Johnson, Valerie W. on wed 16 may 01
Hi everyone,
I'm new to the list, but I've been lurking about for a few days.
I'm building a fastfire woodburning kiln (which may be converted to gas when
I get too frustrated with wood), substantially in line with the plans in the
Olsen book. I have a couple of questions:
1. To mortar or not to mortar the bricks? Benefits/problems with
mortaring?. I expect to never need to disassemble the kiln. If I mortar,
the plans don't call for expansion joints, although they discuss adding a
fraction of an inch at the corner joints. How exactly do you do that
without throwing the angles of the walls off?
2. the plans don't call for a damper in the chimney; is one needed?
3. I have been given some 9x18x3" hard firebrick slabs from a refractory
supplier: would there be any problem with using these as the kiln floor?
4. can you /would you bisque porcelain in this kiln? if so, what would be
the schedule?
5. if I used hard firebrick inside the kiln and ifb outside the kiln (for
9" walls), would i extend the firing time past "fastfire" by a huge amount?
What about vice-versa; ifb inside and hard firebrick outside--would the
benefit be a slower cooldown?
thanks to anyone who has some advice.
****************************************************************************
NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission may constitute an
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intended for transmission to, or receipt by, any unauthorized persons.
If you have received this electronic mail transmission in error, please
delete it from your system without copying it, and notify the sender by
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James Mcdonough on wed 16 may 01
We have a Phoenix fast fire with stacked brick and after five years and 35
firings some of the top of the arch is in need of a rebuild. If I were
doing it again I would use mortar. We have dampers that have been useful
but find that closing the stoking arch with brick so that the stoking port
is reduced is also helpful. Free brick of any size is always welcome. a
extra course of brick to design a ceramic grate will save burning lots of
iron grates. This kiln is indeed fast fire to cone 10 in 10 to 12 hours if
wood is dry. Make plans for a place to dry the wood nearby. Our firing
time decreased once we stockpiled a years supply of wood. Bisque
temperatures are achieved almost too quickly. Plan a slow weenie roast the
night before you fire. Be sure that the hard brick is in the areas that are
in contact spots as the soft brick wears rapidly. Above the level of the
firebox around the body of the kiln it is nice to have the insulation.
Jim McDonough in cool green Asheville NC, where we could use a good soaking
rain.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnson, Valerie W."
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 12:58 PM
Subject: fastfire wood kiln
> Hi everyone,
> I'm new to the list, but I've been lurking about for a few days.
> I'm building a fastfire woodburning kiln (which may be converted to gas
when
> I get too frustrated with wood), substantially in line with the plans in
the
> Olsen book. I have a couple of questions:
>
> 1. To mortar or not to mortar the bricks? Benefits/problems with
> mortaring?. I expect to never need to disassemble the kiln. If I
mortar,
> the plans don't call for expansion joints, although they discuss adding a
> fraction of an inch at the corner joints. How exactly do you do that
> without throwing the angles of the walls off?
>
> 2. the plans don't call for a damper in the chimney; is one needed?
>
> 3. I have been given some 9x18x3" hard firebrick slabs from a refractory
> supplier: would there be any problem with using these as the kiln floor?
>
> 4. can you /would you bisque porcelain in this kiln? if so, what would
be
> the schedule?
>
> 5. if I used hard firebrick inside the kiln and ifb outside the kiln (for
> 9" walls), would i extend the firing time past "fastfire" by a huge
amount?
> What about vice-versa; ifb inside and hard firebrick outside--would the
> benefit be a slower cooldown?
>
> thanks to anyone who has some advice.
>
>
>
****************************************************************************
>
> NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission may constitute an
> attorney-client communication that is privileged at law. It is not
> intended for transmission to, or receipt by, any unauthorized persons.
> If you have received this electronic mail transmission in error, please
> delete it from your system without copying it, and notify the sender by
> reply e-mail, so that our address record can be corrected.
>
>
****************************************************************************
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Anthony Allison on wed 16 may 01
Dear Valerie,
I built a fast fire kiln. I made it a little larger than the one in the
book. Problem with ifb on ceiling is after a while with ash buildup on
walls the glassy coating sloughs off and lands on and in your pots. But u
need good insulation, I used cement blocks on outside with a 6 inch layer of
sand in between . I dont recommend using refractory slabs for the floor
because after a short time they will bend and crack. The best solutuion is
two arches over the fireboxes. Use hard brick for the floor. I found a
damper to be invaluable as you go through different stages in the fire. I
also recommend an oil drip system so you will have enough btus at the end of
a firing to reach temp if your wood isnt Perfectly dry.
The kiln is a kewl design otherwise and will give you some great results.
Warmest Regards,
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Valerie W.
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 3:18 PM
Subject: fastfire wood kiln
>Hi everyone,
>I'm new to the list, but I've been lurking about for a few days.
>I'm building a fastfire woodburning kiln (which may be converted to gas
when
>I get too frustrated with wood), substantially in line with the plans in
the
>Olsen book. I have a couple of questions:
>
Lee Love on thu 17 may 01
Valerie,
Friends of mine here in Mashiko have built their own version of a Fastfire that is a little easier for one person to fire.
