Stephani Stephenson on sat 27 jan 01
Separate them with a good tile saw. then , if necessary hit any
rough spots with a dremel to smooth out any slag (wearing safety
goggles of course), redaub with glaze, refire.
Stephani Stephenson
Leucadia CA
http://home.earthlink.net/~mudmistress/
http://www.alchemiestudio.com
Carol Sandberg on sat 27 jan 01
Hi Everyone,
I need help, please!
Anyone who knows what I can do to possibly save some mugs.....last night =
I fired a kiln load of 27 coffee mugs for some coworkers (late =
Christmas gifts.....I tried to get them done on time....but they were =
too time consuming.......I overextended myself, again) and what =
happened was that I had to stilt several (cone 6 porcelain oxidation) =
because the design included glaze on the textured bevel at the base. =
During the firing, the stilts under two of them either gave out or the =
mugs weren't balanced properly, but anyway two fell over, touching two =
other mugs and fused on to the innocent bystanders. If the mugs had not =
been individually personalized with names, I would just trash them and =
move on. But I have put so much time in them (the names are in relief =
and there is a complex design on each) that I'd like to do what I can to =
save them. If I lose four, I will have to delay giving away any of the =
mugs, because I don't want to exclude anyone.
They are touching at the top, one leaning against the other about an =
inch down from the rim....connected by clear glaze which is not terribly =
thick. =20
Here is my question: Would it be best to try to force them apart with a =
small screwdriver in-between (and risk breaking them?) Is there a =
gentler way I can do this to minimize the risk? Would a "Rod Saw" be =
better? Or a thin grinding wheel on my Dremel? Would heating them up =
help at all? If I can just get them apart, I could dremel the flaws =
smooth and reglaze, and refire. But I don't want to break them, if I =
can avoid it!
If I do successfully separate them, is there a specific grinding tool =
for a Dremel which would work best to grind down the glaze flaws? (I =
have a cone-shaped tip which I think is aluminum oxide ......?.....Is =
that going to be strong enough?)
Has anyone ever done this successfully? Please, if anyone knows any =
helpful hints, I would be so grateful!
Thanks in Advance,
Carol, in Indiana
michael wendt on sat 27 jan 01
Carol,
Most of the group in the past has advocated tossing such things, but the
technical challenge is not great. A wafer thin diamond blade for the dremel
will make short work of the join. Water can be used to cool the cut and as
always, use eye protection and if you dry grind, use a dust mask and work
outside since the particles are very fine and remain suspended in air for a
long time. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM OXIDE WHEELS ON POTTERY. Silicon Carbide eats
through glaze like magic while aluminum oxide gets hot, glazes over and can
even shatter. All is not lost.
Regards,
Michael Wendt wendtpot@lewiston.com
Carol wrote:
Here is my question: Would it be best to try to force them apart with a
small screwdriver in-between (and risk breaking them?) Is there a gentler
way I can do this to minimize the risk? Would a "Rod Saw" be better? Or a
thin grinding wheel on my Dremel?
Cindy Strnad on sat 27 jan 01
Hi, Carol.
If the mugs aren't too intimate, you should be able to separate them just by
holding one in one hand and one in the other and snapping them apart. Like
Orton cones. If you can't snap them apart that way, I think you'll probably
have to make new ones.
I don't blame you for wanting to save them, but in the real world, sometimes
it truly is more trouble than making new ones, even if they're highly
decorated. However, here's what I would do if I decided to try:
If the glaze flaw is large, grind down with an angle grinder, using a
masonry disk. Wear your dragon hide gloves, specs, and mask and do this
somewhere you're not worried about spreading fine dust--like not right next
to the good stuff--because then you'll have to do a dishwashing job on
everything, too.
If the flaw is small, you can use a Dremel tool with an aluminum oxide stone
(or silicon carbide if that's all you have) to smooth it out. You may want
to fine-tune your angle grinder work with the Dremel tool if you don't get
it just like you wanted it.
If the flaw is full of bubbles, or if it goes all the way to the clay, daub
on a bit of thick glaze (from the wall of the glaze bucket) and re-fire to
glaze temperature. If the flaw is just a rough place in the glaze, you can
re-fire without touching up.
Pray. It doesn't always work all that well.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Joanne L. Van Bezooyen on sat 27 jan 01
The only thing I can envision is using some epoxy to put together one fan=
tastic sculpture for the office!
Joanne in Tucson
Carol Sandberg wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I need help, please!
>
> Anyone who knows what I can do to possibly save some mugs.....last nigh=
t I fired a kiln load of 27 coffee mugs for some coworkers (late Christm=
as gifts.....I tried to get them done on time....but they were too time c=
onsuming.......I overextended myself, again) and what happened was that =
I had to stilt several (cone 6 porcelain oxidation) because the design in=
cluded glaze on the textured bevel at the base. During the firing, the st=
ilts under two of them either gave out or the mugs weren't balanced prope=
rly, but anyway two fell over, touching two other mugs and fused on to th=
e innocent bystanders. If the mugs had not been individually personalized=
with names, I would just trash them and move on. But I have put so much=
time in them (the names are in relief and there is a complex design on e=
ach) that I'd like to do what I can to save them. If I lose four, I will =
have to delay giving away any of the mugs, because I don't want to exclud=
e anyone.
>
> They are touching at the top, one leaning against the other about an in=
ch down from the rim....connected by clear glaze which is not terribly th=
ick.
>
> Here is my question: Would it be best to try to force them apart with =
a small screwdriver in-between (and risk breaking them?) Is there a gent=
ler way I can do this to minimize the risk? Would a "Rod Saw" be better? =
Or a thin grinding wheel on my Dremel? Would heating them up help at all=
? If I can just get them apart, I could dremel the flaws smooth and regla=
ze, and refire. But I don't want to break them, if I can avoid it!
