Cindy Strnad on sat 3 mar 01
Hi, Priscilla.
The problem with using pure stains on your ware is that the stains will not
sinter to the ware at ^6. You'll find you're able to wash them off.
However, if you add them to leather-hard work, and work them into the
surface, they may be just the ticket for you. Try it and let us know.
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
STVC on sat 3 mar 01
Priscilla,
>From another defacto "Exhibit A" novice, at least when it comes to
glazing...and there appear to be more mentors than executioners on this list
by far.
"Texture" can mean a lot of things. I'll take a stab in the dark.
I've been able to tease oxides and mason stains onto/into clay texture with
brushes, (use medium stiff bristle art brushes, not those limp hair bamboo
handled glaze brushes) and press or burnish them in with various tools also.
I use a spray bottle and an old hair blow dryer to vary and control the
process with respect to the wetness of the clay surface. It's also
interesting to do this before texture is applied so parts of the underlying
clay shows through as a result of the texturing process. The idea is to
ever so slightly mix the stains into the surface clay. The objects I
applied this process to were large vessels and tiles, and their textures
were never precious or fine. Don't know if this applies to what you are
doing, but good luck either way.
P.S. Just go ahead and TRY to do a search on "white glaze" in the archives
using the first search box. (...I know I know. I finally did figure out to
leave all blank but the, "The subject is or contains:" box for such
searches. Finally got my list of 138 after several long sessions waiting
for the server to tell me, "I've fallen and I can't get up...")
Steve Van Cleave
Vista, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Priscilla Wilson and/or Janice Lymburner
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 3:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Oxide stains w/ no frit or slip?
Hi, y'all - Here I am again, "Exhibit A" novice... I've spent quite a bit of
time trying to get clarification on this point in the archives without
success - and have been given confusing and conflicting answers by potters I
know. I want a stain for highlighting textures (doing this on greenware and
single firing ^6). Can I mix oxides and/or mason stains with only water? I
don't want any glaze and don't want to mix with slip because of thickness
that will obscure texture. I do use some Amaco underglazes, but they're not
the answer for this particular purpose, because they don't wipe back off
easily. My experiments so far have yielded very mixed results. By the way,
something I've tried in this area that seems to have promise is painting
stains (or underglaze) on at the leather hard stage. They look more even
after firing than when I've put it on bone dry stuff.
To the folks also reading the thread about novice questions to Clayart, I'd
like to say that all in all, you've struck a good balance between patient
helpfulness and pushing us out there to do our homework!
Many thanks,
Priscilla (Gee, I wish there were more than one Priscilla in this group!!)
____________________________________________________________________________
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Priscilla Wilson and/or Janice Lymburner on sat 3 mar 01
Hi, y'all - Here I am again, "Exhibit A" novice... I've spent quite a =
bit of time trying to get clarification on this point in the archives =
without success - and have been given confusing and conflicting answers =
by potters I know. I want a stain for highlighting textures (doing this =
on greenware and single firing ^6). Can I mix oxides and/or mason stains =
with only water? I don't want any glaze and don't want to mix with slip =
because of thickness that will obscure texture. I do use some Amaco =
underglazes, but they're not the answer for this particular purpose, =
because they don't wipe back off easily. My experiments so far have =
yielded very mixed results. By the way, something I've tried in this =
area that seems to have promise is painting stains (or underglaze) on at =
the leather hard stage. They look more even after firing than when I've =
put it on bone dry stuff.=20
To the folks also reading the thread about novice questions to Clayart, =
I'd like to say that all in all, you've struck a good balance between =
patient helpfulness and pushing us out there to do our homework!
Many thanks,
Priscilla (Gee, I wish there were more than one Priscilla in this =
group!!)
Marcia Selsor on sun 4 mar 01
I'd say you need to mix the stains with something. You can do it with a
frit OR slip. The stains are fritted( they have been fired and ground up
very fine) already and will not flux on adhere well to any surface
without some binder-a frit of slip. You could mix a thin wash with say
50% frit or more. make a few test tiles with texture and try some
combinations of boron versus soda frits.
These may change the color reaction somewhat.
Marcia in Montana
Priscilla Wilson and/or Janice Lymburner wrote:
>
> Hi, y'all - Here I am again, "Exhibit A" novice... I've spent quite a bit of time trying to get clarification on this point in the archives without success - and have been given confusing and conflicting answers by potters I know. I want a stain for highlighting textures (doing this on greenware and single firing ^6). Can I mix oxides and/or mason stains with only water? I don't want any glaze and don't want to mix with slip because of thickness that will obscure texture. I do use some Amaco underglazes, but they're not the answer for this particular purpose, because they don't wipe back off easily. My experiments so far have yielded very mixed results. By the way, something I've tried in this area that seems to have promise is painting stains (or underglaze) on at the leather hard stage. They look more even after firing than when I've put it on bone dry stuff.
>
> To the folks also reading the thread about novice questions to Clayart, I'd like to say that all in all, you've struck a good balance between patient helpfulness and pushing us out there to do our homework!
>
> Many thanks,
> Priscilla (Gee, I wish there were more than one Priscilla in this group!!)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
Marcia Selsor
selsor@imt.net
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Tuscany2001.html
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/Gallery.html
Wade Blocker on sun 4 mar 01
Dear Pricilla,
Since you single fire staining does not become a possibility. On bisque
ware, the stain is diluted with water and painted on, then much is removed
by repeated damp sponging. until just enough stain or oxide is left in the
depressions. On greenware you would remove some of the clay by sponging.
The only way you can work, is to brush on a thin coat of stain, but that
might not go into the depressions, just create an overall covering on the
clay.
Stains or oxides need only be mixed with water for the staining
process.Hope this answers your question. Mia in sunny ABQ
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