tomsawyer on fri 2 mar 01
Cindy,
I have about 20 different color terra sigs made from goldart and Mason
stains. I have been experimenting using them at high temperature cone 10 in
reduction and have generally been disappointed with many of the colors going
real ugly. I haven't bothered buffing the surfaces shiny since the shine is
lost at high temperatures anyway. I like using the terra sig because I can
apply it to leather hard or bisque ware. I decided to try firing at cone 6
oxidation but first I bisque fired the terra sig at cone 05 and then I
wanted to spray some mason stain over the top of the bisque fired piece.
Everything went fine and the pots look real nice but the stain is very
powdery and just falls off the pot at the slightest procation. I thinking
there must be something I could add to the stain/3134 or gerstley that would
make it adhere until fired to cone 6. Your right about the surface being
smooth even though I don't purposely shine it. I just wondered if anyone
else had an easy fix; I am going to try adding some syrup or spay over the
top with hairspray. Thanks. Any suggestions appreciated.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
tomsawyer on fri 2 mar 01
I've often used various oxides for body color and occasionally stains. =
The stains have worked with varying consistency and many have to some =
degree rubbed off after firing. I've read where mixing the stain with =
gerstley or with a frit such as 3134 will help the stain attach better =
than by itself. Yesterday I mixed up a Mason crimson stain with gerstley =
2/3 to 1/3 and sprayed it onto a pot that had a yellow terra sig giving =
it a hint of red. It is really very nice but the trouble is that the =
stain just powdered off wherever it was touched. Is there anything I =
could add to the stain/gersley mix that would harden it? Thanks to all =
who respond.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
Cindy Strnad on fri 2 mar 01
Hello, Tom.
First, I suspect from the context of your letter that you're not talking
about what I would consider to be "body color", which would mean mixing the
stain into the actual clay body before forming. I think you're talking about
applying the stain to a bisque-fired, or bone dry piece.
I use about half and half Frit 3134 and stain. You can add clay, too, of
course. But I'm firing to ^6. At that temperature, the stains generally do
sinter to the body, but it depends on the stain. Some are better than
others.
And I expect it may be harder to get the stain to stick to a smooth surface
like a terra sig. Especially at low fire temperatures. The more frit you
add, the more your stain will melt. It's possible another frit would be
better for low fire, also. I haven't tried other frits since this works for
me.
If you're doing art pottery, you might also consider non-fired coatings, but
I don't know if you'd want to do this to terra sig. If the stain has some
adherence, a nice coat of turtle wax could be worth a try.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Khaimraj Seepersad on fri 2 mar 01
Hello to All ,
Tom ,
what temperature did you fire your mix to - 04 or 06 ?
Khaimraj
-----Original Message-----
From: tomsawyer
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: 02 March 2001 11:44
Subject: Stain for body color
I've often used various oxides for body color and occasionally stains. The
stains have worked with varying consistency and many have to some degree
rubbed off after firing. I've read where mixing the stain with gerstley or
with a frit such as 3134 will help the stain attach better than by itself.
Yesterday I mixed up a Mason crimson stain with gerstley 2/3 to 1/3 and
sprayed it onto a pot that had a yellow terra sig giving it a hint of red.
It is really very nice but the trouble is that the stain just powdered off
wherever it was touched. Is there anything I could add to the stain/gersley
mix that would harden it? Thanks to all who respond.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
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Mayssan1@AOL.COM on sat 3 mar 01
Dear Tom:
I work a lot with Mason stains on bisque without the Terrasig. and I always
mix 3134 with it as it will tend to be powdery without it and will not accept
the clear glaze that I dip it in after I finish painting.
It also needs to be diluted, If you use too much stain to water ratio, it
will also get powdery.
Oh, I bisque at ^05 and fire to ^6 ox.
I hope I understood your question and was of some help.
Best regards,
Mayssan
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