John Baise on thu 18 jan 01
hello- i am new to the list, so a big "hello" to all clayart subscribers...
(there must be a few of us. since subscribing i have received 472 messages-
better check my e-mail everyday)
& i am new/ignorant to ceramics- i have, however, gotten myself into a
ceramics debacle. (what have i done?) i'm making ceramic tiles, imprinted
with names, for a skateboard park here in Colorado. since the tiles need to
be vitrified/frost proof i need them to go to cone 10.
My question(s) then is: do "they" make tile setters that go to cone 10?
i've seen plenty that are good up to cone 6 but have found discrepancies
about cone 10 setters.?
If so, could someone advise me on where to purchase them?
ok, if i am going to ask i might as well go all the way:- my plan for drying
is to sandwich them in between gypsum/drywall board in 1ft by 1ft stacks
about 8 stacks high. i hope (please please) this keeps them flat. after
they are stacked i am putting them in drying cabinets with a pan of water
under them, & figuring on a drying time of approximately 1 week.?
does this sound like the correct approach? any advice will be, gosh ummm,
praised, worshipped, implemented...
thanks for your time,
John-
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Earl Brunner on thu 18 jan 01
I have used my tile setters to cone 10. The problem was the larger the
tile the more prone to warping (sag).
The 4X4 wasn't too bad but larger had trouble.
John Baise wrote:
> hello- i am new to the list, so a big "hello" to all clayart subscribers...
> (there must be a few of us. since subscribing i have received 472 messages-
> better check my e-mail everyday)
> & i am new/ignorant to ceramics- i have, however, gotten myself into a
> ceramics debacle. (what have i done?) i'm making ceramic tiles, imprinted
> with names, for a skateboard park here in Colorado. since the tiles
> need to
> be vitrified/frost proof i need them to go to cone 10.
> My question(s) then is: do "they" make tile setters that go to cone 10?
> i've seen plenty that are good up to cone 6 but have found discrepancies
> about cone 10 setters.?
> If so, could someone advise me on where to purchase them?
>
> ok, if i am going to ask i might as well go all the way:- my plan for
> drying
> is to sandwich them in between gypsum/drywall board in 1ft by 1ft stacks
> about 8 stacks high. i hope (please please) this keeps them flat. after
> they are stacked i am putting them in drying cabinets with a pan of water
> under them, & figuring on a drying time of approximately 1 week.?
> does this sound like the correct approach? any advice will be, gosh ummm,
> praised, worshipped, implemented...
>
> thanks for your time,
> John-
> _________________________________________________________________
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> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
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--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Paul Lewing on fri 19 jan 01
John, I have some tile setters that I used to fire to cone 10, but
they're different from the kind that most people use. Most people have
the kind that are like a box with little ledges that stick out from the
sides inside the box. I have those, too, and fire my china-painted
tiles in them. But all the cone 10 tiles I used to make, and the bisque
tiles I now fire to cone 4, will sag in them.
But I have another kind, which is like a small mullite kiln shelf- just
big enough for a 6" tile- with a leg on each corner. So you just stack
these individual setters up. If you don't flip them over sometimes,
they will eventually sag themselves, but it takes years. I still use
them, but I have to put a small dot of clay under the center of the tile
to hold it up.
Anyway, last time I looked, Amaco had them in their catalog. In fact, I
need to look, because I need to replace some. After they warp, you have
to be really careful about how thick a tile you put in them, or they
touch the tile below.
Good luck,
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Jonathan Kaplan on fri 19 jan 01
on 1/18/01 7:07 PM, Earl Brunner at bruec@ANV.NET wrote:
> I have used my tile setters to cone 10. The problem was the larger the
> tile the more prone to warping (sag).
> The 4X4 wasn't too bad but larger had trouble.
>
> John Baise wrote:
>
>> hello- i am new to the list, so a big "hello" to all clayart subscribers...
>> (there must be a few of us. since subscribing i have received 472 messages-
>> better check my e-mail everyday)
>> & i am new/ignorant to ceramics- i have, however, gotten myself into a
>> ceramics debacle. (what have i done?) i'm making ceramic tiles, imprinted
>> with names, for a skateboard park here in Colorado. since the tiles
>> need to
>> be vitrified/frost proof i need them to go to cone 10.
>> My question(s) then is: do "they" make tile setters that go to cone 10?
>> i've seen plenty that are good up to cone 6 but have found discrepancies
>> about cone 10 setters.?
>> If so, could someone advise me on where to purchase them?
>>
>> ok, if i am going to ask i might as well go all the way:- my plan for
>> drying
>> is to sandwich them in between gypsum/drywall board in 1ft by 1ft stacks
>> about 8 stacks high. i hope (please please) this keeps them flat. after
>> they are stacked i am putting them in drying cabinets with a pan of water
>> under them, & figuring on a drying time of approximately 1 week.?
