Iris Jewett on sat 28 apr 01
Hello. I am building a special order for a client. The garden =3D
container has a base of 12"x24" and the sides
will be 18"high. I have no difficulty making the pot, but I am worried =3D
about firing it. In the past,
my rectangular pots have caved in a little on the sides in the second =3D
firing. The clay is stoneware
with lots of grog.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Iris, Bellevue, Washington
iris@wilburtonpottery.com
Dave Finkelnburg on sat 28 apr 01
Iris,
If the clay is warping on the sides during the firing, you need to
redesign the piece a bit to prevent that. Simply increasing the thicknes=
s
of the walls might be enough.
Putting a horizontal feature in the wall, say a wide rim, is probably=
a
better way. I have put a decorative rib about two-thirds of the way up t=
he
wall before, on the outside, to hold the wall straight. On the other han=
d,
you could put the rib on the inside and it wouldn't be visible, but it wo=
uld
still stiffen the wall.
Putting a section of slab across the inside from one long wall to the
other will also stiffen the walls.
I hope one of these ideas is helpful.
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho
Iris wrote:
"I am building a special order for a client. The garden container ha=
s a
base of 12"x24" and the sides will be 18"high. I have no difficulty maki=
ng
the pot, but I am worried about firing it. In the past,
my rectangular pots have caved in a little on the sides in the second
firing. The clay is stoneware
with lots of grog."
Lorraine Pierce on sat 28 apr 01
Hi Iris...I recently saw a planter pictured in construction that had two
removeable slotted bars (like flat slabs bridging the parallel sides). Th=
ese
were placed to hold the sides from caving towards each other during dryin=
g
and firing, but NOT permanently attached with slip. Think architecturely=
=2E
An inner support system. I've just found the book, Handbuilt Ceramics =
by
Kathy Triplett, p.91..............Lori Pierce in New Port Richey, Fl.
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