Both fire boxes open to the front and are stoked from the front instead of to diagonal sides like the Olsen. The opening from
the fireboxes into the main chamber are at the back of the kiln on each side and the flue has an opening running down the center of
the kiln, between the fireboxes. I'm thinking about building this kiln in the future. If you'd like Euan Craig's address
(he designed this kiln) send me private email and I will forward it to you.
--
Lee Love
Mashiko JAPAN Ikiru@kami.com
Interested in Folkcraft? Signup:
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MOLINA, RAFAEL on thu 17 may 01
Valerie and others on the List:
I don't understand why people persist in building this BOONDOGGLE. There
are any number of designs that are better. The catenary arch cross-draft is
one that comes to mind.
I fired an Olsen fast fire when I was a student at a community college. I
have also had the misfortune of building this design on two occasions. An
acquaintance of mine who is very knowledgeable and experienced about
wood-firing derisively refers to the kiln as a Freddy Fast F#%&
If you read Olsen's book or his article in Studio Potter I don't believe
even he intended for it to be a viable production kiln. I think it was more
of a tool to educate about the process of firing with wood. It was also the
70's and alternative sources of fuel were the rage.
I have only seen one Olsen fast fire that I thought produced beautiful pots
and it's the one at LSU in Baton Rouge. It is much larger in scale than the
plans call for and is made with hard firebrick. A former student of mine
and now propreitor of Southern Pottery Equipment and Supplies/Alligator
Clay, Bill Newman, showed me around when he was taking classes there in the
mid-nineties. In fact, I have a few thrown porcelain tumblers of his from
that kiln. The shino glaze and natural ash combined to create a beautiful
surface on these pieces.
My opinion is biased of course. I believe if you are going go through the
intensive labor of firing with wood that the work ought to record the
process through ash accumulation and flashing.
If a potter prefers wood for fuel as an alternative to the cost of natural
gas or propane, but doesn't care for the effects of the wood combustion then
they should just put all of their work in saggers to protect them.
That's my HCO for the day.
Ciao,
Rafael
In Arlington where I can't decide whether to go the Ballpark to watch the
Rangers or go to Lone Star Park and watch the ponies run. They are each
about 15 minutes from campus.
Rafael Molina, MFA
Assistant Professor of Art
Department of Music, Art, and Dance
Tarrant County College-Southeast Campus
2100 Southeast Parkway
Arlington, TX 76018-3144
(817) 515-3711
(817) 515-3189 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Valerie W. [mailto:vjohnson@BDBC.COM]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:58 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: fastfire wood kiln
Hi everyone,
I'm new to the list, but I've been lurking about for a few days.
I'm building a fastfire woodburning kiln (which may be converted to gas when
I get too frustrated with wood), substantially in line with the plans in the
Olsen book. I have a couple of questions:
1. To mortar or not to mortar the bricks? Benefits/problems with
mortaring?. I expect to never need to disassemble the kiln. If I mortar,
the plans don't call for expansion joints, although they discuss adding a
fraction of an inch at the corner joints. How exactly do you do that
without throwing the angles of the walls off?
2. the plans don't call for a damper in the chimney; is one needed?
3. I have been given some 9x18x3" hard firebrick slabs from a refractory
supplier: would there be any problem with using these as the kiln floor?
4. can you /would you bisque porcelain in this kiln? if so, what would be
the schedule?
5. if I used hard firebrick inside the kiln and ifb outside the kiln (for
9" walls), would i extend the firing time past "fastfire" by a huge amount?
What about vice-versa; ifb inside and hard firebrick outside--would the
benefit be a slower cooldown?
thanks to anyone who has some advice.
****************************************************************************
NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission may constitute an
attorney-client communication that is privileged at law. It is not
intended for transmission to, or receipt by, any unauthorized persons.
If you have received this electronic mail transmission in error, please
delete it from your system without copying it, and notify the sender by
reply e-mail, so that our address record can be corrected.
****************************************************************************
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
David Todd on fri 22 aug 08
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
Phil Davenport on fri 22 aug 08
Try contacting Randy Brodnax in Dallas Texas--He used to hold workshops on
constructing fast fire wood kilns.
Phil
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of David Todd
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 5:23 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Fastfire wood kiln
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
Eva Gallagher on fri 22 aug 08
Hi David - whatever you do, find out how people like the fast fire kiln with
fireboxes on opposing sides. Don't know how old you are and especially if
you plan to fire by yourself, but I was told by several people (older ones)
that it is murder trying to stoke that type of fast fire kiln by yourself.
I built a train kiln with a bourry fire box - the bourry box is great - very
easy to fire by yourself. Hardly any smoke, less than a wood stove. Only
during loading (every 15 minutes or so) do I get a few feet of flame coming
out of my 15 foot chimney and that's only for a minute or so. The only
caveat is that you need to cut your wood to exact length so that it can fit
on the hobs in the bourry box. Not a problem here as I have to cut all my
wood anyway and my husband built a jig to cut it. I guess that you would use
a lot more bricks wiwth this type as you need to build the bourry box itself
rather than the firebox being under the kiln. I started collected used
bricks for several years. Old electric kilns are great for outer insualting
walls, under the floor etc. You can use the bricks after cutting them and
filling in the grooves with a homemade insulating castable.
Another two good books with lots of plans are:
Laid back Woodfiring by Steve Harrison - lots of details on building a
variety of bourry box kilns and detailed instructions on how to fire them.
