search  current discussion  categories  glazes - misc 

glaze layering

updated tue 5 jun 01

 

Gary Finfrock on sat 2 jun 01


Hello to everyone on the digest,

I'm relatively new to pottery, having been at it just over a year. =
I'm getting along fairly well with throwing, but my glazing techniques =
leave a lot to be desired. Can anyone suggest two glazes (commercial or =
home-mix) that work well when layered and the application technique. =
Also, is there a good printed source that explains and shows color =
plates of the results.
If anyone reading this is close to Inverness, Florida, I'd love to =
come to your studio and observe your processes. Thank you very.

Gary
garybear@hitter.net=20

Dave Finkelnburg on sat 2 jun 01


Gary,
The time-tested method which works best in this case is frequently
referred to in my studio as "trial and mistake." :-) Just do it.
You must be using some sort of glazes now. First get a notebook. Write
down what you are doing as you go. Don't rely on memory after the fact.
Good notes will save you time in the long run.
Make yourself a set of test tiles which show every possible layering
combination you can get with the glazes you have. If you have only a white
and a blue, glaze one tile white, one blue, then glaze half of each a second
time with the other glaze. Then fire. Afterward you can see the layered
effect and see which glaze was under, which over.
You can do the same thing with a third layer, etc. The idea is to test.
If your first tests are by dip glazing, then you can try dipping one
glaze, brushing on the other, or dipping one, spraying on the other. Get
the idea? You are not making ware. You are exploring the glaze
combinations available from the glazes you have.
I hope you find some combination you like.
The ClayArt archives have a ton of glaze recipes if you want to try
mixing your own.
I have omitted almost everything, like how a second glaze may not always
adhere well to the first. Timing of application, glaze thickness, and
recipe all affect that. You will learn that some glazes interact more than
others--that's glaze chemistry.
Good glazing!
Dave Finkelnburg in Idaho

Marianne Lombardo on sat 2 jun 01


Gary

Alisa of Claus Clausen was kind enough to pass on the most beautiful glaze
layering technique to me. Her thoughtfulness has encouraged me to
experiment with layering, although so far nothing else has turned out nice
yet. I guess I haven't hit the right combinations, and I can only fire
every 2-1/2 to 3 months so it's taking me a while to get there.

I used this glaze technique on a bowl, and it is the nicest bowl I have ever
made. I will pass on to you now the way I used her suggestions, as follows:

Use WoDo White with 2% cobalt oxide and 5% rutile on both the inside and
outside of the bowl. I applied by brush, 3 coats.

Use 20x5 gloss with 12% Superpax on the inside of the bowl and on the
outside top 1-1/2" of the bowl rim. I applied by brush 1 good coat.

The inside came out smooth and shiny mottled blue/white with the most
luscious feel and look. The lower outside was green with blue and lots of
movement, texture, and sparkles in the sunlight.

I fired to cone 6 and soaked at 1220c for 40 minutes and cooled down 100c
per hour to 900c and soaked for one hour. Don't know if this is necessary,
but it is what I did.

Good luck!
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net

I'm relatively new to pottery, having been at it just over a year. I'm
getting along fairly well with throwing, but my glazing techniques leave a
lot to be desired. Can anyone suggest two glazes (commercial or home-mix)
that work well when layered and the application technique. Also, is there a
good printed source that explains and shows color plates of the results.
If anyone reading this is close to Inverness, Florida, I'd love to come
to your studio and observe your processes. Thank you very.

Susan Edwards on sun 3 jun 01


Hi Gary,

I fire pretty exclusively to ^10. If you are interested in cone 10 glazes I
can send you a Chun type glaze that I have used successfully over a half
dozen other glazes, some with dramatic results. All of the combinations are
pretty stable (do not tend to run). Of course, how glazes are applied, how
the kiln is fired, and glaze fit to clay body will all have a bearing on
your results. Like Eleanor said, your kiln is unique. I love glazing and I
am always playing in glazes. I will be happy to snail mail you the receipts
if you are interested. You can send me your address privately. (I also test
new glazes on bowls and tea cups. The round form with a foot just works
great.)

And Maggie, thanks for the book suggestion. I am always looking for books.

