Wade Blocker on sun 4 mar 01
Chris,
Try saw dust. Available free in most lumber yards. I would not try to
incorporate anything made of plastic, because of the possible toxic fumes
during burn out. Mia in sunny ABQ
Elca Branman on sun 4 mar 01
Try grapenuts
On Sun, 4 Mar 2001 11:07:35 EST Chris Campbell
writes:
> I am trying to come up with ideas for getting a finished piece to
> look like a
> weathered stone building. I want to mix stuff into the clay that
> will burn
> out and leave pits all through the sculpture.
>
Elca Branman.. in Sarasota,Florida,USA
elcab1@juno.com
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Chris Campbell on sun 4 mar 01
I am trying to come up with ideas for getting a finished piece to look like a
weathered stone building. I want to mix stuff into the clay that will burn
out and leave pits all through the sculpture. I have been thinking of rice,
vermiculite, seeds, peas and such .... anybody got any other brainstorms?? I
would love to try crumbled foam but would that really totally burn out or
just melt and be ghastly to clean up after?
Thanks
Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Snail Scott on sun 4 mar 01
At 11:07 AM 3/4/01 EST, you wrote:
>I am trying to come up with ideas for getting a finished piece to look like a
>weathered stone building. I want to mix stuff into the clay that will burn
>out and leave pits all through the sculpture...
>would love to try crumbled foam but would that really totally burn out or
>just melt and be ghastly to clean up after?
>Thanks
>Chris Campbell - in North Carolina
Yes, foam will totally burn out. Nasty fumes, though.
Vermiculite works pretty well; wheat germ might make
tiny, sandy-looking pits. How about cracker crumbs?
Or broken breakfast cereal? (Grape-Nuts, maybe?)
How about coarse cornmeal (the sort people sprinkle on
the tabletop when making bread)?
-Snail
Cat Jarosz on sun 4 mar 01
Chris try some fine sawdust wedged into the clay..... I did this gosh
10 - 12 yrs ago in college with some huge tiles I had made and the result
was sooo exciting... I also fired em ontop of each other and wow the color
was so awesome ie red on outter edges fading to grey and hints of black
then to white ... couldnt have thought up that combo and ended up not
glaze firing them ..... neat texture and cool colors but as I recall
it sure got the studio smokey .... Cat
Linda Blossom on sun 4 mar 01
How about pressing the material into the surface so that you can control the
distribution? It seems that mixing it into the clay will cause it to be
quite regular and even on the surface. But then again, that might be what
you want. I once saw a texture that I really liked. The maker had a very
weathered piece of pressed wood board. Chipboard might be another thought.
She used it to press the texture on the clay. I have some out in the snow
and weather just in case it weathers to something I like.
Linda
Ithaca, NY
I am trying to come up with ideas for getting a finished piece to look like
a
> weathered stone building. I want to mix stuff into the clay that will burn
> out and leave pits all through the sculpture. I have been thinking of
rice,
> vermiculite, seeds, peas and such .... anybody got any other
brainstorms?? I
> would love to try crumbled foam but would that really totally burn out or
> just melt and be ghastly to clean up after?
vince pitelka on sun 4 mar 01
> I am trying to come up with ideas for getting a finished piece to look
like a
> weathered stone building. I want to mix stuff into the clay that will burn
> out and leave pits all through the sculpture. I have been thinking of
rice,
> vermiculite, seeds, peas and such .... anybody got any other
brainstorms?? I
> would love to try crumbled foam but would that really totally burn out or
> just melt and be ghastly to clean up after?
Chris -
Lots of combustible materials can be added to the clay in order to give a
porous pock-marked surface after the firing. But beware of any seed or
grain which will pop - puffed rice, puffed wheat, popcorn, etc. These
things can pop when the kiln starts to come up to temperature, causing your
wares to completely disintegrate. I had this happen with some student work
in North Dakota.
It should be a simple matter to test any seed or grain. Place it in an old
metal spoon, and hold it over a gas burner flame or a propane torch. If the
material carbonizes without ever poping, then it should be safe.
One material which works well for this is crushed walnut shells. They are
sometimes used in the manufacture of insulation brick, but the most common
use in industry is as a "sand"-blasting abrasive for finishing plastic and
rubber products. If you look up abrasives on the web you can find lots of
suppliers.
If you can find some fairly small, dense string or cord made from natural
fibers - cotton, wool, etc. - you can bunch it up in a wad of clay and make
something, and when the cord burns out it looks like worm holes in the clay.
It is a little hard to work with the plastic clay with all that string in
there, but the effect can be worth it.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Des Howard on mon 5 mar 01
Chris
Ceramics Technical had an article about work that
had chunks of gelatin mixed in with the clay, interesting texture.