You can order it from the author in Australia.
Wood-fired Ceramics - by Coll Minogue and Robert Sanderson - short
interviews with many woodfirers and the kilns that they use. Lots of stuff
on the different types of wood fired kilns.
It's very exciting building a kiln,
Good luck.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
http://stephenhilljourneyworkshopjuly2008.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Todd"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 6:22 PM
Subject: Fastfire wood kiln
> I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't
> know
> anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
> of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
> and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
> have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
> yards.
> I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I
> also
> bought a relevant book by Troy.
> I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the
> cone
> 6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
> feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
> have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can
> get
> used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
> large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
> live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
> wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
> chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone
> area,
> or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
> building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
> insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open
> year
> round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do
> sell
> some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never
> justify
> the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
> but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
> plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
> can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing
> that
> might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
> I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
> comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
> David Todd
>
>
Tony Ferguson on fri 22 aug 08
David,
I would suggest you wood fire with different people with different kilns, take workshops, etc before you make any definite plans. You will learn much from working with others about your path and direction with wood kilns.
Tony Ferguson
David Todd wrote: I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
Take Care,
Tony Ferguson
...where the sky meets the lake...
http://www.tonyferguson.net
Paul Herman on fri 22 aug 08
David,
I just want to echo Tony Ferguson's advice below and say, find a wood
firer in your area and ask to attend one of their firings. Actually
being there and observing will give you more knowledge than we could
write here on the email. Don't jump right in there with both feet and
no experience. Realize that it takes a considerable amount of effort
on your part. It's a big commitment.
It sounds like you are out there in the boonies somewhere, and I
understand because I am too. You have to search out some people who
know wood fire. From your description of Chinook, I think you'll need
a kiln shed.
Best wishes,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/
On Aug 22, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Tony Ferguson wrote:
> David,
>
> I would suggest you wood fire with different people with different
> kilns, take workshops, etc before you make any definite plans. You
> will learn much from working with others about your path and
> direction with wood kilns.
>
> Tony Ferguson
Jeff Longtin on fri 22 aug 08
In a message dated 8/22/2008 5:47:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
otterraf@TELUSPLANET.NET writes:
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Jeff Longtin on fri 22 aug 08
Hey David,
I built a Fred Olson fast fire, with Craig Edwards, at the MN Renn Fest in
'87 and '88. (I was the muscle he was the brains.)
Sweetest little wood kiln I've ever fired. Had opposing fireboxes but it
wasn't bad.
Amazing how efficient it was to fire. By the end of the Festival the sucker
was usually up to temp. Throughout the day I'd feed the fireboxes and at
night Craig would come along to salt.
Thankfully the festival site was cleared out by the time we salted. Produced
a helluva cloud of chloride but also produced beautiful results.
Don't know the specifics, dimensions, foundation thickness, but can vouch
for effectiveness.
take care
Jeff Longtin
In a message dated 8/22/2008 5:47:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
otterraf@TELUSPLANET.NET writes:
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Lee Love on sat 23 aug 08
On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 12:23 PM, Jeff Longtin wrote:
> Hey David,
>
> I built a Fred Olson fast fire, with Craig Edwards, at the MN Renn Fest in
> '87 and '88. (I was the muscle he was the brains.)
>
Jeff,
Have you seen Craig's new anagama? I am going to participate
in his fall firing.
Craug is also thinking about a little kiln on the other side of the
stack. Last time we talked, he said he was thinking a two bourry box
catnery.
--
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis and Mashiko, Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Mary & Wes Handrow on sat 23 aug 08
I currently fire a double firebox wood fire kiln to cone 10. Your
foundation should be OK unless your area gets cold enough for frost heave to
be an issue. Also, remember hard bricks are 9 something pounds each and
even a short stack adds up to some heavy weight, so be sure the ground under
the kiln doesn't get soft when wet. That's one reason to put up some kind
of shelter, that and a wet kiln while it will give interesting color takes a
lot more wood just to dry it out. Don't make your kiln too small, under 30
cubic feet they can be bears to get to temp. simply because wood requires a
large area just to fully burn so you get the heat to the pots and not up the
stack, it's a lot of work for just a few pots if your kiln is too small.
The other thing to think about is are you looking for a lot of ash and
flash? If so the fast fire kiln is the wrong kiln, it's about getting a lot
of heat from less wood, and heat you can get from gas for a lot less effort.
My kiln has the fireboxes inside the kiln, I get a lot of ash and flash and
fluctuating temps, redux, neutral, oxidizing atmosphere and you only get to
make guesses about how some of the stuff will come out looking like but that
is why I fire with wood to begin with. As for the smoke issue, ask a whole
bunch of questions because if they choose to the smoke alone is reason
enough to shut down a kiln. The most important question you need to ask
yourself is just what kind of a look are you after, can it only be gotten
with wood and just how long and how much effort are you willing to put in to
get that "look". You have to get the wood, split it, store it (2 years to
get it dry enough to burn well), stoke it every 5 - 7 minutes or so for how
many hours ... Days? If can only get the look you are after by using wood
make sure you have some good friends to help with the firing or be ready for
heavy duty work. Having said all of that if you just love that wood fire
look, find someone in your area that fires with wood and ask if you can
watch or better yet participate in a firing, if possible more than just one
kind of kiln, and when you find one like, copy it. Best of luck!