>
> If I do successfully separate them, is there a specific grinding tool f=
or a Dremel which would work best to grind down the glaze flaws? (I have=
a cone-shaped tip which I think is aluminum oxide ......?.....Is that go=
ing to be strong enough?)
>
> Has anyone ever done this successfully? Please, if anyone knows any he=
lpful hints, I would be so grateful!
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Carol, in Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________________________________=
_______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pcl=
ink.com.
--
Joanne L. Van Bezooyen
520-749-1685
Art Gecko Designs
http://www.arteriordesigns.com/noname.html
voice & fax: 520 760-1584
11220 East Via Madre
Tucson, Arizona 85749 USA
Earl Brunner on sat 27 jan 01
Can't see any way that you will be able to "Save" them without some
defect showing.
Give them all to the recipients, and show the damaged ones to the
intended recipient and explain that you didn't forget them, but that you
feel that you need to remake them.
Or wait on all of them.
Carol Sandberg wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I need help, please!
>
> Anyone who knows what I can do to possibly save some mugs.....last night I fired a kiln load of 27 coffee mugs for some coworkers (late Christmas gifts.....I tried to get them done on time....but they were too time consuming.......I overextended myself, again) and what happened was that I had to stilt several (cone 6 porcelain oxidation) because the design included glaze on the textured bevel at the base. During the firing, the stilts under two of them either gave out or the mugs weren't balanced properly, but anyway two fell over, touching two other mugs and fused on to the innocent bystanders. If the mugs had not been individually personalized with names, I would just trash them and move on. But I have put so much time in them (the names are in relief and there is a complex design on each) that I'd like to do what I can to save them. If I lose four, I will have to delay giving away any of the mugs, because I don't want to exclude anyone.
>
> They are touching at the top, one leaning against the other about an inch down from the rim....connected by clear glaze which is not terribly thick.
>
> Here is my question: Would it be best to try to force them apart with a small screwdriver in-between (and risk breaking them?) Is there a gentler way I can do this to minimize the risk? Would a "Rod Saw" be better? Or a thin grinding wheel on my Dremel? Would heating them up help at all? If I can just get them apart, I could dremel the flaws smooth and reglaze, and refire. But I don't want to break them, if I can avoid it!
>
> If I do successfully separate them, is there a specific grinding tool for a Dremel which would work best to grind down the glaze flaws? (I have a cone-shaped tip which I think is aluminum oxide ......?.....Is that going to be strong enough?)
>
> Has anyone ever done this successfully? Please, if anyone knows any helpful hints, I would be so grateful!
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Carol, in Indiana
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Earl Brunner
http://coyote.accessnv.com/bruec
mailto:bruec@anv.net
Rhonda Oldland on sun 28 jan 01
Well, since it is probably a loss anyway I would try and use a propane
torch . Get two folks to hold onto the handles pulling slightly as you heat
the glaze where they have been fused together. Before I did this I would
heat the cups to avoid thermal shock. If the cups are fused together at the
handles maybe take some thongs and have even pulling as you heat....I bet
you had a better word than whiffle's. Rhonda
At 16:59 1/27/01 -0700, you wrote:
>The only thing I can envision is using some epoxy to put together one
fantastic sculpture for the office!
>Joanne in Tucson
>
>Carol Sandberg wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I need help, please!
>>
>> Anyone who knows what I can do to possibly save some mugs.....last night
I fired a kiln load of 27 coffee mugs for some coworkers (late Christmas
gifts.....I tried to get them done on time....but they were too time
consuming.......I overextended myself, again) and what happened was that I
had to stilt several (cone 6 porcelain oxidation) because the design
included glaze on the textured bevel at the base. During the firing, the
stilts under two of them either gave out or the mugs weren't balanced
properly, but anyway two fell over, touching two other mugs and fused on to
the innocent bystanders. If the mugs had not been individually personalized
with names, I would just trash them and move on. But I have put so much
time in them (the names are in relief and there is a complex design on
each) that I'd like to do what I can to save them. If I lose four, I will
have to delay giving away any of the mugs, because I don't want to exclude
anyone.
>>
>> They are touching at the top, one leaning against the other about an
inch down from the rim....connected by clear glaze which is not terribly
thick.
>>
>> Here is my question: Would it be best to try to force them apart with a
small screwdriver in-between (and risk breaking them?) Is there a gentler
way I can do this to minimize the risk? Would a "Rod Saw" be better? Or a
thin grinding wheel on my Dremel? Would heating them up help at all? If I
can just get them apart, I could dremel the flaws smooth and reglaze, and
refire. But I don't want to break them, if I can avoid it!
>>
>> If I do successfully separate them, is there a specific grinding tool
for a Dremel which would work best to grind down the glaze flaws? (I have
a cone-shaped tip which I think is aluminum oxide ......?.....Is that going
to be strong enough?)
>>
>> Has anyone ever done this successfully? Please, if anyone knows any
helpful hints, I would be so grateful!
>>
>> Thanks in Advance,
>>
>> Carol, in Indiana
>>
>>
______________________________________________________________________________
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>--
>Joanne L. Van Bezooyen
>520-749-1685
>Art Gecko Designs
>http://www.arteriordesigns.com/noname.html
>voice & fax: 520 760-1584
>11220 East Via Madre
>Tucson, Arizona 85749 USA
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Logan Oplinger on wed 31 jan 01
Rhonda,
---- you wrote:
>...maybe take some thongs and have even pulling as you heat...
Please explain in detail, how do you use these "thongs"???
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