Genice Wimsatt on sat 31 mar 01
Maybe someone here can help me with this. For many years, in my family
business, we have made art tile using the "dry line" method. We screen
print design outlines with Aftosa wax resist mixed with black (Duncan, E Z)
underglaze onto blank bisque tiles and then "fill in the blanks" with low
fire glaze. After 12 to 14 years of success the wax mixed with underglaze
has quit going through the screen correctly. Instead of a nice black wax
line, we are getting a broken black line. It really is not acceptable.
Does anyone out there know what I might use instead of black underglaze?
When we use clear wax, everything works great. So, it seems to be the
underglaze -- I have experimented with Duncan Concepts without success. I
know there is a way for this to result in a nice, clean, very black between
colors when the tiles are fired.
I appreciate any help that anyone is willing to post.
Thanks!
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Penny Hosler on sun 1 apr 01
Genice,
I recently attended a demonstration by a local potter on this, and he
doesn't use wax at all. Said he doesn't have the control he needs with wax.
In order to get a very fine, delicate line he uses oil and manganese dioxide
(although he said black Mason stain would work as well) and a fine liner
brush. We asked what kind of oil and he wouldn't tell us. I know
absolutely nothing about the screen print process, so am not sure if that
would help you. But as long as this particular ball is in the air, does
anyone know the best oil for this? I really admired his delicate lines and
am a klutz with wax and brush.
Penny in WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Genice Wimsatt"
To:
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2001 8:06 PM
Subject: black wax resist for silk screening
> Maybe someone here can help me with this. For many years, in my family
> business, we have made art tile using the "dry line" method. We screen
> print design outlines with Aftosa wax resist mixed with black (Duncan, E
Z)
> underglaze onto blank bisque tiles and then "fill in the blanks" with low
> fire glaze. After 12 to 14 years of success the wax mixed with underglaze
> has quit going through the screen correctly. Instead of a nice black wax
> line, we are getting a broken black line. It really is not acceptable.
> Does anyone out there know what I might use instead of black underglaze?
> When we use clear wax, everything works great. So, it seems to be the
> underglaze -- I have experimented with Duncan Concepts without success. I
> know there is a way for this to result in a nice, clean, very black
between
> colors when the tiles are fired.
>
> I appreciate any help that anyone is willing to post.
> Thanks!
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
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Genice Wimsatt on mon 2 apr 01
Hi Penny,
Thanks for all this information. Actually, I had been wondering if the M=
ason Stains would work and had tried manganese but not manganese dioxide.=
I can hardly wait to try all of this!
>From a china painting project I once worked on, I am thinking that the oi=
l your potter was using could have been propylene glycol (antifreeze). I=
got this tip from Paul Ewing in his screen printing articles in Ceramics=
Monthly and tried it and really liked how it handled but of course, have=
not tried it on bisque yet. =20
Also, Willougby's sells several oils for china painting that I bet would =
work. They describe their "pen oil" as one that dries rapidly and has ex=
cellent flowing quality. Some others they list are oil of lavender, frenc=
h fat oil, gounding oil. =20
They are located in California and their phone number is (530)677-1071. =
I found them to be friendly, understanding and very helpful.
Thank you so much for the Manganese Dioxoide and Mason stain tip. I bet =
it works!
Riva
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IVEarthArt@AOL.COM on mon 2 apr 01
Call Duncan @1-800CERAMIC
Ask for the R&D and pose your problem
Hope that helps, good luck.
Bear
"We are all made of Clay
Just different molds."
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