All my copies are out on loan can't give you the exact issue,
try 1996 to date.
Des
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.lisp.com.au
James Bowen on mon 5 mar 01
Be careful with some of the more absorbent
materials such as Grapenuts. They tend to hold a
lot of moisture and if they are inside the body
of the piece can cause blowouts in the firing. I
used Grapenuts in some small thrown bowls no
more than a three eighths of an inch thick and
had pieces all through the bisque kiln even
though they had been drying for about two weeks.
Interesting throwing experience though. Perhaps
just pressed into the surface is what you need.
Milton Markey on tue 6 mar 01
Hi Elca!
I'm a maker of well-textured wares.
I use coffee grounds in my clay, to get the mottled texture you want. One can
apply coffee grounds directly to the wall of a pot, or slab-roll it into a
slab piece.
I use a wet brush, to apply coffee grounds to the side of a pot. Be sure that
the pot is nearing the leather-hard stage, or right after you form it on the
wheel. Be sure the coffee grounds are moist, too.
To slab roll coffee grounds into a tile, or other hand-built ware, sprinkle
the coffee grounds (best if moist) onto the clay, after the first pass (in
other words, flatten the clay first). Pass the clay (with coffee grounds) one
more time through the roller, to the desired thickness.
One can also mix moist coffee grounds into the clay, by kneading the grounds
into a lump of clay. It won't adversely affect the clay and will create a
uniform mottled look to the ware.
Now you can drink drip ground coffee, and have a method to recycle the
grounds, too! I keep a jar of dried coffee grounds on my "texture" shelf. The
grounds burn out cleanly, upon bisque firing.
Best wishes!
Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
Anita M. Swan on wed 7 mar 01
Milton, Your "texture shelf" sounds intriguing - what else is on it? I
make a 'slate' texture with crumpled plastic bags, just ball it up, then
press it on a pot or open it and roll it on to a slab.
Milton Markey wrote:
>
> Hi Elca!
>
> I'm a maker of well-textured wares.
>
> I use coffee grounds in my clay, to get the mottled texture you want. One can
> apply coffee grounds directly to the wall of a pot, or slab-roll it into a
> slab piece.
>
> I use a wet brush, to apply coffee grounds to the side of a pot. Be sure that
> the pot is nearing the leather-hard stage, or right after you form it on the
> wheel. Be sure the coffee grounds are moist, too.
>
> To slab roll coffee grounds into a tile, or other hand-built ware, sprinkle
> the coffee grounds (best if moist) onto the clay, after the first pass (in
> other words, flatten the clay first). Pass the clay (with coffee grounds) one
> more time through the roller, to the desired thickness.
>
> One can also mix moist coffee grounds into the clay, by kneading the grounds
> into a lump of clay. It won't adversely affect the clay and will create a
> uniform mottled look to the ware.
>
> Now you can drink drip ground coffee, and have a method to recycle the
> grounds, too! I keep a jar of dried coffee grounds on my "texture" shelf. The
> grounds burn out cleanly, upon bisque firing.
>
> Best wishes!
>
> Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ababi on wed 7 mar 01
I do not know if it was written. Take a piece of Styrofoam board break it in
a "cruel" way
Now you get very textural surfaces. press it on your piece.
Ababi Sharon
ababisha@shoval.ardom.co.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Milton Markey"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:04 AM
Subject: Re: Advice needed re: texture
> Hi Elca!
>
> I'm a maker of well-textured wares.
>
> I use coffee grounds in my clay, to get the mottled texture you want. One
can
> apply coffee grounds directly to the wall of a pot, or slab-roll it into a
> slab piece.
>
> I use a wet brush, to apply coffee grounds to the side of a pot. Be sure
that
> the pot is nearing the leather-hard stage, or right after you form it on
the
> wheel. Be sure the coffee grounds are moist, too.
>
> To slab roll coffee grounds into a tile, or other hand-built ware,
sprinkle
> the coffee grounds (best if moist) onto the clay, after the first pass (in
> other words, flatten the clay first). Pass the clay (with coffee grounds)
one
> more time through the roller, to the desired thickness.
>
> One can also mix moist coffee grounds into the clay, by kneading the
grounds
> into a lump of clay. It won't adversely affect the clay and will create a
> uniform mottled look to the ware.
>
> Now you can drink drip ground coffee, and have a method to recycle the
> grounds, too! I keep a jar of dried coffee grounds on my "texture" shelf.
The
> grounds burn out cleanly, upon bisque firing.
>
> Best wishes!
>
> Milton NakedClay@AOL.COM
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
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