ILENE MAHLER on fri 1 jun 01
Okay open letter to all those electric kiln owners out there who fire
cone 10 Chrystal Glazes....What do you have ? What do you like about the
kiln and what do you dislike and do you have any suggestion what you
shod of done? Since I am going to be 63 and do not have too much time
left to create this will be my last kiln ( have you seen and heard the
wisdom of the list of us old fogies Diane). I need some help Bye the bye
no direct wiring the largest kiln with a plug.......Ilene in Conn who
will be the crazy lady sitting in the rain in her booth this weekend
trying to make money for a new kiln...Oh if anyone wants to try the
Coleman porcelain I am up to 1400 lbs with people trying 100 to test
Let me know if any New Englanders want to get in on the deal......
Joyce Lee on fri 1 jun 01
ok
----- Original Message -----
From: "ILENE MAHLER"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: New Kiln
> Okay open letter to all those electric kiln owners out there who fire
> cone 10 Chrystal Glazes....What do you have ? What do you like about the
> kiln and what do you dislike and do you have any suggestion what you
> shod of done? Since I am going to be 63 and do not have too much time
> left to create this will be my last kiln ( have you seen and heard the
> wisdom of the list of us old fogies Diane). I need some help Bye the bye
> no direct wiring the largest kiln with a plug.......Ilene in Conn who
> will be the crazy lady sitting in the rain in her booth this weekend
> trying to make money for a new kiln...Oh if anyone wants to try the
> Coleman porcelain I am up to 1400 lbs with people trying 100 to test
> Let me know if any New Englanders want to get in on the deal......
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
ILENE MAHLER on sat 28 jul 01
My new one arrived thurs even did a quick fire to test. Did a bisque
Yesterday went great another today and will do one on Mon. I hope I will
be caught up by then..Cann't try a crystal load as the workshop starts
Wed..Cheryl from indiana will be here Mon.Nite to stay with me and take
the workshop We will let you know how the 6 day John Tilton workshop is
2 people from Calif and one from Brazil comming...Can you tell I am
anxious...Ilene in Conn
C TRIPP on fri 30 nov 01
Hi Roger,
I have an L&L with 2 1/2" (they brought out the 3" option after I purchased
mine) and I go to ^6 regularly and ^10 once in a while and the kiln does ok,
so far. You will need a controller to do the cool down. I use mine because
otherwise the kiln temp drops like a stone and that's not a good thing
unless all your glazes like it.
Best regards,
Carol
On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:57:47 -0600, Ceramic Arts Discussion List wrote:
> I have just bought a new L&L JD230 kiln with 2 1/2" walls. The ones I
bought the kiln from said I shouldn"t have any problem going to cone 10 and
ramping down to cool slowly. I'm thinking I may have made a mistake in
getting the 2 !/2"wall virsus the 3"wall. Does anyone have experience with
this kiln and what is your story? I haven't fired it yet, trying to sell my
Duncan right now.
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
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ROGER CLARK on fri 30 nov 01
I have just bought a new L&L JD230 kiln with 2 1/2" walls. The ones I =
bought the kiln from said I shouldn"t have any problem going to cone 10 =
and ramping down to cool slowly. I'm thinking I may have made a mistake =
in getting the 2 !/2"wall virsus the 3"wall. Does anyone have experience =
with this kiln and what is your story? I haven't fired it yet, trying to =
sell my Duncan right now.
The Sherman's on tue 7 jan 03
Barbara
I got a new Skutt 1027-3 about 2 years ago and love it. It does take some
getting used to because you have much more control than you used to have. I
use the preprogrammed firings for bisque and have developed a 12 hour firing
schedule using the information in the owner's manual. One thing you need to
be aware of is the end firing temperature can be different depending on how
fast you are firing. A cone 6 is not always maturing at the same
temperature. I also soak for 15 minutes at the end and then do a controlled
cool down to 1100^ F. And although the kiln has been very accurate I always
include witness cones where I can see them as well as 2 other places in the
kiln. I set the alarm as well and have never had it go off. I moved the
kiln and had a LED readout problem and found Skutt to be very costumer
service oriented. The downside is it is soooo predictable. I was using a
very old Evenheat- completely manual, uneven firing, little control of the
results so every kiln opening was like Christmas. Some pieces beautiful,
some so-so, but also very unreproducible. Still have it but don't use it
much other than for bisque. Hoped this helps.