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of David Todd
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 5:23 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Fastfire wood kiln
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
June on sat 23 aug 08
You might want to explore the Steve Harrison book "Laid Back Wood Firing". You can get it through Ian Currie's web site:
http://ian.currie.to/sh/Steve_Harrisons_books.html
He used to have a less expensive booklet by the same name that was available through "Pottery In Australia" (their book section). At the back of that book he has the plan for a single, bourry box, cross draft that can fire to cone 10 in about ten hours. If I were up to building another, smaller wood kiln, that's the plan I would use. You might want to check their web site to see if that is still available.
Bourry box kilns are a dream to fire, easy on the back, not as smoky as other wood kiln because of the high level of combustion in the firebox which makes the neighbors happy as well.
Regards,
June
http://www.shambhalapottery.com
http://shambhalapottery.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sodasaltfiring/
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Longtin
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 11:13:38 PM
Subject: Re: Fastfire wood kiln
In a message dated 8/22/2008 5:47:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
otterraf@TELUSPLANET.NET writes:
I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a development permit
and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I live I shouldn't
have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no neighbours for 400
yards.
I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire appeals to me. I also
bought a relevant book by Troy.
I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go along with the cone
6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a reasonable size in cubic
feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then will probably
have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36 times). I can get
used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by sorting through a
large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours drive away. I
live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack height and the
wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the leeward side
chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this chinook prone area,
or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks is it worth
building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend extra dollars on
insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out in the open year
round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put into it. I do sell
some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see I will never justify
the cost of going to much expense building this from what I will produce ,
but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning offers. There is
plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel is unlimited and
can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created from a firing that
might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and would appreciate any
comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
David Todd
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Taylor Hendrix on sat 23 aug 08
David,
If you're serious about firing a Fast Freddie, have a chat with David
Hendley (Old Farmhouse Pottery). He is a full-time potter who fires
his work in an enlarged FF. He has been using that kiln for quite
awhile too, and I have helped him fire it just a few times. He let me
help only because he's a nice guy not because he needed any help
firing this kiln. Even at the end of the firing, I saw no real
difficulty in stoking. I probably slowed David down a bit even. He
seems to think I could make one for my very first combustion kiln, so
what does that tell you?
Talk to Tony C about a train type kiln with a side loading bourry box.
I was able to help fire the two trains at the University in Flagstaff
and apart from a few headless chickens running about, the firings were
pretty laid back. I still remember BJ Clark chunking a 6 foot log into
the double wide train's bourry box. Holy crap, it eats forests.
Intense when the door opens but very laid back stoking cycle.
That Harrison book is a good book to look at. It convinced me to keep
that type of fire box in mind for my first wood kiln. I hope I am able
to build one before our sun runs out of it's nuclear fuel. Maybe not.
Taylor, in Rockport TX, where him and M have finally started framing
in the old garage doors. Front door for the new entrance is now in
place. Sweet.
On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 5:22 PM, David Todd wrote:
> I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired kiln. I don't know
> anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can give me some idea
> of how it behaves or some of the issues. ...
Lee Love on sat 23 aug 08
On 8/23/08, Eva Gallagher wrote:
> Hi David - whatever you do, find out how people like the fast fire kiln with
> fireboxes on opposing sides. Don't know how old you are and especially if
> you plan to fire by yourself, but I was told by several people (older
> ones)
> that it is murder trying to stoke that type of fast fire kiln by yourself.
David,
You might find my kiln interesting. It has fireboxes both on
the same side:
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
You'll find the diagrams and about 60 step by step photos.
It is an "old man's kiln." You can sit in a rocking chair,
with the woodpile on one side and the kiln on the other and never get
up while you are firing, except to check the cones. It even has a
passive damper plug in front inbetween the stoking chambers.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis/Mashiko, Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Paul Herman on sun 24 aug 08
Donald,
You are one confused guy. The real deal would burn wood, not propane.
Best wishes for more rational thinking,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/
On Aug 24, 2008, at 5:34 PM, Donald Burroughs wrote:
> David
> The kazegama is not only fast it's portable. Go to: http://www.kazegamas.com/
> Haven't actually tried this type of kiln, but it looks to be the
> real deal.
>
> Regards, Donald Burroughs
Donald Burroughs on sun 24 aug 08
David
The kazegama is not only fast it's portable. Go to: http://www.kazegamas.co=
m/
Haven't actually tried this type of kiln=2C but it looks to be the real dea=
l.
