Jean Cappadonna Nichols on tue 6 feb 01
Gil,
I had the same problem with my large Olympic oval kiln and solved the problem
by lining the rim of the kiln with ceramic kiln fiber purchased from Axner.
It now comes in a non-harmful formula. I think I bought about two feet of it.
It is about 24" wide. I then cut strips the width of my kiln brick, laid the
strips end to end around the rim of the kiln just before lowering the lid.
Simple solution but it worked like a charm. The fiber is a little pricey, but
saved a lot of sculpture from cracking.
Good luck,
Jean Cappadonna-Nichols
Axner has an 800 # if you want to call them: 800-843-7057. Other pottery
suppliers should also have this product.
Dennis Mummert on tue 6 feb 01
Actually, it doesn't hurt the elements much, if at all. This is from a
personal experience standpoint... I coated the inside of my glaze kiln with
wash the day after I got it. Also the lip area. The only place I did NOT
coat was (both sides of) the lid itself.
In retrospect, I did make a mistake. I should not have applied kiln wash to
the brick junctions, as the wash tends to bridge them, and then due to
expansion and contraction, eventually pops a piece of brick out. It only
happens at the joints, though. The reason for not coating the lid is the
same reason - Learned the hard way. All the spitting of brick particles
occurs the first few times of firing. I got away with it because I just
turned the lid over.
Yah, I slopped some into the element channel, and got it on the elements.
Been running 3-4 times a week for 3 years, the elements don't show much, if
any, degradation. Looks like they're going to outlast the thermocouple.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Arnold Howard
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 3:24 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Sealing Electric Kiln Lid Lip
Hi Gil,
Please do not coat the lid and rim of firebrick with kiln wash. If
the powder filters down into an element groove, it will burn out an
element.
Does the lid rise in the front during firing?
Thanks,
Arnold Howard
Paragon
Gil Freedman on tue 6 feb 01
I believe too much heat is being lost through the crack formed by the lid
when closed.
What are your thoughts on coating the two lips with kiln wash?
Might it help?
Might it damage the kiln?
Lurker Gil Freedman, spouse of potter Laura in Mechanicsburg PA.
Cindy Strnad on tue 6 feb 01
Hi, Gil.
All the electric kiln lids do that--show a crack at the top end of the
firing. At least, all that I've ever seen do it. You can stuff the crack by
laying a layer of refractory fiber around the edge, but then you have the
danger of inhaling the fibers and, I expect, of having them settle on your
pottery, if you're not careful. I can't see that kiln wash would make a
difference.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Arnold Howard on tue 6 feb 01
Hi Gil,
Please do not coat the lid and rim of firebrick with kiln wash. If
the powder filters down into an element groove, it will burn out an
element.
Does the lid rise in the front during firing?
Thanks,
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Gil Freedman wrote:
> I believe too much heat is being lost through the crack
> formed by the lid
> when closed.
>
> What are your thoughts on coating the two lips with kiln
> wash?
>
> Might it help?
>
> Might it damage the kiln?
>
> Lurker Gil Freedman, spouse of potter Laura in
> Mechanicsburg PA.
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Dai Scott on wed 7 feb 01
I think that Greenbarn (Surrey, BC) had a ceramic fiber "rope" at one time,
and may still do. I thought that might be a good solution to the uneven
kiln/lid problem. Would be less messy to handle than cut-up ceramic fiber,
maybe. Other suppliers should have something similar.
Dai in Kelowna, BC - with the same problem and temporarily fixing it with
bits of fiber---very unsatisfactory. Putting off finding a REAL solution,
because it may stall the purchase of a badly-needed new kiln!
potterybydai@home.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Cappadonna Nichols"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Sealing Electric Kiln Lid Lip
> Gil,
> I had the same problem with my large Olympic oval kiln and solved the
problem
> by lining the rim of the kiln with ceramic kiln fiber purchased from
Axner.
> It now comes in a non-harmful formula. I think I bought about two feet of
it.
> It is about 24" wide. I then cut strips the width of my kiln brick, laid
the
> strips end to end around the rim of the kiln just before lowering the lid.
> Simple solution but it worked like a charm. The fiber is a little pricey,
but
> saved a lot of sculpture from cracking.
>
> Good luck,
> Jean Cappadonna-Nichols
> Axner has an 800 # if you want to call them: 800-843-7057. Other pottery
> suppliers should also have this product.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Dai Scott on thu 8 feb 01
Hi, Logan - what state is the clay/grog mixture? Slip-py? Stiff? I'm
thinking if it was soft enough, you could lay paper or some other barrier on
top of the clay, then close the lid, to get a "perfect" fit.