Marcey Sherman
Zephyr Pottery
Huntington Station, NY
Half way out Long Island where the snow has stopped but is coooold!
barbara arner on tue 7 jan 03
hi everyone
thanks for helping me with the kiln dilemma. i guess a little experimentation is in order. thank you for the responses.
-barbara
-----Original Message-----
From: The Sherman's
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:26 AM
Subject: New Kiln
>Barbara
>I got a new Skutt 1027-3 about 2 years ago and love it. It does take some
>getting used to because you have much more control than you used to have. I
>use the preprogrammed firings for bisque and have developed a 12 hour firing
>schedule using the information in the owner's manual. One thing you need to
>be aware of is the end firing temperature can be different depending on how
>fast you are firing. A cone 6 is not always maturing at the same
>temperature. I also soak for 15 minutes at the end and then do a controlled
>cool down to 1100^ F. And although the kiln has been very accurate I always
>include witness cones where I can see them as well as 2 other places in the
>kiln. I set the alarm as well and have never had it go off. I moved the
>kiln and had a LED readout problem and found Skutt to be very costumer
>service oriented. The downside is it is soooo predictable. I was using a
>very old Evenheat- completely manual, uneven firing, little control of the
>results so every kiln opening was like Christmas. Some pieces beautiful,
>some so-so, but also very unreproducible. Still have it but don't use it
>much other than for bisque. Hoped this helps.
>
>Marcey Sherman
>Zephyr Pottery
>Huntington Station, NY
>Half way out Long Island where the snow has stopped but is coooold!
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ivor on tue 12 oct 04
After months of site clearing and installation work, I've at last
managed my first firing with the new kiln. The first time I've used
propane for anything other than Raku.
I fired terra cotta to minimise the cost of any losses (in =A3's as well
as my time) The results are good - nice pots good ring. But....
There is clearly a problem with hot spots - as much as 2 cones
between hottest and coolest points. The approach to top
temperature initially was 120dC/hr, but I managed to slow this to
around 50dC/hr before the witness cone went down.
I'm hoping that slowing this some more and giving a soak of 10-20
minutes should do the business. The kiln is small and downdraft
so I'm hoping that the heat can be smoothed out.
The insulation is impressive. Its multi-layer refractories and is
twice as efficient as the lightweight brick in the electric kiln.
Next firing will be cone 6 oxidation, so I don't want to lose pots
after all the work decorating and glazing them. Ultimate aim is
reduction.
Any advice is most welcome!
Ivor
In Macclesfield where the autumn gales are starting to blow
through.
Ivor J Townshend
Macclesfield UK
Louis Katz on wed 13 oct 04
Hi Ivor,
It ha been years since I fired my first propane kiln load. I too had =20
hot spots. I attributed it to a much hotter flame temperature. I do not =20=
know if the flame temperature with Propane/air is hotter than Natural =20=
Gas/air. It was an assumption on my part based on the fact that propane =20=
has more heat per volume and may have been a bad assumption, but the =20
next firing I cut down the primary air and increased the secondary and =20=
eliminated the problem. I have since fried the edges on pots a couple =20=
of other times, (natural gas bisques) and this has just been a case of =20=
trying to get the last several hundred degrees too fast for my kiln =20
design.
Louis
On Oct 12, 2004, at 12:59 PM, Ivor wrote:
> After months of site clearing and installation work, I've at last
> managed my first firing with the new kiln. The first time I've used
> propane for anything other than Raku.
>
> I fired terra cotta to minimise the cost of any losses (in =A3's as =
well
> as my time) The results are good - nice pots good ring. But....
>
> There is clearly a problem with hot spots - as much as 2 cones
> between hottest and coolest points. The approach to top
> temperature initially was 120dC/hr, but I managed to slow this to
> around 50dC/hr before the witness cone went down.
>
> I'm hoping that slowing this some more and giving a soak of 10-20
> minutes should do the business. The kiln is small and downdraft
> so I'm hoping that the heat can be smoothed out.
>
> The insulation is impressive. Its multi-layer refractories and is
> twice as efficient as the lightweight brick in the electric kiln.
>
> Next firing will be cone 6 oxidation, so I don't want to lose pots
> after all the work decorating and glazing them. Ultimate aim is
> reduction.
