Kenneth D. Westfall on tue 5 jun 01
I would suggest that you start from the skews with straights and then your
arches dividing the aches and straights. Working from both side to the
center. From that point you just need to eye ball it and swap the arches
and straight till you get what appears to the best continuous and even
curve. It always best not to have two straights together.
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org
http://www.pinehillpottery.com
Stephen Grimmer on tue 5 jun 01
--
Stephen Grimmer
Southern Illinois University at Carbondale
Dave,
I don't have my kiln book here, but I'd guess the layout to be something
like this:
S AAA S AAA S AAA AAA S AAA S AAA S
Steve
> From: David Jenkins
> Subject: sprung arch question
>
SNIP
> Now my question. According to my A.P. Green pocket catalog I need 18
> arch bricks and 6 straights for each row of the arch. How do you know where
> to intersperse the straights? I am guessing that what I did 21 years ago
> was to start to lay up the arch and then just add a straight where it looks
> like one is needed. Is there a better system than this or is there a
> formula to follow?
> Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
> David Jenkins
vince pitelka on tue 5 jun 01
> Now my question. According to my A.P. Green pocket catalog I need 18
> arch bricks and 6 straights for each row of the arch. How do you know
where
> to intersperse the straights? I am guessing that what I did 21 years ago
> was to start to lay up the arch and then just add a straight where it
looks
> like one is needed. Is there a better system than this or is there a
> formula to follow?
David -
You want to intersperse the straights as evenly as possible through the
arch. Also, in each adjacent row of bricks front to back, make sure that
the seams do not allign with those in the previous row. That means that
every other row will start and end with a half brick. This is essential in
order to end up with a monolithic locked arch. Once your steel frame is
done and your skew bricks are in place on top of the walls (with backup
bricks to take up the space between the skew bricks and the horizontal
member on the steel frame), and your arch form is in place, you can begin
laying your bricks in front to back rows on either side as indicated
following. Lay two rows of arch bricks on either side, then one row of
straight bricks, then three rows of arch bricks, then a row of straight
bricks, then three rows of arch bricks, then a row of straight bricks, and
then a row of arch bricks. Thats nine arch bricks and three straight bricks
on each side. When you come to the last two rows of bricks at the top, lay
one row in place, and then you will most likely have to trim the last row
bricks as "key bricks" to fill the remaining space. You should also start
and finish the row of key bricks with a quarter brick to keep the seams from
alligning.
After you trim the last row of bricks, rinse them with water or blow them
off with compressed air to remove as much as possible of the brick dust so
that it does not sift down on the wares.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
vince pitelka on tue 5 jun 01
> Any reputable refractory supplier would put together an arch based
entirely
> on arch bricks if you give them both the span and the rise. I have done
this
> many times and they always figure it out. I would not use straights in any
> arch other than a catenary.
Phil -
It sounds like your brick suppliers are much more accommodating than ours.
Over here you cannot get an arch composed entirely of arch bricks unless you
pay the exorbitant prices to have the supplier cut the bricks to custom
size, or unless you just happen to pick a configuration that works with some
combination of #1, #2, and/or #3 arch bricks, because those are the only
ones available. Using these available bricks, once you get beyond very
small arches you always need some combination of arch bricks and straights.
If you lay a tight monolithic arch with no allignment of seams, having the
straight bricks interspersed throughout doesn't seem to cause any problems.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://www.craftcenter.tntech.edu/
David Jenkins on tue 5 jun 01
I am rebuilding a 21 year old kiln into new 60 cubic foot car kiln.
The cart and walls are built and today I am building the arch form while I
am waiting for the welder.
The arch is 2600 arch brick which cost $1.87 each and I am using 125 for a
cost of $233. which is $20. more than it would have cost to use just
straights. Even if it were a lot more than that it just wouldn't make sense
to use straights. The extra time it would take to fill all the cracks and
line with fiber would more than eat up any savings. The time would be much
better spent making 3 mugs and selling them to get the extra money for arch
bricks.
Now my question. According to my A.P. Green pocket catalog I need 18
arch bricks and 6 straights for each row of the arch. How do you know where
to intersperse the straights? I am guessing that what I did 21 years ago
was to start to lay up the arch and then just add a straight where it looks
like one is needed. Is there a better system than this or is there a
formula to follow?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
David Jenkins
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philrogers pottery on tue 5 jun 01
David,
Any reputable refractory supplier would put together an arch based entirely
on arch bricks if you give them both the span and the rise. I have done this
many times and they always figure it out. I would not use straights in any
arch other than a catenary.
Best wishes,
Phil.
Phil and Lynne Rogers,
Lower Cefn Faes,
RHAYADER.
Powys. LD6 5LT.
Tel/fax. (44) 01597 810875.
philrogers@ntlworld.com
www.philrogerspottery.com
> I am rebuilding a 21 year old kiln into new 60 cubic foot car kiln.
> The cart and walls are built and today I am building the arch form while I
According to my A.P. Green pocket catalog I need 18 arch bricks and 6
straights for each row of the arch. How do you know where
> to intersperse the straights? I am guessing that what I did 21 years ago
> was to start to lay up the arch and then just add a straight where it
looks
> like one is needed. Is there a better system than this or is there a
> formula to follow?
> Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
> David Jenkins
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
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