=20
Regards=2C Donald Burroughs
_________________________________________________________________
If you like crossword puzzles=2C then you'll love Flexicon=2C a game which =
combines four overlapping crossword puzzles into one!
http://g.msn.ca/ca55/208=
Lee Love on mon 25 aug 08
Greg, the McKnight resident that followed me at NCC has a 3 firebox
FF, two on one side with a third in the middle on the other. He no
longer fires it with he firebox opening open and does not use the
grates any longer. Instead, if I remember correctly, he has some
kind of channel system that gets air under the coals. He fires
longer now too and salts.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
jonathan byler on mon 25 aug 08
Lee, that's funny,
I was going to suggest looking at this kiln from Euan Craig, an
australian fellow, who also works in mashiko:
http://euancraig.blogspot.com/2007/11/new-kiln-in-nagano.html
it looks like a very solid design. and also looks like you mashiko
guys know a good thing when you see it. I am going to eventually
build one like that here, but I had planned to make some variations,
including arched fireboxes under the kiln, and locating the chimney
in front by the fireboxes partly in order to get more of a cross
draught effect in order to mimic better the look of ware fired in an
anagama type, while at the same time getting better efficieny. I
wanted to make it possible to run air passages between the fireboxes,
under the kiln floor so as to be able to preheat the air entering the
fireboxes. I also plan to install fire box doors, and to try and
build a secondary burn chamber right off the are chamber, where extra
combustion air can be added to clean up the emissions from the kiln,
while hopefully radiating heat back into the are chamber. My
additions and revisions are at the moment all totally unproven, and
just dreams at the moment. we are tied up with a bunch of other
projects right now, but the plans are mostly drawn up and ready to go...
David,
if you would reveal where you are located, you might better find
people within driving distance with whom you can commune in person.
it is amazing how many potters are hiding out right under your nose.
if we knew where you are, someone here might have a suggestion of
someone for you to meet. Also, as far as your kiln goes, it would
probably be good not to try to re invent the wheel, rather use a
proven design or a proven design with minor, sensible changes the
first time out. My best advice for something as intimate and
personal as a wood kiln, would be to choose based on the work that
comes out of the various kiln types and designs, and base yours on
that. you should be able to see on various blogs, like lee love's
and euan craigs, and others online what type of effects the various
kilns designs are capable of. Also if you look in some of the books,
you can get names of potters who are using the various kiln types and
look up their work to see how it might come out.
Also, if you are building a kiln shed to keep the wind and rain out,
you might be able to come up with a modular design which would allow
you to take it down and move it with the kiln, with a minimum of
disassembly.
best of luck with this,
jon
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Aug 22, 2008, at 8:34 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
Larry Kruzan on mon 25 aug 08
Hi Lee,
I like that firebox modification, it solves my biggest problem with the
fastfire design, but I'm curious about the bars you used for the grates.
What are they?
Thanks,
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lee Love
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:54 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Fastfire wood kiln
Greg, the McKnight resident that followed me at NCC has a 3 firebox
FF, two on one side with a third in the middle on the other. He no
longer fires it with he firebox opening open and does not use the
grates any longer. Instead, if I remember correctly, he has some
kind of channel system that gets air under the coals. He fires
longer now too and salts.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Luke Nealey on mon 25 aug 08
David,
I built a fast fire kiln wood kiln in the winter-spring of 2007. It is
pretty much the design found in Olsen's book, about a m^3 interior space.
It is hard brick outside of chamber with inner IFB and an IFB arch covered
with ceramic blanket. It gets to cone 12 on top in about 10 hrs burning
well-seasoned 2"x2" wood. I don't reduce real heavily, the only time it
really puts out major smoke is the last hour or two when you stoke. Even
then it does not smoke long. It sits on a 6" thick slab out in the great
outdoors of semi-rural Mississippi. I am 50, it has opposing fireboxes, I
fire it alone, pretty much stoking and fine splitting wood for ten hours
straight.
My 2 cents of advice as someone that pots for fun and built this
kiln because I was intrigued by the idea of burning wood to reach 2200+ F in
an insulated box is this: I think there are two paths, the first is the one
I followed, that is I bought a couple books, researched the clayart archives
(for sure see Mel and David H's comments on chimneys), poked around the web
and looked at kilns like Lee Love's, those on the Sidestoke site, the link
someone in the thread gave etc. then draw up a plan and build it. It won't
be perfect, like anything you do the first time you will stratch your head
and say"I wish I had thought of that" However, I derive a great amout of
pleasure from the fact that I did it by myself. Again, my circumstances in
clay are such that if I want to tear it down and build a better one this
winter I will, that will be the project I want to work on outside of what
feeds me.
The second path is to really do it right in terms of getting a kiln that
does what you want, lasts a long time, incorporates the best designs etc.
For this you need to spend time finding kilns and kiln operators that
you can really discuss it with( you have gotten a lot of good referrals on
this thread). I think I agree with many on this thread that a small gas
kiln may give you the results you want (the FF won't give alot of ash etc.)
in a lot more effecient (read bucking, splitting, stacking, fine splitting
of wood if you don't have a waste wood source available) and reproducable
manner.
Good luck.
Luke Nealey
Rankin Co. MS
Betsy Cox on mon 25 aug 08
Hi all ,
=20
I built a kiln like Euan"s . We put the fireboxes on =
opposing sides. Fires great and I do do it all by myself .
Love it .
Betsy Cox evp@comcast.net
Echo Valley Pottery =20
Glen Dale, WVa USA
Lee Love on mon 25 aug 08
On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 9:18 PM, Larry Kruzan wrote:
> Hi Lee,
> I like that firebox modification, it solves my biggest problem with the
> fastfire design, but I'm curious about the bars you used for the grates.
> What are they?
They are long kiln posts. But folks have also used grate bars,
which are double lengthed, half bricks, cut sc shelves and Euan just
built one in Wales that has circular kiln posts that are hollow and
can have a steel rod running inside them, incase they crack. All
these are more efficent than the original metal grates that have to be
pulled out or they burn up quick.