>
> Any advice is most welcome!
>
> Ivor
> In Macclesfield where the autumn gales are starting to blow
> through.
>
> Ivor J Townshend
> Macclesfield UK
>
> =
_______________________________________________________________________=20=
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =20
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ron Roy on thu 14 oct 04
Dear Ivor,
Oh the joys of building a relationship with a new kiln - I'm doing the same
thing myself - just had a look in and the front part is perfect - even top
to bottom and all reduced well - it took three firings.
Slow firing will help even it out for sure - especially near the end - and
a soak - and a little fire down will also help.
Best advice I ever got was - direct flame to the cool - spots - bag walls,
target bricks - stacking. If you are firing in reduction - use a dark clay
for your cone packs - they will tell you about reduction.
Look for any "tracking) on the bricks inside the firing chamber - they will
help you "see" the flame paths - especially in reduction.
I will take pictures of my kiln as I unload tonight - if you would like me
to send some to you it might help you understand what is needed. Just let
me know.
Main thing is to get it the way you want it as soon as possible and there
are many on this list who have been there and done that but not always in a
short time. Many just live with the differences because they gave up.
RR
>After months of site clearing and installation work, I've at last
>managed my first firing with the new kiln. The first time I've used
>propane for anything other than Raku.
>
>I fired terra cotta to minimise the cost of any losses (in =A3's as well
>as my time) The results are good - nice pots good ring. But....
>
>There is clearly a problem with hot spots - as much as 2 cones
>between hottest and coolest points. The approach to top
>temperature initially was 120dC/hr, but I managed to slow this to
>around 50dC/hr before the witness cone went down.
>
>I'm hoping that slowing this some more and giving a soak of 10-20
>minutes should do the business. The kiln is small and downdraft
>so I'm hoping that the heat can be smoothed out.
>
>The insulation is impressive. Its multi-layer refractories and is
>twice as efficient as the lightweight brick in the electric kiln.
>
>Next firing will be cone 6 oxidation, so I don't want to lose pots
>after all the work decorating and glazing them. Ultimate aim is
>reduction.
>
>Any advice is most welcome!
>
>Ivor
>In Macclesfield where the autumn gales are starting to blow
>through.
>
>Ivor J Townshend
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
=46ax: 613-475-3513=20
Thomas G. Sawyer, M.D.,J.D. on thu 13 may 10
I don=3D92t know that I ever contributed much of value to this site but lik=
e
many others I used to submit quite a few comments. It now probably more tha=
n
a year since I chose to do even that. But I just put together my new L & L
Kiln a DaVinci T2336 36W 26 =3DBD D and 36 high internal dimensions. ITS
BEAUTIFUL. I=3D92ve used to feel reluctant to comment on products when I wa=
s
part owner of Axner=3D92s but now 2+ years after the sale, I would submit =
=3D
that L
& L was always my favorite. I now have 3 of them of various sizes. My only
concern about the new kiln is its height making it difficult to reach the
floor of the kiln while hanging over the side; I=3D92m going to build a lit=
tle
standing step across the front and I think this will help but if anyone has
a specific idea I would appreciate any advice.
=3D20
More and more I=3D92m working with large slabs using glazes, glass and odd
materials to create abstract paintings; I=3D92ve had a great deal of =3D
difficulty
with the slabs slumping or cracking but my last 2 firings, where I tried a
new technique, I think I may have solved the problem.
=3D20
Anyone having really beautiful runny glaze formulas, I have a spot for them=
.
=3D20
Thanks
=3D20
Peeping Tom
Tom Sawyer
Orlando, FL
=3D20
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14990
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
liz gowen on thu 13 may 10
Tom, welcome back you have been missed. For my kiln I made a set of =3D
steps
with cinder blocks that I use to step up on and can leave them in place =3D
all
the time since they are not flamable.Two high in back and one in front. =3D
This
solved my problem after snapping a rib hanging over the side trying to =3D
get
at the bottom of the kiln. Good luck with the new kiln. Liz Gowen
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Thomas G.
Sawyer, M.D.,J.D.
