beth ellen brickey on mon 28 may 01
Howdy! Any good methods for saving a good pot that has a hairline crack?
It appears that it runs along between the first coil and the base. I
failed to get a good bond this time. I would love to save it. It had
potential. ;-)
Beth Ellen Nagle
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Penni Stoddart on tue 29 may 01
I have found what I call Magic Water. It is made up of 1/3 vinegar, 1/3
corn syrup and 1/3 slip. I had to add extra slip to mine to make it nice and
thick but I have used it on cracks in bisque ware and it worked then too!
Good luck
~~~~
Penni Stoddart of Penelope's Pots
President, Artisans London (Ontario, Canada)
LPG web site Manager
www.members.home.net/londonpotters
Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film.
Tony Ferguson on tue 29 may 01
Hi,
I was wondering what proportions?
--- Pam Pulley wrote:
> What I have used is a paper clay slip. Clay,
> vineger, and torn up newspaper
> into the blender and go for it. Others in our co-op
> use it on bisque and
> refire with great results also.
>
> Good Luck
> -Pam, in sunny but cool Michigan
>
>
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craig clark on tue 29 may 01
Try mixing a little vinegar with a slip made from the clay body used to
make the pot. Brush a bit of the mixture into the crack, let it dry, see if
crack is gone. Repeat if neccessary. This has worked, albiet sporadically,
for me in the past. I believe that a chemical reaction, nuetralization type,
occurs when the vinegar reacts with the alkaline clay body that I use. I
don't know if you will get the same results.
-----Original Message-----
From: beth ellen brickey
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 5:30 AM
Subject: Repairing hairline cracks in greenware
>Howdy! Any good methods for saving a good pot that has a hairline crack?
>It appears that it runs along between the first coil and the base. I
>failed to get a good bond this time. I would love to save it. It had
>potential. ;-)
>
>Beth Ellen Nagle
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Timakia@AOL.COM on tue 29 may 01
Beth, was this a couple of years ago, I would have advised you to chuck the
pot back into water, but paperclay brought some limited solutions. You did
not say what clay this pot was made of. Some clays are more refractory than
others and your success rate will be less unless you add some flux to the
paperclay. What you want is a clay that will melt enough to litterally weld
the crack together again.
This is what you do. Take some parraffin (lampoil) and paint it directly on
the crack. This will show you all of the crack so that you do not miss the
far ends of it that is not visable to the eye.Mark it. Take a very sharp tool
and carefully open the whole crack, right through the wall of the pot. Take
some paperclay (you will find recipes in the archives) and mix it into a
stiff paste. If you work with a very refractory clay (stoneware or porcelain)
you can add a teaspoon of any flux, like ferro fritts, that will melt at a
bisque temperature to one cup full of paperclay paste. Push that through the
crack from the one side of the wall. keep on doing that till it comes out on
the other end and fill all of the crack. Wipe off the extra clay. Let stand
to dry. It might leave a dimple and in some cases another smaller crack. In
last case you will have to repeat the process on a smaller scale, till it
totally dissapear. A dimple can simply be filled up till it dissapear. After
bisque firing it might be neccesaary to sand it to get a smooth surface again.
This is a time consuming process, so you will have to judge whether it is
worth it to go through all that trouble and still risk some failure.
Sometimes it is much quicker to simply repeat the pot and cut out the
mistakes made in the first one.
Antoinette Badenhorst
PO Box 552
Saltillo,MS
38866
http://hometown.aol.com/timakia
Pam Pulley on tue 29 may 01
What I have used is a paper clay slip. Clay, vineger, and torn up newspaper
into the blender and go for it. Others in our co-op use it on bisque and
refire with great results also.
Good Luck
-Pam, in sunny but cool Michigan
LOGAN OPLINGER on wed 30 may 01
Beth,
This sounds like a coil pot. Is the inside smoothed over? If yes, work from this side. Is the outside smoothed over? If yes work from this side. If yes to both, work from both sides.
If the pot is dry, apply vinegar to the clay on each side of the crack until it is visibly dampened. It may be necessary to repeat this step one or mor times. Then apply a thin watery slip to the crack, made with the clay plus vinegar. Allow capillary action to draw the thin slip into the crack. Repeat until no slip can be drawn in. This should also soften the clay on each side of the crack to be plastic enough to work together. Work the sides of the crack together with a tool to weld the softened clay. If you can, apply a small amount of plastic clay, also made using vinegar, over the crack working the clay together as you go.
It is possible that the crack is large enough or the stresses in the clay high enough that the crack will reappear as the clay drys, or after it is bisqued, or even after it is glazed.
Good luck,
Logan Oplinger
-----Original Message-----
> Howdy! Any good methods for saving a good pot that has a hairline crack?
> It appears that it runs along between the first coil and the base. I
> failed to get a good bond this time. I would love to save it. It had
> potential. ;-)
>
> Beth Ellen Nagle
--
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Get your free email from http://email.cnn.com
kruzewski on wed 30 may 01
I have repaired greenware with paperclay.
The most successful I ever used was toilet paper liquidised with powder clay and
water/vinegar mix.Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't.
It's often most successful with bisc ware, in my experience. I made a beer tankard
for my father in law for Christmas. It featured a very detailed polish eagle,
sprigged on the front. I got in a mess with a dinner set order and asked
ex-colleagues at a local pottery if they'd bisc fire it for me. The centre of the
eagle blew off but was in one piece. I put it back with the paperclay mix and
carved out the bits that were missing so it all matched, glazed over and it came
out so well you'd not have known. I did this once with a mug with a big AGA sprig
on the front that did the same thing. Not long ago I was drinking out of this mug
(I would never sell it once that had happened - just in case) and was asking myself
why it was a second (I never use my own firsts) - the mend was so good.
I would add a word of caution though. I've spent many an hour trying to rescue a
pot that had cracked - hairline or otherwise. These days, especially if it's green
ware, I bin it and make new. Most of the time I got them through the bisc OK, then
would glaze fire and it was then the crack opened up. I get few cracks anyway but I
find it's not worth the time and effort because the success rate is not that good.
It may be of interest only, but when I worked in porthmadog pottery and a sprig
would start to crack away from a pot we'd use spit to mend the crack. This often
worked but Health and Safety wise was not good practice - and it looked revolting!
Hope you find a way to rescue your pot - or let go without too much angst.
Jacqui, North Wales, who, as the subject has come up, is half Welsh and very proud
of it, and half English. Only in this part of Wales you only really qualify as
Welsh if you speak Welsh, and I don't. Ethnicity seems to be a difficult thing!
beth ellen brickey wrote:
> Howdy! Any good methods for saving a good pot that has a hairline crack?
> It appears that it runs along between the first coil and the base. I
> failed to get a good bond this time. I would love to save it. It had
> potential. ;-)
>
> Beth Ellen Nagle
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
vince pitelka on wed 30 may 01
> I have found what I call Magic Water. It is made up of 1/3 vinegar, 1/3
> corn syrup and 1/3 slip. I had to add extra slip to mine to make it nice
and
> thick but I have used it on cracks in bisque ware and it worked then too!
Penni -
This mixture is called "spooze." Magic water is entirely different - a
concoction that Lana Wilson uses - it is composed of water plus small
additions of sodium silicate and soda ash, and is used for joining wet clay
without scoring the connection.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
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