Gail Dapogny on sun 29 apr 01
Tonya, As Vince says, you gave it a formidable challenge. If I were you=
,
I would remove some of the really hard stuff. If you have any softer
("normal") clay, put it in. Also if you have any soft scrap clay that is
broken down, add that also. After that has gotten mixed, add the harder
stuff.
If you sometime get into a situation where you need softer clay and what'=
s
in your pugger is rather hard, put in some water, and sprinkle a light
coating of dry clay over the clay in there. That dry clay will help the
water to "catch", to become incorporated into the harder stuff.
Another thing: when you thoroughly clean the pugger, then add very wet
scrap before putting in dry stuff, you will find some of the liquid leaki=
ng
out the bottom. Not a problem: as soon as it all gets mixed together the
leakage will stop.
Try not to overload the barrel.
Also, be sure to mix thoroughly. We usually mix each batch three times,
about 8-minutes each, checking and correcting consistency at each break.
---Gail
>> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. I had the electri=
cian
>> hook it up and it was ready to go. I added some stiff clay, slicing i=
t in
>> 3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on and l=
et
>it
>> mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel without
>really
>> mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be abo=
ut
>> right for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and softer spot=
s.
>> Also, I cannot get it to pug.
>
>Tonya -
>You chose to use perhaps the one combination of materials which will not
>work at all in a clay mixer. There is nothing to force the stiff clay t=
o
>mix with the soft clay in most mixers, especially if the stiff clay is q=
uite
>stiff. If you had taken a quantity of normal plastic clay, and then add=
ed
>stiffer clay and softer clay in small amounts, it would probably have be=
en
>fine. As is, the impeller just moves the mass of soft clay around with=
the
>stiff lumps suspended. In order for a clay mixer to work properly, the c=
lay
>must reach a consistency where it sticks to the walls of the mixer. Onc=
e
>that happens, it really starts to mix efficiently, blending stiffer and
>softer areas. So the challenge is to get it to that point. The pugging
>feature of the Peter Pugger (and any other pugmill) also requires that t=
he
>clay stick to the barrel. Without sticking, there is nothing to cause i=
t to
>move down the barrel to the extrusion.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
>
>Vince Pitelka
>Appalachian Center for Crafts
>Tennessee Technological University
>1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
>Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
>615/597-5376
>Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
>615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
>http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
>
>________________________________________________________________________=
______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Gail Dapogny
1154 Olden Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-3005
(734) 665-9816
gdapogny@umich.edu
Reg Wearley on sun 29 apr 01
Hi Tonya,
In order for you Pugger to work right the
paddles inside the mixing area have to have
enough clay in there to continually 'scrape'
clay off the sides of the barrel and force
it to the 'left' where it then has to move
along the center shaft and to the 'right'.
This process is repeated so long as there
is enough clay in there to keep things
going. However, if you overload the thing
it will just do what you are describing so
you have to watch that also. You never said
which model you have and didn't mention how
much clay you loaded it with. By the way,
when the machine is to put the process is
reversed but the paddles still have to be
doing the scraping thing.If you care to
e-mail me off-line maybe I can guide you
through it. --Reg
--- Tjo62@AOL.COM wrote:
> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last
> week. I had the electrician
> hook it up and it was ready to go. I added
> some stiff clay, slicing it in
> 3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy
> clay. I turned it on and let it
> mix, but it seems to just roll over and over
> around the barrel without really
> mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at
> this point, should be about
> right for throwing, except that there are stiff
> chunks and softer spots.
> Also, I cannot get it to pug. Anybody else
> out there have one of these and
> can tell me what I did wrong. At this point I
> am very disillusioned. Tonya
> in Louisville, KY.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may
> be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________________________
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Tjo62@AOL.COM on sun 29 apr 01
I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. I had the electricia=
n
hook it up and it was ready to go. I added some stiff clay, slicing it i=
n
3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on and let =
it
mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel without re=
ally
mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be about
right for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and softer spots.
Also, I cannot get it to pug. Anybody else out there have one of these=
and
can tell me what I did wrong. At this point I am very disillusioned. To=
nya
in Louisville, KY.
Michael C Hill on sun 29 apr 01
When mixing hard clay with soft clay you have to fill the pugger to
create friction so the blades can start mixing. Once you get it full it
will become a great tool.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tjo62@AOL.COM
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2001 8:11 am
Subject: peter pugger question
> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. I had the
> electricianhook it up and it was ready to go. I added some stiff
> clay, slicing it in
> 3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on
> and let it
> mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel
> without really
> mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be
> aboutright for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and
> softer spots.
> Also, I cannot get it to pug. Anybody else out there have one
> of these and
> can tell me what I did wrong. At this point I am very
> disillusioned. Tonya
> in Louisville, KY.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Bruce Girrell on sun 29 apr 01
Tonya wrote:
> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. ... I turned it on
> and let it mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barr=
el
> without really mixing.