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 3:00 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: New Kiln
I don=3D92t know that I ever contributed much of value to this site but =3D
like
many others I used to submit quite a few comments. It now probably more =3D
than
a year since I chose to do even that. But I just put together my new L & =
=3D
L
Kiln a DaVinci T2336 36W 26 =3DBD D and 36 high internal dimensions. ITS
BEAUTIFUL. I=3D92ve used to feel reluctant to comment on products when I =
=3D
was
part owner of Axner=3D92s but now 2+ years after the sale, I would submit =
=3D
that L
& L was always my favorite. I now have 3 of them of various sizes. My =3D
only
concern about the new kiln is its height making it difficult to reach =3D
the
floor of the kiln while hanging over the side; I=3D92m going to build a =3D
little
standing step across the front and I think this will help but if anyone =3D
has
a specific idea I would appreciate any advice.
=3D20
More and more I=3D92m working with large slabs using glazes, glass and odd
materials to create abstract paintings; I=3D92ve had a great deal of =3D
difficulty
with the slabs slumping or cracking but my last 2 firings, where I tried =
=3D
a
new technique, I think I may have solved the problem.
=3D20
Anyone having really beautiful runny glaze formulas, I have a spot for =3D
them.
=3D20
Thanks
=3D20
Peeping Tom
Tom Sawyer
Orlando, FL
=3D20
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14990
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
Patty on fri 14 may 10
I also broke a rib laying over the side of a kiln, trying to reach the
bottom. This may not be a solution for most of you, but since crystalline
glazes need lots of wide open spaces in the kiln during firing, my bottom
shelf is 4 inches off the bottom. And the tallest pieces go on the bottom
as I can grab their tops. Hey, short people gotta do what we gotta do.
Patty Kaliher
Alice DeLisle on fri 14 may 10
Tom
I also have a L&L and love it. And their tech support is good, too. Mine =
is JD2936, also 36 in tall. I knew from seeing a friend's tall kiln that I=
would have difficulty reaching the bottom. My friend had done lots of dam=
age to the bricks at the top of her kiln from bending over it to reach the =
bottom. I was afraid that if I stood on blocks that I would do a header in=
to the bottom of the kiln! I ordered the option from L&L where the control=
ler is not attached to the side of the kiln but is on a floor stand so the =
rings are not attached to each other. I also didn't attach the lid. To lo=
ad the kiln, I remove the lid and the first ring and set them on the floor =
on Styrofoam that came as packing with the kiln. I do need another pair of=
hands to do this, but can get my husband or a neighbor to help. I know th=
ere is a chance for excess wear by moving the ring and lid, but I decided i=
t is less likely than damaging the top by trying to reach over it to
get to the bottom.
My goal is to someday have a tophat lifter for the first ring and lid like =
I saw posted on clayart recently. I can't recall who posted it.
Alice DeLisle
wanderland@att.net
http://delisle.aftosawebhosting.com
paul gerhold on fri 14 may 10
Tom,
I don't know about your sense of balance but standing on steps to load a
kiln has always made me uneasy. If you have the space build a raised
platform instead of just steps. If you are on concrete consider cutting
down the legs on the stand to the point where you have minimal airspace
under the kiln- say about two inches.
Paul
Eleanora Eden on fri 14 may 10
Hi Tom, Liz, and all,
Wow, a cracked rib. Ouch! I just leave cinder blocks around the kiln so I=
=3D
can step
up or step in between them. I have to kind of rock on my tummy to really=
=3D
reach the
bottom of the kiln and I make sure to do it before, not right after, a meal=
!
BTW, I painted the top edge with ITC to reinforce it a long time ago, when =
I=3D
did the
whole inside. So the top edge doesn't tend to abrade. I would definitely=
=3D
advise that.
The worst was when I did my big kiln fix last year. Balancing on my tummy=
=3D
with a
torch heating the elements to stick them back into their slots.....whoa! O=
f=3D
course the
most damaged one was the very bottom.
Eleanora
>Tom, welcome back you have been missed. For my kiln I made a set of steps
>with cinder blocks that I use to step up on and can leave them in place al=
l
>the time since they are not flamable.Two high in back and one in front. Th=
i=3D
s
>solved my problem after snapping a rib hanging over the side trying to get
>at the bottom of the kiln. Good luck with the new kiln. Liz Gowen
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Thomas G.
>Sawyer, M.D.,J.D.
>Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 3:00 PM
>To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: New Kiln
>
>
>I don=3D92t know that I ever contributed much of value to this site but li=
ke
>many others I used to submit quite a few comments. It now probably more th=
a=3D
n
>a year since I chose to do even that. But I just put together my new L & L
>Kiln a DaVinci T2336 36W 26 =3DBD D and 36 high internal dimensions. ITS
>BEAUTIFUL. I=3D92ve used to feel reluctant to comment on products when I w=
as
>part owner of Axner=3D92s but now 2+ years after the sale, I would submit=
=3D
that L
>& L was always my favorite. I now have 3 of them of various sizes. My only
>concern about the new kiln is its height making it difficult to reach the
>floor of the kiln while hanging over the side; I=3D92m going to build a li=
ttl=3D
e
>standing step across the front and I think this will help but if anyone ha=
s
>a specific idea I would appreciate any advice.
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Arnold Howard on fri 14 may 10
From: "Alice DeLisle"
My friend had done lots of damage to the bricks at the top
of her kiln from bending over it to reach the bottom. I was
afraid that if I stood on blocks that I would do a header
into the bottom of the kiln!
-------------
Alice, that has actually happened. Someone at NCECA told me
she fell into her kiln one time. We laughed.
Trace the top rim of your kiln onto newspaper or cardboard.
Use this template to make a plywood loading support. The
plywood should be about 2 feet long and fit over the top rim
of your kiln's firing chamber.
Lean over the plywood during loading and unloading. This
will transfer the weight over a wide area and reduce brick
damage.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
gayle bair on fri 14 may 10
I cut a piece of 1/4" hardiboard in the shape of the top ring just long =3D
enough to protect the area I lean over and use electrical tape on the =3D
edges.=3D20
Placing it on the top of the brick when I have to load/unload the kiln =3D
protects the brick.
I never thought of the cinderblocks. What a great idea! I've been using =3D
a rubbermaid stool I'd kick out of the way when firing.
My running joke is ....one day when John comes home he might find my =3D
feet sticking out of the kiln.=3D20
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island WA
Tucson AZ
gayle@claybair.com
www.claybair.com
On May 14, 2010, at 11:47 AM, Eleanora Eden wrote:
> Hi Tom, Liz, and all,
>=3D20
> Wow, a cracked rib. Ouch! I just leave cinder blocks around the kiln =
=3D
so I can step
> up or step in between them. I have to kind of rock on my tummy to =3D
really reach the
> bottom of the kiln and I make sure to do it before, not right after, a =
=3D
meal!
>=3D20
> BTW, I painted the top edge with ITC to reinforce it a long time ago, =3D
when I did the
> whole inside. So the top edge doesn't tend to abrade. I would =3D
definitely advise that.
>=3D20
> The worst was when I did my big kiln fix last year. Balancing on my =3D
tummy with a
> torch heating the elements to stick them back into their =3D
slots.....whoa! Of course the
> most damaged one was the very bottom.
>=3D20
> Eleanora
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
>> Tom, welcome back you have been missed. For my kiln I made a set of =3D
steps
>> with cinder blocks that I use to step up on and can leave them in =3D
place all
>> the time since they are not flamable.Two high in back and one in =3D
front. This
>> solved my problem after snapping a rib hanging over the side trying =3D
to get
>> at the bottom of the kiln. Good luck with the new kiln. Liz Gowen
>>=3D20
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Thomas =3D
G.
>> Sawyer, M.D.,J.D.
>> Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 3:00 PM
>> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>> Subject: New Kiln
>>=3D20
>>=3D20
>> I don=3D92t know that I ever contributed much of value to this site but =
=3D
like
>> many others I used to submit quite a few comments. It now probably =3D
more than
>> a year since I chose to do even that. But I just put together my new =3D
L & L
>> Kiln a DaVinci T2336 36W 26 =3DBD D and 36 high internal dimensions. =
=3D
ITS
>> BEAUTIFUL. I=3D92ve used to feel reluctant to comment on products when =
=3D
I was
>> part owner of Axner=3D92s but now 2+ years after the sale, I would =3D
submit that L
>> & L was always my favorite. I now have 3 of them of various sizes. My =
=3D
only
>> concern about the new kiln is its height making it difficult to reach =
=3D
the
>> floor of the kiln while hanging over the side; I=3D92m going to build a =
=3D
little
>> standing step across the front and I think this will help but if =3D
anyone has
>> a specific idea I would appreciate any advice.
