Jim V Brooks on wed 23 may 01
Gayle, you can fire some glass as high as cone 06.. but not with control and
with some damage to the glass.... Compatable glass for fusing generally
slumps about 1100degrees F.---- fuses at 1250 degrees F... or there abouts.
Window glass slumps at about 1250-1300degrees F.. and fuses at about 1450
degrees F. These temps are approx.. and can vary a little for different
glasses. You can melt marbles to cone 06... but may damage the glass and
the clearness of the glass. Some glass will begin to devitrify shortly after
the fuse temp is reached and will become cloudy, and ugly. There is a "lead
base" spray you can get at glass shops that will help to flux the glass but
not all the way to 1800 degrees F.
You might test a few pieces by firing your bisque to cone 06.. and then
refiring it...with the glass... to a lower temp.. This will work if the fuse
temp of the glass is reached. Even then you will have a lot of crazing due
to the difference in shrinkage between glass and clay. But, try it... you
may find a way.
Be sure and dont mix different glasses.. Unless they are compatable
glasses,... they will crack and break apart..sometimes weeks after the
initial fusing...
Jim in Denton
Gayle Bair on wed 23 may 01
Hi All,
I bought some low fire clay because I want to fire some garden pieces at the
same time I bisque my ^6 porcelain. I fire ^06 oxidation.
I will not be glazing these pieces but was wondering if I could put some
glass in them. They are decorative flat dishes with a rim that can be used
as bird seed feeders.
My questions are:
Can I fire the glass to ^06?
What is the usual ^ for glass?
Is it ok to do this as a once fire?
Thanks,
Gayle Bair- on Bainbridge Island WA .. yet another glorious sunny day in the
Seattle area.... and we will assuredly pay for it later with a drought.
However all the people interviewed on the moronic news said they don't
care...
Jim V Brooks on thu 24 may 01
KIln wash....? NO NO NO>. dont use any wash with silicon.. it will stick to
the glass. use Alumina...
Gayle Bair on thu 24 may 01
Hi Marta,
I was considering using some little glass pieces generally used in vases.
I have no idea at what temp it will fuse/melt.
I'll have to test it in my next bisque firing.
What a good idea to use a low fire glaze to encourage the fusing!
Thanks,
Gayle- Bainbridge Island WA
http://claybair.com
ps Nice web site. I see Russell did it! Very nice Russell! One of these days
I'll finish mine!
Marta wrote>>
Gayle,
what kind of glass do you want to use?
i did some experiments with green beer bottle glass and blue water bottle
glass. it didnt even fuse at cone 06. with a little help from low fire
glazes on top of the broken glass pieces they fused to the pot, but didnt
melt at bisque temp.
finally i fired them to cone 9-10 and got some nice turquise from the two
colored glasses.
i`d like to know, what temp do they melt, but my guess is, that it depends
on the type of the glass. mine was heineken...
cheers,
marta
http://www.mypots.com/Marta.htm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html
__________
Ron Collins on thu 24 may 01
Gayle....Kathy Triplett says in her book Handbuilt Ceramics...to use the
flat bisque fired piece as your glass slump mold...put kiln wash on the
bisque so the glass won't stick, slump it following her instructions and to
her suggested temp, then afterward, take it out and epoxy it in...she has
some nice examples....I think it's too much trouble except for light
fixtures as far as I'm concerned...I played around with the idea, but I'm
too involved in clay to fool around with glass, so just stopped it....let us
know if it works....Melinda in Guatemala
Marta M. Gloviczki on thu 24 may 01
Gayle,
what kind of glass do you want to use?
i did some experiments with green beer bottle glass and blue water bottle
glass. it didnt even fuse at cone 06. with a little help from low fire
glazes on top of the broken glass pieces they fused to the pot, but didnt
melt at bisque temp.
finally i fired them to cone 9-10 and got some nice turquise from the two
colored glasses.
i`d like to know, what temp do they melt, but my guess is, that it depends
on the type of the glass. mine was heineken...
cheers,
marta
http://www.mypots.com/Marta.htm
http://www.silverhawk.com/crafts/gloviczki/welcome.html
Jim Bozeman on fri 25 may 01
I too am very interested in "warm" glass,( to differentiate between "cold",
stained glass, or "hot", blown glass.) I'm mostly interested in "Kiln cast
glass". Bullseye glass will flow at approx 1500-1550 degrees F. A great book
on the subject is called "Contemporary Warm Glass"- A Guide to Fusing,
Slumping, and Kiln-forming Techniques. By Brad Walker. Available at : Four
Corners International 4140 Clemmons Road #320 Clemmons, NC 27012 ($47.95
per copy)
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Jeremy McLeod on fri 25 may 01
Wanted to add my recommendation to that of Jim Bozeman's...
