L. P. Skeen on tue 13 mar 01
> david f and i will be in the fancy bar with the well dressed women
> of clayart. dresses? yes.
Hope y'all have a good time. The rest of us will be enjoying the Clayart
room.........
L
Dai Scott on tue 13 mar 01
Another good tip, which I got from a friend, is: when you drill the holes
in your wheelhead, drill through a metal bar at the same time. Then you
have a permanent "template" for holes which you can use to drill your batts.
Also, a hole in the center of the wheel, and one halfway out to the edge
makes for more steady batts during centering and throwing; the center hole
never seems to get worn out on the batt, either. The outer hole can be
drilled in a different place if it gets worn and sloppy, as Mel mentioned.
All I have to do now is get some batts routered for tiles, and lay in a
stock of tiles. Our drying space is at a premium, with classes, and getting
ready for shows; anything we can do to minimize the amount of space any
given piece takes up will be an improvement!
Dai in Kelowna, BC - that's my five bucks worth!
potterybydai@home.com
Mel said:
> also, when your batts get a bit worn in the hole department...
> just find a good solid batt with nice perfect round holes...use
> it as a template and drill new holes in the crummy ones.
> you stack up about 5 crummy batts with the holes at ninety
> degrees. this gives you a nice new place to drill. tape
> them together with duct tape with the nice batt on top.
> drill through the nice hole and on throught the other batts.
> those with good tools can use c clamps, or better the new
> squeeze the handle clamps...then drill. just keep the good
> batt on top and drill the same size hole through all of them.
mel jacobson on tue 13 mar 01
one should check the cap screws (pins) every so often
and replace as necessary. they are cheap.
also, when your batts get a bit worn in the hole department...
just find a good solid batt with nice perfect round holes...use
it as a template and drill new holes in the crummy ones.
you stack up about 5 crummy batts with the holes at ninety
degrees. this gives you a nice new place to drill. tape
them together with duct tape with the nice batt on top.
drill through the nice hole and on throught the other batts.
those with good tools can use c clamps, or better the new
squeeze the handle clamps...then drill. just keep the good
batt on top and drill the same size hole through all of them.
new holes. perfect placement. back to new.
should get a couple bucks from cm for this good idea.
but, no, i give it away.
now i have to go and check my tie rack...should i wear the
new yellow one, or the bright flame red one, or...blue that
matches my eyes.
choices, choices...and then should i wear the new camel, or
the new gray tweed....????
david f and i will be in the fancy bar with the well dressed women
of clayart. dresses? yes.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on wed 14 mar 01
when i taught in Miami the wheels had bat pins BUT were not screwed using a
nut.
It seemed to me that all the wheels had the holes walloed out because of
student use. I have had my wheel for years and i always use twist nuts when i
use bats.
I think it is important to use nuts when using bats.
just my $.02
Capt Mark
Paul Gerhold on wed 14 mar 01
In my experience no matter how good your bats fit they will not perform
adequately when throwing very tall (two or three foot) pots. To get around
this problem I use two C clamps at 180 degrees to physically clamp the bat to
the wheel head. In my case I have found 2 inch small clamps are more than
adequate and if you cut the screw off to about one inch or so don't interfere
with throwing. Of course I don't use the clamps until after centering.
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