>=3D20
> --
> Bellows Falls Vermont
> www.eleanoraeden.com
Bonnie Staffel on fri 14 may 10
Hi Tom,
I also have a DaVinci, but not quite as deep as yours. Still I am only 5
feet tall so reaching the bottom shelf is also difficult. I had a =3D
movable
step made as wide as the kiln which I use to stand on to load the kiln.
However, my dear daughter who is a lot taller, has learned to load my =3D
kiln
and does this task for me now. The step is comfortably wide enough for =3D
my
full length foot size and being as wide as the kiln, makes it easy to =3D
move
from side to side without worrying about stepping off accidentally. I =3D
have
had mine for a number of years with a controller. Love it especially the
square configuration which I hve always felt would hold more pots than =3D
round
kilns. Crossing my fingers, but have had to change the elements only =3D
once
since that time. I dipped the elements into that space age stuff that =3D
Mel
recommended as well as coated the walls of the kiln with it as well. I =3D
fire
to Cone 9 as well as bisque to cone 010 to 06 depending upon whether I =3D
plan
to smoke or pit fire the final piece or high fire glaze it.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
Irene A. Wytzka Lawson on fri 9 dec 11
Looking for advice...have the money for a new kiln=3D2C saved my money all =
ye=3D
ar from pot sales and pottery store wages. I do electric low fire=3D2C hig=
hl=3D
y decorated functional ware=3D2C right now I have a Skutt 818=3D2C getting =
to b=3D
e too small. My 12-13 inch platters barely fit=3D2C ready to trade up. I =
or=3D
iginally thought I wanted a Skutt 1227=3D2C then saw the inside of one and =
ha=3D
d an intimidating moment of terror...how would I fill all that space! Look=
=3D
ed at a Skutt 1027 and it felt a little better. Any thoughts or ideas=3D2C=
c=3D
an afford either. Also curious as to opinions=3D2C first hand experience b=
et=3D
ween a Skutt or L&L. Any input would be greatly appreciated! I am doing lo=
=3D
w fire at ^04=3D2C would like to have the option of moving up to ^6=3D2C do=
n't =3D
see myself ever going to ^10. Thanks for your insight=3D2C help and advice=
! =3D
Irene LawsonCuster=3D2C WALooking forward to NCECA SEATTLE!!! =
=3D
DJ Brewer on sat 10 dec 11
I have a Skutt 1027 and it seems to fill up so quickly. Still, I don't
know what the cost of firing the 1227 is. My friend has a Skutt 1227
and really likes it. I'm not a professional potter so the 1027 is fine
for my needs. I'm just a hobbyist or enthusiast or addicted clayist --
yep. I think addicted clayist pretty much covers it.
DJ
On 12/10/2011 9:29 PM, Michael Wendt wrote:
> I found that the 12 sided kilns hold way more work for very
> little more cost. Additionally, the huge volume increase
> comes
> with only a minor increase in surface are so a cone 6 firing
> won't be all that more much cost than the 10 sider.
> Regards,
> Michael Wendt
>
> On Dec 10, 2011, at 12:32 AM, Irene A. Wytzka Lawson wrote:
>> ...right now I have a Skutt 818, getting to be too small.
>> My 12-13 inch platters barely fit, ready to trade up. I
>> originally thought I wanted a Skutt 1227, then saw the
>> inside of one and had an intimidating moment of
>> terror...how would I fill all that space! Looked at a
>> Skutt 1027 and it felt a little better...
>
Larry Kruzan on sat 10 dec 11
Hi Irene,
For my electric work, I "got by" with a pair of 1027's for several years,
they are a very good size and super reliable. However, I now own a 1227PK3 =
-
WOW, what a kiln! The zone control fixed the half cone cooler bottom that I
had with the 1027's and the bigger size has allowed me to grow into larger
plates and platters.
The first 1027 I bought served me for close to 10 years with no problems an=
d
is still in use by the apprentice I sold it to. The second 1027 joined it
when I moved to a full time schedule and worked hard for 5 years before
being purchased by another potter. These two are still in use today.