A friend was looking at my firebox the other day and thought he
could use regular bricks if he posted in the middle where two meet.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Steve Mills on mon 25 aug 08
That's the principle I work on; in all my kilns the primary air all comes in through the perforated floor of the firebox, getting pre-heat from the embers (which get burnt properly not left behind!), resulting in a much more economical firing, with zero ash left in the firebox afterwards, and the option for a much hotter firing if wanted.
Steve
Bath
UK
--- On Mon, 8/25/08, Lee Love wrote:
From: Lee Love
Subject: Re: Fastfire wood kiln
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 4:54 AM
Greg, the McKnight resident that followed me at NCC has a 3 firebox
FF, two on one side with a third in the middle on the other. He no
longer fires it with he firebox opening open and does not use the
grates any longer. Instead, if I remember correctly, he has some
kind of channel system that gets air under the coals. He fires
longer now too and salts.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Lee Love on mon 25 aug 08
On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 2:27 PM, jonathan byler wrote:
> Lee, that's funny,
>
> I was going to suggest looking at this kiln from Euan Craig, an
> australian fellow, who also works in mashiko:
>
> http://euancraig.blogspot.com/2007/11/new-kiln-in-nagano.html
>
> it looks like a very solid design. and also looks like you mashiko
> guys know a good thing when you see it. I am going to eventually
> build one like that here, but I had planned to make some variations,
> including arched fireboxes under the kiln, and locating the chimney
> in front by the fireboxes partly in order to get more of a cross
> draught effect in order to mimic better the look of ware fired in an
> anagama type, while at the same time getting better efficieny.
Jon,
Euan's design gets more flashing and ash than Olsen's design.
Euan's work is not glazed on the outside. My shigaraki work at the
flame entry and at the top is unglazed on the outside. I think is
because of the drafting under the kiln shelves with spacing bricks
dividing up the flue exit and both flame entries coming in from the
same side.
I don't think a chimney in between the fireboxes would increase
ash effect. The flue does go between the fireboxes on my kiln.
The only way to get "anagama ash", is to have the fireboxes,
the flame entry, the air entry and the pots all on a horizontal level.
When the ash has to travel vertically, less gets on the pots.
Actually, the pots that get the most ash are right in the fire box
with the wood.
When you think of the ash travel in a wood kiln, remember that
the flame travels like water in a river and flows along the path of
least resistence. And the pots closest to the burning wood get most
of the ash. It isn't efficent heatwise, but that is the sacrifice
you make for the effect you want.
One way to make an anagama more efficent is through better insulation.,
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Kim Hohlmayer on mon 25 aug 08
I am going out on a limb here. I know very little therefore I have an oppinion.:^) When I move here I met and became friends with a potter who fired with wood. He was willing to let me help and in return of course, I get to fire my stuff with his stuff. His was designed to be fired by one person if necessary. The stoking openings are in the front, one left and one right with each being about 4 feet off the ground. They are openings left when he bricks up the door. Then of course he plugs them up when he plugs every other opening for the reduction. The entire firing process takes about 6 hours to get to ^6 then half hour to an hour to get it sealed. Is that sort of what you are thinking of? He told me the kiln is an American groundhog kiln and he build it himself by constructing an arch form and laying the bricks over that. There is no mortar.
Hope this helps. --Kim H.
--- On Fri, 8/22/08, David Todd wrote:
> From: David Todd
> Subject: Fastfire wood kiln
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Friday, August 22, 2008, 6:22 PM
> I'm hoping to get some guidance in building a wood fired
> kiln. I don't know
> anyone who does pottery or has a wood fired kiln and can
> give me some idea
> of how it behaves or some of the issues. Seems I need a
> development permit
> and maybe even a building permit to get started. Where I
> live I shouldn't
> have a problem since I'm zoned commercial and have no
> neighbours for 400
> yards.
> I just bought Fred Olsen's Kiln book and the fast fire
> appeals to me. I also
> bought a relevant book by Troy.
> I intend on using it about 6 times a year at most to go
> along with the cone
> 6 electric and barrel fired work I do. What's a
> reasonable size in cubic
> feet for my use? I will live here another 6 years and then
> will probably
> have to dismantle it and move on (so will fire it about 36
> times). I can get
> used hard brick from a torn down beehive salt kiln by
> sorting through a
> large pile of rubble. These bricks are free and a few hours
> drive away. I
> live on the windy prairies and am concerned about the stack
> height and the
> wind on one side of the firing chamber as opposed to the
> leeward side
> chamber. Would a flat slab 6 inch foundation do in this
> chinook prone area,
> or less? Given my limited use and condition of the bricks
> is it worth
> building any protection like a shelter for it? Or spend
> extra dollars on
> insulating it better? Do people just leave there kilns out
> in the open year
> round and if so, does it limit how much expense they put
> into it. I do sell
> some of my pottery but can't make a living at it. I see
> I will never justify
> the cost of going to much expense building this from what I
> will produce ,
> but I will benefit from the new challenge the learning
> offers. There is
> plenty of wood in the area due to the pine beetle so fuel
> is unlimited and
> can be had for some work. About how much smoke is created
> from a firing that
> might disturb the distant neighbours and businesses?
> I'm sure there are more issues I need consider and
> would appreciate any
> comments to help me be able to get a working kiln.
