are strewn with plywood. A $2.00
> saw will provide one with hundreds of bats in a very short time.
> This is called, "The truly free market."
> Isao & Don
> Don & Isao Sanami Morrill
> e-Mail:
>
>
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Lee Love on sat 30 dec 00
All the bats here are squares with the corners cut off. Most are
plywood, with some of the older onces being made of boards. They don't
have pin holes, but are raised on the bottom by two parellel boards. Clay
is used to hold them to the wooden wheel head or to the metal wheelhead of
the Shimpos. These are a lot easier to pick up and move around. We use
them for many things: holding our example peices, our wheel bowl, our
throwing and trimming tools, etc.
Most smaller things are thrown off the hump, even medium sized
plates. The plates a lifted off the hump with two bamboo strips.
--
Lee Love
Mashiko JAPAN Ikiru@kami.com
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mudlark on sat 30 dec 00
Harping on the bat pin thing. I don't use them. But another great way is to use
cake pans, for layered cakes. You can by them in all sizes.
"Christopher J. Anton" wrote:
> Something I haven't seen mentioned in this (periodic) discussion is plaster
> bats. I did mine by leaving the pins in the wheel head, building a dam
> around the rim (building up from the vertical edges), and pouring plaster
> onto the wheel head. A fettling knife separated the bat from the wheel head
> when it had set enough to be moved, and the pins pulled out easily. Not
> only did I get some nice plaster bats this way, but the pin holes are
> guaranteed to be in the right places.
>
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Don Jones on sat 30 dec 00
As long as we are going into detail about bats, here's how I use them:
I throw everything except tori, and cones directly on the wheel head. I
use little water and during the last stages of throwing I use metal ribs
and then just fingers on the naked clay. When finished, I trim about 1/4th
the way up from the bottom and use an elongated "D" tool that I made a
while back to trim a smaller footprint on the wheel head. I then cut it
off using a wire and pick it up (using a practiced technique of one hand in
back and one in front) and put it on a wooden bat.
I do have bats with holes and I use them as bases for plastic flower pots
that I have screwed/glued on them. I use these as trimming chucks as they
are automatically centered. I think this system eliminates much of the
storage/drying/chipping/cleaning/mounting/and removing problems associated
with throwing with plaster bats. I think it also makes for a cleaner and
more efficient throwing technique. When you get used to it, you can throw
medium size bowls and any open and closed form of any reasonable size.
Some forms, such as vases, can be thrown and trimmed on the wheel head
with very little finishing afterwards. I also think it's faster but I
wouldn't want to be drawn into any speed contests :-)
respectfully,
Don Jones
> All the bats here are squares with the corners cut off. Most are
>plywood, with some of the older onces being made of boards. They don't
>have pin holes, but are raised on the bottom by two parellel boards. Clay
>is used to hold them to the wooden wheel head or to the metal wheelhead of
>the Shimpos. These are a lot easier to pick up and move around. We use
>them for many things: holding our example peices, our wheel bowl, our
>throwing and trimming tools, etc.
>
> Most smaller things are thrown off the hump, even medium sized
>plates. The plates a lifted off the hump with two bamboo strips.
>
>--
>Lee Love
> Mashiko JAPAN Ikiru@kami.com
>Interested in Folkcraft? Signup:
>Subscribe: mingei-subscribe@egroups.com
>Or: http://www.egroups.com/group/mingei
>Help ET phone Earth: http://setiathome.ssl.berkeley.edu/
>
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>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
www.highfiber.com/~claysky
Mayssan1@AOL.COM on sat 30 dec 00
Dear Lee:
Happy new year, This, maybe, a beginner's question, But how do you compress
the bottom on plates when you throw them off the hump? I was told to always
compress the bottom back and forth many times to prevent s cracks. How can
you do that off the hump? please forgive my ignorance and help me learn more.
Thanks a lot.
Mayssan
who feels she knows less now than she felt she knew five years ago.
I guess by the time I am eighty I would feel I know absolutely nothing:)
Veena Raghavan on sat 30 dec 00
Message text written by Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>Most smaller things are thrown off the hump, even medium sized
plates. The plates a lifted off the hump with two bamboo strips.
<
Hi Lee,
I am intrigued by your mention of lifting medium-sized plates off
the humb with two bamboo strips. Could you possibly give more details about
this process? Thanks in advance.
Happy New Year.
Best wishes.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Christopher J. Anton on sat 30 dec 00
Something I haven't seen mentioned in this (periodic) discussion is plaster
bats. I did mine by leaving the pins in the wheel head, building a dam
around the rim (building up from the vertical edges), and pouring plaster
onto the wheel head. A fettling knife separated the bat from the wheel head
when it had set enough to be moved, and the pins pulled out easily. Not
only did I get some nice plaster bats this way, but the pin holes are
guaranteed to be in the right places.
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