Also, carefully consider whether you can get by with the standard 1227 or
should you pop for the "PK" model. In my case I work at cone 6-8 for my
electric work so I could get by with the standard model, however I did want
3" sides (gives me slower cooling) and the zone control is great. It also
comes with upgraded relays and elements for longer life. It is more
expensive (no free lunch principle), but the life should be much greater.
Perhaps someone who has been using one longer than I have can address the
"life" question as I've only had mine for a 1 1/2 year, But I love mine so
far.
For what it's worth, I'd keep the 818 whichever way you go. I also have one
and use it a lot for time when a customer wants a special piece or two and
I'm outside of my normal production schedule.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Irene A. Wytzk=
a
Lawson
Looking for advice...have the money for a new kiln, saved my money all year
from pot sales and pottery store wages.
Steve Slatin on sat 10 dec 11
Irene -- an 818 is small, it's true.=3DA0 (I have a virtual-antique 181, wh=
ic=3D
h is the same size, and it'll fill up quite quickly).=3DA0 And a =3D0ASkutt=
122=3D
7 is huge, by comparison, but it (or my actual-antique Cress FTE28MST, also=
=3D
a 10 cu ft) looks overwhelming=3D0Aby comparison, but it will fill us.=3D0=
A=3DA0=3D
=3D0AThere is an alternative in the decagon-size kilns, which run 6-7 cu ft=
.=3D
=3DA0 Skutt makes a nice one, I have an L&L Easy-fire=3D0Ain that size, and=
it'=3D
s a honey.=3DA0 I find that you can both fill up that size and fire large t=
hi=3D
ngs.=3DA0 It's a good combo, but if=3D0Ayou want to fire sets of plates or =
some=3D
thing, the dodecagon is probably the better option -- you can get 4 decent =
=3D
size=3D0Aplates onto a single shelf.=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0ASteve Slatin -- =3D0A=
=3D0A=3D0AN48.08=3D
86450=3D0AW123.1420482=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0A=
=3D0ALooking =3D
for advice...have the money for a new kiln, saved my money all year from po=
=3D
t sales and pottery store wages.=3DA0 I do electric low fire, highly decora=
te=3D
d functional ware, right now I have a Skutt 818, getting to be too small.=
=3D
=3DA0 My 12-13 inch platters barely fit, ready to trade up.=3DA0 I original=
ly t=3D
hought I wanted a Skutt 1227, then saw the inside of one and had an intimid=
=3D
ating moment of terror...how would I fill all that space!=3DA0 Looked at a =
Sk=3D
utt 1027 and it felt a little better.=3DA0 Any thoughts or ideas, can affor=
d =3D
either.=3DA0 Also curious as to opinions, first hand experience between a S=
ku=3D
tt or L&L.=3DA0 Any input would be greatly appreciated! I am doing low fire=
a=3D
t ^04, would like to have the option of moving up to ^6, don't see myself e=
=3D
ver going to ^10.=3DA0 Thanks for your insight, help and advice! Irene Laws=
on=3D
Custer, WALooking forward to NCECA SEATTLE!!!=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=
=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3D
=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=
=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3D
=3DA0=3DA0
Snail Scott on sat 10 dec 11
On Dec 10, 2011, at 12:32 AM, Irene A. Wytzka Lawson wrote:
> ...right now I have a Skutt 818, getting to be too small. My 12-13 =3D
inch platters barely fit, ready to trade up. I originally thought I =3D
wanted a Skutt 1227, then saw the inside of one and had an intimidating =3D
moment of terror...how would I fill all that space! Looked at a Skutt =3D
1027 and it felt a little better...
Pro's for the 1027:=3D20
It's one of the most common kilns out there so easy to get=3D20
parts without waiting, and to find old ones to cannibalize.=3D20
The 10-sider is hands-down the most common size, so=3D20
again, easy to get parts. It will allow quicker turn-around=3D20
if you don't have a large production, without wasting space.