Dai in Kelowna, BC, thinking this is too easy!
potterybydai@home.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Logan Oplinger"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 9:37 PM
Subject: Re: Sealing Electric Kiln Lid Lip
> Gil,
>
> To obtain a better seal between the kiln lid and lip:
>
> First, when kiln is cool, place electric light inside, run cord out
through peep hole, close lid & turn light on and note where light leaks
through. Then either
>
> A. Sand off high spots on kiln wall lip using coarse sandpaper on a flat
board. Frequently vacuum up brick dust (for your safety and to see your
progress). Test lid closure & continue sanding until only a very slight
space remains; or
>
> B. Fill in space between lid and kiln wall lip with 50/50 mix of plastic
stoneware clay and fine grog. Smear the clay/grog mix onto the lip w/ your
fingers where the light leaks through. Let set and remove any excess w/ a
sur-form rasp.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Logan Oplinger
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Get the Latest News at CNN Interactive: http://CNN.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Logan Oplinger on thu 8 feb 01
Gil,
To obtain a better seal between the kiln lid and lip:
First, when kiln is cool, place electric light inside, run cord out through peep hole, close lid & turn light on and note where light leaks through. Then either
A. Sand off high spots on kiln wall lip using coarse sandpaper on a flat board. Frequently vacuum up brick dust (for your safety and to see your progress). Test lid closure & continue sanding until only a very slight space remains; or
B. Fill in space between lid and kiln wall lip with 50/50 mix of plastic stoneware clay and fine grog. Smear the clay/grog mix onto the lip w/ your fingers where the light leaks through. Let set and remove any excess w/ a sur-form rasp.
Hope this helps.
Logan Oplinger
------------------------------------------------------
Get the Latest News at CNN Interactive: http://CNN.com
Bobbi Bassett on fri 9 feb 01
In a message dated 02/08/2001 9:46:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
loganoplinger@PACIFIC-OCEAN.COM writes:
> . Fill in space between lid and kiln wall lip with 50/50 mix of plastic
> stoneware clay and fine grog. Smear the clay/grog mix onto the lip w/ your
> fingers where the light leaks through. Let set and remove any excess w/ a
> sur-form rasp.
Seems to me that as the clay mixture dries/fires it will flake/chip off and
possibly drop in on and contaminate pieces you put in the kiln. I have used
ground soft kiln brick mixed with kiln cement as a filler for chipped edges
and repairs around the edge. It adheres to the kiln edge very nicely and
doesn't chip off. I keep a small batch in a sealed container for quick
repairs. I have used this method for 20 years with no detrimental results.
Bobbi in PA
Logan Oplinger on mon 12 feb 01
Bobbi,
Good points. Reducing shrinkage was the reason I added grog to clay. Is the kiln cement you use the dry powder or the pre-mixed wet? What proportion of soft brick powder do you add to the cement?
Logan Oplinger
> Seems to me that as the clay mixture dries/fires it will flake/chip off and
> possibly drop in on and contaminate pieces you put in the kiln. I have used
> ground soft kiln brick mixed with kiln cement as a filler for chipped edges
> and repairs around the edge. It adheres to the kiln edge very nicely and
> doesn't chip off. I keep a small batch in a sealed container for quick
> repairs. I have used this method for 20 years with no detrimental results.
>
> Bobbi in PA
------------------------------------------------------
Get the Latest News at CNN Interactive: http://CNN.com
Arnold Howard on tue 20 feb 01
The powdered soft brick that Bobbi mentioned below is available
from Paragon. Due to demand, we made it available for brick repair.
Mix grog (the powdered brick) with kiln cement half and half, then
add water.
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Bobbi Bassett wrote:
> In a message dated 02/08/2001 9:46:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> loganoplinger@PACIFIC-OCEAN.COM writes:
>
> > . Fill in space between lid and kiln wall lip with 50/50 mix
> of plastic
> > stoneware clay and fine grog. Smear the clay/grog mix onto the
> lip w/ your
> > fingers where the light leaks through. Let set and remove any
> excess w/ a
> > sur-form rasp.
>
> Seems to me that as the clay mixture dries/fires it will
> flake/chip off and
> possibly drop in on and contaminate pieces you put in the kiln. I
> have used
> ground soft kiln brick mixed with kiln cement as a filler for
> chipped edges
> and repairs around the edge. It adheres to the kiln edge very
> nicely and
> doesn't chip off. I keep a small batch in a sealed container for
> quick
> repairs. I have used this method for 20 years with no detrimental
> results.
>
> Bobbi in PA
>
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Mark Duerr on tue 20 feb 01
The thought of chunks of clay falling onto my glaze ware
because I wanted to plug the leaks in my electric kiln
cover makes me shutter. . . I use thin pieces of refractory
fiber that was given to me by a parent of one of my
students. The guy tears out boilers and said they just
"throw the stuff away". It does a great job of keeping in
the heat. . .and it doesn't deteriorate into hard chunks
that can fall onto the pots.
Mark Duerr
>The powdered soft brick that Bobbi mentioned below is available
>from Paragon. Due to demand, we made it available for brick repair.
>
>Mix grog (the powdered brick) with kiln cement half and half, then
>add water.
>
>Arnold Howard
>Paragon
>
>--- Bobbi Bassett wrote:
>> In a message dated 02/08/2001 9:46:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> loganoplinger@PACIFIC-OCEAN.COM writes:
>>
>> > . Fill in space between lid and kiln wall lip with 50/50 mix
>> of plastic
>> > stoneware clay and fine grog. Smear the clay/grog mix onto the
>> lip w/ your
>> > fingers where the light leaks through. Let set and remove any
>> excess w/ a
>> > sur-form rasp.
>>
>> Seems to me that as the clay mixture dries/fires it will
>> flake/chip off and
>> possibly drop in on and contaminate pieces you put in the kiln. I
>> have used
>> ground soft kiln brick mixed with kiln cement as a filler for
>> chipped edges
>> and repairs around the edge. It adheres to the kiln edge very
>> nicely and
>> doesn't chip off. I keep a small batch in a sealed container for
>> quick
>> repairs. I have used this method for 20 years with no detrimental
>> results.
>>
>> Bobbi in PA
>>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
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>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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