Enjoy, with ceramics there is always more to learn.
Susan


>From: Gary Finfrock Subject: Glaze layering Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 08:14:25
>-0400
>
>Hello to everyone on the digest,
>
>I'm relatively new to pottery, having been at it just over a year. I'm
>getting along fairly well with throwing, but my glazing techniques leave a
>lot to be desired. Can anyone suggest two glazes (commercial or home-mix)
>that work well when layered and the application technique. Also, is there a
>good printed source that explains and shows color plates of the results. If
>anyone reading this is close to Inverness, Florida, I'd love to come to
>your studio and observe your processes. Thank you very.
>
>Gary garybear@hitter.net
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Eleanor on sun 3 jun 01


Gary,
I was a beginner like you in the Stone Age (40+ years ago); I don't
know if you are looking to be a professional in clay or, like me, a
hobbyist.

In any case, I have found the following to be useful:

Collect glaze recipes from as many sources as you can, as you are
already being advised on Clayart, and, if you are making pots to be
used for food, find some glazes that are considered food-safe.

Besides the Clayart archives, there are books full of glaze recipes
and some of them have color photos of results.

Go to Barnes&Noble/Borders, order coffee/tea, and browse some of
these books, taking notes. These books are expensive but you don't
have to buy them.
The Archives have suggestions for reading and most suppliers'
catalogs have lists of books for sale; if your public library has
interlibrary loan, you can borrow many of these books. If you find a
book you like, you can buy it or ask for it as a birthday/holiday
gift.
Magazines are also a good source: I read Ceramics monthly in the
library (or borrow past issues) and subscribe to Clay Time and
Pottery Making Illustrated.

As for testing--that is absolutely necessary. Your clay and your kiln
are unique; the only way you can find out if something works is to
test it.
However, since I'm not professional, I don't make test tiles. I make
mugs or bowls (Alisa tests in bowls) and test on those. For me this
has the advantage of giving me throwing and handle making practice
plus some pots which I can use or give away when the test comes out
good. An added advantage is that in a bowl, you can see how your test
looks inside and out--sometimes results are very different.

Layering is full of surprises: glaze A over glaze B can be very
different from glaze B over glaze A. And then there are glazes C, D,
E.... Just be sure the layers aren't too thick near the bottom of
your test piece.
I also recently found that some glazes which didn't look so good by
themselves looked great when layered with others.
You need to mark each test piece (I use some red iron oxide mixed
with a little water and paint a number on the bottom) and keep a
written record of what you put on each piece and in what order.

Somewhere along the line you will probably have to learn glaze
chemistry and maybe invest in some glaze calculating software, but I
think the above may be a good beginning.

Eleanor Kohler
Centerport, NY

the art farm on sun 3 jun 01


gary,
originally a painter, i have been potting about the same time as you. i
like to use pottery as a canvas, and i use glazes which allow me to mix
and layer similar to painting. my favorite is DOC HOLLIDAY designer
glazes. they can be used for low fire underglaze or bisque glaze, and
they come in a colorful palette. they can be used under or over a
clear glaze (it is compatible with most commercial glazes). for my
purposes, it has worked with few disappointments.
here is their website:
http://www.siscor.com/docholliday/html/p-glazes.html
ken (in kentucky)

Maggie Woodhead on sun 3 jun 01


Hello and Kia Ora
There is an excellent book by Greg Daly of Australia, with recipes and
photographs well worth having a look at.

----Best Wishes Maggie----
maggiew@clear.net.nz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Finfrock"
To:
Sent: Sunday, 3 June 2001 12:14
Subject: Glaze layering


Hello to everyone on the digest,

I'm relatively new to pottery, having been at it just over a year. I'm
getting along fairly well with throwing, but my glazing techniques leave a lot
to be desired. Can anyone suggest two glazes (commercial or home-mix) that work
well when layered and the application technique. Also, is there a good printed
source that explains and shows color plates of the results.
If anyone reading this is close to Inverness, Florida, I'd love to come to
your studio and observe your processes. Thank you very.

Gary
garybear@hitter.net

______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.256 / Virus Database: 129 - Release Date: 31/05/01