Pro's for the 1227:=3D20
It's startling how much more flexible the space is with just=3D20
that small increase in size. Measure how many of your=3D20
standard plates will fit in the 10-sider, and then in the 12-
sider. Really try - take them and set them on the shelves=3D20
for real, down at the dealer, and visualize how you will load.=3D20
The small increase in firing volume and cost may mean a=3D20
big increase in space efficiency. Or not. Don't guess, try!=3D20
L&L is also a very good kiln. Not as easy to find parts for,=3D20
as they have a smaller dealer network, so they may need=3D20
to be ordered. Love the element holders, though...really=3D20
old L&L kilns look practically brand-new, because the=3D20
channels are protected. If you have a local dealer, give=3D20
them a serious look.=3D20
I really like to support local dealers, even though the=3D20
prices can be better elsewhere. Your local dealer will=3D20
always be there for you you with advice and assistance,=3D20
If you support them. (and this is me saying this - the=3D20
biggest cheapskate on the list.) So, whichever you get,=3D20
get it locally if you can.
-Snail
=3D20=3D
William & Susan Schran User on sat 10 dec 11
On 12/10/11 1:32 AM, "Irene A. Wytzka Lawson" wrote=
:
> Also curious as to opinions, first hand experience between a Skutt or L&L=
.
> Any input would be greatly appreciated! I am doing low fire at ^04, would=
like
> to have the option of moving up to ^6, don't see myself ever going to ^10=
.
Both are fine kilns and will serve you well.
Also don't forget about Paragon - you've got a friend here on Clayart,
Arnold Howard, ready to answer all questions.
I've been using L&L's for years and have a close relationship with the
president of the company, so I'm a bit biased.
I have worked on nearly all brands of kilns.
Go with upgraded stuff, be sure to get heavy duty elements, like 14ga. And
the kiln will last a very long time.
I have APM elements in my kiln, but I fire crystalline firing schedules and
can get more life out of a set of these type elements - you just need the H=
D
A1 elements.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Michael Wendt on sat 10 dec 11
I found that the 12 sided kilns hold way more work for very
little more cost. Additionally, the huge volume increase
comes
with only a minor increase in surface are so a cone 6 firing
won't be all that more much cost than the 10 sider.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
On Dec 10, 2011, at 12:32 AM, Irene A. Wytzka Lawson wrote:
> ...right now I have a Skutt 818, getting to be too small.
> My 12-13 inch platters barely fit, ready to trade up. I
> originally thought I wanted a Skutt 1227, then saw the
> inside of one and had an intimidating moment of
> terror...how would I fill all that space! Looked at a
> Skutt 1027 and it felt a little better...
Neal on sun 11 dec 11
I bought my L&L Easy-Fire e28S-3 several years ago and have
been happy with it. This kiln is shorter and wider than the e23T
and Skutt 1027, but the volume is about the same. So far, I have
not made anything too tall to fit (nor any platters that would not
have fit into the 1027).
Loading it is easier than with a tall kiln, especially if you are
short.
Neal O'B.
Raleigh, NC
Bonnie Staffel on sun 11 dec 11
I have always been an advocate of square kilns. When I opened my studio =3D
in
northern Michigan, there was a man in Toledo that built square kilns. I =3D
used
them for a number of years. I had three at the time, which filled our
production needs. Then when I went to NC I purchased a round Skutt. =3D
Worked
beautifully however felt constrained in the loading as round kilns do =3D
not
allow IMO good loading prospects for sets of dishes. When I returned =3D
home I
purchased an L&L DaVinci which is one huge square kiln. I still use it =3D
but
it takes more pots and a longer time to fill it as I am not working as =3D
much
any more. I do love the square form as I can put a large platter in the
center or a large diameter pot, with plenty of room in the corners to =3D
fill
with other right sized pots.=3D20
Regards, Bonnie
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
Lee on sun 11 dec 11
I may have an AIM electric 2327, on sale. What I can find about costs,
while electric kilns of the same size as a gas kiln is more efficient, the
lower cost of natural gas makes the two cost about the same per firing.
Maybe it makes sense to bisque in my Olympic Torchbearer 2827G Also,
this kiln has 3" brick, which may make it relatively more efficient.
My estimates so far on service upgrade and 220v to the studio/kiln
shed is around $2,000.00 If I don't have to have 220v, I can save some
cash.
I had to have a couple plumbers look at what I wanted before I
found one who could do it. My meter was upgraded from .25psi to 2psi, so
I only had to run 1/2" flexible copper the 30' in the house and 28'
outside. A regulator steps the pressure down for my house and also there
is a regulator just before the kiln, to bring it down to below 12
water column inches of pressure.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he land
of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent within
itself." -- John O'Donohue
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