Jeremy McLeod on tue 10 apr 01
This isn't original with me but, alas, I can't remember the clayart-er who posted this suggestion in response to a similar question a while back. It is, however, a genius of an idea.
Simplicity itself. Mount a bathtub on a platform so that it's at waist/working height and call it the utility sink. LOT's of room for washing clay-related items with lots of water. Such genius!
Now all I need to get is a studio with running water!
Susan Fox Hirschmann on wed 11 apr 01
I have taken jennifer boyer's ideas and changed them a bit to include two
kiln rooms, one for electric, one for gas, with minor changes based on my
mixed media work. But I also am happy to share them with you., if you would
like to email me off list with your snail mail address, i'll be happy to send
(I have designed and redesigned for the past year and almost ready to build)
but before i do, will consult a lighting designer, and go for the skylights,
and extra vents, that's for sure.
Sarah House on wed 11 apr 01
Consider putting electrical outlets in the ceiling. In a 30X30 room you
will likely want some of your work tables etc out in the middle. I have a
drop cord run across, but that's a pain sometimes.
po box 84
Little Switzerland, NC
Juliet Johnston on wed 11 apr 01
Chris, Where the water line comes in for a sink put a
wall facuet too and you can put your hose on it
instead of on the facuet at your sink. good luck, Juliet
Penny Hosler on wed 11 apr 01
< I have recently decided to build a new studio, from the ground up. My old
aspects of thought of when ....................................
1- If you think you need one bookshelf, put up 3. Minimum. Think of all
those back issues of PMI and CM.
2- A separate cupboard hung on the wall, with a door(to keep at least some
of the dust out) and an elec outlet, for your CD player&CD's. In fact, hang
as much stuff on the walls as you can and keep it off your work tables.
Pegboard is good.
3- I have a septic tank, so my clay sink has a drain running outside & under
the driveway to a largish depression/aka hole in the ground that will become
a pond. Instant pond liner. Clay only-no glaze or haz stuff. ps: Don't
tell the building inspectors--they have no vision and can get cranky.
4- Way more elec outlets than you'll think you'll need. Dremel, heat gun,
coffee pot, mini frig, spray booth, radio, etc etc. And don't forget a
5- Full spectrum flourescent lighting ("sunshine" bulbs) so your colors are
6- More rolling carts than you can afford. Everything including bags of
plaster and buckets of glaze should be on rolling carts. Easier to clean
under & saves your back. 3/4" plywood w/casters works just peachy.
7- If you have the option/$$ for radiant heat under your concrete floor,
it's a wonderful thing. And no fans to blow dust when you're glazing.
8- Hot water. It may delay arthritis for several years.
9- As much natural light and sun as you can get. I tend to be a hermit, but
living in a cave can bring on creeping, insidious depression and your work
10- Always do everything Vince tells you to do.
Penny in WA (Older & smarter, but I only have #3-5-7-8-10. Rats.)
Nikki Simmons on wed 11 apr 01
I am in the process of planning my new studio also. Maybe we can compare
notes. If you haven't checked the archives, I found tons of useful and
Here is what I have got so far:
My goals are to be energy, water, ventilation, and dust conscious. I have
severe allergies and a young child. I want to make at least part of the
studio somewhere she can go also. When I make throw or trim (the only time
I let her come with me) she sits next to me at her banding wheel. This is
also a do-it-yourself project, so we wanted to keep things uncomplicated.
Size will be 30x30, maybe 30x40, attached to our house but not sharing
ventilation. The floor will have solar heated radiant water heat, and I am
exploring various cooling options. The concrete floor will extend up the
wall about one foot to make hosing off the sealed and painted floor easier
(with painted design, we have done this in our house, house is conservative
designs, studio will be a little more wild) . Floor will not slope because I
already have too much equipment on wheels that do not lock. (I am putting
everything on wheels) so I will be wet vacuuming. We are thinking about
using white tempered masonite (smooth washable surface) for the walls. We
can do that without special equipment, neither of us like doing drywall.
The building will be maximized for passive solar heating and cooling. No
windows on the north side, and on the south enough windows for winter heat
and a decent overhang to help against summer heat. (There are a lot of
calculations to determining window size and length of overhang, we can't
calculate that until we finalize the building size and shape.)
There will be some skylights to help promote day lighting, we are still
discussing other lighting. I plan to have task lighting attached to my
various work stations.
If you haven't read Monona Rossol's book on Keeping Claywork Safe and Legal,
I would recommend getting it ASAP. She has extensive information on
everything you might want to know, including ventilation. More important
than I realized, so we are putting a lot of thought into how I will
ventilate the clay mixing, glaze mixing, and possible future spray booth, as
well as the kiln. We are most likely going to put these in a different room
than the wet clay usage area (where my wheel is). My main concern is that
these areas will probably ventilate/migrate into the outside play area, we
don't have that figured out yet.
Building will have its own electrical box with meter, so I can keep it
separate from the house finances. Kiln room will have special wiring and
alarms in case of kiln over firing. (For details, I got that from Electric
Kiln Handbook, Ralph Ritchie.) Electrical outlets (all protected GFI with
surge protection) will be about 3 feet off the floor and at various places
in the ceiling.
I have 3 buckets to wash tools and hands in. The first bucket getting all
the clay, and rinsing in the other two buckets (I should mention that the
third bucket is always clear). This makes it so that I do not need a sink
trap, my sink is used only for soap hand washing after utilizing the rinse
buckets. The floor might have a drain, but not so I can hose into it. As I
mentioned, I will be wet vacuuming. If the floor ends up with a drain, we
will need to put a clay trap in just in case my little helper goes a little
Not sure if I can describe this but I will have a water hose coming out of
the ceiling that can rotate and reach all parts of the room (like at the car
wash). I hate having the hose laying on the floor, I ALWAYS trip on it.