My experience with the machine is that the batch size that the Peter Pugg=
er
folks tell you is too small. The smaller the batch, the more likely that
you'll get a case of the "spinnies" (lack of mixing).
If you add water to already moist clay it tends to create a slurry betwee=
n
the clay on the mixing paddles and the clay on the wall of the mixing
chamber. You can run the machine just about forever with no mixing once t=
his
has happened. I keep a 1 1/2" dowel handy and use it to punch holes into =
the
clay when I add water to moist clay and I also use it to redistribute cla=
y
should an attack of the spinnies occur. I use the stick to push clay to t=
he
left because the machine is trying to move clay to the right when mixing.
Sometimes I have to do this several times before I can re-establish mixin=
g
action.
You can tell immediately how well the clay is mixing by turning the machi=
ne
off. If the machine takes 2-3 seconds to stop, then you have the spinnies
and no mixing is occurring. If the machine stops instantly then it is
mixing, but the clay is way too dry. If it takes the machine 1/4-1/2 seco=
nd
to stop, then the clay is the right consistency and you are getting good
mixing. Listen to your machine.
Another fix for the spinnies is to add dry clay. Add some trimming shavin=
gs
or just some dry clay from a bag. Add a little dry clay, close the hopper
lid, run the machine for a short time, shut it off, open the hopper, add =
a
little more dry. Pretty soon when you shut off the machine you will hear =
it
shut down in a fraction of a second instead of taking seconds. At that
point, turn it back on and let it mix. Check it after about five minutes =
to
be sure that you're still mixing. If not, redistribute the clay with a
strong stick and start the machine up again.
One note on the stick: Watch out that you don't splinter the stick on the
mixing paddles or you'll end up with hunks of wood in your clay which I
guarantee will end up in the worst possible place when you are throwing a
pot.
Your Peter Pugger should have come with an aluminum cover for the vacuum
port. If it has a plexiglas cover, write to Peter Pugger and ask for the
aluminum one. They should provide it for free. The plexiglas covers warpe=
d
and it was difficult to achieve a good vacuum seal after a while.
When you finally get your clay mixing properly, mix it so that is just a
little on the soft side. The pugged clay will stiffen somewhat after
pugging, particularly if you started off with all dry clay.
The machine will refuse to pug if the clay is not mixing properly. It wil=
l
also refuse to pug if the clay is either too hard or too soft. In either
case, the machine can't get the clay in the mixing chamber to push the cl=
ay
that is in the nozzle out of the way, though this is more of a problem wi=
th
overly soft clay.
I've been planning on writing a "Field Notes on the Care and Feeding of t=
he
Peter Pugger VPM-30" document for some time. I've taken disassembly and
reassembly photos and notes, but I just haven't put it all together yet.
Good luck,
Bruce "all mixed up" Girrell
Mark Terry on sun 29 apr 01
CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG writes:
> I added some stiff clay, slicing it in
>3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on and let
>it
>mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel without
>really
>mixing.
(1)
>It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be about
>right for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and softer spots.
(2)
>
>Also, I cannot get it to pug.
(3)
> Anybody else out there have one of these and
>can tell me what I did wrong. At this point I am very disillusioned.
Take heart. Your pugger is a little workhorse. Some of its little quirk=
s
frustrating when you don't have a coach handy to explain them, but most o=
f
them begin to make sense after awhile. I run a college ceramics program
and my students use Peter to recycle literally tons of clay each year.
1. The mixing function doesn't work well when it's too wet or slippy on
the outside of the mixing chamber. This is resolved with more dry clay.
Essentially, the clay sticks to the paddles and slides on the slip
lubricating the outside. It needs more friction to begin to mix. It can
also do this when there isn't enough volume in the barrel to really fill
up the mixing chamber.
2. To reduce the likelihood of inconsistent spots, reverse the direction
of the mixer every now and then. If you leave it in the "pug" direction
for more than 10 or 20 seconds, you'll begin ejecting clay, but if you
keep it short enough, the reversing really helps. I'd also consider
extending your mixing time. Officially, you're supposed to be able to
spend as few as 5 minutes mixing per batch (if you want to produce clay a=
s
fast as factory specs suggest) but realistically, I like to devote
anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes/batch. It's not as efficient, but the
results are a lot better. My students have evolved a system that assumes
they do a chore between each reverse - i.e. start the mixer then go wedge
up enough clay for a few bowls; reverse direction and wait a few seconds;
go back to mixing and throw first bowl; go back, reverse direction, wait =
a
moment, then return to mixing and throw another bowl. Then it should be
about ready to pug out.
3. The pugging action won't work unless you have enough clay in the
mixer. That's the only thing I've found that prevents ejection, but it
makes logical sense that if your clay is too wet around the outside to
mix, it'll also be too wet for the paddles working in reverse direction t=
o
pug it out.
