search  current discussion  categories  glazes - cone 4-7 

^6 reduction

updated wed 26 oct 11

 

will edwards on thu 3 may 01


Hello,

I have an avid interest in ^6 Reduction firing. I also would love some ur=
=3D
l's
should anyone have any to share of their work with this method.

It is good to see all of you or read the replies from you all once more. =
=3D

Keep up the great work! They are many great writers and people on our for=
=3D
um
that have given allot of themselves to bettering our understanding on pot=
=3D
tery
and glazes. Also to those who have requested the sample tiles... The kiln=
=3D
is
cooling as I write this on the bisque test tiles. Next week is finish up =
=3D
time
and send out. My side-kick has a real job and so I have been the chief, c=
=3D
ook
and bottle washer these last few days.

William Edwards
Alchemy 101



____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
3D=3D
1

lela martens on sat 5 may 01


Hi again. Good idea, if anyone has a site could it be posted on the list?=
In
these early hours of the morning I am also thinking, cone 6 red. with sin=
gle
firing? Will look for the book Janet posted. From Lela where the tulips a=
re
blooming, the wind has calmed, the sky is a colour I would love on a pot=
,
and the birds outside my bedroom window are very busy at 5 in the morning=
=2E


>From: will edwards
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: ^6 Reduction
>Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:33:50 CDT
>
>Hello,
>
>I have an avid interest in ^6 Reduction firing. I also would love some
>url's
>should anyone have any to share of their work with this method.
>
>It is good to see all of you or read the replies from you all once more.
>
>Keep up the great work! They are many great writers and people on our fo=
rum
>that have given allot of themselves to bettering our understanding on
>pottery
>and glazes. Also to those who have requested the sample tiles... The kil=
n
>is
>cooling as I write this on the bisque test tiles. Next week is finish up
>time
>and send out. My side-kick has a real job and so I have been the chief,
>cook
>and bottle washer these last few days.
>
>William Edwards
>Alchemy 101
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=3D=
1
>
>________________________________________________________________________=
______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

Eric Suchman on tue 5 nov 02


I hear alot about ^6 ox but how many out there are doing ^6 reduction? Soda?
Salt? Can 'Mastering ^6 Glazes' be adapted to reduction? Curious and
trying to find a new direction.
Eric in Oceanside
"Clay is the Way"

Kathy on wed 6 nov 02


Hi,
I'm not currently doing ^6 Reduction, but I know that
it changes the behavior of certain glazes and clays.
^6 glazes with zinc as a major flux didn't seem to
work well for me in Reduction. Hamer and Hamer say,
"Above 1085 C-1985 F (zinc) is an active flux
providing it is not reduced by the kiln atmosphere.
Even slight reduction is sufficient to extract the
oxygen which results in loss of the zinc also. ...Any
reduction therefore at 950 C or above, having taken
away the oxygen, leaves a boiling metal. The boiling
metal voltizes and is lost."
Also, glazes and clays with high iron contents
sometimes behave quite differently in reduction.
Forgive me if you know all this. Certain mid-fired
clays with a very high iron content are meant for
oxidation only. Red iron oxide acts a bit like a
refractory; while the reduced form, black iron oxide
is a strong flux. When and where and how all this
happens depends on lots of variables: the iron you
start with, points of reduction and ox., strength of
reduction, chemistry of the glass, cooling cycles,
etc. So Iron is not so boring after all.
But this is all good news. If there were no
difference between cone 6 ox. and reduction, why
bother? I'd love to hear how it turns out for you.
Yours,
Kathy

Joyce Burkholder on wed 6 nov 02


Hi Eric
I have firing ^6 reduction and soda vapour glazing for about 5 yrs now. I
think the results are great and other potters that see my work just assume
it is ^10. With about 40 firings in my soda kiln the deterioration is very
minimal so I believe that at ^6 the kiln and shelves etc. will last much
longer, not to mention the fuel savings.
Dan Hill in beautiful but cold eastern Ontario, Canada
----- Original Message -----

Ron Roy on fri 8 nov 02


Hi Eric,

I would not be surprised if some of the glazes in our book will work well
in reduction - I don't think the glazes will zinc oxide in them will work
and you will have to be careful with iron bearing glazes - the iron will
flux more in reduction - be very careful with the Waterfall Brown - I would
think it is going to run gangbusters.

I would be interested in trying to adapt some of them - especially those
with iron - to work in reduction - so if you want to do some testing - I'm
your man.

RR

>I hear alot about ^6 ox but how many out there are doing ^6 reduction? Soda?
>Salt? Can 'Mastering ^6 Glazes' be adapted to reduction? Curious and
>trying to find a new direction.
> Eric in Oceanside
> "Clay is the Way"

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

Deborah Thuman on tue 25 oct 11


When I fire ^6 reduction, here's what I do.

Outer ring 1/4 open 1 hour
Outer ring 1/2 open 1 hour
Outer ring full open 1 hour
Then I start on the inner ring - same sequence.
When I have red heat in the kiln (bricks glowing hot red), I open up
the gas to full on the inner ring.


Meanwhile, I'm watching the cones. When ^08 goes down, reduction
begins. I'm looking for a light flame coming out the peep holes.

I keep the kiln in reduction until ^01 goes down.

Then I open the damper and keep firing until ^5 down, ^6 starting to
move.

Then I shut off the inner ring, turn the outer ring to 1/4 open and
let the kiln continue for 30 minutes - damper still wide open. 45
minutes is too long (found out the hard way)

Then I shut off the gas, plug the peeps and close the damper and let
the kiln cool naturally.

I've had really good results using this method.

I do NOT candle the kiln; but... I'm in southern New Mexico where 30%
humidity is wet and 40 degrees is cold. I used to candle the kiln
overnight, but I have yet to see any real difference with not
candling. It takes me maybe 20-30 minutes longer to fire without
candling. I use an Olsen kiln - fully manual and probably about 20
years old. When I can fire the kiln depends on my work schedule and
who is using what kiln. I tend to glaze and load the kiln one day and
fire the next day. The kiln door is closed, but not latched over
night. There's probably an inch gap.

Liz, I think you kept the kiln in reduction too long. I've tried
firing all the way up in reduction and came up with... um... well...
crap. Personally, I hated the results. Someone else might like the
results. We each do what works best for us.

I hope your next ^6 reduction firing goes well. There are some glazes
that are not all that wonderful in oxidation but are magical in
reduction.

Deb Thuman
http://debthumansblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=3D5888059
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Deb-Thumans-Art-Page/167529715986