> David Todd
Hank Murrow on mon 25 aug 08
On Aug 25, 2008, at 6:41 AM, Lee Love wrote:
> On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 9:18 PM, Larry Kruzan
> wrote:
>> Hi Lee,
>> I like that firebox modification, it solves my biggest problem
>> with the
>> fastfire design, but I'm curious about the bars you used for the
>> grates.
>> What are they?
>
> They are long kiln posts. But folks have also used grate bars,
> which are double lengthed, half bricks, cut sc shelves and Euan just
> built one in Wales that has circular kiln posts that are hollow and
> can have a steel rod running inside them, incase they crack. All
> these are more efficent than the original metal grates that have to be
> pulled out or they burn up quick.
Dear Larry;
If one made a mold for a castable mix(I suggest Flocast 30S), one
could cast grate bars that have an oval cross section along most of
the length, but are rectilinear at both ends so they sit nicely on
the hobbs. This would allow spacing for coals to drop, while also
creating a strong (beam-like) cross section to reduce breakage.
Cheers, Hank
Paul Haigh on mon 25 aug 08
Disclaimer: I don't know what the heck I am talking about.
I considered a fast fire kiln until I really looked into the Bourry box kilns. Look at www.sidestoke.com for a lot of good pics and diagrams etc of Bouury box kilns. Also- as others said- the Steve Harrison book is a great resource.
This was the first kiln I built. I went to a woodfiring locally, read a few books, lots of internet searches, and asked questions here, but in the end I designed the kiln around a design in Laid Back Woodfiring with some modifications that I'll explain:
I added a collection box between the chamber and the chimney. This brings all uncombusted gases together. I added passive dampers here, which seems to help add air for reducing smoke. This is sort of a bit like a sutema in an anagama I guess. The kiln produces little smoke unless I want to overdo it with reduction.
I don't have a step or bag wall between the firebox and the ware chamber. This really creates some variability in the ash and flash deposits on pots: stuff at the bottom front gets seriously blasted as these pots act like a bag wall. Because of this arrangement- the bottom shelves need to be stacked TIGHT or the flame gets sucked across the bottom and the top doesn't get to temp. It took a few fires to figure this all out- in fact because I once fire, it seems that the shrinkage of the pots opens up enough air channels to create an issue. Throw some bricks and refires in there to choke it up, and you get good effect throughout and an easier firing. A step and or bagwall would make this kiln an easy firer.
On wood- Split and stack in a sunny area uncovered in the summer- softwoods (pine, fir) dry in a year or so. Most hardwoods take a year or so- but oak takes longer. Split it BEFORE you age it for quickest drying! Thinner splits dry faster and burn faster- releasing heat quicker. These are basics that anyone with a woodstove knows. A Bourry box wants some coals in the bottom of the firebox, so you need some hardwood in the firing.
Another hint- I made my firebox 4.5 brick lengths wide. That's 40.5". A wooden pallet is often 48" x 40". Hit craigslist and find a source of pallets- they are super dry, thin split, burn like mad. Just cut along the 48" length and you have a mess of 40" wood- burn them nails and all. Remember they have a lot of air in them when still nailed together- so the stack is not as big as it looks. This wood is super energy boost at the end of a firing, it's free, it's recycling. Some folks fire entirely with pallets.
Steve Mills on tue 26 aug 08
Jon,
In the UK I use Class B engineering bricks which are essentially house bricks with LOTS of holes in them. These are the floor of the firebox, and the only entry for primary air. Elsewhere I have used straight engineering brick which has 3 larger holes in them. They all do the job really well, burning all the embers and pre-heating the air, so that the firebox can get extremely hot, and no the floor doesn't melt!
Steve
Bath
UK
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, jonathan byler wrote:
From: jonathan byler
Subject: Re: Fastfire wood kiln
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 6:40 PM
does anyone have pictures of what the perforated fire box floor looks
like? I have seen the mouse holes in some designs that are there to
help keep the embers burning. are these perforated floors
essentially lots of mouse holes?
jon
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Aug 25, 2008, at 4:47 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> -----
>
> On 8/25/08, Steve Mills wrote:
>> That's the principle I work on; in all my kilns the primary air
>> all comes in through the perforated floor of the firebox, getting
>> pre-heat from the embers (which get burnt properly not left
>> behind!), resulting in a much more economical firing, with zero
>> ash left in the firebox afterwards, and the option for a much
>> hotter firing if wanted.
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> Steve, I think this is similar to Greg's solution.
> --
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
jonathan byler on tue 26 aug 08
does anyone have pictures of what the perforated fire box floor looks
like? I have seen the mouse holes in some designs that are there to
help keep the embers burning. are these perforated floors
essentially lots of mouse holes?
jon
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Aug 25, 2008, at 4:47 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> -----
>
> On 8/25/08, Steve Mills wrote:
>> That's the principle I work on; in all my kilns the primary air
>> all comes in through the perforated floor of the firebox, getting
>> pre-heat from the embers (which get burnt properly not left
>> behind!), resulting in a much more economical firing, with zero
>> ash left in the firebox afterwards, and the option for a much
>> hotter firing if wanted.
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> Steve, I think this is similar to Greg's solution.