"Warmglass" is a website with more information about the
art and science of melting, slumping, fusing glass than
you'll probably *ever* want to know. It also has a threaded
discussion Bulletin Board.
www.warmglass.com
Enjoy.
Jeremy McLeod
Marta M. Gloviczki on fri 25 may 01
Gayle,
i just remembered, that when i started to fool around with glass pieces
fired into clay, i got some good advise from don goodrich.
he has examples of work with glass on his website:
http://members.aol.com/goodrchdn/
hope this helps,
marta
Don Goodrich on fri 25 may 01
That was just a slight misspelling, Marta. The stoneware/glass pieces can be
seen at:
http://members.aol.com/goodrichdn/candle.htm
Your post made me realize that I hadn't updated that page in quite awhile,
so thanks for giving me some motivation. I've just finished adding a few more
pictures, so more variety is evident. The pictures are about 24k each, so the
page will take a little time to load. One is clickable for a close-up of the
crackle effect of glass on clay.
As always, the pipe-fitting glass crusher plans can be downloaded from
this page.
Cheers,
Don Goodrich in Zion, Illinois
goodrichdn@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/goodrichdn/
Anne Wellings on sat 26 may 01
An aquaintance who tried melting glass in her electric kiln said there was
some problem with the molten glass spitting and possibly landing on the
elements or other unwanted places. Maybe it was fired too fast or too hot?
Anne
Anne Wellings on sat 26 may 01
Where I used to teach, a studio user was taking stained glass classes and
brought in all her various colored scrap glass pieces for anyone to use.
They were arranged inside glazed bowls and plates and fired to ^10
reduction with beautiful results. I don't know what the differences would
be, in terms of melting temperature, etc., between this glass and bottle
glass.
Anne Wellings
William Moody on sun 27 may 01
Many times the glass people try to use is not formulated for slumping or the
like. A company called Bull's-eye manufactures a glass specifically to use
in kilns etc. At the university I attended we used this glass almost
exclusively for slumping. I forget the specific temps we fired to but we had
a set ramp up, hold and ramp down to prevent the glass from devitrifying.
Regular sheet glass had a great many problems and you never knew what was
going to happen with it.
> An aquaintance who tried melting glass in her electric kiln said there was
> some problem with the molten glass spitting and possibly landing on the
> elements or other unwanted places. Maybe it was fired too fast or too hot?
debkaplan3 on sun 27 may 01
Hi all,
I fire cone 6 oxidation & my pieces of glass melt quite nicely. I either
use mosaic glass tiles or the little round flat marbles that one uses for
glass vases. (Put pretty colored glass in bottom of vase & flowers for
display). I get bags at my local craft store.
I particularly like what I call the "glass to glaze interface", which forms
around the entire piece of melted glass, highlighting it. I've been using
glass placed on top of platters, sushi dishes & trays. Has anyone
incorporated glass on to the side of a vertical surface without having it
melt all the way down to the kiln shelf??
Debbie Kaplan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On
Behalf Of Jim Bozeman
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 5:17 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Firing temp of glass
I too am very interested in "warm" glass,( to differentiate between "cold",
stained glass, or "hot", blown glass.) I'm mostly interested in "Kiln cast
glass". Bullseye glass will flow at approx 1500-1550 degrees F. A great book
on the subject is called "Contemporary Warm Glass"- A Guide to Fusing,
Slumping, and Kiln-forming Techniques. By Brad Walker. Available at : Four
Corners International 4140 Clemmons Road #320 Clemmons, NC 27012 ($47.95
per copy)
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Richard Mahaffey on mon 28 may 01
William,
The main problem with glass firing is annealing the glass to relieve
stresses that build up with the heating and cooling process. The glass
needs to be held at a temperature just below the slumping temperature of
a glass rod for some hours depending on the thickness. We used
temperatures around 1000 to 950 degrees F for the glass that we were
blowing at San Jose State University in the early '70's. The rule was
at least one hour for every inch of thickness. That rule is
insufficient for anything thicker than 1.5 inches. I would do a hold at
slumping temperature and another hold about 100 to 150 Degrees F lower
for an hour or two and then ramp down slowly. you can slump window
glass, but the annealing temperature is higher than for glass like
Bullseye makes.
Your mileage may vary, of course.
Rick
| |
|
