Hank Murrow on thu 12 apr 01
>Hi-I'm still hunting for a way to make lime green & sunshine yellow ^6-7
>Glazes. If anyone out there can help I'd be sooo grateful! I am currently
>using a ^7 base consisting of 20% each of wollastonite, kaolin, flint,
>frit3134 and custer feldspar. Does anyone know if spectrum stains would work
>with this base at this temp? Any other suggestions? Also-does anyone have
>any suggestions on how to stop edge tiles (the 'L' shaped ones) from warping
>when drying? Please and Thank-You! Carole.
Dear carole;
Don't know if this is a blind alley for you or not; BUT I used to get a
nice lime-green from a barium glaze at C/9-10 R or Ox with the addition of
5% barium chromate. The glaze had nice depth and some mottling,
contributing lots of character. Perhaps a highish Ba glaze might work at
your temperature; but I doubt it could be made food-safe.
Hank in Eugene
Keith & Carole Lehman Henshall on thu 12 apr 01
Hi-I'm still hunting for a way to make lime green & sunshine yellow ^6-7
Glazes. If anyone out there can help I'd be sooo grateful! I am currently
using a ^7 base consisting of 20% each of wollastonite, kaolin, flint,
frit3134 and custer feldspar. Does anyone know if spectrum stains would work
with this base at this temp? Any other suggestions? Also-does anyone have
any suggestions on how to stop edge tiles (the 'L' shaped ones) from warping
when drying? Please and Thank-You! Carole.
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Cindy Strnad on thu 12 apr 01
Hi, Carole.
The base you're using is Tony Hansen's 5x20, and he wrote it specially to be
good with stains. Tony is fond of stains. To learn more about his glaze,
visit http://www.digitalfire.com .
According to "The Ceramic Spectrum" by Robin Hopper, you can get lemon
yellow from praseodymium yellow stains. He recommends from 1-10% additions,
and indicates these stains are good in most glaze bases and temperature
ranges, and best in oxidation.
He doesn't have a listing for "lime" green, but here's what he has to say
about "yellow green":
"Almost any yellow glaze with added copper will produce yellow green."
Copper 2-8% and rutile 2-8%--oxidation or reduction, particularly good in
high alkaline glazes.
Chromium up to 3%--oxy/redux, in yellow glazes without tin.
Cobalt up to 1%--oxy/redux, in any yellow glaze.
So, I hope this is of help to you. I highly recommend Robin's book, by the
way. Have your librarian order one for you if you're in the US, and if you
can't find it on the shelves.
Best of luck,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
Diane Echlin on fri 13 apr 01
I've been using John Hesselberth's (sp?) frog pond green with excellent success. I
use only 3% copper carb, and it's a great limey, 50's era green. it has a finish
to die for---buttery and smooth. Check his web page (I don't have the address
handy) it's Frog Pond Pottery.
Diane in CT, feeling like hibernating until the sun decides to make an appearance
Keith & Carole Lehman Henshall wrote:
> Hi-I'm still hunting for a way to make lime green & sunshine yellow ^6-7
> Glazes. If anyone out there can help I'd be sooo grateful! I am currently
> using a ^7 base consisting of 20% each of wollastonite, kaolin, flint,
> frit3134 and custer feldspar. Does anyone know if spectrum stains would work
> with this base at this temp? Any other suggestions? Also-does anyone have
> any suggestions on how to stop edge tiles (the 'L' shaped ones) from warping
> when drying? Please and Thank-You! Carole.
> _________________________________________________________________________
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