k.m.whipple@ATT.NET on wed 30 may 01
I have sometimes used "spooge", a concoction made of
molassess or white glue, powdered clay from your
claybody, and vinegar. Mix a workable paste and press it
into the cracks. Once dry you can sand it smooth. I have
used it on nearly bone dry peices (repairing handles, in
particular) and it nearly always works. I think using
the dry clay powder gives the mixture less shrinkage
than suing slip, so it fills the cracks and they stay
filled. Good luck!
beth ellen brickey on wed 30 may 01
Howdy
This recipe is similar to what others have suggested. I am curious though
as to why these "kinds" of ingredients (i.e., molasses, white glue, karo
syrup and such) don't burn out when firing?
:-?
>From: k.m.whipple@ATT.NET
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: repairing greenware
>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:44:46 +0000
>
>I have sometimes used "spooge", a concoction made of
>molassess or white glue, powdered clay from your
>claybody, and vinegar. Mix a workable paste and press it
>into the cracks. Once dry you can sand it smooth. I have
>used it on nearly bone dry peices (repairing handles, in
>particular) and it nearly always works. I think using
>the dry clay powder gives the mixture less shrinkage
>than suing slip, so it fills the cracks and they stay
>filled. Good luck!
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Beth Hamilton on wed 30 may 01
They do but leave the clay you have mixed with them behind to fill in the cracks.
>From: beth ellen brickey
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: repairing greenware
>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:00:27 -0600
>
>Howdy
>
>This recipe is similar to what others have suggested. I am curious
>though
>as to why these "kinds" of ingredients (i.e., molasses, white glue,
>karo
>syrup and such) don't burn out when firing?
>
>:-?
>
>
>
>>From: k.m.whipple@ATT.NET
>>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>Subject: repairing greenware
>>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:44:46 +0000
>>
>>I have sometimes used "spooge", a concoction made of
>>molassess or white glue, powdered clay from your
>>claybody, and vinegar. Mix a workable paste and press it
>>into the cracks. Once dry you can sand it smooth. I have
>>used it on nearly bone dry peices (repairing handles, in
>>particular) and it nearly always works. I think using
>>the dry clay powder gives the mixture less shrinkage
>>than suing slip, so it fills the cracks and they stay
>>filled. Good luck!
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>>subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
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Snail Scott on wed 30 may 01
At 11:00 AM 5/30/01 -0600, you wrote:
>This recipe is similar to what others have suggested. I am curious though
>as to why these "kinds" of ingredients (i.e., molasses, white glue, karo
>syrup and such) don't burn out when firing?
>
>:-?
They do burn out.
I speculate that the reason these fixes (corn syrup,
molasses, glue, etc.) work is that they create a sort
of solid 'matrix' around the clay particles, suspending
them further apart after drying than they would be if
applied as a simple water-based slip. They burn away in
firing, but leave the clay particles where they were.
The repair is almost certainly weaker than the clay
around it because of this, and I would use it sparingly
in high-stress locations. It can work surprisingly well
for embarrassing but non-structural cracks, however.
My feeling on repairs is: If the repair takes longer
than remaking the piece would, or if the flaw might
compromise the normal function or durability of the
piece, forget it. But, if I've spent three weeks on
a single piece of sculpture, I'm damn well gonna fill
that crack!
-Snail
>
>
>
>>From: k.m.whipple@ATT.NET
>>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>>Subject: repairing greenware
>>Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:44:46 +0000
>>
>>I have sometimes used "spooge", a concoction made of
>>molassess or white glue, powdered clay from your
>>claybody, and vinegar. Mix a workable paste and press it
>>into the cracks. Once dry you can sand it smooth. I have
>>used it on nearly bone dry peices (repairing handles, in
>>particular) and it nearly always works. I think using
>>the dry clay powder gives the mixture less shrinkage
>>than suing slip, so it fills the cracks and they stay
>>filled. Good luck!
>>
vince pitelka on wed 30 may 01
> This recipe is similar to what others have suggested. I am curious though
> as to why these "kinds" of ingredients (i.e., molasses, white glue, karo
> syrup and such) don't burn out when firing?
Beth Ellen -
They are all carbon based, so of course they DO burn out in the firing, but
in the mean time they hold everything in place, and the crystaline structure
of these material that forms as they dry helps prevent drying shrinkage.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
Chaeli Sullivan on mon 5 nov 07
Kate
There's a recipe for "magic water" over on my blogspot: http://claygallimaufry.blogspot.com
Haven't tried it myself, as i've been using Aztec, but the recipe originates from San Diego university i think. Sorry about that am really tired & can't remember but the source is listed above the recipe along with the site link.
Good luck
Chae
http://claygallimaufry.blogspot.com
Kate Champa wrote:
Another plaint about a broken piece (stupidly handled by me),
handbuilt and rather nice. I will try to make another in the same
veink but would like to try to fix this. Many clay art posts talk
about magic water as part of a fixing recipe -- what is it? Spooze I
know about and it might work, but I'd love other suggestions as well.
Kate Champa, R.I.
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Kate Champa on mon 5 nov 07
Another plaint about a broken piece (stupidly handled by me),
handbuilt and rather nice. I will try to make another in the same
veink but would like to try to fix this. Many clay art posts talk
about magic water as part of a fixing recipe -- what is it? Spooze I
know about and it might work, but I'd love other suggestions as well.
Kate Champa, R.I.
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