Outside I will have a solar shower, for keeping daughter's entire sandbox
from migrating into our house and in case I ever drop another bag of clay
again. There will be an area to leave house shoes and put on studio shoes.
An area to sit or lay down comfortably, when I need a break. The one thing
that will be permanent is a shelf going around the perimeter of the room.
It will hold my ceramic and art collection, something inspiring to look at.
I will also be wired for sound. Which reminds me, we are trying to figure
out how to get the doorbell dinger in the studio also. We also are putting
in phone, TV, and computer hookups galore. If we ever sell this house, the
studio will make a great living space, so we are trying to keep that in mind
in our design.
Doors will be double wide to accommodate moving equipment. The clay mixing
room will have a garage door to make unloading easier.
Daughter is awake, so if I remember anything else I will let you know.
Olivia T. Cavy on wed 11 apr 01
Below are several things I did that have worked out well. I doubt they
were original ideas. Like you, I asked the group and adapted quite a few
It has worked well for me to have floor drains in a waterproof floor
(like cement), that lead somewhere besides your sewer or septic system.
This makes it easy to wet down/wash your floor without concern about what
goes "down the drain".
We put a several inch high lip in cement as part of the cement floor,
which acts as a lower baseboard, again for when I wet down the floor to
remove clay. I don't have to worry about water soaking my baseboard.
Also, the lower part of my walls is made from a more water resistent
material than ordinary plasterboard.
Also consider raising the height of your wall electrical outlets if you
are planning to wet down your floor, so you don't have to think about
getting water in your outlets. I also put outlets in my ceiling, above my
worktable, although I have yet to use them.
I'm sure others have also told you to install far more electrical outlets
than you think you're going to want, to be sure you have enough in just
the right places.
You'll want to work out your floor plan before building, but sometimes
the final floor plan differs from what you think you'll want. The
floor plan should include placement of EVERYTHING, not just equipment. I
asked many people to review my floor plan, and although I didn't
incorporate all their comments, I found all the comments helpful.
Steve Branfman has written a book The Professional Potter that also
discusses studio layout. I would recommend that this is worthwhile to
Bonnie D. Hellman, Pittsburgh, PA
PA work email: email@example.com
PA home email: firstname.lastname@example.org (that's the number 10 in the middle of
On Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:07:24 -0400 Sarah House
> Consider putting electrical outlets in the ceiling. In a 30X30 room
> will likely want some of your work tables etc out in the middle. I
> have a
> drop cord run across, but that's a pain sometimes.
> Sarah House
> po box 84
> Little Switzerland, NC
> Send postings to email@example.com
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
Jennifer F Boyer on wed 11 apr 01
The best thing about my new studio is the wide front door and
loading dock. My clay supplier, Sheffield has a boom truck for
unloading pallets of clay. The driver wheels my ton of clay
right into the studio and into the corner next to my wedging
table....heaven after 25 years of getting clay into the studio a
handtruck load at a time. If anyone wants a copy of my studio
plans, just ask. I did the design myself using a lot of ideas
from clayart. The studio is a year old and runs like a top.
30/32 plus gas kiln shed, for a production thrower.
Jennifer Boyer mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org
Thistle Hill Pottery
95 Powder Horn Glen Rd
Montpelier, VT 05602 USA
Never pass on an email warning without checking out this site
for web hoaxes and junk:
Anita M. Swan on wed 11 apr 01
I also have a concrete floor with a drain in the middle - just hose it off and I
have a squeegee thing on a long handle (kind of like a push broom) to finish the
Penny Hosler wrote:
> < I have recently decided to build a new studio, from the ground up. My old
> > aspects of > thought of when > ....................................
> Some details:
> 1- If you think you need one bookshelf, put up 3. Minimum. Think of all
> those back issues of PMI and CM.
> 2- A separate cupboard hung on the wall, with a door(to keep at least some
> of the dust out) and an elec outlet, for your CD player&CD's. In fact, hang
> as much stuff on the walls as you can and keep it off your work tables.
> Pegboard is good.
> 3- I have a septic tank, so my clay sink has a drain running outside & under
> the driveway to a largish depression/aka hole in the ground that will become
> a pond. Instant pond liner. Clay only-no glaze or haz stuff. ps: Don't
> tell the building inspectors--they have no vision and can get cranky.
> 4- Way more elec outlets than you'll think you'll need. Dremel, heat gun,
> coffee pot, mini frig, spray booth, radio, etc etc. And don't forget a
> phone jack.
> 5- Full spectrum flourescent lighting ("sunshine" bulbs) so your colors are
> 6- More rolling carts than you can afford. Everything including bags of
> plaster and buckets of glaze should be on rolling carts. Easier to clean
> under & saves your back. 3/4" plywood w/casters works just peachy.
> 7- If you have the option/$$ for radiant heat under your concrete floor,
> it's a wonderful thing. And no fans to blow dust when you're glazing.
> 8- Hot water. It may delay arthritis for several years.
> 9- As much natural light and sun as you can get. I tend to be a hermit, but
> living in a cave can bring on creeping, insidious depression and your work
> stops singing.
> 10- Always do everything Vince tells you to do.
> Penny in WA (Older & smarter, but I only have #3-5-7-8-10. Rats.)
> Send postings to email@example.com
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.
jWesley Allen on thu 12 apr 01
I read your email to clayart and am using it for even more inspiration to
open my own studio. I'm thinking about leasing a space starting in July and
your offer of sharing your studio plans would be greatly appreciated.
I also wanted you to know that I enjoyed checking out your web site. Your
work is beautiful.