4. The most frustrating aspect of Peter we've found is the "vacuum"
function. Here is where he is most persnickety. In order to vacuum pug,
a) there has to be a full load of clay in the mixer, b) you have to have
really good seals around the hopper entrance (hard to do some days) and
the vacuum chamber (clear plexi-plate). We've taken to using heavy-duty
outboard marine grease smeared around the contact point between the
plexi-plate and the throat to the vacuum chamber. This has reduced
no-vacuum days dramatically. We've also had to replace the rubber gasket
around the hopper entrance a couple of times as they tend to get hard and
don't seal well. A mechanic friend suggest soaking that in warm soapy
water for 15 minutes on days you plan to do a lot of pugging, both to
extend its life and to soften it up for a good seal.
Overall, we like Peter. Once we figured out his quirks, he's been a
pretty dependable and VERY cost-effective addition to our studio.
Blessings!
Mark Terry
Assistant Professor of Art
George Fox University
mterry@georgefox.edu
Tommy Humphries on sun 29 apr 01
sounds like the barrel of the mixer is too wet, add some real sticky clay=
or
some dry powder to the mix. The mixer relies on friction on the surface o=
f
the barrel to keep the clay from spinning you need the clay to stick to i=
t .
Tommy
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 8:11 AM
Subject: peter pugger question
> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. I had the electric=
ian
> hook it up and it was ready to go. I added some stiff clay, slicing it=
in
> 3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on and le=
t
it
> mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel without
really
> mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be abou=
t
> right for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and softer spots=
=2E
> Also, I cannot get it to pug. Anybody else out there have one of the=
se
and
> can tell me what I did wrong. At this point I am very disillusioned.
Tonya
> in Louisville, KY.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
vince pitelka on sun 29 apr 01
> I just had my new peter pugger delivered last week. I had the electric=
ian
> hook it up and it was ready to go. I added some stiff clay, slicing it=
in
> 3/4 inch thick slices and some soft smushy clay. I turned it on and le=
t
it
> mix, but it seems to just roll over and over around the barrel without
really
> mixing. It is not too stiff or too mushy at this point, should be abou=
t
> right for throwing, except that there are stiff chunks and softer spots=
=2E
> Also, I cannot get it to pug.
Tonya -
You chose to use perhaps the one combination of materials which will not
work at all in a clay mixer. There is nothing to force the stiff clay to
mix with the soft clay in most mixers, especially if the stiff clay is qu=
ite
stiff. If you had taken a quantity of normal plastic clay, and then adde=
d
stiffer clay and softer clay in small amounts, it would probably have bee=
n
fine. As is, the impeller just moves the mass of soft clay around with =
the
stiff lumps suspended. In order for a clay mixer to work properly, the cl=
ay
must reach a consistency where it sticks to the walls of the mixer. Once
that happens, it really starts to mix efficiently, blending stiffer and
softer areas. So the challenge is to get it to that point. The pugging
feature of the Peter Pugger (and any other pugmill) also requires that th=
e
clay stick to the barrel. Without sticking, there is nothing to cause it=
to
move down the barrel to the extrusion.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Cindy Strnad on sun 29 apr 01
Hello, Tonya.
You'll get the hang of the Peter Pugger fairly quickly. The problem you'r=
e
having is a result of the outer surface of your clay (the part in contact
with the pugmill) being too slick. Here are two or three things you can t=
ry.
First, just let the pugmill sit open for a couple of days to allow the ou=
ter
surface to dry out a bit. Give it a spin now and then to expose a new
surface to the air. I wouldn't do this because I'm way too impatient, but
I'm sure it would work if I did.
Second, you can add some dry powdered clay. Just sprinkle it in on the to=
p,
spin the pugmill, sprinkle some more in, etc., until the clay catches and
starts to mix properly (you'll know from the way it looks when you open t=
he
mill to check on it.) Any kind of clay will do, so long as it won't
contaminate the color of your mixing clay. If you're doing pure and white=
,
you'll want to be picky, but otherwise it doesn't really matter.
Third (my usual solution), just keep stuffing in more clay until it has n=
o
choice but to catch. Slice a bit off the top of your bagged clay, put it =
in
the hopper, force the lid closed, give it a spin, repeat. The instruction=
s
say that the Peter Pugger should hold around 30 lbs of clay, but I find i=
t
works better for me with around 40 or 45 lbs.
Do check in the overflow chamber (to the right--with the little hand hole=
)
and clear out any clay that gets "extruded" into that area by virtue of t=
he
pugmill being over-full. You don't have to be Suzy Homemaker or anything.
Just clean it out as best you can with one hand and no sponge necessary. =
If
you put too much liquid in the mixing chamber, this is where it will end =
up,
and it will run all over the floor. So beware of that.
Once you get a feel for it, you'll have no problems. I almost never have
this spinning thing happen now, but it happened nearly every time at firs=
t.
I just watch how much sloshy clay I'm adding at one time. You can add it =
a
little at a time, but all at once will cause you troubles.
Best wishes,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
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