Deborah Floden on tue 2 jan 01
Hello, can anyone tell me if there is some special way to reglaze a bowl
that was fired with the glaze to thin. It is quite rough and unpleasant.
Is all lost?
Deborah
Estevan, Sk
Canada
H.M. Buchanan on tue 2 jan 01
Deborah, a hint to help remove the extra water, sink a bowl in the glaze
bucket and let the clear water run over the sides into it. A half-gallon
ice cream carton works well in a 5 gallon bucket. Wipe off the carton with a
damp sponge and wash and squeeze it in the carton to save every drop of
glaze.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deborah Floden"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: thin glaze, cone 6 fire
> Hello, can anyone tell me if there is some special way to reglaze a bowl
> that was fired with the glaze to thin. It is quite rough and unpleasant.
> Is all lost?
> Deborah
> Estevan, Sk
> Canada
>
>
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Wade Blocker on tue 2 jan 01
Deborah,
Just reglaze the bowl in the following manner: use the same glaze or
another glaze which you have thickened somewhat. You can do this by pouring
off some of the water ,on top of the glaze, (do not discard it though, add
it back to the glaze after you have reglazed the object) You might also add
a little CMC to make the glaze stick better to the already fired bowl. Let
it dry and refire to cone 6. Mia in sunny but cold ABQ
Mike Gordon on tue 2 jan 01
Hi Deborah,
I had the same thing happen in grad school, in a hurry to get a place
setting glazed and fired before I went off to summer camp. I mixed the
glaze too thin and glazed, decorated stacked and fired the kiln to C/5
and left the next day. Viola took one look and closed the door and
refired it to C/9 reduction. Everything turned out beautiful! Mike
Gordon
Ann Brink on tue 2 jan 01
Hello Deborah,
You can re-glaze and re-fire. Since your surface will not be absorbent, the
glaze needs to be thicker (pour off some water from the top of the bucket
first) . You also need to screen the glaze because if there are larger
particles, they will drift down the pot as it dries, leaving trails. There
is a lot of possibility for variation here (experimentation, fun) depending
on the thickness of your glaze, whether you dry the pot right side up or
not, etc. You could also do a simple repetitive design with wax resist on
the exterior, especially if you are using a different color as a second
coating. Good luck,
Happy New Year to all!
Ann Brink in CA, running scan-disk on my brain after the grandkids left
yesterday- the house is unnaturally quiet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deborah Floden"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 6:27 AM
Subject: thin glaze, cone 6 fire
> Hello, can anyone tell me if there is some special way to reglaze a bowl
> that was fired with the glaze to thin. It is quite rough and unpleasant.
> Is all lost?
> Deborah
> Estevan, Sk
> Canada
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Cantello Studios on tue 2 jan 01
Sand blast it then heat it up and spray on the glaze. I was once told that
if you add a small amount of aluminum Hydrate to the glaze that will help it
stick to. I'm not sure though it may change the glaze as well any comments
on that? Chris C\S
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Deborah Floden
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 6:27 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: thin glaze, cone 6 fire
Hello, can anyone tell me if there is some special way to reglaze a bowl
that was fired with the glaze to thin. It is quite rough and unpleasant.
Is all lost?
Deborah
Estevan, Sk
Canada
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tom Buck on tue 2 jan 01
1) Heat the pot to 50-60 C, recoat with a brushed glaze with at least 3%
gum in it (CMC, or Elmer's glue)
2) Take hairspray or spray-starch or white glue and coat the pot's
surface. Let dry. then reglaze.
good pots, bfn. peace. tom b.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
Cindy Strnad on tue 2 jan 01
Hi, Deborah.
You've received some good suggestions. A few other things that have worked
for me: heat the pot. You needn't do it in the kiln unless that's easiest
for you. A regular oven will work fine. Even a bath in very hot water will
work (but do dry the pot before glazing).
Ordinarily, you depend on the porosity of the bisqued piece to pull moisture
from the glaze, thus causing it to adhere to the surface of the pot. Heating
accomplishes the same object, by causing the moisture to evaporate quickly
into the atmosphere.
Second, try spraying your new coat of glaze if possible. This works much
better than dipping or (horrors) painting for a re-glazing of an already
glazed piece.
Another tip which I haven't tried, but which sounds as though it would work
is to spray the pot with a sticky mixture of corn syrup and enough water to
allow you to spray the corn syrup. (Use a standard household spray bottle.)
This allegedly encourages the glaze to stick to the smooth surface.
These suggestions will also work for ware which has accidentally been bisque
fired too high.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Sabra Wood on thu 4 jan 01
reglazing is something i know a little about... but only experiential knowledge.
i'm terrible at glazing, so reglazing is just part of the regular day.
practice seems to make imperfect.
at any rate, i start by deciding if i'm going to redip in same or go nutz.
if redip, i nuke the pot in the microwave until it's too hot to handle with bare
hands. i'd use a regular oven, but there isn't one at the studio.
then i use glaze tongs, dip, clean & ready to go. heating helps the dip stick to the
fired surface.
this actually works well.
and... if i decide to be adventurous,i don't dip at all. instead, i scoop some
glaze from the bottom of a few different buckets where it's gloppy thick. then,
using sponge or brush, i do the equivalent of kindergarten finger painting. even as
the pot cools, the thick glop tends to stick.
then, so the kiln goddess doesn't hate me, i put one of my cheaters on a broken piece
of kiln shelf, then set the pot on top of it. with a note to fire the 3 pieces as
is. that way, the gloppy glaze drips on the broken shelf, and the pot doesn't fuse
to the shelf.
i'm sure there's a real term for cheaters... i just threw a cylinder that tapers...
like i was making a chuck. ... one end is about 2x larger than other. when leather
hard, i slice off mini cylinders, about 1-2" tall. then i bisque & glaze fire...
without glazes. voila... a set of graduated boosters that fit inside the foot of
almost any pot. works for me.
course, if i ever get to be even a below average glazer, i won't need all of this
overcompensating behavior.
sigh.
a person i know swears by spray starch, rather than heating pot. i've never tried
it. anyone else had luck with this?
hope this helps. sabra
ps - my experience is based on ^10 reduction, in case it matters. i'm too dumb to
know.
Deborah Floden wrote:
> Hello, can anyone tell me if there is some special way to reglaze a bowl
> that was fired with the glaze to thin. It is quite rough and unpleasant.
> Is all lost?
> Deborah
> Estevan, Sk
> Canada
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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