>> does this sound like the correct approach? any advice will be, gosh ummm,
>> praised, worshipped, implemented...
>>
>> thanks for your time,
>> John-
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>>
>>
____________________________________________________________________________
_>> _
>>
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Tile Setters are available from most suppliers. They are sized for common
available tiles such as 4" x 4" or 6" x 6". The setters are either of the
open type in which they support the tiles on 2 edges, or have a back on them
and support the tile on 3 edges.
I prefer the ones that are totally open. Many of these setters can go to
c/10 in a reduction or oxidizing atmosphere, but CHECK with your supplier.
There are some ones from a company in Mexico that I wouldn't trust, IMHO.
Domestic setters are made by most of the kiln furniture manufacturers. We
are particularly impressed with the ones from Ferro. (yes the frit people
but I'll bet many don't know that their refractories division manufactures
high quality shelves and furniture for the tile, tableware and sanitary ware
industries)
Their Ohio plant produces a myriad of sizes and configurations of tile
setters. They do have a minimum order.
We have used their products for many years and their quality and range of
products is quite high.
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan, president
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
voice and fax 970 879-9139
jdkaplan@cmn.net
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
Plant Location:
1280 13th Street Unit 13
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
(please use this address for all deliveries via UPS, comman carrier, FEd Ex,
etc.)
"Custom design and manufacturing for the ceramic arts, giftware and pottery
industries. Molds for slip casting, joggering and hydraulic pressing.
Consultation on technical issues such as clay boides, glazes, and kilns."
Joseph Dallas on fri 19 jan 01
Hi John,
Welcome to Clayart. The short answer is, Yes "they" do make
tile setters that go to cone 10. Most supply places,such
as Axner's, carry them.
Now the long answer. Vitrification and/or frost proof is
not determined by the cone. Clays can be formulated to
stand freeze/thaw that are cone 6 or lower. What you have
to consider is not just the cone and vitrification, but to
stand freeze/thaw, what the absorbtion rate or % is. A very
tight body with low absorbtion may work for you or a very
open/toothy body with a higher % of absorbtion will work.
I do not claim to know the dynamics of why this is so.
Maybe someone with more knowledge than I, can explain.
Now as far as your drying plan. Sandwiching the tile
between sheets of drywall will "help" keep them flat.
But this is not the only consideration. What size are
they and what is their thickness related to that
dimension? Smaller tiles can be thinner, Larger tiles
need to be thicker, to maintain a relative degree of
flatness. Also, your making process needs to be considered.
Are you using a slab roller? Or are you mold pressing the
tiles? Given, your description, it sounds as though
you are rolling the slabs and pressing the names into
the tiles. If that is the case, then you must be very
careful not to bend the slab or tiles when handleing
them. And depending on clay and thickness a week of
drying may not be nearly enough time. I usually dry
for at least three weeks depending on humidity.
But then, I don't use a drying cabinet.
If you consider all the above, then maybe you
will get flat usable tiles on your first try.
I do not claim to be an expert. But just trying to
help you keep from making the mistakes I've made.
Best Regards,
Joe Dallas
Dallas Pottery
Columbus, GA. USA
jedalls@att.net
John Baise wrote:
>
>
>
> i'm making ceramic tiles, imprinted
> with names, for a skateboard park here in Colorado. since the tiles need to
> be vitrified/frost proof i need them to go to cone 10.
> do "they" make tile setters that go to cone 10?
>
>
> my plan for drying
> is to sandwich them in between gypsum/drywall board in 1ft by 1ft stacks
> about 8 stacks high. i hope (please please) this keeps them flat. after
> they are stacked i am putting them in drying cabinets with a pan of water
> under them, & figuring on a drying time of approximately 1 week.?
> does this sound like the correct approach? any advice will be, gosh ummm,
> praised, worshipped, implemented...
>
> thanks for your time,
> John-
> _________________________________________________________________
>
Gail Dapogny on fri 19 jan 01
Hi John,
I used my tile setter with 6 inch tiles to cone 9. They almost all warped
(even though the place that sold them to me said they were good to cone
10!). They were average thickness.
---Gail
>John Baise wrote:
>> My question(s) then is: do "they" make tile setters that go to cone 10?
>> i've seen plenty that are good up to cone 6 but have found discrepancies
>> about cone 10 setters.?
>> If so, could someone advise me on where to purchase them?
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
Sheila Tarshis on sat 20 jan 01
Hi, John,
I dry my tiles between drywall pieces, sometimes stacked and sometimes
stacked and weighted and on a flat surface. If your original surface is
warped at all, the drywall assumes the same warp.
There is a company in Texas that sells used tile setters for good prices. I
don't know if they fire to cone 10. I fire low fire so I am not sure.
Here's the name and number: CLAYWORLD 210-222-1331. They were formerly Hood
Clays.
Hope this helps.
Sheila in cold miserable Cleveland, OH!
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