Alisa og Claus Clausen on fri 25 may 01
Hi Arnold,
My kiln will not turn on with the door open It has an automatic shut =
off in the door when the door opens. Do you think the only way to test =
the elements by your suggestion is to disconnet this security? I do not =
know how to, but I am sure I could or definitley Claus man can figure it =
out.
I was thinking I could use the spy holes, but after checking, I cannot =
see all the elements thru them.
Best regards,
Alisa in Denmark
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Arnold Howard
To:
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: Need Kiln Element Testing Help - Bailey Electric
> The easiest method to check the elements is to turn the kiln on
> until the elements glow. Raise the lid slightly and see which
> elements are burned out.
>=20
> Some kilns use "tuned" elements, which means the elements in the
> hotter section of the kiln don't draw as much power as other
> elements. It will take longer for cooler elements to glow.
>=20
> If you suspect a loose element connection, open the switch box. A
> loose connection will appear discolored.
>=20
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon
>=20
> --- Andie Carpenter wrote:
> > I have a shimpo cone art kiln 7 cu ft electric , though
> > technically
> > bought from Bailey Ceramic Supply. I've hassled them enough
> > recently
> > that I'm afraid to call again now that my kiln is acting up, and
> > am
> > hoping someone out there can give me some guidance.
> >
> > My firings have very suddenly (just the last four) become
> > increasingly
> > long - Waaaayyy longer than they should be, by three to four
> > hours. I
> > keep really specific firing records, so I am very sure that it
> > went from
> > one hour longer to three to four, and had not been showing any
> > drastic
> > (no more than +/- 1/2 hour) change in firing time in the past
> > year and a
> > half. I suspect either 1) an element going out or 2) a corroded
> > wire in
> > an element. This is the first kiln I've owned, and the ones at my
> > University were repaired by staff and not students, so I'm hoping
> > someone can help me by:
> >
> > 1) telling me if I'm out of my mind with what I suspect is wrong
> >
> > 2) talk me through testing my elements
> >
> > 3) talk me through any other tests I should do
> >
> > Anyone interested in educating me will be most appreciated, and
> > can feel
> > free to email me off list -
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > : ) Andie
> > andie@andie.net
> >
> >
> =
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> > subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>=20
>=20
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
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>=20
> =
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>=20
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>=20
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
>=20
Jeremy/Bonnie Hellman on fri 25 may 01
Hi Alisa,
You might like the way of testing kiln elements that I was taught.
You take a book of paper matches, and put the paper ends in the kiln element
coils. The matches are thin enough that you should not bend or distort the
elements.
You put matches in every section of element, and then turn on the
electricity. You don't have to look so the door of your kiln can remain
closed, because relatively quickly (within 5 minutes?) the elements that are
heating up will cause the matches to burst into flame. The elements that are
not heating will not, in that short a time frame.
Regards,
Bonnie
> Hi Arnold,
> My kiln will not turn on with the door open It has an automatic shut off in
> the door when the door opens. Do you think the only way to test the elements
> by your suggestion is to disconnet this security? I do not know how to, but I
> am sure I could or definitley Claus man can figure it out.
>
> I was thinking I could use the spy holes, but after checking, I cannot see all
> the elements thru them.
>
> Best regards,
> Alisa in Denmark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Arnold Howard
> To:
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 1:26 AM
> Subject: Re: Need Kiln Element Testing Help - Bailey Electric
>
>
>> The easiest method to check the elements is to turn the kiln on
>> until the elements glow. Raise the lid slightly and see which
>> elements are burned out.
>>
>> Some kilns use "tuned" elements, which means the elements in the
>> hotter section of the kiln don't draw as much power as other
>> elements. It will take longer for cooler elements to glow.
>>
>> If you suspect a loose element connection, open the switch box. A
>> loose connection will appear discolored.
>>
>> Arnold Howard
>> Paragon
>>
>> --- Andie Carpenter wrote:
>>> I have a shimpo cone art kiln 7 cu ft electric , though
>>> technically
>>> bought from Bailey Ceramic Supply. I've hassled them enough
>>> recently
>>> that I'm afraid to call again now that my kiln is acting up, and
>>> am
>>> hoping someone out there can give me some guidance.
>>>
>>> My firings have very suddenly (just the last four) become
>>> increasingly
>>> long - Waaaayyy longer than they should be, by three to four
>>> hours. I
>>> keep really specific firing records, so I am very sure that it
>>> went from
>>> one hour longer to three to four, and had not been showing any
>>> drastic
>>> (no more than +/- 1/2 hour) change in firing time in the past
>>> year and a
>>> half. I suspect either 1) an element going out or 2) a corroded
>>> wire in
>>> an element. This is the first kiln I've owned, and the ones at my
>>> University were repaired by staff and not students, so I'm hoping
>>> someone can help me by:
>>>
>>> 1) telling me if I'm out of my mind with what I suspect is wrong
>>>
>>> 2) talk me through testing my elements
>>>
>>> 3) talk me through any other tests I should do
>>>
>>> Anyone interested in educating me will be most appreciated, and
>>> can feel
>>> free to email me off list -
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> : ) Andie
>>> andie@andie.net
>>>
>>>
>>
____________________________________________________________________________
_>> _
>>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>>
>>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>>> subscription
>>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>>
>>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>>
>>
____________________________________________________________________________
_>> _
>> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>> melpots@pclink.com.
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Arnold Howard on tue 29 may 01
Alisa, you can also check elements with an ohmmeter. If your kiln
uses 4-way rotary switches, an ohmmeter will check not only your
elements but all the wiring and the switches at the same time. If
your kiln is electronic or uses infinite control switches, you will
need to remove the switch box and check the elements at the element
connectors.
You do not need to disturb the wires attached to the element
connectors (with an exception--see below). Merely place the leads
of the ohmmeter on each pair of element connectors. If an element
is burned out, it will show as infinity ohms on a digital meter or
no needle movement on an analog meter.
If elements are wired in series-parallel, you could get a good
reading even when checking a broken element. Elements wired in
series-parallel will have more than one wire attached to an element
connector.
Another method to test elements: take an ammeter reading while the
kiln is firing with all switches turned to high position. Compare
the ammeter reading with the amperage your kiln is rated for. (The
electrical data plate on the switch box lists amperage.) If your
amperage is very low, you probably have a burned out element,
disconnected element wire, or defective relay.
With best wishes,
Arnold Howard
Paragon
--- Alisa og Claus Clausen wrote:
> Hi Arnold,
> My kiln will not turn on with the door open It has an automatic
> shut off in the door when the door opens. Do you think the only
> way to test the elements by your suggestion is to disconnet this
> security? I do not know how to, but I am sure I could or
> definitley Claus man can figure it out.
>
> I was thinking I could use the spy holes, but after checking, I
> cannot see all the elements thru them.
>
> Best regards,
> Alisa in Denmark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Arnold Howard
> To:
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 1:26 AM
> Subject: Re: Need Kiln Element Testing Help - Bailey Electric
>
>
> > The easiest method to check the elements is to turn the kiln on
> > until the elements glow. Raise the lid slightly and see which
> > elements are burned out.
> >
> > Some kilns use "tuned" elements, which means the elements in
> the
> > hotter section of the kiln don't draw as much power as other
> > elements. It will take longer for cooler elements to glow.
> >
> > If you suspect a loose element connection, open the switch box.
> A
> > loose connection will appear discolored.
> >
> > Arnold Howard
> > Paragon
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