> --
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Lee Love on tue 26 aug 08
-----
On 8/25/08, Steve Mills wrote:
> That's the principle I work on; in all my kilns the primary air all comes in through the perforated floor of the firebox, getting pre-heat from the embers (which get burnt properly not left behind!), resulting in a much more economical firing, with zero ash left in the firebox afterwards, and the option for a much hotter firing if wanted.
--------------------------------------------------
Steve, I think this is similar to Greg's solution.
--
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Lee Love on tue 26 aug 08
On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:40 PM, jonathan byler wrote:
> does anyone have pictures of what the perforated fire box floor looks
> like? I have seen the mouse holes in some designs that are there to
> help keep the embers burning. are these perforated floors
> essentially lots of mouse holes?
Steve uses buff house bricks with holes in them.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
jonathan byler on tue 26 aug 08
those are pretty well fire-bricks themselves, no? I have seen houses
in philadelphia that used something that looked like hard firebrick
for the outside walls. They seemed denser and more vitreous than
regular bricks.
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Aug 26, 2008, at 3:18 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:40 PM, jonathan byler
> wrote:
>> does anyone have pictures of what the perforated fire box floor looks
>> like? I have seen the mouse holes in some designs that are there to
>> help keep the embers burning. are these perforated floors
>> essentially lots of mouse holes?
>
> Steve uses buff house bricks with holes in them.
>
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Steve Mills on wed 27 aug 08
Jon,
I use a buff house brick for the body of the kiln over here; they are sold as a house brick, but as you correctly observed are more like a firebrick (I've taken them to 1350oC), and very cheap in comparison to normal hard kiln bricks, hence my using them!
The firebox floor ones are perforated red brick.
Steve
Bath
UK
--- On Wed, 8/27/08, jonathan byler wrote:
From: jonathan byler
Subject: Re: Fastfire wood kiln
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 1:43 AM
those are pretty well fire-bricks themselves, no? I have seen houses
in philadelphia that used something that looked like hard firebrick
for the outside walls. They seemed denser and more vitreous than
regular bricks.
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Aug 26, 2008, at 3:18 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 12:40 PM, jonathan byler
> wrote:
>> does anyone have pictures of what the perforated fire box floor looks
>> like? I have seen the mouse holes in some designs that are there to
>> help keep the embers burning. are these perforated floors
>> essentially lots of mouse holes?
>
> Steve uses buff house bricks with holes in them.
>
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Joan Slack on thu 15 mar 12
hi...I am planning to relocate, and have an Olsen Fastfire kiln at my =3D
place of business. The exterior is hardbrick and the interior softbrick. =
=3D
It is 3' by3' by3' firing chamber, 2 stoking boxes, and lots of shelves =3D
and posts.
I am located in northern Wisconsin about 3 hours north of Madison. The =3D
kiln was built by Fred Olsen at a summer workshop, and it fires =3D
beautifully to cone 10-12 in about 10 hours. The kiln can also be fired =3D
with gas burners as well as wood.
It would have to be dismantled. Price is negotiable. I have photos =3D
available.
Please contact me at my e-mail riverrun@newnorth.net, or 715-277-4224.
Thanks,
Joan
gary navarre on thu 15 mar 12
I think I've seen you're distress in earlie=3D
That's to bad Jone, =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0I think I've seen you're distress i=
n earlie=3D
r posts. I'm kinda in the same boat only my kiln weighs about 7 tons. I don=
=3D
't think there is much sympathy for our situation, most potters suffer from=
=3D
a poverty mentality anyway, and get the sense of Vultures flying overhead.=
=3D
However, since wood firing is falling out of fashion we might be better of=
=3D
f cutting our losses and let the bulldozers do the rest, unless I can find =
=3D
some young idealist to cart it away I think I'm just out 5 grand. Guess I d=
=3D
eserve it though, I did get the money working at Wal*Mart and we all know t=
=3D
hat's worse than dealing contraband.=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0=3D0AGary Navarre=3D0ANa=
varre Pott=3D
ery=3D0ANavarre Enterprises=3D0ANorway, Michigan, USA=3D0Ahttp://www.Navarr=
ePotte=3D
ry.etsy.com=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0 <...... New Pots=3D0Ahttp://www.youtub=
e.com/GindaU=3D
P=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A_________________=
__________=3D
_____=3D0A From: Joan Slack =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CER=
AMIC=3D
S.ORG =3D0ASent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 9:42 AM=3D0ASubject: [Clayart] Fa=
stfi=3D
re wood kiln=3D0A =3D0Ahi...I am planning to relocate, and have an Olsen Fa=
stfi=3D
re kiln at my place of business. The exterior is hardbrick and the interior=
=3D
softbrick. It is 3' by3' by3' firing chamber, 2 stoking boxes, and lots of=
=3D
shelves and posts.=3D0AI am located in northern Wisconsin about 3 hours no=
rt=3D
h of Madison. The kiln was built by Fred Olsen at a summer workshop, and it=
=3D
fires beautifully to cone 10-12 in about 10 hours. The kiln can also be fi=
=3D
red with gas burners as well as wood.=3D0A=3D0AIt would have to be dismantl=
ed. =3D
Price is negotiable. I have photos available.=3D0APlease contact me at my e=
-m=3D
ail riverrun@newnorth.net, or 715-277-4224.=3D0AThanks,=3D0AJoan
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